Hey so what's the size of the freeze plug to plug up the breather box hole?
isnt it just like the others?
Hey so what's the size of the freeze plug to plug up the breather box hole?
isnt it just like the others?
I dunno. I got one from the dealer and it was 37mm, that was way too big. So I measured the hole and it appears to be 35mm. I called Advance Auto and they listed it as 35mm. The link you sent me says 36mm. If the one from Advance doesn't work I'll order the 36 and report back.
hey guys i didn't see any good recommendations on whats a good return line would be when using a 9A 2.0L 16v block (with a G60 ofcourse)?
do you guys recommend i tap the front of the pan or the rear of the pan?
does anyone here recommend any other return line other then the stock G60 return line?
what size bung do you guys recommend i weld on the oil pan? (obviously the bung will go above the oil level, near the top of the oil pan so that the oil can easily return to the pan without any back pressure)
thank you for all the help
I just made a hole thru the threaded hole on the front of the block, it's in the same position as on the G60 block. I'm sure it's been mentioned at least a couple times in this discussion. Thread size is the same that the stock return line fitting uses so just be sure to not go any bigger than necessary. I used a tap and WD-40 to clean out the hole after drilling thru.
I will also be drilling that spot as from reading many threads on it thats the best spot .
I did remember someone posting about not wishing he dropped his compression on his build after it was done and said as well, thats what got me exploring the possibility of running a reg / close too comp. set up . From countless people who have done this set up with a g60 and dropped compression there getting 6-9psi at best, which to me seems like you should be able to maybe drop comp 1 point only at max and using more motor. Again nothing for sure no numbers that I have been able to find yet to prove the idea is practical. I have 2 9a's so i might be willing to try it out
My thoughts on the motor would to be get it cleaned, refreshed and balanced. Then use either the AT cams or the dual exhaust cams, I'll prob drop the comp by 1 point using a aba gasket and use arp hardware to keep it together. The rest basically is the same, done a million times before with a FMIC and see what happens
It looks like the only place to get a copper plug without buying a block-off (I'm sure some vendors may be willing to part with just the plug) is to buy Dorman part #02523. It is a 35.21mm plug. At this dimension, it provides .008" oversize, which is just about right for an interference force fit. I'll be ordering one of those from somewhere.
So Napa, Advance and Autozone can't get a 35mm plug in stores but Advance online can ship it to you. I got one and popped it in. Works perfect.
Last edited by still_a_G; 12-22-2010 at 08:44 PM.
If you hang more weight with a custom intake that takes off to the driver direction or a custom liquid air IC, you will need more tail support.
Be sure to run at least two tubes and three bump hoses from the outlet side of the compressor to you inter-cooler.
If you are running a liquid air be sure that the cooling core is fastened to the engine and moves with the engine. If it is hooked to the uni-body this can cause issues as the engine moves and the body does not.
Now if you are running a silencer package like our old discontinued set up you will need a tail bracket. The silencer configuration puts the t-body and air intake at the inlet side of the compressor and going in the driver side direction
One slick way to set up a tail bracket is to use two adjustable rod end links. One can go to the engine and one going down, this will triangulate the tail end and support in nicely. Drill and tap the inlet plate for one link end and you can get creative on how to get the other end to the engine. I've seen one guy hook the engine end to our billet breather plate.
The main thing when you do any type of tail bracket, home built or the one that we made with our silencer package. Be sure that when you tighten the bracket it is not pushing pulling or distorting the compressor. Hope this helps.
Last edited by JBETZ; 01-13-2011 at 03:02 PM.
One is the original prototype... billet tig welded beaded ends all aluminum tubing, very nice.
Feel free to email me if interested firstname.lastname@example.org
Hi. I am new to this forum. This thread forged me to do my corrado 16vg60. I started my project on december. I will make a list with the mods and I will post some photos. I want to ask some things for my project but I will do it later. Please correct me if I do any mistake in the future. Just wanted to say hi and thanks for this usefull thread.
Wow this thread has got to be one of the best on the Tex. Hope this post is not too long or boring
On the topic of compression; when the knock sensing systems came out VW claimed they could handle up to 12/1 compression ratio.
Anyone know if there is a chart relating boost to static compression ratios? Isnt boost just a variable compression ratio?
Anyway, 8 psi seems to the max threshold of boost for a stock, non intercooled engine. Not sure what 8 psi translates into static compression or if that is close to 12/1. But what I do know is that when I took 50 thousandths off of a 10/1 engine compression GTI head, that we ended up with 225 to 235 psi in all cylinders. I assumed 225 in each cylinder was around 11.5/1 comp ratio. I ran that engine on super unleaded with a Rocco 16v brain and knock sensing system, external oil cooler, adjustable cam sprocket, and never heard a knock. In fact it could have used more timing advance than the 16v brain allowed, but it never knocked. Not on the hottest day. Only time I did hear a slight knock was when my girl put crappy costco gas in it so beware.
Then the G-60 arrived. It's 8 valve compression was upped to 190-195 psi, adjustable cam sprocket, 180 degree fan switch and thermostat, stock 78mm pulley, and some basic but VERY effective intercooler system tweaks. That engine yanked hard and both charger and engine are still in great shape. I remember racing an RX-7 to the top of this ten mile long crazy hill and at the top I rested my hand on the intake manifold and it was lukewarm..not even close to hot! With a stock G60 intercooler.... If anyone like me does not want or cant afford an FMIC, I have some awesome tips for maximizing the stock G60 IC system.
My present setup is a 9a (2.0 16v) with 200 psi in each cylinder which I believe is real close to the factory 10.8/1 compression ratio. Herby53 said in another thread that the stock 78mm pulley on a 9a will produce less than 8 psi. Stock 1.8t's produce around 8 psi with a 9.5/1 ratio in the real world of bad gas, jiffy lubes and teenage drivers... Haha. And the 1.8t intercooler is very similar to the stock G60 unit.
So this all leads me to think that a stock 9a with 6-8 psi (stock pulley) using only supreme fuel with low temp switch, thermostat and properly intercooled is more than doable. Only mods will be ARP head studs and an upgraded standard headgasket. I still will worry about the stock pistons but according to some they are good up to 16 psi.
To get accurate data I'm using an intake charge pyrometer and wideband A/F guage and maybe an exhaust temp guage. There is a road that goes from sea level to 14,000 feet to test effects of altitude using a digital altimeter. Once this engine is tested the plan is to then replace the stock pulley with a 71mm just to test the limits of the theory. As far as I know Jerome Dik is the only one that would have similar info. As far as i know.....
Of course this is theory and until the engine is running in the real world its hard to say how it will run. Especially if the 16v does not run as cool as the 8v G60 did. I beleive this is the key; Proper cooling and intercooling combined with an external oil cooler should widen that margin of error.
Just in case I'm waaaaay off with this theory I did buy the ABA thicker head gasket along with my 16V G60 kit and boost tubes from BBM, The plan is also to buy forged pistons in the future.
But then theres always h20/alcohol injection too??....another topic.
Anyone wanna chime in?? Thanks for any input.
And by the way I would like to thank Johnny G60 Master Betz for bringing back the 16v G60 kit!! As a former employee of BBM I can tell everyone that John puts everything he has into the parts he makes. His knowledge and metalurgical skillz are insane!! And running BBM effectively would drive anyone insane!! (just kidding JB) haha. AND bringing back the most pain in the ass kit we sold with the most possible ways a customer can screw it up is a big win for all of us.
Thanks JB, keep tearing it up....
Hey Kain good to see you still working on this. Been reading and searching for info on this still myself. Found a few good discussions on stock IC numbers and CR + boost.
CR and boost
With the stock ic one seems going by math and some investigating by Jbetz:
I had a very sharp engineer friend of mine, from Intended Acceleration work with me...now many years ago on this inter-coolers capacity.
We came up with about 280bhp, non sustained.
I've had good luck with the sock unit running up to 240+whp.
For most guys on the 8v running a g-lader it is plenty sufficient.
Hope this helps
For me that`s where I wanted to be with my set up and so happens I have both types of g60 IC units so I`m happy with that.
Now the big topic of CR and specifically g60 boost. Have had a few people say that there running higher CR rates and boosted applications like Prof315:
I would have absolutely no fear running up to 15psi on a 10 to 1 motor, oh wait we are running 17 psi on a 10 to 1 1.8T on 87 octane. No knock sensor, just some common sense in the tuning.
as well as mrkrad:
Some dude up new gruven ran an RD block 1.8 10:1 with a 68mm pulley and put down 180/180 to the wheels. junkyard block. There is not a lot of room for error in a hot environment or low octane which ever you choose.
G60 Carat was nice to link a old post that had a formula on effective CR rates with boost:
+1 is (bar or atmosphere at sea level)
((boost psi / 14.7) + 1) x motor compression = effective compression. Then to find a rough hp output you times the motors effective compression by 10.8 (hp per CR ratio)
The idea to play with higher CR and boost seems to have always been there but maybe old main stream thinking has always said it was not possible with the tech at the time who knows but a few have tried and have had success.
I personally am going to try it using a stock CR 9a 2.0 as well running a 70mm or 68mm perhaps. Using the formula above and using some feed back of ones that have done a standard 16vg60 build that at best they seem to get around 12psi ( avg was more like 9 or 10 seems like ) using a 68mm pulley I get
12psi \ 14.7 = 0.816 + 1 = 1.816 X 10.8 = 19.613 (effective compression ) x 10.8 = 211.81hp which seems to match or come close to the hp seen by those that do this conversion but also have done cams, bigger injectors and other mods. So you start adding the hp gains of those items on top of this higher CR it starts getting feasible to see 240ish hp numbers. Mind you will have to completely rebuild your engine head to toe and use good hardware, as well as use 93 + oct. gas to help this bad boy run smoothly. Guess my questions are more on what is the max psi this thing can handle and what mods are not going to play well with this idea.
I`d like to get cams 260,268 ones, run #42 injectors, 3.5 FPR using a sirocco 16v exhaust header with TT down pipe. Would getting the charger ported or the head for that fact PP help or hurt a high CR build? That's kinda where I haven't found answers yet so not sure if i should get that done. I mean in NA cars and low CR high boost applications I see the reason but taking a g60 and putting it on a 16v from 8v basically doubling volume that it is designed for is better flow and such with a pp going to help as it does with the other applications?
Anyways that's my ramblings on the topic to date.........still doing the bloody body resto. and not even close to the engine part yet but it is good though's while grinding, blasting, swearing at Satan's snott stuff. God I need a
Wow finally found some info Jeroen Dik's 16vg60 ( helps if you spell it right )
VW Corrado G60
( Roughly translated from Dutch to English )
Geflowede / edited cil.kop 2.0-16v
large valves, special valve springs + dishes
290 degree camshafts with mechanical tappets on the inlet and outlet
larger oil pump
All parts balanced / balanced
special engine oil pan with baffles and splash plate
custom intake manifold with injectors 8 VWMotorsport
WeberMarelli injection, ignition distributor charge
Increased benz.druk, with 2 high pressure benz.pompen
G-charger modified / upgraded high-speed and geflowed
2 intakes on G-charger, with two carbon air boxes.
Drive, Pully G-toothed feeder approx 62mm
Large Intercooler rally wave
aluminum water cooler
Traction Control with Launch Control
AP synthermetaalkoppeling 200mm clutch / flywheel with special pressure group
and some more........
We know the 16v head is a custom creation by Jeroen Dik himself, mainly because he told us so. We also know the bulk of the engine was modified to match the work put into the head. Included in the insanely long list of engine parts added to the balanced and blueprinted 1.9L powerhouse are: Crane cams, Mahle pistons wrapped with Mahle piston rings, larger Schrick valves with matching valve springs and retainers, adjustable pulleys, mechanical cam followers, Weber Marelli fuel injection with eight 260cc injectors—two per cylinder—a Webber Marelli ignition system, a pair of Bosch high-pressure fuel pumps leading to a custom-fabricated fuel rail, and Crane adjustable cam gears. Not that that’s everything. Aside from the Jetex after-cat exhaust, and the custom-routed Rallye Golf intercooler, Jeroen also custom-fabricated an exhaust manifold and oil pan to add to the performance of the now tooth-belt-driven G60 compressor. Adding up the parts, the total comes to a hefty 353 hp at 8,100 rpm.
Still nothing on CR rates though but he has a company now www.JDEngineering.nl think I might ask him what he thinks....who knows he might just tell me.
how much are we talking here in turning them down?
EDIT: Could I just use a 144 rod with the 8.5:1 pistons from integrated engineering made for the 16v since the deck height and stroke are the same between the 16v engine and the G60 Engine?
Last edited by spoileda4; 05-04-2011 at 01:00 AM.
Volkswagen's are just buckets for all your money to go into with -100% ROI
quick question for Digifunk-one pros:
I got a SNS stg5 chip cut for an 8v g60 with 42lb injectors. Is it ok to use it on a 16V setup? What is the difference, if any, between 8v and 16v chips?
also, I'll be using 42lb Lucas/Delphi injectors. PN 01D030B. Same ones Racetronix sells. Anyone has any experience with those on their 16vG60 setup?
8v chip might not be calibrated for the extra air the 16v will let in so could run lean.
Those 42lb injectors low or high impedance? Im using the ford ones as they are everywhere and cheap.
aba bottom will work just is taller then the pg and 9a blocks and you will need play with your comp ratio or pistons iirc. its all on the first page bra
FS: Happich Replacement seals
**WTB: G60 or lysholm chargers** **WTB:mk6 TDI Turbo upgrade** **WTB: mk6 power folding mirrors**
thanks for the response above, any recommendations on where to get oil from
(oil feed line)
1) the back of the 16v head close to the coolant temp sensor
2)low pressure oil sensor, include a "T" there
3) high pressure oil sensor, include a "T" there
i am leaning more towards the high oil pressure add a "T" there as its closer to the oil pump? any good suggestions?
i got some great advice from a friend on here
"High pressure switch is too high of pressure (to have your oil feed line attached to it) and may result in too high of pressure going to the charger. Low side it the side that oils the top and and the same circuit that was on the side of the head on the 8v. iirc, the 165v just has a port on the oil filter flange for that."
what are everyone's thoughts? and more importantly where can i read about this? i flipped through the Corrado G60 bentley and didn't find this or any explanation on the different oil pressures in the motor, i am not saying its wrong i just want to educate myself further
thanks for everyones help
I finished my 16vg60 project. I fired it up and it works very good at idle (my 8v g60 didn't).
ABF engine stock internals
9.5 comp ratio (2 metal headgaskets)
G lader fully rebuilded 20mm belt, rs ported
Audi S3 380cc injectors
Short intake manifold
4 to 1 exhaust manifold and 60mm exhaust system
Custom twin G intake (soon an SWG one)
Front mount intercooler
Oil cooler (stock water oil cooler removed)
Walbro fuel pump
Fuel pressure regulator
I have 78mm pulley but I will have to decide which pulley to use 68, 70 or 72mm
I have stock chip.
I have to ask BBM or SNS?
I emailed SNS several times but they didn't reply to my massages
BBM answered immediately and told me that a custom stage 4 chip will be the one.