I haven't seen a really good one of these out there, so whipped this up while I was changing the oil on my VR6 last weekend.

CHANGING THE OIL AND OIL FILTER ON A MKIV 12V VR6

The following procedure will outline the steps to change the oil and oil filter on a MKIV VR6, 12V. It is important to remember that the procedures are different whether you have a 12V or a 24V. For changing your oil on a 24V, refer to http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=650410. Much respect to jbrams for doing the original work on this.

There are many avenues of thought on replacing your oil. Some opt with the 3000 mile religious routine, while others run their synthetic for upwards of 15000 miles. I fall somewhere in-between; I change mine every 5000 miles. This DIY is not intended to tell you when to change your oil, but how.

I replace my fuel filter every other oil change as well, so see http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1276409 for that procedure (respect to alchu for his excellent DIY).

The procedure was based on a '00 MKIV Jetta GLX 12v VR6. The procedure should be valid for '99.5 - '02 12v VR6.

Please be careful when performing the below steps. I always label all my loose parts or place the small ones in plastic bags and label them so I know where they go.

It took me approximately 1 hour to complete the oil change (including time to clean my K&N and take pictures). Depending on how good you are with tools, it may take you more or less time.

First, for the parts list. I recommend a VW OEM oil filter, but your local Autozone or Advance Auto Parts will have a filter that works.

Parts
1) Oil Filter (includes large rubber O-ring) - VW# 021-115-562A - $10.40
2) 6 Quarts of your favorite motor oil: see http://www.vw.com/SP/pdf/oilchart.pdf for more information.
3) Oil collection facility (waste oil collector)

Now, the tools.

Tools
1) One jack
2) Two jackstands
3) A Torx 25 screwdriver (Torx 20 will work)
4) 6mm (optional)
5) 36mm socket (optional) or a strap wrench / channel locks
6) 19mm socket
7) Socket wrench
8) Small blade screwdriver
9) Torque wrench

Please be careful. Do this procedure at your own risk, I can't be held responsible if I have made a mistake in the steps.


Examining your parts

i. Before you begin, first examine your parts to make sure you have all the parts. You should have everything shown below. Starting from the upper right and going clockwise you see the oil filter, the O-ring, 1 quart of oil (you need 6), and your waste oil collector.

ii. Drive your car to the location where you will be performing the maintenance. Apply the parking brake and put the transmission in neutral. Make sure you have plenty of light in the area you will be working.

Draining the old oil

1. If the car is not already warm, start the engine and run the car until it is warm.

2. Once it is warm, shut off the engine and jack up the front end of the car.

3. Remove the splash guard from under the vehicle with a Torx 25 screwdriver. There are four bolts, two on each side.

4. Using the 19mm socket, loosen but do not remove the oil pan drain plug. The drain plug is located towards the rear of the oil pan.

5. Place your waste oil collector underneath the drain plug. Move it approximately 6" towards the back of the vehicle to accommodate the oil as it flows out of the oil pan.

6. While pressing in on the drain plug, slowly unscrew the plug from the pan. Note: The plug may be extremely hot, so take the appropriate precautions. I use a rag to remove the drain plug.

7. Once the drain plug is all the way unscrewed, quickly remove the drain plug. A steady stream of oil will flow out of the oil pan and into your waste oil collector (assuming you've positioned it correctly).

8. While you are waiting, inspect your drain plug for damage. VW recommends replacing the drain plug every oil change, but this is unnecessary. However, a damaged drain plug may need to replaced, as in the picture below.

9. Once most of the oil has been drained, reinstall the drain plug. Tighten it to 30 Nm.

10. Now for the messy part. Place your waste oil collector underneath the oil filter housing. Some people choose to remove the oil filter housing plug and drain the oil filter housing prior to removal.

Personally, I think this is a waste of time. But should you choose this method, remove the oil filter housing plug with a 6mm hex wrench and drain the housing.

Instead, I prefer to remove the oil filter housing as one unit. To do so, loosen but do not remove the oil filter housing with a 36mm socket. You can also use a strap wrench or a channel lock pliers.

11. As you loosen the oil filter housing, you will begin to see oil leak from the threads of the housing. This is normal since you have not previously drained the housing by removing the oil filter housing plug.

12. Once the oil filter housing has drained, fully remove it and pour out the excess oil into your drain pan.

13. Next, remove the oil filter from the oil filter housing. You may need to wiggle it a bit to get it out, but be careful not to break the plastic guide piece.

14. Once you have removed the oil filter, take a look inside the housing for any foreign material. An excess of anything can indicate a problem in your lubrication system.



15. Using a small flathead screwdriver, remove the old O-ring.

16. I usually take this chance to clean the oil filter housing using a lint free cloth. Wipe off the threads, the O-ring seats, and the bottom of the housing.

Installing the new filter and adding oil

17. Install the new oil filter by placing the large hole in the bottom of the oil filter over the plastic guide and pushing the oil filter into the oil filter housing. When it seats properly, you will hear a satisfying "click" and the filter will be held firmly in the housing.

18. Next, install the new O-ring. Dip it into some new motor oil and coat the entire O-ring with oil using your fingers. Then slide it around the oil filter, past the oil filter housing threads, and into the O-ring seat.

19. Set the oil filter housing on top of the waste oil collector, and fill the oil filter housing with new motor oil. To do this, pour the oil into the small hole at the top of the oil filter. It will probably take 1/4 to 1/2 a quart of oil.

20. Reinstall the filter housing, taking care not to drip any oil in your eyes while you are screwing it in. If you have a 36mm socket, torque the oil filter housing to 30 Nm. If you do not, just make it reasonably tight, you do not want the oil filter housing coming loose.

21. Check to make sure your drain plug is installed and torqued properly.

22. Pop the hood, and unscrew the oil fill cap.

23. Fill the engine with just under 6 quarts of your favorite motor oil. The engine spec is normally 5.8 quarts, but it will handle 6 with no problem if you happen to overfill.

24. Reinstall the oil fill cap.

25. Close the hood.

26. Reinstall the splash shield with the 4 Torx-25 screws.

27. Lower the vehicle.

28. After starting the car, drive it around the block, let it warm up, then check for leaks.

That's it! Email me with questions if you have any, I'd be happy to answer them!


Modified by FaelinGL at 7:14 PM 10-2-2005


Modified by FaelinGL at 7:30 PM 12-9-2005