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    Thread: The Autocross Information Thread

    1. 01-28-2005 05:44 PM #1
      It's about time this forum had a thread for common questions and answers. Feel free to add specific information or links on autocross or autocrossing VWs..

      What is autocross?
      Autocross, at its essence, is very simple. It's motorsports for the masses. Anyone can come out, with virtually any car, and test their driving skills in a safe, controlled manner. My favorite description of what exactly it is comes from Dennis Grant, one of the founders of the Street Modified class: "The basic concept is simple: take a large paved area. Describe, on it's surface, a race course, marked off with traffic cones and flour lines. Place a timer at the start and finish, and one car at a time, drive through as fast as you possibly can. Hit a cone, and get two seconds added to your time. The track is never the same twice from event to event. There are no practice runs. We run rain or shine. In Formula One terms, an autocross is like bringing your team to a track (which was completely torn down and rebuilt from the last time you were here); you get three qualifying laps, from standing starts (each one!) and on cold tires (no tire warmers allowed). The next day, you do the same thing, but in the opposite direction, and then the track owner rips up the track and starts building a new one. 6 runs total [generally 3 runs for one day events], best one each day counts. This all makes for a sport that is very different from any other style of motorsport. On the whole, it is less expensive and less dangerous than other forms, as there is very little chance of crashing into something hard, and speeds tend to be slower. On the other hand, it demands a very high level of aggressiveness and driver precision - you have to be instantly fast, and everything must go right right away. There is just no margin for error.
      Races are won and lost by thousandths of a second, and the mental pressure can be enormous."


      Is it dangerous?
      Just like any other form of motorsports, Solo2 has some element of risk. However, the SCCA has specific rules defined to make an event as safe as possible and, in general, Solo2 is at least as safe as driving on the street. Usually, there are no more than 3 cars on a course at a given time, and that's only when the course allows sufficient separation. Workers are positioned around the course with fire extinguishers and red flags to inform cars when there's a problem. Courses are designed so that if a car does lose control, or spin, there's nothing even close to it that could be hit. Spectators are only allowed in certain areas around a course. Kids under 12 are not allowed in hot areas, which include grid, prestart, course and impound. Be aware that other organizations have differing rules, and many are not as safe as an SCCA event.


      What is ProSolo?
      ProSolo is a national series run by the SCCA. Where most Solo2 events run one car at a time, a ProSolo runs two cars head-to-head on mirror image courses with a drag strip start and a Christmas tree. Reaction times are part of the times. Each car gets 4 runs on each side and the best run on each side is totaled for their time. ProSolo also has a Super Challenge at the end of each event. Each car in the Challenge has a dial-in similar to bracket drag racing. In a given round, the two cars get a run on each side, whoever wins advances.
      Example map: http://www.wincom.net/trog/new...e.JPG


      Don't expect much in the beginning..
      Out on the street, we all think we're the best drivers. And who wouldn't? There's no evidence to the contrary, so we get to think whatever we want. Often someone new checks out an autocross and just thinks it doesn't look like that big of a deal. Driving is a lot different than watching. Once you get to the start line, and there's a big sea of cones in front of you, things change. For those of you who may be nervous or a bit intimidated already (hopefully you're not!) the next couple sentences are not for you. For the street racer or canyon cruiser or spirited street driver, read on. Here's the first step. Check your ego in at the gate. Assume you can't drive, because chances are, compared to a seasoned autocrosser, you can't. This isn't a hit or a knock on your driving skills, because we all start out at this point. We all think we're the greatest, and then we get out there on course, see our times, and realize we're not. The best things you can do is listen to the experienced people around you, pay attention during the course walk, and take advice. Your goals for a first autocross should be to stay on course and, if you can do that, improve your time by the end of the day. At this point, the car you drive, or what modifications it has won't really matter. In fact, having a modified car will only hurt as it may mask things you may be doing slowly. The primary limiting factor will be the driver. As you get better, you will be able to truly take advantage of making the car better. A couple of mantras you will probably hear repeated in one form or another, but won't really "get" for awhile. "Slow down to go faster." The beginner usually tries to be too fast in the slow parts of a course, and too slow in the fast stuff. "In like a lamb, out like a lion." Generally, late apexing is the only answer.


      Walking the course
      Your goal when walking the course is twofold. To commit the entire course to memory so you can go through it in your head at "full speed", and to choose the line through the course that you think will be the fastest and be able to do it without thinking. So walk the course twice. Generally try to focus on what you're doing and have enough clear area ahead of you so that you can see what the course will look like when you drive it. Break the course up into sections and try to analyze the entire section as a whole to determine where you want the car to be at each turn. Memorize it, play it back through your head, and go!


      SCCA Solo2 Classing Structure
      Cars are classed in the SCCA first by modifications and second by the cars' set of traits and capabilities. Each ruleset is strict; in other words, if it doesn't say that you CAN do it, than you CAN NOT do it and remain legal for the class. The general progression of levels of modifications is as follows: Stock, Street Touring, Street Prepared, Street Modified, Prepared, Modified. Note that this is not a linear progression. Everything, for instance, that is legal for Street Prepared is not necessarily legal for Prepared. Once a car is placed in one of these categories, its placed in a specific class along with other cars that perform similarly. Example cars for each class are below.


      Why the rules are the way they are; or why even adding 1psi of boost must be considered the same as adding 20 psi.
      The ruleset is very stringent. To people new to autocross or motorsports in general this may seem antithetical. "Why does having a chip place me in Street Modified, its only a software map and I'm still underpowered!" or "I have a different transmission in my car, but it doesn't really help that much, so why am I placed in such a hard class?" are common questions. The ruleset for each class has to cover all cars. Further, the rules must be able to place cars properly based on the car's potential as it would be if it were modified TO THE LIMIT OF THE RULES. This is important. Changes in stock boost level, for example, are illegal in Stock, Street Touring, and Street Prepared. It would be an impossible task to set boost level maximums and actually be able to control or check levels at an event. The alternative is either allowing unlimited boost (which is what Street Modified does) or allowing no boost changes (SP and lower). Note that the below listings are not exhaustive. For complete rule details see the SCCA Rulebook. This is just a general guide.

      Stock
      Allowed Modifications:
      Driver harness
      Roll bar or roll cage (SCCA specs)
      Shock absorbers with the same mounting type
      Trailer hitch
      Wheels with the same diameter and width as stock (i.e. a GTI 337/20th must use a 18x7.5", it cannot use a 17" from a GTI)
      Front swaybar
      Brake pads
      Air filter (not intake)
      Tires (anything D.O.T. legal including R compounds)
      Cat-back exhaust

      Classes and example/common cars for each class
      Super Stock: Corvette Z06, Viper, 996 911, 93+ RX-7
      A Stock: C4 Corvette, Mitsubishi Evolution, Subaru WRX STi, 00-04 Honda S2000, E46 BMW M3, Porsche Boxster S
      B Stock: Mazda RX-8, Nissan 350Z, E36 BMW M3, MR2 Turbo, Porsche 968 M030
      C Stock: Mazda Miata 1.8L, Toyota MR2 Spyder, Porsche 914
      D Stock: Integra Type-R, Audi S4, VW GTI/Jetta 24v VR6, R32, Lexus IS300, BMW 325/328/330
      E Stock: Toyota MR2 non-turbo, 90-97 Mazda Miata, Porsche 924
      F Stock: Camaro V8, Mustang V8
      G Stock: Celica GT, Mini Cooper S, VW Corrado VR6, GTI/Golf/Jetta 1.8T, 16v
      H Stock: Mini Cooper, BMW 318


      Street Touring

      STS - four seat vehicles, maximum displacement of 3.1L NA and small displacement forced induction sedans
      Allowed Modifications:
      Shocks, springs, swaybars, strut bars/braces
      Wheels up to 7.5" width
      Tires up to 225 width
      Street tires with at least 140 treadwear rating
      Steering wheels
      Short shift kits
      Fully upholstered seats
      Pedals
      Body kits, spoilers, wings, removal of factory trim
      Brake pads, rotors, lines
      Intake, cat back exhaust, header
      Emissions legal engine management
      Underdrive pulleys
      Relocation of battery

      STX - 2WD vehicles may use any LSD, engines up to 5.1L NA, 2.0L forced induction.

      Allowed Modifications:
      STS modifications carry over
      Any LSD for 2WD vehicles
      Wheels up to 8" width
      Tires up to 245 width

      Example cars:
      STS: Honda Civic, Dodge Neon, Toyota Celica, Mini Cooper, VW GTI/Golf/Jetta 1.8T, Jetta/GTI 16v, Corrado VR6, Audi A4 non-Quattro
      STX: Honda Civic, Mini Cooper S, Subaru WRX, Integra Type R, E30 BMW M3


      Street Prepared
      Allowed Modifications:
      The allowed modifications in SP are extensive, the following is a general summary.
      Anything allowed in Stock
      Update/Backdate rules for any cars on the same line in the rulebook
      Any wheel and tire width
      Shocks, springs, swaybars, strut bars/braces
      Camber plates
      Any fully padded seats, steering wheels, pedals, roll cages up to 8 points of attachment
      Fuel cells allowed with certain qualifications
      Suspension bushings
      Limited Slip Differentials
      Carburetion, fuel injection, intake manifolds, intake, exhaust manifolds, exhaust
      Motor mounts
      Clutch/flywheel
      Overbore to .0472" with oversize pistons
      Balancing
      Port matching, milling
      Pulleys
      Ignition system

      Classes and example/popular cars for each class:
      ASP: C5 Corvette, Lotus Elan, 996 911, 93+ RX-7
      BSP: C4 Corvette, E36 BMW M3
      CSP: Honda CRX, Toyota MR2 Spyder, Mazda Miata, Mazda RX-3
      DSP: E36 BMW 325/323/328, Lexus IS300, E46 BMW 330, Fiat X1/9, Acura Integra GS-R, Mini Cooper S
      ESP: Camaro V8, Mustang V8, WRX, WRX STi, Mitsubishi Evo
      FSP: Honda Civic 92+, VW Scirocco 8v, VW Rabbit/Jetta 75-84


      Street Modified/2

      Allowable Modifications:
      Anything in Stock, Street Touring, or Street Prepared
      Drivetrain is unlimited except: engine from same company as manufacturer (Honda/Acura, VW/Audi swaps are OK)
      Max displacements:
      FI: 3L OHC, 4L pushrod
      NA: 6L
      Rotary: 1.5L
      Suspension is unlimited except: Must use original suspension attachment points
      Brakes unlimited
      Rear passenger seat can be removed
      Hood/front fenders can be changed
      Firewall, roof, doors, rear quarter panels, floor pans, trunk lid must be stock
      Minimum weights:
      SM:
      FWD: 1800 lbs NA, 1900 lbs FI
      RWD: 2200 lbs NA, 2400 lbs FI
      AWD: 2400 lbs NA, 2600 lbs FI
      SM2:
      FWD: 1500 lbs NA, 1600 lbs FI
      RWD: 1900 lbs NA, 2100 lbs FI
      AWD: 2100 lbs NA, 2300 lbs FI

      Common cars:
      SM: Any sedan/coupe with four seats (not sports-car based) such as VW Scirocco, Golf, Jetta, Passat, Dodge Neon, Honda Civic, BMW 3 series (including M3), Supra, WRX, Mitsubishi Evo, Talon/Eclipse, etc, etc
      SM2: All two seaters/sports cars such as Corvettes, MR2, 911, Z cars, Honda CRX, Miata, or an underweight or over displacement SM car. All Lotus are excluded.


      Autocross specific wheel philosophy
      The general, most common rule of thumb in autocross is get the most rubber possible down at all 4 corners. While there are some minor exceptions to this rule, it almost always holds true. Wheel size will help you do this. Lets start with diameter. On the street, we all run big wheels because it looks cool. Drag racers tends to run small, wide wheels and tires with lots of sidewall. Several factors play into choosing a wheel diameter: weight, gearing, and fitment. The smaller the wheel, obviously, the lighter it is. The less unsprung mass, the better, so this is a good thing, and favors a smaller diameter. The shorter the wheel/tire combo, the shorter your gearing will be as well. So if you have a low-powered car, or your gearing is already very tall, a smaller diameter wheel will help you get a better gear ratio. Suddenly, you might not have to be shifting to third in a short straight. On the flipside, if you have a car with very short gearing (the STi comes to mind), a taller wheel/tire combo could help you stretch that out. The last main factor is fitment and tire size. Make sure you have an appropriate tire size for that wheel, and make sure it will fit on your car, clear your brakes, and not cause any tremendous problems.

      As two examples, there are the high powered ASP/BSP cars, and there are the low powered ASP/CSP/FSP cars. The Corvette's of ASP/BSP want as much rubber as possible under their high powered, relatively heavy cars. So they run 17x11s or 17x12s with 315 or 335 width tires. The ASP Corvettes may also run 18s up front, allowing even less sidewall for better turn-in. The BMW M3s of BSP and even the E36 DSP cars are moving to 18s with 285 series tires and very short sidewalls. The low-powered, smaller, more nimble cars of ASP/CSP/FSP have none of these weight or power problems. So they all run 13" wheels that give them the shortest gearing, and the least amount of weight. Chances are they couldn't heat up a 275+ width tire anyway, so the 225/235 R comounds that Hoosier and Kumho offer are just fine.

      Now on to wheel width. Let's say we've decided we're going to run 13" wheels on our SP cars. We have tires available that give us an 8-9" recommended width. What do we do? Well, the common thing to do here is to move to the wider side of the spectrum. The more width the wheel has that the same tire is on, the more width of the tire will be put down, so the wider the contact patch, to a point.

      Of course, in a stock class, your wheel choice is limited to what came with the car, in which case you simply go with the lightest thing you can find, and then stuff the widest tire you can on it. C Stock Miata's usually have 225s on their 5.5" wide wheels.


      BFB info
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1362998


      Links:
      http://www.scca.org
      http://www.tirerack.com
      http://solo.wdcr-scca.org
      http://www.sfrscca.org/solo2/
      http://www.autox4u.com
      http://www.nedivsolo2.org
      http://www.sedivsolo2.org
      http://www.solo2.cendiv-scca.org/
      http://www.solotime.com
      http://www.solo2.com
      http://www.solo2.org
      http://www.soloperformance.com
      http://www.sccaforums.com
      http://www.autocross.com/evolution/

      Add more good information!


      Modified by Mhyrr at 6:30 PM 1-28-2005


    2. 02-01-2005 12:35 PM #2
      Lots of great info in the Tech Files here:
      http://www.conecrazy.org/

    3. 02-14-2005 06:56 PM #3
      2-20-05 Gainesville Road Course Solo 2

      a bunch of car clubs will be at this one...lots of VW's hopefully...


    4. Member AutoXMan's Avatar
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      04-13-2005 12:08 PM #4
      More allowances in STX:

      STX:
      High-flow cat (Turbo back allowed)
      Any brake rotor of equal or larger size.
      Big brake kits (including caliper), as long as they attach at original mounts.


    5. Member AutoXMan's Avatar
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      04-13-2005 12:23 PM #5
      Also:

      How do I class my car? (SCCA and clubs that use SCCA rules)
      For starters, take a look at a worksheet like this one:
      http://www.scca-milwaukee.org/...n.pdf

      This will give you a basic idea of which class you go into: Stock, Street Touring, Street Prepared, Street Modified, Prepared, or Modified. The lists above are also good, but this chart will help quite a bit.

      Then read the rules pertaining to that class. You can find the online rulebook here:
      http://www.scca.com/_filelibra...s.pdf

      You may find that there are other items you have that are illegal for that class - or you might get some ideas on what to optimized to better yourself in a given class. For instance - you put on a rear swaybar and that's all you did. That puts you in Street Touring or Street Prepared. Well, those classes also allow camber adjusters, coilovers, etc. So you can take advantages of the rules in that class instead of trying to bump down into stock.

      Lastly, refer to Appendix A of the rulebook. Find the class you are in (say, Street Prepared) and then look for your car. If you have, say - an RX8 you will find it listed under 'Class B'. So you are competing in B, Street Prepared. Or BSP for short.

      Note: Stock class is NOT SLOW. It is relatively cheap, but that plus R compound tires make the class extremely competitive. I daresay that Street Touring is a generally slower class. Some regions may offer 'Street Tire' classes. These will allow you to run stock class rules with street tires (or SP, SM rules). Check with your region to find out what they do.


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      05-10-2005 02:49 AM #6
      if your car came with 4 seats but currently has only 2, does this mean SM2 or SM1 is ok?

    7. Member Michael Blue's Avatar
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      08-29-2005 04:45 PM #7
      Quote, originally posted by ThatGuy »
      if your car came with 4 seats but currently has only 2, does this mean SM2 or SM1 is ok?


      Rear seats may be removed in SM1. The vehicle only had to be produced as a 4 seater.


    8. 10-05-2005 03:50 PM #8
      Lots of great info here, I am happy to be a new member today!

    9. 11-11-2005 09:05 PM #9
      Great info here guys. Very well done. Nice PDF on how to classify your car for auto-x'ing..

      Thanks for putting this together......Concept.:R


    10. 12-18-2005 08:40 PM #10
      man that was some great info... i plan on getting into autoxing when i go to college next year and this realy gave me the heads up!!! thanx

    11. Member performula's Avatar
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      01-17-2006 03:06 PM #11
      Great information. Are the SCCA rulebooks free or for purchase only?

    12. Member performula's Avatar
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      01-17-2006 03:40 PM #12
      Quote, originally posted by Mhyrr »

      Wheels with the same diameter and width as stock (i.e. a GTI 337/20th must use a 18x7.5", it cannot use a 17" from a GTI)

      I'm not questioning you at all, but I was under the impression that an option wheel (and size) could be used?

      Example: I have a GTI that came with 16" wheels. I can race in Stock if I use either A) VW BBS 18x7.5, B) VW 17x7 Arietta, C) stock 16" wheel, or D) either of the mentioned sizes wheel in SSR Competition.

      (Because the wheels were offered options to me) Confusing?


      Modified by performula at 4:44 PM 1-17-2006


    13. 01-24-2006 08:08 PM #13
      http://www.SwiftMotorsports.com

      I know they have a pretty heavy autoX following


    14. 01-24-2006 11:34 PM #14
      Quote, originally posted by performula »
      I'm not questioning you at all, but I was under the impression that an option wheel (and size) could be used?

      Example: I have a GTI that came with 16" wheels. I can race in Stock if I use either A) VW BBS 18x7.5, B) VW 17x7 Arietta, C) stock 16" wheel, or D) either of the mentioned sizes wheel in SSR Competition.

      (Because the wheels were offered options to me) Confusing?


      12.4 Standard Part
      ...could have been ordered with the car, installed on the factory production line...

      Were they dealer optional, or could you choose the different wheels standard from the factory? That's the answer. Dealer option wheels are out unless you could get them installed at the factory, on the car as it were delivered.


    15. 01-25-2006 12:41 AM #15
      Actually in this case, I believe the distinction is actually that a 337 or 20th is a package, so you could use the wheels, but you'd have to add the entire package.. including the seats, transmission and all other associated parts, etc, etc..

    16. Member xpalendocious's Avatar
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      03-02-2006 02:32 AM #16
      I have a 1989 GTI that was originally a 16v with 14" rims.
      It now has a 2.8 12v vr6 and 15" rims and a Koni coilover suspension.
      Other mods include:
      Corrado Front seats
      No Back seats
      2.5" exhuast
      poly bushings
      11" brakes (stock are 9.4)
      K&N panel filter

      im sure there is more, someday soon it will be turbo'ed.

      Would I be Streed Mod 2?


    17. 03-02-2006 12:33 PM #17
      Quote, originally posted by xpalendocious »
      I have a 1989 GTI that was originally a 16v with 14" rims.
      It now has a 2.8 12v vr6 and 15" rims and a Koni coilover suspension.
      Other mods include:
      Corrado Front seats
      No Back seats
      2.5" exhuast
      poly bushings
      11" brakes (stock are 9.4)
      K&N panel filter

      im sure there is more, someday soon it will be turbo'ed.

      Would I be Streed Mod 2?


      SM, because it's a 4 seater and you're not over any displacement limits that would bump you to SM2.
      in SM you *are* allowed to remove the rear seats.

    18. 08-21-2006 05:14 AM #18
      read it , its great thread, great information.

    19. 09-09-2006 05:13 AM #19
      I just looked at the 2006 rules, and see no mention of the new 2006/2007 GTI 2.0T FSI. What class would this be in? I have heard GS and thinking STX?

      Has anyone tried these yet? How well did you do? I have DSG in mine, am thinking it should not do too bad.


    20. 02-07-2007 07:00 PM #20
      Can anyone help me on my mitsubishi 3000GT GT? It's a FWD and all stock so far, i couldn't find what class it's in and im interested to know.

    21. 02-08-2007 08:21 AM #21
      for future referance scca autocross rules can be found here http://scca.org/Solo/Index.asp...0|070&~=

      the 3000GT non-turbo is listed as GS and the 3000GT Turbo is listed as FS

      there should always be someone at any autocross event that can class your car for you all you have to do is show up and race


    22. 02-13-2007 12:48 AM #22
      thank you, thanks for the info, i was having trouble understanding this clearly.

    23. 02-13-2007 12:54 AM #23
      can somebody help me on my 1994 celica gt? i'm having problem finding it's rank, i know it's in g-stock but is that it? all i have on it is exhaust and 18x7.5 rims(i don't know if that makes a difference in my ranking), otherwise everything is stock.

    24. Member performula's Avatar
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      03-23-2007 12:24 AM #24
      Quote, originally posted by turbosprentice »
      can somebody help me on my 1994 celica gt? i'm having problem finding it's rank, i know it's in g-stock but is that it? all i have on it is exhaust and 18x7.5 rims(i don't know if that makes a difference in my ranking), otherwise everything is stock.

      If the exhaust is cat back you are fine; however, the 18" wheels were not available from the factory.


    25. 04-16-2007 11:18 AM #25
      what stops someone from being dishonest about mods, for instance if the car has cams and they dont really effect idle, how do they know you have cams?

    26. 04-16-2007 01:39 PM #26
      there is no way to know if someone is honest about mods or not exept that anouther competitor can protest a part or potetially illegal mod and unless you can prove that the mods in question are legal for your class you will loose your trophy and have to pay far the dissasymly/reassymbly of your car.

      as far as most local events they are just for fun and a simple protest to something obvious may mean that you have to run a class or two high than you thoght, but most small or insignificant mods will be overlooked unless you turn out to be a national level driver in wich case they might protest anyways to move you out of ther class.


      Modified by meangreen18T at 10:42 AM 4-16-2007


    27. 04-17-2007 12:33 PM #27
      you're cuteee

    28. Member CDN_MKV's Avatar
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      05-13-2007 06:25 AM #28
      edit: nm... looks like the MKV is G-S and DSP (mod dependant)

      JJ


      Modified by CDN_MKV at 3:51 AM 5-13-2007

      2010 GTI (CSG 6spd 4dr)
      2008 911 GT3

    29. 06-05-2007 07:45 PM #29
      I was thinking of eventually swapping a 16v head onto my 2.0l 8v engine and was wondering what class that would put me in (just assume stock otherwise, I'm only curious about the particular mod)

    30. 06-05-2007 10:17 PM #30
      your probably looking at SM...


      Quote, originally posted by XclerksX »
      I was thinking of eventually swapping a 16v head onto my 2.0l 8v engine and was wondering what class that would put me in (just assume stock otherwise, I'm only curious about the particular mod)

    31. 06-11-2007 06:56 AM #31
      I have a question about my car. I have a 4 door 1983 VW rabbit. I have upgraded it with parts from my wrecked 83 gti. I converted it to a manual tranny and put in the stock gti engine/tranny. I put the front and rear sway bars on it. It also has the gti front seats, steering wheel and vented front rotors that the gti was originaly equiped with. Also the front air dam off the gti. I am wondering how it would work with the solo2 rules. Could it be considered stock? Or because it has engine/tranny and sway bars that it did not come with, would it be in a higher class? I understand the rest of the modification restrictions, just not quite sure about the gti stuff I added. Like if I say that the gti stuff I added is considered stock, then with the stress bars, urethane engine and suspension bushings I added would put me in the Street Touring (STS) class. I hope somone can help me out, I just want to know how this would all work out. Thank you.

    32. 06-11-2007 07:25 AM #32
      in order to be stock you need to have "all" of the optinons/configurations that the gti came frome the factory with. So if the gti only came in 2door and you have a 4 door your car could never be considered a stock gti. If your car was completly upgraded to factory gti statusyou caould be sonsidered stock then add/subtract to get into st_ calsses.
      However, I belive your car would probably be in SM as is.

    33. 06-11-2007 06:29 PM #33
      Thank you for clarifying that for me. Thats kind of how I figured it would work out. I just not that familar with the rules on modifications. Thanks again.

    34. 07-17-2007 01:11 PM #34
      Quote, originally posted by meangreen18T »
      in order to be stock you need to have "all" of the optinons/configurations that the gti came frome the factory with. So if the gti only came in 2door and you have a 4 door your car could never be considered a stock gti. If your car was completly upgraded to factory gti statusyou caould be sonsidered stock then add/subtract to get into st_ calsses.
      However, I belive your car would probably be in SM as is.

      I believe all those mods fall under the update/backdate rules for Street Prepared (maybe ST has the same rule, IDK). The car would be legal for FSP.


    35. Member fast, Jr.'s Avatar
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      08-29-2007 12:51 PM #35
      Quote, originally posted by Mhyrr »
      Changes in stock boost level, for example, are illegal in Stock, Street Touring, and Street Prepared. It would be an impossible task to set boost level maximums and actually be able to control or check levels at an event. The alternative is either allowing unlimited boost (which is what Street Modified does) or allowing no boost changes (SP and lower).

      ...so ok - I have a GIAC 93 Octane program on my 1.8T. If I get the Flashloader that restores the car's PCM to its stock maps, will I be able to run stock class?? the boost levels would be back to normal, also.

      Thug Sauce

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