Username or Email Address
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up

    VWVortex


    Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
    Results 26 to 50 of 93

    Thread: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change

    1. Member Soren's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 31st, 2000
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      3,038
      Vehicles
      98 GTI VR6
      12-09-2005 09:53 PM #26
      Wow, fuel filter every 2 oil changes? Seems a bit excessive. I change it every 24k and feel like that's overkill... do you have ****ty gas in your area or something?
      Only other things I would do differently is open the filler cap before draining anything because it flows faster and use the drain on the filter housing. 2-3 extra mins for a clean job even if I fumble and drop the housing is worth it to me..
      Nice DIY though. I can't believe people pay other people to do their oil changes. Thats just silly. And lazy.

    2. 07-16-2007 12:35 AM #27
      do you burn with 5w-30?

    3. Member
      Join Date
      Nov 27th, 2004
      Location
      Charlotte, NC
      Posts
      7,142
      Vehicles
      2000 VW Jetta VRT, 2000 Audi TT Quattro
      07-16-2007 12:49 AM #28
      I have since switched to using Mobil 1 - 0w40, but regardless, I never burned a drop of oil with this 12v engine.
      Mike
      Chapter 11 Dubs: Member #001
      http://www.chapter11dubs.com
      -----------------------

    4. 07-21-2007 02:40 PM #29
      does using a thicker blend help with that lifter tick?

    5. Member
      Join Date
      Nov 27th, 2004
      Location
      Charlotte, NC
      Posts
      7,142
      Vehicles
      2000 VW Jetta VRT, 2000 Audi TT Quattro
      07-21-2007 03:06 PM #30
      It might help a little...
      Mike
      Chapter 11 Dubs: Member #001
      http://www.chapter11dubs.com
      -----------------------

    6. 07-21-2007 07:17 PM #31
      nice write up [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    7. Member wabbitGTl's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 1st, 2007
      Location
      Indy
      Posts
      1,494
      Vehicles
      Six wheel drive twin turbo V10
      07-22-2007 11:35 PM #32
      i did mine awhile ago in my mk3 for the first time so i was in the dark a bit. one thing i noticed different was that my owner's manual dictated 7.4 quarts. what's the deal?
      Quote Originally Posted by chucchinchilla View Post
      People spec their Porsche cars like they select bottles of wine when going on a date. Few people want to be the guy buying the cheapest bottle on the menu. The rest, like myself, realize they'll be just as happy (and just as laid) buying the cheapest. Garcon, one base Carrera for me please.

    8. Banned
      Join Date
      Nov 20th, 2003
      Posts
      11,071
      Vehicles
      e36 m3, 95 z28
      07-23-2007 11:20 AM #33
      i see you did the leather glove "swiss cheese" mod. props

    9. Member VR6ix's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 27th, 2003
      Location
      Woodsticks, Onterrible, Eh.
      Posts
      3,189
      Vehicles
      My other VW is a WVW-W TDI, and the other one is a Vento
      07-23-2007 04:36 PM #34
      Avoid the channel locks at all costs. You WILL end-up marring, scarring and chewing the soft black plastic.


      Instead, try using a pipe wrench (okay, not that big) if you're stuck with hand-tools and an over-tightened cartridge case..


      What's the difference? you say.
      Channel locks will never give you a perfectly parallel surface between the two jaws when you clamp onto the 36mm plastic nut. As a result it is very easy to have the channel-lock jaws slip off the plastic, either gouging or scraping and eventually rounding-off the plastic nut shape.
      A pipe wrench still uses aggressive teeth on the jaws, but, most importantly, they are infinitely adjustable and the mechanism that allows one jaw to pivot also allows you to get both jaws parallel on the plastic nut surfaces. Much less chance of slipping (still possible tho), much better surface grip to apply torque, your plastic cap will last longer. You'll also find out quickly that the pivoting jaw means the pipe-wrench will only work in one direction.

      And while the manual may say "7.4 quarts" or whatever, that is the total capacity of the oil system, which includes the factory oil cooler. When you drain the pan and the filter, you don't get all the old oil out completely. I can usually get 5.5L ~ 5.75L in during a change, which is one large 5L jug and part of a single 1L, which later goes in the trunk "just in case".

      Modified by VR6ix sippin' sailor jerry


      Modified by VR6ix at 6:37 PM 7-30-2008
      · ·we're only gonna die for our own arrogance that's why we might as well take our time...
      · · /
      · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · On a long enough timeline, the survival rate for everyone drops to Ø

    10. Member
      Join Date
      Nov 27th, 2004
      Location
      Charlotte, NC
      Posts
      7,142
      Vehicles
      2000 VW Jetta VRT, 2000 Audi TT Quattro
      07-23-2007 07:17 PM #35
      Quote, originally posted by VR6ix »
      Avoid the channel locks at all costs. You WILL end-up marring, scarring and chewing the soft black plastic.

      I agree with you 100%. I actually use a 6 sided 36mm socket to remove the filter housing. The intent of this procedure was written to allow anyone with "normal" tools to do their own oil change. Everyone should have a pair of channel locks in their toolbox.
      Mike
      Chapter 11 Dubs: Member #001
      http://www.chapter11dubs.com
      -----------------------

    11. 07-28-2007 04:28 PM #36
      Changing the oil on a VR is fun.. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Buying the 36mm socket is a must.. After you change the oil the first time, all other times will be a breeze.


      Modified by McKLaSiK at 1:30 PM 7-28-2007

    12. Member EuroTechVW's Avatar
      Join Date
      Aug 19th, 2006
      Location
      L.I.N.Y.
      Posts
      2,680
      Vehicles
      86 Scirocco, 91 JETTA GLI, 92 JETTA GL, 91 JETTA GL
      08-03-2007 08:58 AM #37
      Hi!
      This write up is GREAT! I have one question. What weight oil do you guys suggest for summer driving? I see that in the picture you're using 5w-30. My friend uses that weight on his 1.8t. Any input would be greatly appreciated cause my VR6 is due for it's 1st oil change since I bought it. Thanks in advance. TGIF!!!!!!!! Have a great weekend! [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    13. 08-03-2007 10:27 AM #38
      Quote, originally posted by VgRt6 »
      FYI, I'd recommend removing the drain plug in the filter housing to drain the housing before removing the cap. It makes the job significantly less messy. If you do this, barely a drop will spill when you remove the filter cap.
      Gary

      I recommend this as well. I installed a quick drain plug in the oil pan. So all you have to do is unscrew the cap, plug up the quick drain hose and it starts draining out nice and clean though the tube with no mess. After it drains, then I go to the drain plug on the filter housing and let that drain before removing the entire housing. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    14. Member
      Join Date
      Nov 27th, 2004
      Location
      Charlotte, NC
      Posts
      7,142
      Vehicles
      2000 VW Jetta VRT, 2000 Audi TT Quattro
      08-03-2007 01:39 PM #39
      Quote, originally posted by EuroTechVW »
      Hi!
      This write up is GREAT! I have one question. What weight oil do you guys suggest for summer driving? I see that in the picture you're using 5w-30. My friend uses that weight on his 1.8t. Any input would be greatly appreciated cause my VR6 is due for it's 1st oil change since I bought it. Thanks in advance. TGIF!!!!!!!! Have a great weekend! [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      You can use that, or go with Mobil 1's 0w40.
      Mike
      Chapter 11 Dubs: Member #001
      http://www.chapter11dubs.com
      -----------------------

    15. Junior Member
      Join Date
      Feb 22nd, 2003
      Location
      YYC
      Posts
      46
      Vehicles
      2011 Volvo C30
      08-17-2007 08:36 AM #40
      Great Writeup! This was my first VR6 engine I did an oil change on, and the filter I was given from Canadian Tire was no where to be found on the car.
      Boggled for a good 20 minutes before I decided to try using my allen key in the housing and spotting oil coming out!
      Wish I read this first as I did do a good job completley scarring my housing. First vice grips, then channel locks, even the filter wrench haha, got out that socket, and all was made easy
      Time to go buy a new housing Have to learn somehow

    16. Member DUB0RA's Avatar
      Join Date
      Aug 10th, 2007
      Location
      NoVa
      Posts
      1,408
      Vehicles
      MKIV VR6, MKIII 2.Slow
      09-01-2007 01:47 PM #41
      i just did my first oil change. i think it could have gone a little bit smoother considering that everything could go wrong did go wrong. my drain plug was so tight i had to go next door from my job and ask them to loosen it for me. after that my filter housing didnt want to unscrew so i had to try three different tools. in the end i used locking pliers which damaged the housing badly. great write up though it just didnt go as smooth for me. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    17. Banned NorthernGTI's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 26th, 2005
      Location
      Toronto
      Posts
      6,234
      Vehicles
      mk4 1.8TEEE
      09-01-2007 11:04 PM #42
      Quote, originally posted by DUB0RA »
      i just did my first oil change. i think it could have gone a little bit smoother considering that everything could go wrong did go wrong. my drain plug was so tight i had to go next door from my job and ask them to loosen it for me. after that my filter housing didnt want to unscrew so i had to try three different tools. in the end i used locking pliers which damaged the housing badly. great write up though it just didnt go as smooth for me. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      I seriously hope for your sake your oil pan isnt leaking because VW oil pans are made out of aluminum and have a tendency to leak when over tightened. When putting the drain plug back in you should tighten first with your fingers until it cant go any further and then you should only do 1/4 - 1/2 turn with a 19mm wrench.

      Also I just wanted to add that you should ALWAYS!!! take off the oil cap first that way you dont drain your oil and cant refill it after.


      Modified by NorthernGTI at 8:05 PM 9-1-2007

    18. Member DUB0RA's Avatar
      Join Date
      Aug 10th, 2007
      Location
      NoVa
      Posts
      1,408
      Vehicles
      MKIV VR6, MKIII 2.Slow
      09-01-2007 11:53 PM #43
      YEA I HAND TIGHTENED THE OIL DRAIN PLUG FIRST THEN DID IT WITH A WRENCH. I ALSO DIDNT TIGHTEN THE FILTER HOUSING THE WHOLE COMPLETE WAY. WOULD THIS BE A PROBLEM OR NOT???? TWO MORE QUESTION DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW MUCH A FILTER HOUSING WOULD COST AND CAN ANYONE SUGGEST THE EASIEST WAY OF REMOVING ONE WITH A RELIABLE TOO?L

    19. Junior Member zkat's Avatar
      Join Date
      Dec 17th, 2006
      Location
      Watkins Glen, NY
      Posts
      33
      Vehicles
      2001 Passat 1.8T, 1996 Miata, Tony Kart Extreme
      09-02-2007 11:25 PM #44
      Jeez Louise... I just skimmed two pages of posts...on how to change my oil???

      Ok, why in this whole thoughtful and illuminating thread, has no one asked the obvious? Why on earth does my 1993 Volkswagen have on oil filter last seen on a 1962 Chevy Impala??? The last (and first) time I changed a canister-style oil filter was on a friend's '62 Impala SS. What gives, VW???

    20. 09-06-2007 04:42 PM #45
      Thanks for the DIY! My Jetta is smooth now!

    21. 04-23-2008 08:23 AM #46
      This might seem like dumb question, but how do you jack the car up safely? I looked last night for some jack plates but found nothing. I'm not a big fan of side jacking as it tends to crush the edge?
      Any thoughts or should I just go with ramps?

    22. 07-30-2008 05:38 PM #47
      Great write-up. I know what I am going to finally do myself now.
      TDI for the win !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    23. Banned VRsuper6's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jul 8th, 2007
      Posts
      6,029
      07-30-2008 05:55 PM #48
      Quote, originally posted by Damocles »
      This might seem like dumb question, but how do you jack the car up safely? I looked last night for some jack plates but found nothing. I'm not a big fan of side jacking as it tends to crush the edge?
      Any thoughts or should I just go with ramps?

      i always jack up from the front motor mount.

    24. 08-04-2008 04:30 PM #49
      I'm in a similar situation. I am the new owner of a 2k2 GTi VR6 12v and it's due for its first oil change since I've taken ownership of it.
      It's currently at 33K miles. Yup, only 33K.
      I've must've gone through half of the site looking for motor oil advice. Is there a thread that has recommended oil for the 12v VR6?

    25. 08-04-2008 07:46 PM #50
      nice write up

    Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •