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    Thread: ***corrado BROKEN door handle repair INSTRUCTIONS***

    1. 02-09-2005 10:04 AM #1
      Here is an updated set of instructions to help you install the steel striker. These are a general view to help aide you. This is the easiest way I have found to do the installation. You are responsible for your own handle as you are the one installing or having someone else install the striker arm. I'm not responsible for any damages caused by inappropriate installation and carelessness. I suggest an experienced mechanic perform the operation. However, this can be done by anyone who is mechanically inclined, patient, and can follow directions. Please be careful and take your time when you do this. Stay away from the wire harness that runs into the handle and be gentle with the metal parts in the handle as well. If you have any questions, you can contact me before you start. Please wear eye protection, gloves, ear plugs, hard hat, and steel toe boots during the process. BE CAREFUL!
      If you have VR6 handles (raised lip or ring around the key hole), the passenger side handle's screw which holds the handle to the door MAY BE a LEFT-HAND thread. I have come across a few handles this way opposed to others on the passenger side that were right-handed threads. Remember this so you won't damage your handle by thinking the screw is seized and cause yourself grief. Some guru engineer decided he wanted to make VR6 handles different than the rest for some bogus reason. Left-handed threads must turn "clockwise" to remove. Right-handed threads must turn "counter-clockwise" to remove.
      Make sure you take your door panel completely off, unplug the handle, and remove the clip that holds the handle's wires inside the door before you unscrew and try to remove the handle from the door. The factory does not give you much slack in the wires. If you pull on the handle without unhooking and making sure the wiring is lose, you might damage the handles tiny black switch (held by a small screw and mounted in the handle) which locks/unlocks the door by the vacuum actuators when you turn and hold the key.
      It is a very good idea to roll your window down before installing the striker into your handle that way it is easy to open the door from the inside if something doesn't work right when you go to install the finished handle on the door. If not, you'll be walking around the car and going in through the other door to open the door you are working on. Also, when you are ready to install the handle back to the door, try it a few times before inserting the phillips head screw to hold it in place in the door jamb. Insert the handle as you normally would making sure the 2 OEM black plastic gaskets are attached to the handle. There is also a white plastic clip that mounts in the door handle hole. It keeps the backside of the handle's base from moving outward once the handle is installed. Make sure you have one or your handle will not work correctly. Sometimes, they fall down inside the door when you remove a handle. Insert the handle back into the door as it would correctly sit being mounted. Take one hand and push lightly/hold the big base of the handle and take the other hand and pull to open the door. Keep your hand on the base and don't let the handle move. Shut the door and repeat the process a few times as you try the "repaired" handle out. With the door open, make sure the handle doesn't move as you insert/tighten the phillips screw. ***Please try the handle out a few times before you afix it to the door with the screw. It will save you a headache in case something wasn't done correctly when you installed the "repaired" handle. ***

      Below are a series of pictures I have taken to show you the simple steps involved in changing out the door handle striker arm. Steps are labeled from 0 to 9. I have also included a few pictures of an early Corrado factory OEM striker arm which is adjustable, and a later Corrado striker arm that is non-adjustable. There are also a few picts of the tools I use to rebuild the handles, just to give you an idea.
      Late and early model Corrado OEM strikers (note how the later striker has the white plastic cap that does not screw out and adjust like the earlier striker):

      Early model handle (89'-90') that does not have a long spring arm that lays against the striker. We'll call him "stubby":

      Late model handle (even the VR6 & Passat handle) that has the long spring arm that lays against the striker. We'll call him "oaf":

      Some of the tools I use to rebuild handles (variable speed drill, not pictured):

      Step 0... Locate the roll pin that holds the striker arm in place on the handle.

      Step 1,& 2...
      You must drill the pin out or extract it with a 4 mm thread tap . Usually a 3/32" drill bit will remove the pin fast and easy when using a varaible speed drill, but the drill must turn "REALLY SLOW". If you barely hold the trigger down on the drill and get the drill bit to creep along, you can start it into the hole of the roll/spring pin. The bit will start to grab the inside of the pin and as it does so, pull the drill away from the handle. This will make the pin spin right out while it is stuck to the bit. You can then twist the pin off the bit and reuse the factory pin or use the one I provide when installing your repair kit. If that doesn't work, you will have to drill all the way through the pin with the 3/32" bit and gradually keep changing the bits in your drill to the next size bigger (example...3/32", then 1/8", then 3/16") until the pin finally lodges itself to a drill bit and you can pull it out. You can use a 4mm tap also by clamping it into the jaws off some vice grips and slowly start to thread the inside of the pin. Once there are some threads created, you can pull the pin straight out of the handle very fast. However, if you slightly turn it as you do so, you might break the tip of the tap in the pin. I generally don't recommend this method. If you break the tap, you'll probably be sending me your handle to install your part.

      Step 3...
      Hold the handle in your hands and engage the handle in the "open" position. Once you do so, you will need to chock it with something so that it stays open while you remove/install the steel striker arm. I usually use something plastic like the top of a pill bottle (shown), 20 oz pop bottle cap, piece of wood, etc. This insures that you won't gouge or scratch the handle.

      Step 4, 5, & 6...
      Grab the striker arm or remaining piece that is broke off with either your hand or a pair of needle nose pliers, twist, and remove it from the handle.

      Step 7, & 8...
      Insert the new steel striker arm. In early G60 handles, simply drop it in making sure the "hook" part of the striker arm is behind the small square plunger which actually touches/pushes the striker arm. Line up the holes, insert the roll/spring pin, and push the pin back in. On later G60, VR6, and B3 Passat handles, there is a spring arm that lays against or in the striker arm. This makes the striker return easier in its "closed/shut door" state, and also makes the handle operate very smooth compared to the primitive, early Corrado handles. You must insert the spring arm in the "hook" part of the striker. I usually use a small flat tip screw driver to lift up and hold the spring arm in place while I insert the striker. Once you get the spring arm in the "hook", push or pull the striker in its destined place, align the holes, and push the old or new tension/roll pin back in.

      Step 9...
      Admire your creation or say a few choice words. You have saved yourself a daily Migraine headache and have given your Corrado a new prosthetic limb.

      IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO GREASE THE THE INTERNALS OF THE HANDLE THOROUGHLY AND ALSO THE RELEASE TAB THAT THE HANDLE ACTUALLY PUSHES...LOCATED INSIDE THE DOOR. Metal on metal contact promotes wear. Everything will work smooth just like off the lot if you take the time to practice preventive maintenance.
      There are also a few tricks to adjusting the handle properly in case your handle doesn't feel right. One reason may be due to the car being in an accident in the past. Therefore, something might be a little tweaked or you might have a little body filler around the door hole. I found this out because I had body filler around that area of my door. The rubber cap can be taken off, making the striker shorter if the handle opens the car, but the door won't shut all the way. Also, the release tab on the striker mechanism inside the door can be carefully pulled up, etc to accomadate a problem with the way the striker hits it to open the door.

      Modified by the_street_shop at 4:41 PM 2-22-2005
      Modified by the_street_shop at 7:01 PM 2-22-2005

      Modified by the_street_shop at 9:52 PM 2-22-2005

    2. 02-09-2005 10:36 AM #2
      nice work [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    3. Member
      Join Date
      Jun 1st, 2003
      Houston, TX
      '90 Vanagon Carat, '13 JSW TDI
      02-14-2005 11:54 AM #3
      Sny suggestion on what kind of grease to use? Looks like you have some green stuff?

    4. 02-15-2005 06:05 PM #4
      That green stuff is Lucas...$12.00 a can. It sticks to whatever you put it on and won't come off. It's actually a bearing grease. It's like the king of all grease as B-12 is the king of all carb sprays. White lithium grease is good as well. Some grease you buy at automotive chain stores will actually turn from a solid to a liquid in the summer heat...Valvoline grease is terrible. You can put an open container of it on your driveway in the morning, and when you check it around 3:00 pm on nice hot day, it will be basically oil.

      Modified by the_street_shop at 3:07 PM 2-15-2005

    5. Member DaddyMak05's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 7th, 2003
      Lancaster, PA
      92 Corrado VR6
      02-27-2005 04:40 PM #5
      had a problem with door locking after install... IM sent, please let me know
      www.tristateindie.com - Your Local Indie Music Music Source

    6. 02-27-2005 10:47 PM #6
      I sent IM earlier. My IMs work when they want to. Call me now if you have a chance. 580.465.6484 or e-mail me your number...the_street_shop@hotmail.com and I will call you. Check and see if the pin that holds the striker is pushed in all the way. If not, it will push the gasket to the side or hit the inside of the door hole, not allowing the handle to sit all the way to the side in the hole. There is a "V" arm connected to the lock tumbler that turns when you turn your key. It hits the tab in the door behind the tab that the striker pushes down to open the door. If the door handle isn't all the way over in the hole, that "V" will barely hit that door lock tab and will give you problems. Call me anyway or shoot me your number via e-mail.

      Modified by the_street_shop at 4:59 AM 2-28-2005

    7. Member DaddyMak05's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 7th, 2003
      Lancaster, PA
      92 Corrado VR6
      03-01-2005 07:31 PM #7
      Never mind... got it all figured out... the electrical chords were gettin in the way...
      THanks for the help!
      www.tristateindie.com - Your Local Indie Music Music Source

    8. 07-05-2005 04:19 PM #8
      bump for archives.

    9. Awaiting Email Confirmation
      Join Date
      Mar 31st, 2003
      08-25-2005 09:24 PM #9

    10. 08-26-2005 01:21 AM #10
      sweet...where can i get new striker arms?

    11. Awaiting Email Confirmation
      Join Date
      Mar 31st, 2003
      08-26-2005 01:38 AM #11
      i just bought a set from him

    12. 08-26-2005 01:46 AM #12
      nevermind i just saw the link he had...how long will you keep those on ebay for?

      Modified by animal1 at 6:47 AM 8-26-2005

    13. 08-27-2005 03:23 AM #13
      if your doors work from the inside and not the outside that is a striker problem or am i wrong.

    14. 03-31-2006 06:58 PM #14
      i just got the repair kit, took like 10 minutes to fix, i think it took longer to remove door panel trim, than to replace metal catch thingy. hella good deal, best 30 bucks ever spent, YIPPEEE no more going thru pas door, YES, thanks again

    15. 03-31-2006 06:58 PM #15
      i just got the repair kit, took like 10 minutes to fix, i think it took longer to remove door panel trim, than to replace metal catch thingy. hella good deal, best 30 bucks ever spent, YIPPEEE no more going thru pas door, YES, thanks again

    16. 04-01-2006 04:03 AM #16
      good product, good man, i wish i could buy more just to give him more business but i already bought two and i only have one corrado
      -----Enkei RPF1 $1200 17x9.5 +38 with Nitto NT-01-----Need Decals Cut? Click Me-----Need Wiring Help? Click Me-----

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    17. 10-28-2006 09:19 AM #17
      Is this kit appropriate for a 96 97 passat?

    18. Member Lurkertom's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 31st, 2003
      Longview WA
      2001 Audi TT Quattro Roadster, 2014 Tiguan SEL 4MO, 1995 Ford F350 4X4
      09-19-2007 05:14 PM #18

    19. Member vdubfrk's Avatar
      Join Date
      Sep 5th, 2004
      1992 corrado SLC,1990 corrado G60
      10-22-2007 01:41 AM #19
      BUMP for a great info, i just buy this kit from ricky and they work really good,feels good not having to get into the car from the passenger side! [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    20. 10-22-2007 02:27 AM #20
      Hey ricky, got the door handle, man I never reailized how shiny these are compared to the 12 Y.o. handle on my door. I have a question though, my striker looks like none of the ones in the thread. here is a pic

    21. Member wannabdubbin's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 22nd, 2002
      Royal Oak, MI
      03 Jetta WGN
      11-26-2007 06:44 PM #21
      dude, got any pics of the spring loaded center punch that you use now?? Instead of the drill bit pics??
      thanks, awaiting my shipment...

    22. 02-09-2008 05:30 PM #22
      I was wondering if it would be wise to put a dot of epoxy on the end where the pin is exposed (to be sanded away later if needed) in order to prevent the pin from working its way out (since it just slides right in greased up and can be tapped out) or if the spring putting force on the whole thing (I have a VR6 handle) is enough to keep the pin perfectly in place. (The new striker works great, by the way.)

    23. 02-20-2008 12:58 AM #23
      Just installed this. Pretty straight forward. Hardest part was removing the door panel (which I've done so many times I could do it blind folded) so its pretty easy. I re-used the original pin as the drill bit did not do any damage to it and it wedged back in very snug. Well worth the money. (*See VR6 Driver's Side handle below)

      Modified by 93SLCyasee at 1:00 AM 2-20-2008

    24. Member highoutput's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 24th, 2005
      Upstate , NY
      08 GLI ,83 scirroco, '84 BMW 318i
      02-20-2008 07:18 AM #24
      I put one of these in my door at some point. Great fix!!, and great price.
      the instructions make it look harder than it is. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    25. Member Vr6CoRRadO420's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 27th, 2004
      PA 17015
      92 Corrado SLC ,Couple Parts Cars, 88 Jeep Comanche & Whatever else comes my way
      11-30-2008 04:38 PM #25
      easy enough.. but i had to use the tap trick.. .luckily i didnt break it!! [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Ive Owned 26+ Corrado's so far...
      6 Of them I have Daily Driven for well over a year each....
      6 Of them were used to save others.....
      & 14 Of them I have saved/fixed and Resold......
      More to come!

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