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    Thread: 16V G60 - How to

    1. Member ewillard's Avatar
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      05-19-2010 01:32 AM #1401
      well got my 16v lysholm running today and drove it feels good to drive my raddo after driving a geo metro for the past month got some tweeking to do and i have to get it running on Megasquirt cause stock digi it runs like ****. hopefully tomorrow ill get it to start on MS then the fun of tunning starts.

    2. Member PrimaVW's Avatar
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      05-21-2010 02:14 AM #1402
      I want to get this straight as I am doing a 16v swap in my Corrado and would love to retain the glader...

      So far I am seeing a decent list of G60 items I must retain which luckily I have, so to make sure I'm on the same page...

      -I need to dish the pistons to lower compression
      -I do not plan on retaining the A/C so the alt will fit under the Glader?
      -I have a Digifant, so will a bbm stage 4 chip work for the fueling issues, or do I need to get a CUSTOM chip from sns?
      -What about belt sizes?
      Family First

    3. Member
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      05-24-2010 08:48 AM #1403
      1
      Last edited by Crescent; 05-26-2010 at 08:42 PM.

    4. Member
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      05-24-2010 09:36 AM #1404
      Quote Originally Posted by ozzman_g7 View Post
      Hey John, I want to use a FMIC and I saw a guy from Canada running like this, is it safe?

      Or what other options do I have so I can run FMIC?



      Modified by ozzman_g7 at 2:26 PM 5-2-2010

      Thats my setup in my old Corrado...I have that engine in my new Corrado with a few changes and soon to have my RMR SRI on it.




      BTW that setup is perfectly fine for the chargers placement...I have also decided to run this Lysholm self contained as per PSE advice instead of oil fed from the engine as my first Lysholm seized due to oil getting restricted through that ****ty pin hole of a feedline that comes with the BBM kit. Since PSE set me up I have now been runnin self -contained for over a year and I can actually touch my charger after a good drive and its not piping hot as it was when I chose to use the oil feedline. I sent my first charger to BBM and they could do nothin as they couldn't source new screws but were nice enough to send it for me to PSE after I contacted them to see if they had new screws in which they did and after lengthy talks with Edward at PSE he assured me this charger should be self contained...and all I can say is ever since I went self contained...its alot colder ...zero problems and I am not mixing dirty engine oil into my charger. I check my charger periodically for oil...never burns and is still crystal clear. I did a full flush as per PSE after 1 year and it was crystal clear as day 1.
      Last edited by Crescent; 05-26-2010 at 08:43 PM.

    5. Member PrimaVW's Avatar
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      05-24-2010 01:59 PM #1405
      Quote Originally Posted by Crescent View Post
      - You need either get low compression pistons, low compression metal head gasket or double stack headgaskets.

      - The alternator will fit under the G-ladder but modifications will need be done as its not a direct fit to where the AC compressor was. I personally have a 16v Lysholm so I had to opt for the ABA alternator which I located under the charger as its smaller then the G-60 one. I had to notch a 2"x1" section out of my subframe in order to attach the harness to the alternator. Keep in mind I run my Lysholm reversed so the outlet sits out front as I run a FMIC which in turn makes the charger sit another 2" lower....which i'm glad as I will be swapping my scirocco intake soon for my RMR SRI with a VR6 throttle body.

      - You need convert the 16v to serpentine belt.

      - The BBM stage 4 chip will work for the time being but you will need get a custom 16v charged chip from SNS as the BBM chip was designed for the G-60 using red top injectors which are single spray and the 16v charged runs best using dual spray injectors.
      Belt you will need play with as its all in your pulley configurations and how you tension your belt so it gets good wrap around the charger...which is alt of peoples problems.

      You need also vent the head by either tapping AN fittings on the valve cover or using a beetle breather under the oil cap. I used the beetle breather and a massive modified breather port in the front of the block. Venting the engine was the biggest problem I found but I been going strong for over a year with zero problems.


      -Ok being that I'm new to the 16v... are headstuds necessary to run a metal low compression head gasket or doublestack??
      -Best way to mount the alternator?
      -How do I convert the 16v to serpentine? Can I source pulleys from other vw's or do i need to buy a kit?
      -What is the main problem with running single spray injectors? will the engine run lean?
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      05-24-2010 03:53 PM #1406
      Quote Originally Posted by PrimaVW View Post
      -Ok being that I'm new to the 16v... are headstuds necessary to run a metal low compression head gasket or doublestack??
      -Best way to mount the alternator?
      -How do I convert the 16v to serpentine? Can I source pulleys from other vw's or do i need to buy a kit?
      -What is the main problem with running single spray injectors? will the engine run lean?


      -Headstuds are 100% needed for forced inductionIMHO
      -Best way to mount alternator is below the charger IMHO....I had the kit that mounted behind the head but there was way to much slack/belt travel from alternator to charger.
      Contact Issam ant INA Engineering he has the serp conversion kit...its cheap and he can also fab up the charger bracket to hold the charger an alt where the AC compressor would go...yes you will lose AC by going under the charger...that is if you can't figure it out...its pretty damn easy if you have any skill at fabrication though and have access to a welder or someone who does.
      -My engine never leaned out with single spray city driving but at high rpms it did. Single spray injectors just aren't big enough for the added boost levels...I guess it really depends on your boost levels...but most people run at least the ford green tops on charged 16v's

    7. Member PrimaVW's Avatar
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      06-02-2010 12:43 AM #1407
      Quote Originally Posted by Crescent View Post
      -Headstuds are 100% needed for forced inductionIMHO
      -Best way to mount alternator is below the charger IMHO....I had the kit that mounted behind the head but there was way to much slack/belt travel from alternator to charger.
      Contact Issam ant INA Engineering he has the serp conversion kit...its cheap and he can also fab up the charger bracket to hold the charger an alt where the AC compressor would go...yes you will lose AC by going under the charger...that is if you can't figure it out...its pretty damn easy if you have any skill at fabrication though and have access to a welder or someone who does.
      -My engine never leaned out with single spray city driving but at high rpms it did. Single spray injectors just aren't big enough for the added boost levels...I guess it really depends on your boost levels...but most people run at least the ford green tops on charged 16v's
      -So you are saying I can't use the stock G60 serp setup on the 16v?
      -Ok, I have the access to a welder. So just to double check this, I will be using a MK3 alt under the charger... this will NOT mount up into the AC bracket?
      -The boost level I will be running is 10 psi... ok for g60 injectors?
      Family First

    8. Member
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      06-02-2010 08:03 PM #1408
      Quote Originally Posted by PrimaVW View Post
      -So you are saying I can't use the stock G60 serp setup on the 16v?
      -Ok, I have the access to a welder. So just to double check this, I will be using a MK3 alt under the charger... this will NOT mount up into the AC bracket?
      -The boost level I will be running is 10 psi... ok for g60 injectors?

      -No u need a 16v serp crank pulley from either BBM or INA (1.8t pulley with 6mm spacer) he has a kit which also includes the serp alternator pulley and water pump pulley. You can just run v-belt on water pump and power steering and just use serp on crank, charger and alternator...alternator pulley will be the same.
      - The alternator will not bolt up you just need modify the lower bracket..basically an extra tube welded on to mount the lower part of the alternator....very easy..when you mock up your alternator on the bracket below the charger you will see you can use the top mount but the bottom needs to come out more. more or less a 10 min project with a welder.
      -You can use stock G60 injectors..you might just lean out as the stock G60 injectors are single spray. This is where an A/F gauge is required.


      You also need a front coolant flange for the 16v that exits to the right (when looking at it from the front) as the stock flange will hit the charger...BBM sell this ..u also need another flange adapter for the for the side of the 16v head in order for the sensors to clear the throttle body...again another BBM product.

    9. Member still_a_G's Avatar
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      06-08-2010 07:25 PM #1409
      Found some info concerning the CS130 alternator (for mounting under the charger)
      First, credit where it's due: http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.p...32680&start=25

      Info:

      If we break down the code "DLG1395-6-11" The "5" is the bracket flange attachments. The "6" is the groove count of the pulley. The "11" is the phasing of the back cover. You can always remove the three bolts and rotate the rear body if you have to!!!!

      DLG1352-6-7 DLG1395-6-11 Autozone
      P79367,P7868-6-11 Advanceautoparts

      Used On:
      1989-1993 Buick Century With 3.3L Engine
      1985-1997 OLDSMOBILE FIRENZA With A/C Engine: L4 2.0 Liter FI Prt#P7868-6-11
      1990 pickup or van with 7.4L
      BUICK CENTURY 89 3.3L(204) V6 All
      BUICK CENTURY 91-90 3.3L(204) V6 All
      BUICK CENTURY 92 3.3L(204) V6 1st Prod
      OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS CIERA 89 3.3L(204) V6 All
      OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS CIERA 90 3.3L(204) V6 From Mid 1990
      OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS CIERA 90 3.3L(204) V6 To Mid 1990
      OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS CIERA 91 3.3L(204) V6 All
      REPLACES THESE ORIGINAL NUMBERS:

      AC DELCO 334-2325, 334-2325, 334-2369, 334-2418
      DELCO 10463117, 1101475, 1101608, 321-408, 10463177, 10463208, 10479898, 10479937, 10479938, 321-408, 321-469, 321-499
      DELPHI RM1011

      A stock GM CS130 ) (1990's) will produce between 50 to 60 amps at an idle.Need to be revved up to 2000rpm to get it to turn on 14-16volts.

      All CS130 Alternators are 105AMP
      All CS144 Alternators are 140AMP Cadillac Deville,Eldorado,Seville With 4.9L

      $100.00 + @ your local parts store, what i paid $15 @ pullapart and had it tested works 100% i'm goingback to get another 1 an rebuild it so i can have a spare or drop da 140 Amp kit in bigger stator is required from an cs144 $35.00 to rebuild.

      "How to Determine Ratio and Rotor Speed"

      The alternator rotor RPM is not necessarily the same as engine RPM. To calculate the actual alternator RPM, determine the ratio between the two pulley diameters.

      Ratio = Crankshaft Pulley Diameter/ Alternator Pulley Diameter

      Now that we know the ratio, we can now determine the rotor speed:

      Rotor RPM = Pulley Ratio x Engine Speed (example; 2.1 x 870 = 1827 Rotor RPM)

      Tech Tip: Generally, the alternator should be 1:1 with the motor for circle track racing. For drag racing, the alternator should be overdriven by a ratio of 1.75:1 or more. This will allow charging on the return slip and in staging. For street use, we recommend 3:1.

      Also:

      The CS130 / CS144 Alternators
      In 1986 GM introduced the completely new, 105-amp, CS130 Delcotron alternator (CS130 = Charging System with 130 mm diameter stator) because the SI series alternators could not keep up with the increased electrical demand and because overdrive transmissions were lowering engine and alternator rpms. The CS130 weighs less, is smaller in diameter but uses the same 6.6" mounting-hole, center-to-center distance, uses less internal parts, has a better voltage regulator system, has increased durability and is less noisy (audibly and electrically) than the SI alternator it replaced.

      There is also a 120-amp, CS144 version if you need more output because you're running large amounts of electrical equipment in your vehicle such as high-powered stereos.

      Typical CS Sources

      Delco CS130 Series (100-105 Amp /Single V groove pully) Delco 1101229, 1101275, 1101292 / Lester 7808, 7888 used on 88-90 5.0L Buick Estate Wagon, Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham (RWD), Chevrolet Caprice, Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser and Pontiac Safari.
      Delco CS144 Series (140 Amp/6-Groove Pulley) Delco 10479891, 10480201 / Lester 8112 used on 93-96 5.7L Buick Roadmaster, Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham (RWD), Chevrolet Caprice and Chevrolet Impala 5.7L
      The 105 amp version size is close to typical SI alternator. So you can use the original brackets. Typical SI alternator is only 63 amps and at higher RPM's than what the CS's need. In other words, at idle, the CS is putting out, where as the SI is just spinning.

      The 105 amp CS130 alternator is on late-80's GM truck or full size car with mounting ears that are 180-deg apart. Most will come with a serpentine belt pulley so you will have to change over your pulley if you are still using a V-belt.

      The flange for the tensioning bolt and the alternator bracket are tapped for metric bolts so you will need to get 8 x 1.25mm bolts. The alternator bracket may need to be modified and you will probably need a couple of washers to take up the space between the alternator bracket and the new alternator.

      Most of the connectors for the CS alternators are four wire but will only use two of them and the wiring is the same as the SI.

      CS series wiring pin-out:

      S = Heavy gauge wire to the battery supply usually red (loop back to post on back of alternator).
      F = small gauge brown wire - not used.
      L = Small gauge brown/red wire - comes from the dash light and energizes the alternator.
      P = Smal gauge brown/white wire - not used.

      CS Install Note: The switched 'light' (terminal 1 on SI or 'L' on CS), must have 12V switched power with between 35 and 350 ohm resistance (typically the light itself). If below 35 ohm, the CS units will not work. That resistance is normally the bulb! If you try to be "custom" and use a LED, there isn't the correct resistance and the alternator will not work correctly! You can't just by-pass the light! You may need to add a resistor to this lead. Some documentation suggests that a switched power source can be connected to the 'F' terminal instead, where there is supposed to be an internal resistor.

    10. Member still_a_G's Avatar
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      06-09-2010 12:43 AM #1410
      Solution for the pesky booster in the Corrado
      Courtesty of http://www.longstreet-engineering.com/



      Last edited by still_a_G; 06-09-2010 at 12:52 AM.

    11. Member Hemingway'sToe's Avatar
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      06-09-2010 05:08 PM #1411
      Quote Originally Posted by still_a_G View Post
      Solution for the pesky booster in the Corrado
      Courtesty of http://www.longstreet-engineering.com/

      What Dizzy is being run here? No need for elbow or lower-to-upper spacer.

    12. Member
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      06-09-2010 07:50 PM #1412
      need to bookmark for my project

    13. Member 92VW's Avatar
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      06-18-2010 09:53 PM #1413
      BTW that setup is perfectly fine for the chargers placement...I have also decided to run this Lysholm self contained as per PSE advice instead of oil fed from the engine as my first Lysholm seized due to oil getting restricted through that ****ty pin hole of a feedline that comes with the BBM kit. Since PSE set me up I have now been runnin self -contained for over a year and I can actually touch my charger after a good drive and its not piping hot as it was when I chose to use the oil feedline. I sent my first charger to BBM and they could do nothin as they couldn't source new screws but were nice enough to send it for me to PSE after I contacted them to see if they had new screws in which they did and after lengthy talks with Edward at PSE he assured me this charger should be self contained...and all I can say is ever since I went self contained...its alot colder ...zero problems and I am not mixing dirty engine oil into my charger. I check my charger periodically for oil...never burns and is still crystal clear. I did a full flush as per PSE after 1 year and it was crystal clear as day 1.
      How about some more info on the self contained setup it sounds pretty sweet. maybe some pics?

    14. Member still_a_G's Avatar
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      06-19-2010 06:26 PM #1414
      Quote Originally Posted by Hemingway'sToe View Post
      What Dizzy is being run here? No need for elbow or lower-to-upper spacer.
      He's just got the bypass actuator modified, looks flipped. Probably the most simple solution actually. Just gotta make sure it works as intended.

    15. Member ewillard's Avatar
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      06-23-2010 05:25 AM #1415
      well im sorry to say i am leaving the 16v g60 (well i had a lysholm) but its time for big hp so turbo time. lysholm stuff is for sale. and dibs will go out to you guys. for all your help. i have everypart youl need to swap the lysholm to your car and some extras 16v g60 stuff i will not need now that im going turbo.

      was a g60 setup after i blew the pg motor i had it on a 2L 16V total has maybe 18000miles. was run with the 63mm pully most its life and a 53mm for the past 6000miles. no problems ever its always had royal purple in it. ill get pics this week. it will stay on my car untill its sold. resson is its getting old and cant make enough power. time for BIG HP so turbo time.


      charger
      53mm 18+psi ,63mm 12+psi pulleys
      g60 oil return line
      all mounting bolts
      oil feed line
      i got more stuff let me know your set up and ill try and make as complet bolt on as possible

      start at say $2000

      will trade for 16v turbo stuff, manifold, wastegate, DP, turbos(must be good and large) air-water
      intercooler,


      i have some cool custom parts i made for this setup that i will sell with it if yall want them including a amazing tensoner setup. glader braket and under charger alt mounting. so other goodies i cant remember right now.

    16. 06-29-2010 09:24 PM #1416
      OK so i have done the conversion last year and now have e-manage and a msd box running the car. The one thing that I'm still having problems with is that at high rpm the oil is filling up the valve cover and filling up my oil cache can. I'm thinking of taping a hole in the valve cover and run down to the oil pane. Do I have to do this or is there something I'm missing ????



      Thanks

    17. Forum Sponsor JBETZ's Avatar
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      06-30-2010 01:14 AM #1417
      i run a valve cover breather tube with a "t" into the breather tube off the front of the block into a catch can that drains to the pan.
      BBM -Bahn Brenner Motorsport
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    18. Member
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      07-05-2010 02:51 AM #1418
      I found him.

      Don't know if anyone can help me out or not. I had been sending IMs with a guy down in Georgia(I think) who had a low compression 16V for sale. I actually think that he was talking "turbo" rather than G60. The engine had not been assembled but he had a machined block and head. Head work was done by a shop in Atlanta, I think. Thread was like two years old and a couple of pages long. I know that there were posts this year. Lost track with the change over and I can't come up with the right search terms. If anyone remembers this thread and knows the actual title, the poster's username or actual name please let me know by posting here, sending an IM, at gctphamilton@sbcglobal.net or 510 375 2071. Thanks a lot.
      Last edited by suburbangeorge; 07-13-2010 at 02:50 AM.
      Classified forum rules require that you post a price. If you don't know what to ask, they suggest that you search past FS threads.

      So, when your item sells, please don't edit out your price and description when you mark it "SOLD". Rather, edit to show selling price.

    19. Member
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      07-13-2010 02:29 AM #1419
      Hey guys I sold my 16VG60 the other day and took off all the 034 motorsport stuff. Check out the ad in Corrado parts area. Selling it pretty reasonable. Here is the thread : http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...or-Turbo-C-car
      Brent
      Last edited by pickardaudi; 07-13-2010 at 02:32 AM.

    20. 07-15-2010 06:06 AM #1420
      Quote Originally Posted by JBETZ View Post
      i run a valve cover breather tube with a "t" into the breather tube off the front of the block into a catch can that drains to the pan.

      any pics of this setup?

      interested in the valve cover end of the setup

    21. 07-29-2010 11:39 PM #1421
      Great thread! Tons of info, so much in fact that I'm getting lost. I have some questions, but first I'll explain my intentions.

      I'm trying to put together a toy for me and the fam to bring to the drag strip or to scca for fun.

      what I already have:

      1 complete PL from a scirocco
      1 complete PG from a coraddo (KK stage 4 built + full porting, BBM Stage 4 kit)
      2 complete ABA's (one from a '94, one from a '95)

      I know the norm is to swap a 16v head onto a PG block. Now my father and I do have experience with costom fab, so I was thinking of adapting the the charger/AC/power steering bracket to bolt on the front of an ABA block with a 16v head on it. What management should be run? For innercooling I'd like to keep piping lengths down, but still have high efficiency. Would a Frozenboost AWIC be worth it, or should I just stick with the stock IC? What is a good cam setup for this? The crank will be balanced, and the whole bottom end will be blueprinted/balanced, so would a LW flywheel be overkill? How necessary are windage trays? Should I run an 020 or an 02a? This will all be in a MkI GTI, Is there such a think as tri-y header for a ABA 16v for a MkI? Any other advice or ideas?

      Thanks guys!

      P.S. I know turbo charging the PL would be just as fast with less work, but this project is also for the sake of me and my dad trying to see if we can pull off doing some more serious and complicated fab/ racing work (we might be opening a small euro speed shop sometime soon).
      Last edited by Autounion_77; 07-30-2010 at 12:01 AM.

    22. Member EL DRIFTO's Avatar
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      07-31-2010 07:01 PM #1422
      does anybody have the alternator behind the head bracket for sale ?
      i searched but i figured i'd ask here too

      edit: i've got a scirocco so it has to go there i think
      Last edited by EL DRIFTO; 07-31-2010 at 07:03 PM.

    23. Member ewillard's Avatar
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      08-01-2010 07:11 AM #1423

    24. Member EL DRIFTO's Avatar
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      08-01-2010 07:35 PM #1424
      i didn't see any centrifugal setups & now i'm thinking something like this for the alt:

    25. 08-05-2010 12:16 AM #1425
      i ran the alternator that way for years without any problems. if you don't have good block ventilation you get problems with oil pooling in the valvetrain though. i welded a fitting onto the tail bracket of the supercharger after this photo was taken and the problem was gone. it's funny to see pics of that car still circulating sooo long after it was built and dismantled!!!

    26. Member still_a_G's Avatar
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      08-09-2010 04:46 AM #1426
      Quote Originally Posted by TehLonz View Post
      all i have


      Where can I get that exhaust manifold heat shield?

    27. Member ryanarchy's Avatar
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      1990 Corrado 16vg60 6spd, 2005 Tundra
      08-17-2010 04:16 PM #1427
      im using a modified rs2 intake manifold and throttle body and having a hard time figuring out what to do about boost bypasswhen running 13-16 psi. any suggestions? would a vortech valve work? i dont really want to rig g60 t-bodies. any help is greatly appreciated

    28. Member toplessvw's Avatar
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      08-20-2010 01:00 PM #1428
      I am having issues locating any of the recommended manifolds for this conversion and I have a short runner I could use but have not really seen any short runner set ups in the thread any insite on this

    29. Member EL DRIFTO's Avatar
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      95 525i...96 GTI VRT...04e250
      08-21-2010 08:52 AM #1429
      works, 1 lb & the belt is 3' shorter
      359





      the 2.75" pulley i replaced the mk3 1.75" pulley with



      more













      Last edited by EL DRIFTO; 08-22-2010 at 12:14 PM. Reason: pic

    30. Member ryanarchy's Avatar
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      1990 Corrado 16vg60 6spd, 2005 Tundra
      08-30-2010 02:25 AM #1430
      im using a modified rs2 intake manifold and throttle body and having a hard time figuring out what to do about boost bypasswhen running 13-16 psi. any suggestions? would a vortech valve work? i dont really want to rig g60 t-bodies. any help is greatly appreciated
      nobody?

    31. Member EL DRIFTO's Avatar
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      08-30-2010 08:45 AM #1431
      it kind of depends on your engine management, the recirc air has to remain in the system or it may not meter correctly, all behind the CO pot

      also i'd be concerned with part throttle driveability issues with the BOV action not being stepless blend with the TB, maybe somebody else has actual exp

      i've prev used the g60 TB with my ghetto CIS setup as metered air was critical, but i've never used digi 1

    32. Member ryanarchy's Avatar
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      1990 Corrado 16vg60 6spd, 2005 Tundra
      08-30-2010 05:02 PM #1432
      it kind of depends on your engine management, the recirc air has to remain in the system or it may not meter correctly, all behind the CO pot

      also i'd be concerned with part throttle driveability issues with the BOV action not being stepless blend with the TB, maybe somebody else has actual exp

      i've prev used the g60 TB with my ghetto CIS setup as metered air was critical, but i've never used digi 1
      im running sns em-4-e. i was thinking a bov could create the issue with the lack of variable reciculation dependent on throttle postion. Is a diverter valve any different than a bov?

    33. Geriatric Member Chapel's Avatar
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      '97 BMW 328i | '10 Mazda5
      08-30-2010 05:31 PM #1433
      Quote Originally Posted by JBETZ View Post
      Quote, originally posted by sdezego »
      How is the run on those displacers coming?

      Funny you should ask.... we do have brand new magnesium displacers coming. I should have pricing up by the end of next week.

      wtf... now when you blow your g-lader, it comes with fireworks

    34. Member EL DRIFTO's Avatar
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      09-01-2010 02:16 AM #1434
      Quote Originally Posted by ryanarchy View Post
      im running sns em-4-e. i was thinking a bov could create the issue with the lack of variable reciculation dependent on throttle postion. Is a diverter valve any different than a bov?
      g60 being roots/direct displacement blower, i'd make sure it has adequate recirc flow properties

      i'd be concerned with it continuously pumping through a restriction smaller than oe, in part throttle recirc conditions

      a centrifugal can hang out in the surge line & not have any bov/recirc @ all

    35. Member LO-vw's Avatar
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      mk6 Diesel tampon
      09-05-2010 01:44 PM #1435
      what boost is expected with 68mm pulley, 2.5" boost tubes and FMIC.
      I hit 7 PSI but ive never had a g60 in anything else so idk if that is good or not.
      FS: Happich Replacement seals

      **WTB: G60 or lysholm chargers** **WTB:mk6 TDI Turbo upgrade** **WTB: mk6 power folding mirrors**

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