you did good up till the part when you recycled the coolant. Just replace it, its cheap enough.good right up tho
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#1
I was having to put coolant in the overflow at least once every two weeks this winter, because of the flashing coolant light. I never found any coolant on the ground under my car and wasn't sure where it was coming from, until I looked and the coolant flange on the tranny side.
The red arrows point to where you can see some of the coolant leaking. It was worse on the backside of the flange, but difficult to photograph. Before you remove any coolant hoses get something to catch the fluid. I used a 1 gallon water bottle and chopped the top off, you can crush it to sit nicely on the tranny.
I remove the larger Coolant hose first and drained it into the plastic bottle. Do the same for the other coolant hose on the back of the flange. Remove the metal clips and pull out the old sensors one at a time and reinstall them into the new flange. Replace the old washers and clips. This is the sensor that faces the front of the car. The old clips are on the right, new ones of the left.
Here is the sensor on the top of the flange. Again old clips and washer is on the right and new ones are on the left.
You need to remove 3 nuts to free the flange once you have removed all the sensors and hoses. Then you need to wiggle off the metal bracket that attaches to the flange. Then you can remove the two bolts that hold the flange onto the motor. Here is what it looks like once you get he old one out.
You can't really see the coolant leakage on the bottom part of this pic.
Here is the new coolant flange with the sensors installed and clipped in.
Here is the new flange installed.
I changed the hose clamps from the pinch OEM VW type to regular screw type hose clamps. Then I recycled the coolant fluid back into the overflow. Here is the old coolant flange washer, you can see how flattened & crushed it is.
Should fix my leaky coolant problem. Hope this helps others out.
Rehosted pics....
Modified by tjm0852 at 1:04 PM 4-9-2008
Modified by tjm0852 at 1:08 PM 4-9-2008
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#2
you did good up till the part when you recycled the coolant. Just replace it, its cheap enough.good right up tho
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#4
Good DIY dude, every 2.0 owner needs to know about this; those damn plastic flanges break faster than a first-time S&Mer.
-Dave
#5
another place to look for leaking coolant is on the side of the radiator, there are metal brackets on the side that become slightly loose over time, and in the colder weather the plastic shrinks, so there are leaks.I had this problem, my mechanic said its common with the a3's and its not really worth replacing because its a large expense for such a small leak.
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#6
Thanks for the DIY, buddy.![]()
#7
i will tell you before anyone else. GET RID OF THAT GREEN STUFF!!! it will f up your motor. if you dont believe me. check out dan's DIY page. and then do a really good flush.
#8
Great DIY...if you add "To avoid warping or cracking your coolant flange during the install, tighten flange bolts a little at a time, DO NOT over torque (80 inch pounds)....it will be complete!![]()
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#9
Does anybody have pictures of this DIY....I am having this problem and would really like to see what I'm looking for.Thanks
#10
Quote, originally posted by cartercdad » i will tell you before anyone else. GET RID OF THAT GREEN STUFF!!! it will f up your motor. if you dont believe me. check out dan's DIY page. and then do a really good flush. Thats only if you MIX coolants, you can successfully use the evil green if you COMPLETELY flush the system.
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#11
I will upload and relink them now![]()
Friggin Hostdubs still causing me pain
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#12
pics are back up![]()
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#13
Quote, originally posted by hockeystar17mnj » Thats only if you MIX coolants, you can successfully use the evil green if you COMPLETELY flush the system.
Correct, mine came with the evil green and I am too lazy to flush the whole system, so I am going to stick with it. It has not caused me any problems.
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#14
I just did this flange on my 2.oL while I was "vs my ignition system".
My original was cracked on the inside, facing the block. The gasket has blistered and about useless. New one at dealership was ~$20, with o-rings.Replacing it is only tricky due the accessory elements around it, and draining the coolant is a PITA.
Coolant levels have stabilized for me since swapping it out.
My block was not discolored it was dripping.
#15
what is the actual name of this piece? my g/f car needs a new one because the plastic that holds the o-ring in broke and so the whole piece needs to be replaced...
Quote, originally posted by tjm0852 »
#16
That should go under the category of coolant flange. Got mine from germanautoparts.com --> Great people.I also replaced this a little while ago. I was always losing coolant, never knew where, it was also a slow week, about a reservoir every 2 weeks. I almost thought that it was a bad head gasket, but there were no other signs to simulate such a phenomena. One day I was at a stop light and ridiculous amounts of smoke were coming from under the hood, I popped the hood and little do you know that flange took a crap. I chuckled, kept a close eye on the temp gauge and drove home. One hour later I was good as gold and the ever so slow coolant leak was gone.
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#17
i made this exact same discovery about a month or so ago. Was leaking coolant but couldn't figure out from where.....finally noticed some dried blue coolant underneath this flange. Got a new flange and new gasket....my old gasket was shot! Replaced and coolant is stable ever since!I fixed my small oil leak today! Replaced my valve cover gasket that was weeping oil. Now i'm leak free!
Great DIY!
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#18
What would the direct part number be if I went to the dealer? I cannot seem to find this at napa or autozone
#19
http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty...x.htmPlease read the green coolant is very evil do not use it please
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#20
Just get it from the dealer. $8.25, with new O-rings and gasket. The entire inside of mine was chipped away where the gasket sets on the block side, previous owner used Permatex copper seal.![]()
#21
Nice DIY, the metal "hook" bracket around the coolant flange makes it a pain in the arse to replace. I had to play around with it for awhile.![]()
#22
NIce DIY, only thing i would add would be to use some fine sandpaper and clean off the block where the new flange will be up against it.![]()
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#23
the coolant flange is a pretty common point for vrs to leak from as welljust as easy to fix though
#24
Typical place.. it usually blows out the oring housing lol then it start leaking![]()
autocrats...
#25
Need to do this myself, you just made it about 100x easier for me now that i know what to do.
#26
put your cup under it. free drink!
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#27
What is the best way to get the circlips that hold the sensors in back onto the coolant flange? The replacement coolant flange I got from GAP had crappy plastic ones that broke immediately, so I was stuck using the old rusted clips. I had to bend them to get them to fit back onto the coolant flange. Is there some special VW tool I need for this job?
Awesome DIY writeup BTW!
#28
Uh, my coolant is neither purple green or blue..its orange. should i flush the thing out and buy some decent coolant?
#29
hah, well it's a: rust or b: you have dex cool in there.
If you flush it, make sure to flush it very well, as g12/g11/g12+ all like to turn into goo when they meet the green ****.
Any one else notice this thread is from 2005?
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#30
Excellent information. I feel safe driving my '98 K2 with all the help I can get here on this forum.![]()
#32
Well let's see-
They used blue coolant (G11) on earlier mk3's up until 95 or maybe 96.
They used pink coolant (G12) on later mk3's
They used purple coolant (G12+) on mk4's
Or you can use orange coolant (Dexcool) which is safe for aluminum parts and easier (and cheaper) to get. That's what I use. You really shouldn't be using the green stuff though.
#33
You really, really, really, need to flush that system and refill with G12
#34
#35