Username or Email Address
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up

    VWVortex


    Page 3 of 50 FirstFirst 123456713 ... LastLast
    Results 71 to 105 of 1733

    Thread: 16V G60 - How to

    1. Member DougG60's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 4th, 2000
      Location
      jersey
      Posts
      1,776
      Vehicles
      90 16v vortech rado,11 ktm 990avd, ducati 848, 76 kz900
      02-02-2005 08:11 PM #71
      what engine are you running that you managed 211 with the lysholm. i made those same # on my very first dyno run stock cams, ic 30lb inj and digi around 6400rpm with the neuspeed chip

    2. Member StaggerLee's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 12th, 2001
      Location
      PacNorfWET
      Posts
      1,489
      02-02-2005 08:55 PM #72
      It's a PG block that's been bored to 83mm, 9:1 compression and a pretty healthy port job. Stock cams.

    3. Member DougG60's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 4th, 2000
      Location
      jersey
      Posts
      1,776
      Vehicles
      90 16v vortech rado,11 ktm 990avd, ducati 848, 76 kz900
      02-02-2005 11:46 PM #73
      you and everyone else need to try dual exhaust cams, the engine loves it. i was up to 219whp with a 72mm pulley at 7500rpm around 9psi. 268's would be fun but dual exhaust are too cheap to pass up

    4. 02-03-2005 09:20 AM #74
      Quote, originally posted by Wizard-of-OD »
      Guys....good news : $600US

      I JUST TALKED WITH BBM , I CAN GET THESE FOR 399 USD FROM THEM

      Up and Live >>> www.Herbys53.com <<< sick of the BS , check it out :thumb:
      860-798-5227 TEXT anytime
      Herbys53 VW/Audi Corral May 29th Lime Rock Park Ct.

      53Motorsports-Koni/APR/TT/Bilsteins/Oem+/Service:clap:

    5. 02-03-2005 09:22 AM #75
      LEE, are the alt mounts ready to sell yet? just looking to get 1st dibs on them . thanks .
      Up and Live >>> www.Herbys53.com <<< sick of the BS , check it out :thumb:
      860-798-5227 TEXT anytime
      Herbys53 VW/Audi Corral May 29th Lime Rock Park Ct.

      53Motorsports-Koni/APR/TT/Bilsteins/Oem+/Service:clap:

    6. 02-03-2005 10:00 AM #76
      Quote, originally posted by herby53-akaherby53 »

      I JUST TALKED WITH BBM , I CAN GET THESE FOR 399 USD FROM THEM

      What about just the Alt mounts?


    7. Member StaggerLee's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 12th, 2001
      Location
      PacNorfWET
      Posts
      1,489
      02-03-2005 11:40 AM #77
      Quote, originally posted by herby53-akaherby53 »

      I JUST TALKED WITH BBM , I CAN GET THESE FOR 399 USD FROM THEM

      I dunno man, I just talked to their sales guy 5 minutes ago and he called Bullsheet on that story...

      First you call me out on a public forum, and then you want dibs on the brackets....


    8. 02-03-2005 05:28 PM #78
      hey lee, didnt mean to get anyone upset , but i have the email saved that i got from the sale tech. he said it is the brackets and the only thing it doesnt come with it the stock tensioner. yes i really want to buy your brackets , but i am not going to over pay for them .
      Up and Live >>> www.Herbys53.com <<< sick of the BS , check it out :thumb:
      860-798-5227 TEXT anytime
      Herbys53 VW/Audi Corral May 29th Lime Rock Park Ct.

      53Motorsports-Koni/APR/TT/Bilsteins/Oem+/Service:clap:

    9. 02-04-2005 09:20 AM #79
      does anyone know if the 16v timing belt is the same lenght as a 8v ? just checking , i can messusre the heads to see if the 16v is taller then the 8v but maybe you guys know for sure . i am almost sure they are the same size ( but with different teeth ) thanks and lets keep up this post .
      Up and Live >>> www.Herbys53.com <<< sick of the BS , check it out :thumb:
      860-798-5227 TEXT anytime
      Herbys53 VW/Audi Corral May 29th Lime Rock Park Ct.

      53Motorsports-Koni/APR/TT/Bilsteins/Oem+/Service:clap:

    10. 02-04-2005 09:44 AM #80
      Not sure if they are the same length. It depends on the tensioners and the pitch of the teeth. Why does it matter? The 16V requires a slightly wider belt, so they aren't really compatible with any 8V belts... unless you want to chance bending all 16pretty valves by possibly snapping an overworked belt.

    11. 02-04-2005 10:17 AM #81
      so you think that a 8v belt will be over worked? i have a 9a bottomend that i used to run a 8v head on ( supper high compresion ) and now i am building one of these for my new corrado , but i didnt want to have to change out my oil pump , inter. shaft ( it is shaved and balanced ) , and i have a l/w interm. gear . ( i was runing the 8v set up on the motor before )

      plus i wanted to keep the dis. in the block not the head. i didnt think about the belt holding up to the power . what do you all think ? will an 8v belt hold up to a 16v g60

      Up and Live >>> www.Herbys53.com <<< sick of the BS , check it out :thumb:
      860-798-5227 TEXT anytime
      Herbys53 VW/Audi Corral May 29th Lime Rock Park Ct.

      53Motorsports-Koni/APR/TT/Bilsteins/Oem+/Service:clap:

    12. Member StaggerLee's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 12th, 2001
      Location
      PacNorfWET
      Posts
      1,489
      02-04-2005 11:30 AM #82
      Quote, originally posted by herby53-akaherby53 »
      will an 8v belt hold up to a 16v g60

      You can't run a 8v belt with a 16v cam gear.

      No worky.


    13. 02-04-2005 11:51 AM #83
      found a way around it , i am useing the middle of a 16v adj cam gear and the out side of a adj 8v cam gear.
      Up and Live >>> www.Herbys53.com <<< sick of the BS , check it out :thumb:
      860-798-5227 TEXT anytime
      Herbys53 VW/Audi Corral May 29th Lime Rock Park Ct.

      53Motorsports-Koni/APR/TT/Bilsteins/Oem+/Service:clap:

    14. 02-04-2005 11:54 AM #84
      Quote »
      what do you all think ? will an 8v belt hold up to a 16v g60

      I'd have to say use the 16v timing belt, VW must have gone with a wider timing belt for a very good reason.


    15. Member StaggerLee's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 12th, 2001
      Location
      PacNorfWET
      Posts
      1,489
      02-04-2005 12:00 PM #85
      Quote, originally posted by OttawaG60 »

      I'd have to say use the 16v timing belt, VW must have gone with a wider timing belt for a very good reason.

      I'm inclined to agree; the 16v belt is much beefier than the 8v belt. Engineers don't just change things like that for no particular reason.


    16. 02-04-2005 01:31 PM #86
      good point . looks like i got to find a 16v oil pump, pump gear, and intmed. shaft
      Up and Live >>> www.Herbys53.com <<< sick of the BS , check it out :thumb:
      860-798-5227 TEXT anytime
      Herbys53 VW/Audi Corral May 29th Lime Rock Park Ct.

      53Motorsports-Koni/APR/TT/Bilsteins/Oem+/Service:clap:

    17. 02-04-2005 01:32 PM #87
      wait , i thought there was a way to keep my dist. in the block , and not have it in the head? is this true and how do i do that ?
      Up and Live >>> www.Herbys53.com <<< sick of the BS , check it out :thumb:
      860-798-5227 TEXT anytime
      Herbys53 VW/Audi Corral May 29th Lime Rock Park Ct.

      53Motorsports-Koni/APR/TT/Bilsteins/Oem+/Service:clap:

    18. 02-05-2005 05:18 PM #88
      Quote, originally posted by Wizard-of-OD »

      The End Result courtesy of OttawaG60:

      Does ANYONE know where I can get that beautiful U-shaped G60 outlet piece. I want to run a front mount on my G60 16v and that looks like the best piece to start with. I remember it being hard to fine, but anyone know where? Please help!


    19. 02-05-2005 05:21 PM #89
      Quote, originally posted by jwatts »
      A very nice chip, too. .

      42# 3.5 bar fpr, 68mm pulley (poor charger)
      stacked Headgasket 9A block with 2L 16V head
      stock cams, or Autotech Cams

      214whp sounds promising when it's scratching the surface of the 16VG60 potential

      In the coming weeks, the car should receive a 50mm intake, so we'll see what it's worth on this setup at the dyno.

      Hopefully, by this summer, the car might have a worked 1.8L 16V head to throw down some even better #s.

      I have those 42# injectors with with a 3.5 bar FPR and a similar setup but more air (ported TB and head, Cams, 50mm intake, headers). Should I go 4.0 bar FPR or will that be overkill? After all, I wlll be using your chip.

      Also, what's the deal with those FPR's that are boost sensitive, like EIP sells. Is that worth the time/money?


    20. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 12th, 2004
      Location
      EVERYWHERE
      Posts
      13,381
      Vehicles
      91 Audi 80 2.0T
      02-05-2005 06:02 PM #90
      Quote, originally posted by Corrado79 »

      Does ANYONE know where I can get that beautiful U-shaped G60 outlet piece. I want to run a front mount on my G60 16v and that looks like the best piece to start with. I remember it being hard to fine, but anyone know where? Please help!

      I believe Bahn Brenner sells them,Or you can custom make one


    21. 02-05-2005 11:33 PM #91
      Quote, originally posted by Wizard-of-OD »

      Now for the Conrods you can use your stock PG G60 rods but it is recommended that you use PL 16V Rods + Custom Pistons due to the fact that your rod ratio using the PG rods will be too short.

      Oops! I left the G60 rods in my conversion. Is that going to be a problem? What's the result of doing that?


    22. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 12th, 2004
      Location
      EVERYWHERE
      Posts
      13,381
      Vehicles
      91 Audi 80 2.0T
      02-06-2005 03:41 AM #92
      Quote, originally posted by Corrado79 »

      Oops! I left the G60 rods in my conversion. Is that going to be a problem? What's the result of doing that?

      Smaller Rod Ratio


    23. 02-06-2005 03:50 AM #93
      Quote, originally posted by Wizard-of-OD »

      Smaller Rod Ratio

      And that means... ?


    24. 02-07-2005 07:14 AM #94
      Quote, originally posted by Corrado79 »

      Does ANYONE know where I can get that beautiful U-shaped G60 outlet piece. I want to run a front mount on my G60 16v and that looks like the best piece to start with. I remember it being hard to fine, but anyone know where? Please help!

      ebay.de, that's where I got mine from


    25. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 12th, 2004
      Location
      EVERYWHERE
      Posts
      13,381
      Vehicles
      91 Audi 80 2.0T
      02-07-2005 11:23 AM #95
      Quote, originally posted by Corrado79 »

      And that means... ?

      Your building a PL G60 or a PG G60?You always want to utilise the rod ratio (longer the conrod you can get,the better,in this case 144mm as apposed to 136mm)

      Quote, originally posted by Not2Fast »

      Taken from this site:
      PG - 1.8 8V G60 :
      Compression Ratio = 8:1
      Rod Length = 136mm
      Wrist Pin Diamater = 22mm
      Bore = 81mm
      9A - 2.0 16V :
      Compression Ratio = 10.8:1
      Rod Length = 144mm
      Wrist Pin Diameter= 20mm
      Bore = 82.5mm
      PL - 1.8 16V :
      Compression Ratio = 10:1
      Rod Length = 144mm
      Wrist Pin Diameter= 20mm
      Bore = 81mm

    26. 02-07-2005 04:57 PM #96
      Quote, originally posted by OttawaG60 »

      ebay.de, that's where I got mine from

      Thanks for the tip! I never realized that such a great resource was out there. I guess I need to start learning German now


    27. 02-07-2005 04:59 PM #97
      Quote, originally posted by Wizard-of-OD »

      Your building a PL G60 or a PG G60?You always want to utilise the rod ratio (longer the conrod you can get,the better,in this case 144mm as apposed to 136mm)

      I have a PG G60 block which has a 1.8 16v head on it. I kept the stock G60 rods. Why do I want to keep the rod ratio? What is the disadvantage of not doing so? Why do I want a longer rod? Sorry for me being so ignorant. I'm new to this. Thanks for understanding.


    28. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 12th, 2004
      Location
      EVERYWHERE
      Posts
      13,381
      Vehicles
      91 Audi 80 2.0T
      02-07-2005 05:03 PM #98
      Quote, originally posted by Corrado79 »
      I have a PG G60 block which has a 1.8 16v head on it. I kept the stock G60 rods. Why do I want to keep the rod ratio? What is the disadvantage of not doing so? Why do I want a longer rod? Sorry for me being so ignorant. I'm new to this. Thanks for understanding.

      Woa...what pistons are you using?


    29. 02-07-2005 05:11 PM #99
      Quote, originally posted by Wizard-of-OD »

      Woa...what pistons are you using?

      The custom Ross pistons that BahnBrenner sells with its 16v G60 conversion kit. BBM never mentioned anything about changing the conrods.


    30. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 12th, 2004
      Location
      EVERYWHERE
      Posts
      13,381
      Vehicles
      91 Audi 80 2.0T
      02-07-2005 05:17 PM #100
      Quote, originally posted by Corrado79 »

      The custom Ross pistons that BahnBrenner sells with its 16v G60 conversion kit. BBM never mentioned anything about changing the conrods.

      Didnt know you were staying with the 1.8 Stroke.Rule of thumb is the greater the rod length the better the rod ratio.
      Should be fine

    31. 02-07-2005 05:20 PM #101
      Quote, originally posted by Wizard-of-OD »

      Didnt know you were staying with the 1.8 Stroke.Rule of thumb is the greater the rod length the better the rod ratio.
      Should be fine

      Yeah, same stroke, but little larger piston. One more question. "Better the rod ratio." What does that mean? Basically, in laymen's terms, what exactly is the benefit of good rod ratio??


    32. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 12th, 2004
      Location
      EVERYWHERE
      Posts
      13,381
      Vehicles
      91 Audi 80 2.0T
      02-07-2005 05:34 PM #102
      Quote, originally posted by Corrado79 »

      Yeah, same stroke, but little larger piston. One more question. "Better the rod ratio." What does that mean? Basically, in laymen's terms, what exactly is the benefit of good rod ratio??

      Rod Ratio = Rod Length/Stroke
      Since your stroke isnt changing (86.4mm) then the only thing you can do to increase your rod ratio is to increase the length of the con rod.A longer con rod creates a narrower Rod : Piston angle when the piston is halfway down the cylinder ,causing less friction which means a smaller force is needed to move the piston.With a larger rod : piston angle there is more vibration in the engine.
      Just simple mechanics


    33. 02-07-2005 07:35 PM #103
      if i dont need the bbm water neck seeing that i will be runing a G not the twin screw. then where do i plug in the sensors ? i noticed that my 2L 16v head has two sensors on the side of the head , ( by that water neck , ) is that where i plug them in to . ? thanks
      Up and Live >>> www.Herbys53.com <<< sick of the BS , check it out :thumb:
      860-798-5227 TEXT anytime
      Herbys53 VW/Audi Corral May 29th Lime Rock Park Ct.

      53Motorsports-Koni/APR/TT/Bilsteins/Oem+/Service:clap:

    34. 02-07-2005 08:19 PM #104
      Quote, originally posted by Wizard-of-OD »

      Rod Ratio = Rod Length/Stroke
      Since your stroke isnt changing (86.4mm) then the only thing you can do to increase your rod ratio is to increase the length of the con rod.A longer con rod creates a narrower Rod : Piston angle when the piston is halfway down the cylinder ,causing less friction which means a smaller force is needed to move the piston.With a larger rod : piston angle there is more vibration in the engine.
      Just simple mechanics

      AH! I see now. Thanks for the explanation


    35. 02-08-2005 10:03 AM #105

      built a spacer to fit this VW flange to hold the blue coolant temp sensor for the Digi-1 setup.


    Page 3 of 50 FirstFirst 123456713 ... LastLast

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •