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    Thread: Older cabbie with A/C blower motor removal FAQ. 56K warning!

    1. 02-20-2005 08:28 PM #1
      So I'm tired of freezing (yes. Freezing is relative. When it's 50 degrees outside I'm freezing and want my heater! Yes. I'm a So. Calif. temperature wuss!).
      So I have to remove it. I looked at Mjolnir's FAQ and went out to the car to discover that mine is different. Not too suprising. His seems to have a neat hole with a cover held by 4 screws. Not so with mine.
      After removing the rain tray I discovered a huge monster plastic box. Thus:

      I noticed that on the driver's end there's a nut. In the middle there's a screw. At the pass end I noticed a tell-tale screw end sticking up, laughing at me and telling me that I have to crawl under the dash. *SIGH!*. Fresh air inlet. Notice the dashpot. Otto only pushes air through the defroster so I sucked on the dashpot tube and the big flap came up (recirc mode) so that much of it, at least, works.

      To get the screw out you crawl under the dash and locate it. It's above the lambda controller. It could probably be removed without pulling the computer. I opted to pull the computer. While you're there, look up and you'll see the two vacuum lines that connect to the inlet part of the big-rain-tray-housing-thing. The screw you pulled is on one end of the opening. There's another one. Pull that as long as you're there. You might as well mark the two vacuum hoses and pop those off while you're under there, view from under dash:

      Next pic is the hole in the middle of the housing where the screw was:
      The screw has a washer and then a grommet. Under the dash, a nut (DOH! Who designed this?). Once you loosen the screw the grommet will hold the screw tight enough so you can get the nut off without a friend.
      At the driver's end there's a nut. How convenient...heh...NOT! The nut attaches to a screw driving from under the dash (again? Yes!). However, it has a washer and a grommet and the grommet holds the screw tight so you can easily remove the nut. Pull off the washers and leave the grommet for now, as it will hold the screw and save you time.

      Once you've pulled the 2 screws holding the end piece, it will separate. I'm pointing to the dashpot.

      Now the end piece slides to the pass side and lifts out of the rain tray. You can see the hole leading to the dash and the two vacuum hoses.

      Now you should be able to freely move the main piece of the housing (except that you still have the screw on the driver's side held by the grommet). So get a screwdriver and work the grommet off of the screw. If you're careful you'll be able to lift the whole plastic piece off the screw without the screw dropping down into the pass compartment. If you succeed at this, put the grommet back onto the end of the screw and the screw will stay put until you are ready to put it all back in. Move the middle piece to the pass side of the rain tray and twist the bottom up to slide it out:


      And what to my wondering eyes should appear? The fan housing and speed resistor! Almost home!

      The cover just snaps into place. It lifts right out:

      Here's a close-up view. That screw has to be removed.

      Next you have to remove the strap holding the motor on. It's sort of wedged in and has to be snapped out. In this pic you can see that I've removed it and you can also see the driver's side screw held in place by the grommet. I'm pointing at the metal motor strap:

      Back into the car. Remove the fan switch, and the slider knobs (they all pull straight out). Then use a flat blade to pry the face off where the slider knobs were. Careful! There's a light bulb at the bottom right. If it's dead you now know how to get at it! Once the face is off, you can see the switch itself. Push from the back of the switch and it will come out the front. It's held in place by a small piece of plastic sticking out on the bottom left and on the right side by a spring clip. You'll need to push the spring clip in, then the right side of the switch will pop forward and you can work the whole thing out. Might be easier if you remove the cable first. Once the switch is out, pull the cable through the hole and get under the dash (again!) but this time on the driver's side. Shine your light under the dash while pulling on the switch cable until you locate the connector that it goes to. Disconnect the connector (ironically this was the hardest part of the whole ordeal!). Leave the wires from the connector to the switch connecter where they are, but follow the others. You will see that they go up to the motor. There's a rubber grommet thingy that is rectangular. I was able to feed the small end through the hole and then go under the hood and pull it all the way through. Now lift the motor assy up and away, pulling on the wires. The connector will hang at the hole. Set the motor down, back under the dash and push the connector through the hole. Then, under the hood, pull the connector free. Slide the motor all the way to the pass side and it will come out of the rain tray! Success!
      Now you are free to test the motor at will.
      Good news: my motor works GREAT and it doesn't bind anywhere.
      Bad news: Problem in wiring. Waste of time pulling the motor (except that I was able to create this FAQ!).
      Thomas

    2. n00b cocoman81's Avatar
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      02-20-2005 10:21 PM #2
      Thank you Thomas my 91AE closely resembles
      This Setup
      Ross

    3. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      02-21-2005 01:28 AM #3
      Thomas, been there done that, but you needed to clean the stators, and oiled the bearings....you won't believe how faster the motor will spin.
      Pic's look great,
      Briano [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
      Divorces, Great Coffee, and Electrics, all start with GOOD Grounds.

      Another Useless Ground Thread
      HAVE YOU CHECKED THE FAQ's ABOVE..PAGE 3 Thread 75? Why bother no one else does.
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    4. Member Black_cabbie's Avatar
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      02-21-2005 11:19 AM #4
      One for the faq! [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Btw, Thats the same for all cabriolets up to 93.
      Chip Tuning for a living @ www.microchips-tuning.com

    5. Member Moljinar's Avatar
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      02-21-2005 11:36 AM #5
      Thomas, mine is exactly like that! I purposely didn't cover removing the cover but left it as an exercise for the reader. It's not difficult but a tedious procedure. I was wanting to focus only on the motor repair.

    6. 02-21-2005 09:53 PM #6
      Quote, originally posted by Moljinar »
      Thomas, mine is exactly like that! I purposely didn't cover removing the cover but left it as an exercise for the reader. It's not difficult but a tedious procedure. I was wanting to focus only on the motor repair.

      Ah. Enligtenment. Well, I certainly got exercised...heh...
      Thomas

    7. 02-21-2005 09:54 PM #7
      Quote, originally posted by briano1234 »
      Thomas, been there done that, but you needed to clean the stators, and oiled the bearings....you won't believe how faster the motor will spin.
      Pic's look great,
      Briano [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      I haven't put it back in. That's on my list if it will ever stop raining. We topped 25" in 8 months yesterday. Usually get 9" in a year. Seems like it's been raining since before Thanksgiving. Thanks for the tip about cleaning and oiling. Sewing machine oil for the bearings? 30W?
      Thomas

    8. 05-31-2005 11:10 PM #8
      I am removing this big black cover right now. I have the left side with the flap removed. I have i have the middle and right screw out. I can lift the entire front of the black box (in the rain tray) but it seems like it is screwed or bolted in from the rear of the box. Does anyone know if there is a screw in the back of this black cover (the back meaning the part that is impossible to reach) Also, if there is a screw back there, is it the same as the midlle and right, having a nut under the dash?
      thanks

    9. Member Black_cabbie's Avatar
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      06-01-2005 06:29 AM #9
      Quote, originally posted by dsw »
      I am removing this big black cover right now. I have the left side with the flap removed. I have i have the middle and right screw out. I can lift the entire front of the black box (in the rain tray) but it seems like it is screwed or bolted in from the rear of the box. Does anyone know if there is a screw in the back of this black cover (the back meaning the part that is impossible to reach) Also, if there is a screw back there, is it the same as the midlle and right, having a nut under the dash?
      thanks

      If I remember correct, there is one more screw that you need to remove from inside the cabin. So, remove the passenger's sear and lie down on your back to find the screw.
      Chip Tuning for a living @ www.microchips-tuning.com

    10. 06-01-2005 12:52 PM #10

      Thanks. I kept looking and it finally did appear. There was some kind of varment nest in there.
      I bet that had something to do with the function of the motor

    11. 07-10-2013 11:52 AM #11
      i have all the screws and blots removed. the 'middle piece' should now move to pass side, tilt up and pull out. NOT! i can't get it to budge. seemss there is something holding it in place on the back side (toward car interior). the front will lift up very high. what's up?

    12. Junior Member
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      05-07-2014 09:57 PM #12
      Just did the motor pulled it out cleaned it, oiled it and put it back in about an hour
      Excellent, now when I find a replacement, it will be even easier.
      Thanks again!!

    13. Member
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      06-20-2014 08:29 AM #13
      While replacing the heater blower motor I dropped a 1.75" #2 phillips bit down the front side of the heater core. I cannot get it out. Can it stay there without damaging anything?
      Thanks for the tutorial on the blower motor install, very helpful.

      all of the foam gaskets need replacing under the black air boxes. Is there any special material that is recommended or discouraged from using? The thin foam that blocks air on the flaps of the black air box that open & close to allow recirc or outside air in on passenger side end needs to be replaced too. Any suggestions?

    14. Member rabbitnothopper's Avatar
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      06-20-2014 06:20 PM #14
      yes things inside of the "heater box" will be fine

      eventually it will worm its way down into the drain hose (passenger floor)


      leaves and dirt will accumulate in the heater box
      so a twig, stick, or phillips head bit will not have a big effect on anything

      BUT because it is metal there is potential that it will eventually hit something such as a heater core fin or AC fin and damage it so that it will leak
      but pretty unlikely


      as for the foam thing
      there is a writeup somewhere with pictures
      maybe briano has the answer


      there is another foam gasket which sits on top of the heater box between the raintray and the heater box
      you can use a foam tape here which matches thickness and width
      fyi the original ones will be about as brittle as dust.

      but in this case you need to phyiscally remove the heater box
      that means disconnecting the heater hoses and the AC
      so maybe you dont NEED to do it unless you really plan on doing some extra work
      Last edited by rabbitnothopper; 06-20-2014 at 06:23 PM.

    15. Member flying_oliver's Avatar
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      06-21-2014 12:13 AM #15
      Here is a how to that may help later on down the road: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...en-vent-closed
      Credit obviously goes to Briano1234.

      For the seal between the plastic cover and the metal rain tray, I went to autozone and purchased some door seal closed cell foam stuff that was sticky on one side. It was a little too wide so I just cut off part of it and it fit.

      I did not have any closed cell foam at my fingertips when I redid my vents and the recirculation flaps and all so I just used some felt and tacked it in with hot glue.

    16. Member rabbitnothopper's Avatar
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      06-21-2014 09:00 AM #16
      felt paper may last longer but will not be as rigid

      i have found you can buy $1 sheets of "rubber paper" from hobby stores which comes in different thicknesses
      this stuff will last a long time

      thx for posting up the vent thread for everyone

    17. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      06-23-2014 01:59 PM #17
      If you dropped the Phillips tip, One reason not to use them things... You can try to fish it out with a magnet. But it is likely stuck on top of the evaporator and not the heater core.

      You can remove the heater core without taking the whole shooting match apart see the link off of Kammy's site.
      I would get a small magnetic retriever (or tie a magnet to a line) and drop it down the rabbit hole and see if you can catch it....

      They used to sell small magnets in hobby shops that would lift about 10 pounds, and be as small as a eraser on a pencil.
      I would let it ride personally, it isn't going to get enough movement, and doesn't have enough mass to be a bother.
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
      Divorces, Great Coffee, and Electrics, all start with GOOD Grounds.

      Another Useless Ground Thread
      HAVE YOU CHECKED THE FAQ's ABOVE..PAGE 3 Thread 75? Why bother no one else does.
      You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make them click.

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