It's a PG block that's been bored to 83mm, 9:1 compression and a pretty healthy port job. Stock cams.
#71
what engine are you running that you managed 211 with the lysholm. i made those same # on my very first dyno run stock cams, ic 30lb inj and digi around 6400rpm with the neuspeed chip
#72
It's a PG block that's been bored to 83mm, 9:1 compression and a pretty healthy port job. Stock cams.
#73
you and everyone else need to try dual exhaust cams, the engine loves it. i was up to 219whp with a 72mm pulley at 7500rpm around 9psi. 268's would be fun but dual exhaust are too cheap to pass up
#74
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#75
LEE, are the alt mounts ready to sell yet? just looking to get 1st dibs on them . thanks .
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#76
Quote, originally posted by herby53-akaherby53 » I JUST TALKED WITH BBM , I CAN GET THESE FOR 399 USD FROM THEM
What about just the Alt mounts?
#77
Quote, originally posted by herby53-akaherby53 » I JUST TALKED WITH BBM , I CAN GET THESE FOR 399 USD FROM THEM
I dunno man, I just talked to their sales guy 5 minutes ago and he called Bullsheet on that story...
First you call me out on a public forum, and then you want dibs on the brackets....
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#78
hey lee, didnt mean to get anyone upset , but i have the email saved that i got from the sale tech. he said it is the brackets and the only thing it doesnt come with it the stock tensioner. yes i really want to buy your brackets , but i am not going to over pay for them .
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#79
does anyone know if the 16v timing belt is the same lenght as a 8v ? just checking , i can messusre the heads to see if the 16v is taller then the 8v but maybe you guys know for sure . i am almost sure they are the same size ( but with different teeth ) thanks and lets keep up this post .
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#80
Not sure if they are the same length. It depends on the tensioners and the pitch of the teeth. Why does it matter? The 16V requires a slightly wider belt, so they aren't really compatible with any 8V belts... unless you want to chance bending all 16pretty valves by possibly snapping an overworked belt.
#81
so you think that a 8v belt will be over worked? i have a 9a bottomend that i used to run a 8v head on ( supper high compresion ) and now i am building one of these for my new corrado , but i didnt want to have to change out my oil pump , inter. shaft ( it is shaved and balanced ) , and i have a l/w interm. gear . ( i was runing the 8v set up on the motor before )plus i wanted to keep the dis. in the block not the head. i didnt think about the belt holding up to the power . what do you all think ? will an 8v belt hold up to a 16v g60
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#82
Quote, originally posted by herby53-akaherby53 » will an 8v belt hold up to a 16v g60 You can't run a 8v belt with a 16v cam gear.
No worky.
#83
found a way around it , i am useing the middle of a 16v adj cam gear and the out side of a adj 8v cam gear.
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#84
Quote » what do you all think ? will an 8v belt hold up to a 16v g60 I'd have to say use the 16v timing belt, VW must have gone with a wider timing belt for a very good reason.
#85
Quote, originally posted by OttawaG60 » I'd have to say use the 16v timing belt, VW must have gone with a wider timing belt for a very good reason.
I'm inclined to agree; the 16v belt is much beefier than the 8v belt. Engineers don't just change things like that for no particular reason.
#86
good point . looks like i got to find a 16v oil pump, pump gear, and intmed. shaft![]()
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#87
wait , i thought there was a way to keep my dist. in the block , and not have it in the head? is this true and how do i do that ?
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#88
Quote, originally posted by Wizard-of-OD »
The End Result courtesy of OttawaG60:Does ANYONE know where I can get that beautiful U-shaped G60 outlet piece.
I want to run a front mount on my G60 16v and that looks like the best piece to start with. I remember it being hard to fine, but anyone know where? Please help!
#89
Quote, originally posted by jwatts » A very nice chip, too. .
42# 3.5 bar fpr, 68mm pulley (poor charger)
stacked Headgasket 9A block with 2L 16V head
stock cams, or Autotech Cams214whp sounds promising when it's scratching the surface of the 16VG60 potential
In the coming weeks, the car should receive a 50mm intake, so we'll see what it's worth on this setup at the dyno.
Hopefully, by this summer, the car might have a worked 1.8L 16V head to throw down some even better #s.
I have those 42# injectors with with a 3.5 bar FPR and a similar setup but more air (ported TB and head, Cams, 50mm intake, headers). Should I go 4.0 bar FPR or will that be overkill? After all, I wlll be using your chip.
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Also, what's the deal with those FPR's that are boost sensitive, like EIP sells. Is that worth the time/money?
#90
Quote, originally posted by Corrado79 »
Does ANYONE know where I can get that beautiful U-shaped G60 outlet piece.I want to run a front mount on my G60 16v and that looks like the best piece to start with. I remember it being hard to fine, but anyone know where? Please help!
I believe Bahn Brenner sells them,Or you can custom make one
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#91
Quote, originally posted by Wizard-of-OD »
Now for the Conrods you can use your stock PG G60 rods but it is recommended that you use PL 16V Rods + Custom Pistons due to the fact that your rod ratio using the PG rods will be too short.Oops! I left the G60 rods in my conversion. Is that going to be a problem? What's the result of doing that?
#92
Quote, originally posted by Corrado79 »
Oops! I left the G60 rods in my conversion. Is that going to be a problem? What's the result of doing that?Smaller Rod Ratio
#93
Quote, originally posted by Wizard-of-OD » Smaller Rod Ratio
And that means... ?
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#94
Quote, originally posted by Corrado79 » Does ANYONE know where I can get that beautiful U-shaped G60 outlet piece.
I want to run a front mount on my G60 16v and that looks like the best piece to start with. I remember it being hard to fine, but anyone know where? Please help!
ebay.de, that's where I got mine from
#95
Quote, originally posted by Corrado79 »
And that means... ?![]()
Your building a PL G60 or a PG G60?You always want to utilise the rod ratio (longer the conrod you can get,the better,in this case 144mm as apposed to 136mm)
Quote, originally posted by Not2Fast »
Taken from this site:
PG - 1.8 8V G60 :
Compression Ratio = 8:1
Rod Length = 136mm
Wrist Pin Diamater = 22mm
Bore = 81mm
9A - 2.0 16V :
Compression Ratio = 10.8:1
Rod Length = 144mm
Wrist Pin Diameter= 20mm
Bore = 82.5mm
PL - 1.8 16V :
Compression Ratio = 10:1
Rod Length = 144mm
Wrist Pin Diameter= 20mm
Bore = 81mm
#96
Quote, originally posted by OttawaG60 » ebay.de, that's where I got mine from
Thanks for the tip! I never realized that such a great resource was out there. I guess I need to start learning German now
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#97
Quote, originally posted by Wizard-of-OD » Your building a PL G60 or a PG G60?You always want to utilise the rod ratio (longer the conrod you can get,the better,in this case 144mm as apposed to 136mm)
I have a PG G60 block which has a 1.8 16v head on it. I kept the stock G60 rods. Why do I want to keep the rod ratio? What is the disadvantage of not doing so? Why do I want a longer rod? Sorry for me being so ignorant. I'm new to this. Thanks for understanding.
#98
Quote, originally posted by Corrado79 » I have a PG G60 block which has a 1.8 16v head on it. I kept the stock G60 rods. Why do I want to keep the rod ratio? What is the disadvantage of not doing so? Why do I want a longer rod? Sorry for me being so ignorant. I'm new to this. Thanks for understanding. Woa...what pistons are you using?
#99
Quote, originally posted by Wizard-of-OD » Woa...what pistons are you using?
The custom Ross pistons that BahnBrenner sells with its 16v G60 conversion kit. BBM never mentioned anything about changing the conrods.
#100
Quote, originally posted by Corrado79 »
The custom Ross pistons that BahnBrenner sells with its 16v G60 conversion kit. BBM never mentioned anything about changing the conrods.
Didnt know you were staying with the 1.8 Stroke.Rule of thumb is the greater the rod length the better the rod ratio.
Should be fine
#101
Quote, originally posted by Wizard-of-OD »
Didnt know you were staying with the 1.8 Stroke.Rule of thumb is the greater the rod length the better the rod ratio.
Should be fineYeah, same stroke, but little larger piston. One more question. "Better the rod ratio." What does that mean? Basically, in laymen's terms, what exactly is the benefit of good rod ratio??
#102
Quote, originally posted by Corrado79 » Yeah, same stroke, but little larger piston. One more question. "Better the rod ratio." What does that mean? Basically, in laymen's terms, what exactly is the benefit of good rod ratio??
Rod Ratio = Rod Length/Stroke
Since your stroke isnt changing (86.4mm) then the only thing you can do to increase your rod ratio is to increase the length of the con rod.A longer con rod creates a narrower Rod : Piston angle when the piston is halfway down the cylinder ,causing less friction which means a smaller force is needed to move the piston.With a larger rod : piston angle there is more vibration in the engine.
Just simple mechanics
#103
if i dont need the bbm water neck seeing that i will be runing a G not the twin screw. then where do i plug in the sensors ? i noticed that my 2L 16v head has two sensors on the side of the head , ( by that water neck , ) is that where i plug them in to . ? thanks
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#104
Quote, originally posted by Wizard-of-OD » Rod Ratio = Rod Length/Stroke
Since your stroke isnt changing (86.4mm) then the only thing you can do to increase your rod ratio is to increase the length of the con rod.A longer con rod creates a narrower Rod : Piston angle when the piston is halfway down the cylinder ,causing less friction which means a smaller force is needed to move the piston.With a larger rod : piston angle there is more vibration in the engine.
Just simple mechanicsAH! I see now. Thanks for the explanation
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#105
built a spacer to fit this VW flange to hold the blue coolant temp sensor for the Digi-1 setup.