Here is an updated set of instructions to help you install the steel striker. These are a general view to help aide you. This is the easiest way I have found to do the installation. You are responsible for your own handle as you are the one installing or having someone else install the striker arm. I'm not responsible for any damages caused by inappropriate installation and carelessness. I suggest an experienced mechanic perform the operation. However, this can be done by anyone who is mechanically inclined, patient, and can follow directions. Please be careful and take your time when you do this. Stay away from the wire harness that runs into the handle and be gentle with the metal parts in the handle as well. If you have any questions, you can contact me before you start. Please wear eye protection, gloves, ear plugs, hard hat, and steel toe boots during the process. BE CAREFUL!
If you have VR6 handles (raised lip or ring around the key hole), the passenger side handle's screw which holds the handle to the door MAY BE a LEFT-HAND thread. I have come across a few handles this way opposed to others on the passenger side that were right-handed threads. Remember this so you won't damage your handle by thinking the screw is seized and cause yourself grief. Some guru engineer decided he wanted to make VR6 handles different than the rest for some bogus reason. Left-handed threads must turn "clockwise" to remove. Right-handed threads must turn "counter-clockwise" to remove.
Make sure you take your door panel completely off, unplug the handle, and remove the clip that holds the handle's wires inside the door before you unscrew and try to remove the handle from the door. The factory does not give you much slack in the wires. If you pull on the handle without unhooking and making sure the wiring is lose, you might damage the handles tiny black switch (held by a small screw and mounted in the handle) which locks/unlocks the door by the vacuum actuators when you turn and hold the key.
It is a very good idea to roll your window down before installing the striker into your handle that way it is easy to open the door from the inside if something doesn't work right when you go to install the finished handle on the door. If not, you'll be walking around the car and going in through the other door to open the door you are working on. Also, when you are ready to install the handle back to the door, try it a few times before inserting the phillips head screw to hold it in place in the door jamb. Insert the handle as you normally would making sure the 2 OEM black plastic gaskets are attached to the handle. There is also a white plastic clip that mounts in the door handle hole. It keeps the backside of the handle's base from moving outward once the handle is installed. Make sure you have one or your handle will not work correctly. Sometimes, they fall down inside the door when you remove a handle. Insert the handle back into the door as it would correctly sit being mounted. Take one hand and push lightly/hold the big base of the handle and take the other hand and pull to open the door. Keep your hand on the base and don't let the handle move. Shut the door and repeat the process a few times as you try the "repaired" handle out. With the door open, make sure the handle doesn't move as you insert/tighten the phillips screw. ***Please try the handle out a few times before you afix it to the door with the screw. It will save you a headache in case something wasn't done correctly when you installed the "repaired" handle. ***
Below are a series of pictures I have taken to show you the simple steps involved in changing out the door handle striker arm. Steps are labeled from 0 to 9. I have also included a few pictures of an early Corrado factory OEM striker arm which is adjustable, and a later Corrado striker arm that is non-adjustable. There are also a few picts of the tools I use to rebuild the handles, just to give you an idea.
Late and early model Corrado OEM strikers (note how the later striker has the white plastic cap that does not screw out and adjust like the earlier striker):
Early model handle (89'-90') that does not have a long spring arm that lays against the striker. We'll call him "stubby":
Late model handle (even the VR6 & Passat handle) that has the long spring arm that lays against the striker. We'll call him "oaf":
Some of the tools I use to rebuild handles (variable speed drill, not pictured):
Step 0... Locate the roll pin that holds the striker arm in place on the handle.
Step 1,& 2...
You must drill the pin out or extract it with a 4 mm thread tap . Usually a 3/32" drill bit will remove the pin fast and easy when using a varaible speed drill, but the drill must turn "REALLY SLOW". If you barely hold the trigger down on the drill and get the drill bit to creep along, you can start it into the hole of the roll/spring pin. The bit will start to grab the inside of the pin and as it does so, pull the drill away from the handle. This will make the pin spin right out while it is stuck to the bit. You can then twist the pin off the bit and reuse the factory pin or use the one I provide when installing your repair kit. If that doesn't work, you will have to drill all the way through the pin with the 3/32" bit and gradually keep changing the bits in your drill to the next size bigger (example...3/32", then 1/8", then 3/16") until the pin finally lodges itself to a drill bit and you can pull it out. You can use a 4mm tap also by clamping it into the jaws off some vice grips and slowly start to thread the inside of the pin. Once there are some threads created, you can pull the pin straight out of the handle very fast. However, if you slightly turn it as you do so, you might break the tip of the tap in the pin. I generally don't recommend this method. If you break the tap, you'll probably be sending me your handle to install your part.
Hold the handle in your hands and engage the handle in the "open" position. Once you do so, you will need to chock it with something so that it stays open while you remove/install the steel striker arm. I usually use something plastic like the top of a pill bottle (shown), 20 oz pop bottle cap, piece of wood, etc. This insures that you won't gouge or scratch the handle.
Step 4, 5, & 6...
Grab the striker arm or remaining piece that is broke off with either your hand or a pair of needle nose pliers, twist, and remove it from the handle.
Step 7, & 8...
Insert the new steel striker arm. In early G60 handles, simply drop it in making sure the "hook" part of the striker arm is behind the small square plunger which actually touches/pushes the striker arm. Line up the holes, insert the roll/spring pin, and push the pin back in. On later G60, VR6, and B3 Passat handles, there is a spring arm that lays against or in the striker arm. This makes the striker return easier in its "closed/shut door" state, and also makes the handle operate very smooth compared to the primitive, early Corrado handles. You must insert the spring arm in the "hook" part of the striker. I usually use a small flat tip screw driver to lift up and hold the spring arm in place while I insert the striker. Once you get the spring arm in the "hook", push or pull the striker in its destined place, align the holes, and push the old or new tension/roll pin back in.
Admire your creation or say a few choice words. You have saved yourself a daily Migraine headache and have given your Corrado a new prosthetic limb.
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO GREASE THE THE INTERNALS OF THE HANDLE THOROUGHLY AND ALSO THE RELEASE TAB THAT THE HANDLE ACTUALLY PUSHES...LOCATED INSIDE THE DOOR. Metal on metal contact promotes wear. Everything will work smooth just like off the lot if you take the time to practice preventive maintenance.
There are also a few tricks to adjusting the handle properly in case your handle doesn't feel right. One reason may be due to the car being in an accident in the past. Therefore, something might be a little tweaked or you might have a little body filler around the door hole. I found this out because I had body filler around that area of my door. The rubber cap can be taken off, making the striker shorter if the handle opens the car, but the door won't shut all the way. Also, the release tab on the striker mechanism inside the door can be carefully pulled up, etc to accomadate a problem with the way the striker hits it to open the door.
Modified by the_street_shop at 4:41 PM 2-22-2005
Modified by the_street_shop at 7:01 PM 2-22-2005
Modified by the_street_shop at 9:52 PM 2-22-2005