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    Thread: Broken Sleeve on Electrical Harness leading to Trunk Lid - How to fix? [TOC, Photos done]

    1. Senior Member PanEuropean's Avatar
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      10-04-2009 06:33 PM #51
      Jim:
      I think that you likely inadvertently crossed two wires, both of which have exactly the same colour coding (striping), but these two wires have very different functions. I made this mistake when I replaced my trunk wiring harness and it took me FOREVER to troubleshoot it.
      Please see the explanation of how this mistake can happen, what the result of the mistake is, and how to correct it - that explanation is on page 1 of this discussion.
      If all else fails - take the ferry over to Vancouver Island, I live in Sidney, and I'll try to help you sort it out.
      Michael

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      10-06-2009 04:04 AM #52
      Hi everyone,
      Faced with a mesh that started degrading:

      I first tried to put some tape around the mesh (after having cut the loose bits), but even though the tape was quite thin, the larger diameter did not make it through the sheath and this was strong enough to prevent the trunk from closing ! so the trunk re-opened and I had to remove the tape that had curled on the top part of the mesh...
      I then mustered my (totally inexistant) sewing skills, and tried to reconstitute the mesh with strong button thread.
      After one hour, the result is not wonderful (the original mesh is very tight around the tube) but up to now, the trunk opened and closed about 10 times without any problem.

      I don't know how the situation will evolve, but will keep you posted.
      P.

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      10-06-2009 09:13 AM #53
      Zaphh:
      This is exactly the solution I suggested, but which I have not yet implemented, sometime ago. I have some time available this week, so I will definitely try it also.
      Did you sew all around it, or did you try to bring the separated ends together? It is a bit difficult to see in the pictures, but I think you brought the sides together, which is what I had in mind.
      Thank you for being the first to do it.
      cai


      Modified by cai at 6:14 AM 10-6-2009

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      10-06-2009 10:59 AM #54
      I wonder if this would work if caught early enough?
      http://www.asseenontvguys.com/...D=678

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      10-06-2009 12:07 PM #55
      mhoepfin:
      The problem I see with this product is that it is very difficult to bring the sides together. And, you may wind up with a clump or raised surface. The tolerance between this conduit and the hole through which it goes, does not seem to be very big. However, you do say early enough
      cai

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      10-06-2009 05:37 PM #56
      Quote, originally posted by cai »
      Zaphh:
      This is exactly the solution I suggested, but which I have not yet implemented, sometime ago. I have some time available this week, so I will definitely try it also.
      Did you sew all around it, or did you try to bring the separated ends together? It is a bit difficult to see in the pictures, but I think you brought the sides together, which is what I had in mind.
      Thank you for being the first to do it.
      cai

      Hi,
      I brought the separated ends together after cutting the loose bits. I found it easier to take 2 needles, one to pass the thread, and the other to help get the first needle above and below the perpendicular threads, although I did not manage to weave through methodically.
      I tried to grab enough of the original plastic threads so as to not create too much tension on them, but you will see that the original mesh is very tight, so took me quite a bit of patience and good will to obtain this so-so result.
      I don't know how long it will stand. I hope I will not have to do it again more than once a year.
      If it degrades too fast, I may be tempted to simply remove the mesh and leave the naked tube...
      P.

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      10-06-2009 11:31 PM #57
      That's some serious Phaeton love.....
      I'd do it for mine too, and I may have to. I guess you could say a stitch in time, saves (or at least delays) spending about a Thousand dollars.
      Bill

    8. 10-07-2009 01:17 AM #58
      Quote, originally posted by PanEuropean »
      Jim:
      I think that you likely inadvertently crossed two wires, both of which have exactly the same colour coding (striping), but these two wires have very different functions. I made this mistake when I replaced my trunk wiring harness and it took me FOREVER to troubleshoot it.
      Please see the explanation of how this mistake can happen, what the result of the mistake is, and how to correct it - that explanation is on page 1 of this discussion.

      Thanks Michael. I printed off your pictures and notes from the first page of this topic, and took it back to the dealership. They were impressed with the quality of your photos, and have agreed to check it out again. But they are somewhat skeptical, because the light gets power through the wires when the switch is turned on, and loses it when the light is turned off, and also - if the wire is crossed with something else, then why isn't something else not working properly.
      I decided to simply let them work it out, since the repair is covered by warranty. I will keep you posted on this.
      Best regards,
      Jim

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      10-13-2009 01:08 AM #59
      Jim,
      What type of warranty do you have that covers this issue? I think a good number of us on the forum have VW Real Driver Platinum warranties on our Phaetons. The reports I have seen all indicate that this particular repair is not covered by those particular warranties.
      Bill

    10. 10-22-2009 09:38 AM #60
      Quote, originally posted by PanEuropean »
      Jim:
      I think that you likely inadvertently crossed two wires, both of which have exactly the same colour coding (striping), but these two wires have very different functions. I made this mistake when I replaced my trunk wiring harness and it took me FOREVER to troubleshoot it.

      Hi Michael - the rear taillight out turned out to be a short to ground on some connection to the tail-light, rather than the crossed-wires that we thought. It took them some time to find it, but in time they did, and it is fine now. Thanks very much for your assistance in working this out.
      Oh - and one more thing. Since you now live in victoria rather than Toronto, do you still advocate Summer/winter tires rather than all-season? I need new tires soon, and want to look at the most appropriate solution for Vancouver weather.
      Jim

    11. 10-22-2009 09:47 AM #61
      Quote, originally posted by 357Sig »
      Jim,
      What type of warranty do you have that covers this issue? I think a good number of us on the forum have VW Real Driver Platinum warranties on our Phaetons. The reports I have seen all indicate that this particular repair is not covered by those particular warranties.
      Bill

      Bill - I too have the VW Real Driver Platinum Warranty, and was successful at getting the repair made under warranty. I am not sure how or why, but it may be how it was "packaged" to the repair company.
      I seem to remember that somewhere in the warranty coverage exclusions, there was some mention of "electrics" or some such thing that was not to be covered by the warranty. Presumably this would be the wiring system, and not the electronics system of the car. However, my failure was the retraction mechanism itself. This in turn led to the severing of some of the wires in the wire bundle which caused some of the problems that I was having.
      But since replacing the mechanism involves changing not only the mechanism but also the cable, I got the full problem repaired. Under the Platinum warranty, they don't so much list the things that they cover, but rather they list the things that they don't cover. So since this wasn't in the list, it was covered. That's the way I see it anyway. If your repair company related the problem as a wiring cable issue, then perhaps it was declined "because of the way it was phrased", rather than for what the real problem was. You might try again, if this is the case. Just a thought....
      Jim

    12. Member kend414's Avatar
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      03-16-2010 10:06 PM #62
      I went to a vw parts website- entered 3D1 970 053 AJ for the trunk harness splice repair kit for trunk lids with the power close button. It states orig price was 349.50 discounted price 259.00 BUT DISCONTINUED! It's one thing to have a factory defective item that needs to be revised and strengthened but quite another to discontinue the part!
      What do we do now?


      Modified by kend414 at 9:06 AM 3-17-2010

    13. Senior Member PanEuropean's Avatar
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      03-17-2010 09:50 AM #63
      Quote, originally posted by kend414 »
      What do we do now?

      Well, the first thing to do is to not assume that simply because a part number is listed as discontinued on a single website, that means the part has been discontinued.
      It is entirely possible that the part number and part number suffix that you entered has been superseded with a newer part number and/or part number suffix.
      Best thing for you to do is go to a VW dealer, where you can get personal service from a Parts Specialist, and explain what it is that you are after (a repair harness for a Phaeton trunk). Bring your VIN along with you. The Parts Specialist at the VW dealer will be able to look after you far better than any do-it-yourself website can.
      Michael

    14. 03-17-2010 10:02 AM #64
      The only time I've had great service from a parts "specialist" was when I made an international call to Gilbert Lawson in Altrincham. I've dealt with several in the US, and every single one of them has been unhelpful and severely lacking in knowledge. On the flappy paddle call I made a couple of weeks ago, I eventually gave up because he was apparently unable to find the two trim pieces on the diagram.

    15. Member kend414's Avatar
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      03-17-2010 12:04 PM #65
      Michael, I may have come to an incorrect conclusion but it was really meant as a question. I'm hoping your correct in that the part number has been superceded. I agree it is possible but all the other parts I've ever entered have always have shown the superceded PN. I've never come across a "discontinued part" on a Phaeton part.
      As far as the local parts specialist ordering the correct parts for me, from what I've read ,a few have had the wrong part delivered to them several times for this exact repair. I've always obtained better information here than at my local dealer. They don't even know what a Phaeton IS and those that do, ask that you not bring the name up again.
      If someone knows the correct part number for this item, would you please share it with the forum.
      The original part number and a picture was shown in a previous post but it seems that number doesn't enter any of the VW dealers part websites anymore.
      Does anyone know if this part is indeed discontinued or has been supersceded? If so, would you post the new part number?
      I'd also like to know if the 2009 models in Europe use the same system or if it is possible to upgrade to the newer system.
      Thanks to all.


    16. Member kend414's Avatar
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      03-17-2010 03:51 PM #66
      Ok, it seems PN 3D1 970 053 AJ has been superceded by PN 3D1 970 053 AN. So it is still available from VW.
      Michael, I removed the website I had listed earlier but in all fairness to them, they are not as you suggested a "do it yourself " website but an actual VW dealership's parts dept. When I emailed them the email was returned from the dealership. If you want to know which dealership let me know and I'll PM you. It was one job I had hoped to escape and my anxiety got worse when I couldn't find the part.

    17. Senior Member PanEuropean's Avatar
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      03-17-2010 04:13 PM #67
      Hi Ken:
      There's nothing wrong with that particular internet vendor (1st VW Parts . com). They are well known and have a good reputation.
      What I meant by "do it yourself" is that when you go into an online business such as the above, you are "doing it yourself". If you go to a VW dealership and talk to the Parts Specialist, you get the benefit of all the knowledge that the Parts Specialist has. That's likely why you were able to discover that the original part number had been superseded.
      The parts specialist at my VW dealer has been there for 20 years, he is an incredible source of knowledge. The parts guys (and girls) are not simply clerks who go and fish objects out of storage bins, they are true specialists in their own right. An online vendor cannot and does not provide this level of service and this added value. That is probably one of the main reasons why the online vendor sells the parts for considerably less than the VW dealer does.
      Michael

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      03-17-2010 04:19 PM #68
      Btw, while this thread is revived, let me tell you that my sewing repair is still going strong...
      I keep my fingers crossed, but I can do with a 1h approximate sewing job every year (but we'll see how long this will last, hopefully more than a year).
      P.

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      03-17-2010 10:01 PM #69
      Just wanted to chime in. I completely agree with Michael. One point I would make about 1stvwparts though is that they have you put your VIN number in with your order. And match the part to your VIN.
      That said, I gave them a call and interestingly enough they are actually a VW dealer. I spoke to the parts specialist and they looked up the parts while I was on the phone. They gave me the MSRP and also their "wholesale" price.
      Best Regards,
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    20. Member HunterST's Avatar
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      03-18-2010 11:12 PM #70
      My nylon mesh was torn through for months, but about 3 weeks ago the plastic conduit tubing separated from the round ferrule at the lower end, and the trunk wouldn't close because the plastic tubing was getting in the way. I've opened a service ticket with the dealership here in Austin; they are ordering parts - I've got the VW platinum extended warranty, but I reported this problem before my factory warranty was up. So we'll see.
      After disassembling the unit, I am CONVINCED that the source of the problem is from the nylon webbing first fraying due to friction, and then once completely frayed through it bunches up inside the plastic housing, and interferes with the sliding action of the plastic conduit. I think it's wise to open the unit up and completely remove the nylon webbing if yours has frayed through - I suspect believe it's purpose is cosmetic, although it might be there to make the plastic slide more easily - not sure. Regardless, I see this as a design flaw.

    21. Member kend414's Avatar
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      03-20-2010 11:14 AM #71
      I agree with your assessment. My nylon mesh sheath has been separated from the ball end by 2 inches for 1 year. After the rigid conduit separated from the ball, the nylon mesh cannot be seen. I believe it is bunched up in the housing. I believe when this nylon webbing snags inside, upon opening of the trunk lid, the snagged mesh offers considerable resistance and literally rips the conduit from it's ball base. This nylon webbing has considerable strength. I've seen , albeit on a larger scale, the same nylon braid used as a tow rope. Our cars have protection while closing(pinch protection) but nothing when the trunks opens except maybe a fuse to the hydraulic pump. This is pure speculation on my part. I would think it important that VW advise owners how to safely close the trunk should this repair become necessary. It's an important safety issue as if there is an electrical short from the wires no longer being protected if pinched and the part of our tailights are no longer visible with the trunk lid open.
      I would like to know if current year models utilize our current system consisting of the rigid conduit with nylon mesh.


      Modified by kend414 at 8:18 AM 3-20-2010

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      07-14-2010 12:30 AM #72
      One wonders if one could replace the nylon sheath with a solid plastic sheath?
      Aren - When people complain and say they are green and you are not, remember they are just green with envy.

    23. 07-16-2010 12:53 PM #73
      I am having issues as well. My nylon covering has frayed and the hard plastic conduit/sleeve has separated from the ball and retracted about 3 inches. Wires are exposed near the ball. I am wondering how critical a situation this is. If I am careful closing the trunk and there are no electrical/wiring issues, can I continue to use this or should I correct the situation immediately?

      I have a few observations/questions:

      1. How exactly is the rear window broken? I presume the stiff plastic conduit/sleeve becomes trapped at the trunk opening and snaps/rotates clockwise (as you are looking at the car from the left rear wheel). On its upward clockwise arc, I presume it catches the underside of the window and cracks it. Is this the mechanism?

      2. If the window is cracked in this way, would it be possible to prevent this by trimming the conduit/sleeve so that is shorter than the trunk lid when fully opened, therefore preventing the impingement? You could tape the wires together near the ball and they would "dangle" down into the trunk when closed--but I don't suppose that would be a big deal.

      3. Is the retractible feature of the trunk wiring harness spring loaded or is it passively compressed by the combination of the force of closing the trunk combined with the stiffness of the conduit? If the latter, the solution outlined in #2 may not work as the wiring would then no longer be retracted into the trunk lid.

      4. How difficult is the job of replacing the mechanism with the replacement for the DIY guy? It seems pretty straightforward--only complicated by a lot of wire splicing. The part is $250 from 1stvwparts, but others have quoted a total repair job at a dealer of over $1000. Is that $750 in labor costs?

      Any thoughts on these issues?

      Thanks

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      08-26-2010 04:10 PM #74
      Hi everyone,

      A couple of weeks ago, I noticed that the stitch I did ont the mesh was coming loose, so decided tonight to repair the mesh again, one year after I did it first.

      Unfortunately, it turns out the mesh was badly worn out so rather than trying to stitch it back as I did the first time, I decided to simply remove it and stay with the plastic tube exposed.

      However, when I removed the mesh, I saw on the bottom that the tube was starting to part with the round ferrule, but I still think that I may be able to glue them together before they part away.

      My question is the following: how do you get access to the ferrule as in these photos:

      Close-up of tube and sleeve where they enter the ferrule




      I removed the screws holding the bottom of the hat shelf, but didn't see how to unclip the plastic lining that contained the ferrule...

      Thanks for any help on this.

      P.

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      08-27-2010 02:46 AM #75
      Pierre,

      I don't know the answer to your question, but I do know that my own attempts to stop the solid plastic sleeve from separating from the bottom ball/ferrule failed; I hope you have more luck.

      What I did was make a flexible collar from a piece of semil flexible tube and glue it over the weak joint - effectively a splint.

      I was quite proud of the result, and opened the boot several times to congraulate myself on saving myself the cost of the short harness.

      A few weeks later it had come away and so I had the short harness job done by Wolsey VW Ipswich, at just over £500. An out of warranty 'known fault' application to VW UK was turned down, to the surprise of Wolsey (they had successfully had all my doors covered for tiny bubbles in paint issue the common in the UK). Wolsey kindly helped out 50% from some special goodwill arrangement they have for loyal multi-VW owning customers.

      They told me that the short harness change went better than they expected, and was actually problem free.

      My general point being that it may be that you are trying to put off the inevitable.

      Herewith before and after photo's of my failed repair! You can see I went over to velcro to for the ferrule cover.





      PETER M

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