Phaeton Trailer Hitch Installation

[PeterMills]

Michael - if you have time to do these pictures ........

Best wishes Peter M

[PanEuropean]

Hi Peter:

Photos re-hosted, sorry for the delay.

Michael

[tynee]

How could you fit a two bike carrier into this hitch assembly if bike carriers traditionally have an arm that slides into the square hole of typical trailer hitches? Unless there is another part out there someone knows of?

[PeterMills]

The bike carrier (two bikes) I used to have relied simply on a friction grab to the tow bar ball itself.

PETER M


Modified by PeterMills at 7:21 AM 4-5-2008

[dennissura]

Don't know if you have anyone who volunteered yet. I live in Detroit Metro and would be willing to let U Haul have my car for a day inorder to get the hitch. I would work with my VW dealer on the electrical. I was going to sell my Phaeton but decided to keep it and move it our West to our home in LV and let it haul my camper.

[dennissura]

Did you ever install the trailer hitch on your Phaeton? I am interested in doing the same and would like to know what load limits are in place. Thinking of hauling a pop up tailer. I live in Detroit Metro.

[KCPhaetonTech]

Any excuse to use the Phaeton:

[IMG][/IMG]

Modified by KCPhaetonTech at 11:58 AM 9-26-2009

[PanEuropean]

Quote, originally posted by dennissura »

Did you ever install the trailer hitch on your Phaeton? I am interested in doing the same and would like to know what load limits are in place. Thinking of hauling a pop up tailer.

Hi Dennis:

The load limits for towing with the V8 powered Phaeton are listed in the technical specifications section of the owner manual.

The North American W12 Phaetons are not approved for trailer towing because they don't have sufficient brake Ke reserve to cope with the weight of a trailer. NAR W12s are fitted with smaller brake assemblies than the European W12s (this makes sense for owners, because the NAR vehicles are limited to lower top speeds), and one consequence of this is that there is not enough Ke reserve to cope with a trailer.

Having said that - if someone wanted to tow a light trailer (e.g. a little platform for carrying garden supplies, etc.) around in the city, I think they could probably get away with it. But, it would be unwise and unsafe to attempt to tow a medium or heavy trailer at highway speeds with a NAR W12.

Rich at OEM Plus carries the original Phaeton trailer hitch kit (the authentic VW parts shown in the earlier photos in this thread). Click here to go directly to the Phaeton hitch page.

Michael

[Irish Phaeton]

Just wondering if anyone got around to fitting a hitch to a UK phaeton. Leaving aside bumper removal, which requires the batteries to be removed, it should not be a huge task

I need to get back sailing and need to get moving fast to get anything done this year!

All advice & input welcome.
http://www.towbarsdirect.co.uk/
Base hitch as factory fitted is about £250 + bumper trim + electrics.

Thanks
Hugh
Dublin

[phaetonenvy]

Not to threadjack - but I'd be interested in speaking with anyone who installed this stateside.

More importantly, anyone who found an alternative that was less than the oemplus price.

is towbarsdirect a suitable alternative?

I'd really like to use the phaeton for an external bike rack and towing as well.

thanks!

[Irish Phaeton]

I finally got around on Saturday in fitting the Westfalia hitch to MY 2008 diesel Phaeton.
Many thanks to all the comments & assistance assembled in this thread; it make it much more straightforward task.
While it’s fresh in my mind I will make a few quick points. I will not attempt to duplicate the instructions for removing the rear bumper or other installation instructions, only to point out a few less obvious issues.
1. As per the earlier images, I used the Westfaila component as used in the factory. Cost approximately £290 including a relay based light connector for can-bus based system. I did not bother with the factory lighting component as my trailer use will be modest and the relay system apparently works fine with the phaeton. However this is not yet connected internally.
2. There is no need to jack up the car or remove the wheels. Provided you have a suitable stubby torx driver you can remove all the necessary wheel liner fasteners (~5) without wheel removal.
3. There is no need to remove the batteries or boot lining.
4. Remove the Fuse board. READ THE FAQ on how to do this. It is not intuitive.
5. Remove the DVD changer if you have the multimedia system.
6. Remove the rear light clusters (4 black torx fittings each side)
7. Reach up underneath the bumper and separate the proximity sensor electrical connectors (2), if you can. Otherwise you will have to separate after all the bolts are undone.
8. Follow the instructions posted in the FAQ to remove the rear bumper. I was working single handed, so if you can get assistance it’s much easier. There is nothing particularly difficult, but the torx fittings in the boot (trunk) compartment are a little tricky to access. I did not remove either batteries and did not feel it would have been any significant benefit.
9. Detach the electrical connector if not done already.
10. Remove & discard the old bumper bar
11. The exhaust system must be lowered on each side. I was concerned here as I felt it must be supported and I arranged ad-hoc support (upturned plastic containers!) but in the event the exhaust is very rigid: it drops only by about 40mm.
12. Remove one of the supporting fasteners form the heat shield and bend it slightly to get access to the fixing positions: remove the covering to expose the holes.
13. Install the hitch.
14. Install the fixing bolts. NOTE. The access is such that it’s easy to cross thread the bolts as I did with one, and wasted 20 minutes solving that basic mistake 
15. Apply some anti-corrosion coating to the bolts. I feel this is mostly theoretical as even though my car has 60K miles, this area was still clean. My local garage did not have the wax coating, so I got an under body coating from a local accessory shop and it gave a good plastic finish to this area.
16. I got the new lower trim for the bumper (V3D5807434HV7S) UK£ 107; detach the old one and install the new one to the bumper. However if you want to save a few $$ you could easily trim away the same sized opening and apply an edging strip on the raw edge. The extra cut out is invisible from a normal viewing position. If you use the new trim, make sure EVERY connector is snapped home when joining with the bumper.
17. If you have not done so, install the light fitting connector and thread through into truck compartment.
18. Refasten heat shield and exhaust
19. Reinstall the bumper.
20. Reconnect the electrical connector for the sensors
21. Reinstall the rear light cluster, fuse box, etc.


Total time was about 5 hours, but this was totally single handed and making a few mistakes. If there was assistance and with more experience than I have, this could be done in maybe 3 hours.

[phaetonenvy]

Thanks for the update.

I am now convinced that I need a towbar.

I can't wait to see some pics.

[Irish Phaeton]

I took a few pics, but nothing that adds anything to the images earlier in this thread. Overall this is not a difficult task for someone with some time, tools and the general practical capabilities required to do see it through.
Hugh

[phaetonenvy]

Thanks again!

I was hoping for pics of the sailboat in tow.

I recall an image that VW was circulating of the phaeton towing a very large sailboat as part of a demonstration. I haven't been able to find the image...but it was very impressive.

[Faszination]

Hugh,

Can you elaborate on how you did the electrics for the tow bar? Did you source the components from VW or independently? Did the system need re coding or did it work when the components were plugged in?

Cheers

Ian

[plastech]

Thanks again!

I was hoping for pics of the sailboat in tow.

I recall an image that VW was circulating of the phaeton towing a very large sailboat as part of a demonstration. I haven't been able to find the image...but it was very impressive.

I like this one

[Zaphh]

I like the effort the owner put in using the same wheels for the trailer.

The boat matches the car very well too.

Too bad the car moved out of the photo when the guy pressed on the button !

P.

[PanEuropean]

I like the effort the owner put in using the same wheels for the trailer.

In the case of the photo above, the 'owner' is the Gläsern Manufaktur in Dresden. Both the vehicle and the trailer (and boat) are part of the fleet cars there. The photo was taken about 2006 or so, I don't know if they still own the assembly or not.

On the topic of trailer hitches, just a word in the ear of the North American Region (NAR) W12 owners: Because the North American W12 vehicles are fitted with the smaller front brake assemblies that are used on the ROW (Rest of World) V8 vehicles, the NAR W12s are not approved for trailer towing. This is because there is not sufficient braking power reserve to cope with the added weight of a trailer. I suppose that if someone wanted to hook up a small garden trailer and tow a 300 pound load from the local nursery to their home at 30 MPH, there might not be too much risk, but attempting to tow something like the boat shown in the picture above would be very dangerous in a NAR W12. The car would have more than enough power to accelerate to highway speeds, but not enough braking capability to slow down.

Michael

[W12mike]

The car would have more than enough power to accelerate to highway speeds, but not enough braking capability to slow down.

I dont dispute the facts regarding the weights for the NA W12, but the reason is different i belive.

First, all trailers have brakes that take care of the trailers own weight, so it doesent matter if the car has the 3,0 Tdi or EU w12 brakes. Trailer still brakes itself.

The real reason I belive, is the very different aproach to trailer towing in EU VS NA:

In Europe the weight resting on the thow hitch is relativly low.
An example is my former caravan, its max weight was 2600 kg, tounge weight was 110 kg.
I towed this caravan some 4000 km with my Phaeton, exelent road manners.

A similar caravan in NA has a toung weight of 300-400 kg, only a heavy pick up can tow it due to the high hitch weigt. In NA there would also be an anti sway brake fitted, newer ever used in EU.

All this makes it almost impossible to alow a passenger car to tow the full EU aproved weight in NA.
The car would colapse under the NA toung weight!

Look at this typical NA TT, it has the wheels a long way back putting a lot of weight on the tow bar.
In this case 659 Lbs.


This is the kin of TT i had, a typical European TT.
Look how centered the wheels are.

[Zaphh]

I dont dispute the facts regarding the weights for the NA W12, but the reason is different i belive.

There is another reason for your reason to be wrong, Michael: If a V8 can tow a trailer, then this means that V8 brakes can brake the car + trailer.

Now, there would be a difference between a W12 and a V8 if you were driving with the trailer at speeds that the W12 could attain that the V8 could not. But with a trailer, you probably have a maximum speed that will be the same for a V8 and a W12. So if both the V8 or the W12 run at identical speeds, it is only the difference of weight between the two cars that would be the difference.

Could this be the reason why W12 cannot tow trailers ?

P.

[PanEuropean]

Hi Pierre:

Yes, the difference in vehicle weight (between the V8 and the W12) is exactly the reason why the NAR W12 is not approved for trailer towing. The two vehicles share the same brakes, and the top speed is limited to 210 km/h for both (which both vehicles can easily achieve).

Trailer tongue weight is not an issue at all - that acts in a vertical direction. The brake energy requirements imposed when slowing down with the trailer attached (when the mass of the trailer exerts a forward force against the Phaeton, and all sorts of force vectors arise as a result of that) is the cause of the restriction.

The owner manual for the NAR W12 is very explicit about this - "Trailer towing is not approved."

Michael

[W12mike]

The owner manual for the NAR W12 is very explicit about this - "Trailer towing is not approved."

Exactly, I have never doubted that fact.

On the tounge weigt, you Michael are wrong, it is a serius issue.
The owner manual for the EU Phaeton is very explicit about this - "max tounge weigt is 100 Kg."

Its not OK to load the tow hitch with 2 or 3 times the max weigt alowed.
This limit is set by VW, not the manufacturer of the tow bar.

In EU the max alowed tow weigt is 2500 Kg for the 3,0 Tdi, I seem to remember that the W12 has a 2400 Kg rating. All with max 100 Kg toune weigt.

[PanEuropean]

On the tongue weight, you Michael are wrong, it is a serious issue.
The owner manual for the EU Phaeton is very explicit about this - "max tongue weight is 100 Kg.".

Hi Mike:

I am sure we both agree on this, the problem is that I did not express myself well in my earlier post. I was attempting to explain that the most serious of the possible problems was the requirement to decelerate the mass of both the vehicle and the trailer - in other words, dealing with the consequences of force acting in a horizontal (forward) direction.

I did not mean to suggest that it is acceptable to exceed the maximum tongue weight. My concern was that an owner may (for example) exceed the tongue weight by 100% (e.g. from 100 kg to 200 kg), then look at the vehicle and think "It appears - visually - to be OK", and not consider that when the vehicle is sitting still, there is no indication of the potential problem that will be presented when the driver attempts to decelerate the vehicle. During deceleration, the entire mass of the trailer will act against the vehicle, and the braking system will not be able to cope with the demand to decelerate that additional mass.

Michael

[Zaphh]

There is still something unclear, as trailer (above a certain mass) have their own brake system... The trailer is not braked by the car. The trailer brakes are operated by the tongue. When the car brakes, the trailer will push on the tongue. This will actuate the brakes of the trailer (this must be quite well tuned so as to avoid jolts)...

So in a sense, since the trailer has its own brakes, braking the trailer should not be an issue...

P.

[WillemBal]

When the car brakes, the trailer will push on the tongue. This will actuate the brakes of the trailer (this must be quite well tuned so as to avoid jolts)...

That will create a force in the direction of the driving direction of the car, in other words, a force acting in the longitudinal direction. When the brakes are properly tuned and are functioning normally, then this force would be the same, almost regardless of the weight of the trailer.

But the problem is that the trailer brakes will create a rotational acting force as well. The trailer tends to dive forward, just like any vehicle will do when brakes are applied. So that force will result in an additional vertical force on the tongue. And the amount of this vertical force will be linearly proportional with the weight of the trailer - among others.
So I guess that makes the handling of the car, towing a heavy weight trailer, a lot different during braking.

Willem

[Faszination]

Can anyone advise how difficult the electrics are to connect assuming you get all the VW components? Having looked at the various comments and diagrams further up this post it all seems fairly plug and play but I am not clear on exactly where the J345 controller plugs on to the bus and whether the car needs recoding once connected for it to be recognised.

Any advice greatfully received.

Cheers

Ian

[Irish Phaeton]

1. I used the non-VW electronics. This is basically a generic relay based system for can-bus systems. Retail about $25 for an electrical block about 10cmx4cmx1cm.
It works flawlessly, but of course I get false beeps on reversing sensor (which would be disabled by VW module) but no error in the Phaeton systems. In an earlier post a fellow poster has listed the colour codes for the connections at the rear lights, and I can confirm these are fully accurate for a MY 2008 European diesel.
Usefully the generic relay box has 2 useful features
1) It beeps when turn indicators are used, and a load is detected. This is just about audible in the car and confirm that the trailer rear turn indicators are connected and functioning.
2) By a series of button clicks a trailer fog light can be "latched" on even though the rear car fog light is turned off

While I am sure the VW solution would ultimately be better, I do very little towing and so it's fine for me. However having the tow option removed the need to change cars for something more utilitarian.

[PanEuropean]

Can anyone advise how difficult the electrics are to connect assuming you get all the VW components? Having looked at the various comments and diagrams further up this post it all seems fairly plug and play but I am not clear on exactly where the J345 controller plugs on to the bus and whether the car needs recoding once connected for it to be recognised.

Any advice greatfully received.

Ian:

I have several wiring diagrams that I think will provide you with the information you need to answer your questions, but they are too big to attach here in the forum.

Please send me a PM (Private Message) that contains your email and I will send them directly to you. Total size of the diagrams (PDF files) is about 6 megs.

Michael

[dythama]

Hi guys,
Thought you maybe interested to learn as I have the (the hard way in my case) that Volkswagens parts catalogue only lists the tow kit listed in this thread (3D0 055 204) as suitable for ALL Phaetons 2003 onwards.

THE CATALOGUE IS INCORRECT AND THIS KIT ONLY SUITS GP1 PHAETON UPTO 2008.

VOLKSWAGEN DO NOT CURRENTLY OFFER ANY SOLUTION TO RETRO-FIT TOWING ELECTRICS TO GP2 AND GP3 PHAETON POST 2008


After much discussion with VW UK, Dresden Factory and my retailer, the concensus agreed by VW UK and VW UK Technical is that a tow hitch cannot be retrofitted to GP2 and GP3 Phaeton as there is no retro-fit kit availiable.

The reason for the incompatibility is due to change in CAN bus operation. The later CAN works so I believe at a higher frequency. The symptoms following install of kit 3D0 055 204 are as follows:

1) Trailer ligh function is normal
2) Park assist is not disabled whilst trailer connected and reverse selected
3) Faults logged on Cluster due to implausible comms to trailer module
4) Trailer mode not enabled to ABS, ESP etc when trailer connected
5) Lane assist not disabled during towing

The solution adopted by myself and the retailer was to retrofit the module installed at factory which is also shared with certain Touareg models. This module fits to the same install bracket mentioned elsewhere in this thread and is 7L0 907 383N

This required the existing plugs for the original device 8E0 907 383C to be cut off and connected to new wires and inserted into two different plug shells. Additionally it was also neccesary to run a additional fuse to Fuse location SC28 (15A)

Coding of the module was straight forward and correct functionallity not afforded by 8E0 907 383C has now been overcome. Additionally unlike pre 2008 Phaetons, GP2 Phaeton do not have trailer indicator active warning on the cluster. Instead all trailer functions that are defective are detailed by explicit warning messages on the dash insert display!!

Connections for changing from the supplied module to the OEM post 2009 module are detailed below:

Phaeton Connection Conversion
T6 = Kit supplied 6 way connector
T14 = Kit supplied 14 way connector
T13 = Kit supplied 13 way trailer external connector

T12 and T16 are the new connectors used to plug into new updated module.

Device 8E0 907 383C (up to 11/08) Teminates Device 7L0 907 383N

T6h/1 Red 2.5 Fuse SC13 30A T12af/12
T6h/2 Brown 2.5 T12af/10
T6h/3 Orange/Green (Can H) 0.35 T12af/7
T6h/4 Orange/Brown (Can L) 0.35 T12af/8
T6h/5 Black/Blue 0.5 Fuse SC20 5A T12af/2
T6h/6 Red/Yellow 0.75 T13/6 T16o/13


T14c/1 Grey/Black 0.75 T13/7 T16o/10
T14c/2 Black/White 0.75 T13/1 T16o/7
T14c/3 Grey/Red 0.75 T13/5 T16o/4
T14c/4 Black/Green 0.75 T13/4 T16o/5
T14c/5 Grey/White 0.75 T13/2 T16o/2
T14c/6 - - -
T14c/7 Blue/Red 0.75 T13/8 T16o/3
T14c/8 Red/Black 0.5 - T12af/3


T13/9 Red/Green 2.5 Fuse SC9 30A -
Red/Green 2.5 Fuse SC9 30A T12af/11
Red/Green 2.5 T13/9 T16o/16

New Wire 1.5 Fuse SC28 15A T12af/9


Part numbers required to convert kit 3D0 055 204 to suit GP2 and GP3 Phaeton 2009 onwards:
New module 7L0 907 383N
Plug shell 6Q0 937 713
Plug shell 6Q0 972 883B
OEM wires with fitted terminals for above plug shells:
000 979 019EA
000 979 021EA
000 979 038EA
000 979 225EA
000 979 131EA
000 979 133EA
000 979 982A

[Zaphh]

Thanks for this very helpful mail.

P.

[PanEuropean]

Photos re-hosted.

Michael

[phaetonenvy]

Thanks for all of your contributions.

I performed this install without much trouble (save the cuts on my knuckles due to threading those bolts with the heat shield bent back just enough for my hand to fit).

I should also send out a special "Thank you," to Stu for helping me to source and ship a towbar from the UK.

I can't wait to use my phaeton as a tow vehicle.

Thanks again!!!

Joe

[EnglishPhaeton]

Thanks for all of your contributions.

I performed this install without much trouble (save the cuts on my knuckles due to threading those bolts with the heat shield bent back just enough for my hand to fit).

I should also send out a special "Thank you," to Stu for helping me to source and ship a towbar from the UK.

I can't wait to use my phaeton as a tow vehicle.

Thanks again!!!

Joe

Glad to hear it fitted okay!! Good also to see you back!

Stu