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    Thread: 8 valve Digifant Stalling and Rough Idle Thread to end all threads

    1. 02-19-2007 11:02 PM #26
      I just have to say that I love this thread.

    2. Former Advertiser
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      02-20-2007 10:29 AM #27
      Quote, originally posted by swmrdak79 »
      Lets bring this thread back.......
      My car is having a similiar problem. When ever I push the clutch in my cars RPMs bounce from 750-2500. I have changed out:
      Fuel filter
      Blue sensor
      readjusted idle screw
      readjusted throtle cable tension
      cleaned ISV
      new plugs and wires
      oil change

      Please help!!!

      same here - all the same stuff plus new water temp sensor and new o2 and my car runs RICH!! someone suggested MAF
      oh and parts
      http://www.bestpricecarparts.com

    3. 02-20-2007 10:42 AM #28
      Other things to consider:
      Throttle body switches - you have 2 switches on the throttle body - 1 for idle, and 1 for full throttle. All the wiring on those has broken on me at one point or another, so check that.
      The idle screw has an o-ring around it. It can go brittle and let air through. Sounds like you have sealed it with the loctite though.
      The throttle body innevatably gets gummed up; clean it out. The throttle plates could be sticking every so slightly open because of dirty. Also be sure to remove the idle screw and clean up the little air passages.
      To check for vacuum leaks, and I have to admit it sounds like you have vacuum leaks, take a propane torch and run it (unlit) along your vacuum lines, intake boots, etc. You will notice a surge in idle if you have leaks.

    4. Former Advertiser
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      02-20-2007 04:55 PM #29
      Quote, originally posted by hatter36 »
      Other things to consider:
      Throttle body switches - you have 2 switches on the throttle body - 1 for idle, and 1 for full throttle. All the wiring on those has broken on me at one point or another, so check that.
      The idle screw has an o-ring around it. It can go brittle and let air through. Sounds like you have sealed it with the loctite though.
      The throttle body innevatably gets gummed up; clean it out. The throttle plates could be sticking every so slightly open because of dirty. Also be sure to remove the idle screw and clean up the little air passages.
      To check for vacuum leaks, and I have to admit it sounds like you have vacuum leaks, take a propane torch and run it (unlit) along your vacuum lines, intake boots, etc. You will notice a surge in idle if you have leaks.

      my tb is clean and i did re seal my screw.

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      02-27-2007 08:50 PM #30
      I add vote for cleaning the throttle body.
      I had a horrible idle problem for several years. Up, down, up, down...stalled a lot too. Was hair pulling to drive it. I checked everything, several times. Then I removed the throttle body and thoroughly cleaned it, including the vacuum ports.
      It idles normally now and has improved the overall driveability, because it's no longer doing funky things during gear changes.
      Mike

    6. 03-14-2007 02:11 AM #31
      Quote, originally posted by wgriffiths2000 »
      I have a problem where me engine will die when the rpm drop down from switching gear but not every time some times idle kicks in at the last min any one know if the aboved stuff would fix that?
      P.S. This also occures on start up!!

      I'm looking at buying a mk2 8v jetta with these same symptoms. If anyone has but together a really good cure for this I'd like to know. It looks likes theres many ways to approach it, just curious if theres anyway to narrow it down. Also, when I accelerated I heard a small clicking noise, but not when I was in neutral revving the the engine. I also noticed a hard jerk when letting out the clutch in first, and reverse; bad motor mounts? Any ideas?

    7. Member Deutschbag's Avatar
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      03-14-2007 02:27 AM #32
      Best solution is to swap in a full 2.0 crossflow engine + management, digi2 is garbage. But I'm only replying to this with that comment so I can subscribe to this thread, cuz I can't afford a new engine and I'm getting terrible mileage and having kind of bad idle.

    8. 03-14-2007 03:16 AM #33
      ok all off us are not super car savy with all the parts(such as myself ....sigh), does someone have or could make a reference picture diagram with some arrows to where the possible trouble parts could be im sure that would really help out alot. oh and a real life pic would be better not and illustration [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    9. 01-02-2009 12:27 AM #34
      damn idle

    10. 01-06-2009 06:32 PM #35
      Quote, originally posted by supapowies »
      ok all off us are not super car savy with all the parts(such as myself ....sigh), does someone have or could make a reference picture diagram with some arrows to where the possible trouble parts could be im sure that would really help out alot. oh and a real life pic would be better not and illustration [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]


      I'm the first to admit i'm just shy of Neanderthal when it comes to labeling parts on the actual car.
      Then my uncle bought me a Bentley for Christmas. Don't have the car, but I kept the Bentley. (Figgered it'd come in handy again, since I've got this a2 virus...)
      Save up your pennies, buy a Bentley. (not only will it help with the "what step do I do next?" questions, it can keep the car from rolling down the drive while you're doing the repairs.) [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    11. Member ABA Jetta II's Avatar
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      01-06-2009 07:19 PM #36

    12. 01-07-2009 02:44 PM #37
      Where was this when I was trying to work on mine?
      I haven't gotten all the way through it, and my head hurts from all the new knowledge...

      I had to replace the sparks on my first one, and the guys at the store convinced me to upgrade to the splitfires. I drove back thirty minutes later for a new set of wires because I ripped the old one out of the boot trying to change the plugs. They tried to get me to upgrade wires, and I told 'em I spent my money on the plugs, so just gimme the ones out of the grimy box in the back.
      Then I took the air box off, lifted the filter out, and discovered the squirrel's nest.
      (I should mention that the car was not driving during all this time. I had gas tank straps to replace, a rotten floorboard that had me feeling like Fred Flintstone, no brake lines from the replacement of the floorboards, and a gas leak. The car got more mileage on the tow truck than under it's own power.)

    13. 04-02-2009 10:09 PM #38
      My 85 Jetta idled poorly (~750-1150 rpm when cold) until I replaced the fuel pump relay. This was a relief since I tried all the other previously mentioned methods with no success. And I was starting to think it was a fuel pump problem.

    14. 04-02-2009 11:26 PM #39
      Quote »
      Save up your pennies, buy a Bentley. (not only will it help with the "what step do I do next?" questions, it can keep the car from rolling down the drive while you're doing the repairs.)

      x2
      You can spend hours and days on the vortex and you will not learn half as much as this manual will teach you in about 30 minutes.

    15. 09-29-2009 03:40 PM #40
      i have a mk2 8v jetta and it idles really low and sometimes fluctuates from like 500-1500 i i dont think thats normal. also when the idle drops the oil pressure light comes on.
      If anyone could help i would be very grateful! [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    16. 09-30-2009 02:32 AM #41
      I am having horrible idle problems also. I have some hoses just laying around not connected to anything. I messed with the idle screw today and now my idle is around 1100rpm, which is better form 1800rpm.
      below are two pics of the two main hose and wire that aren't connected to anything. does anyone know what they are and where they go?


    17. Member Vinnyty's Avatar
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      02-14-2012 09:05 PM #42
      What a great thread from 2009!! Blast from the past
      07 B6 Passat 2.0 turbo - http://unitronic.ca Unitronic Stage 2 HPFP - High flow cat downpipe 3" - ABD Racingwerks intake Stage 2 - HPFPUpgrade.com Stage 1 HPFP - 142 Bar fuel Pressure relief valve - 5 zigen Oil catch tank - Autotech 3" catback - Adams Rotors - H&R Springs teamed with Bilstein Sports.
      http://i51.tinypic.com/153w51g.png

    18. Member laundryeater's Avatar
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      02-19-2012 07:07 PM #43
      I just put in a new fuel pressure regulator today. My symptoms were rough idle, inconsistent power, and having to pump the gas pedal to start the engine.

    19. Member
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      04-15-2012 09:30 AM #44
      Car has passed safety and is on the road,

      The car is stuttering/misfiring?/wandering idle (300-1200)/if i take it out of gear as im slowing down to a light, engine shuts off completely and the battery light will come on just before.

      Took the ISV out, cleaned it and put it back in, prior too i realized there was a tear in rubber hose leading into the back of ISV so i did my best to close it up with electrical tape for the time being.

      I had it at the mechanic for safety prep and he pulled the o2 sensor out and it seemed to calm down slighty. When my foot is down on the gas it calms down a little.

      Was really wondering how I should go about this, work from the distributor and go back? Really looking for any advice/insight if you've ever had a similar issue. Was also wondering if I should try another battery? Dont want go spending blindly

    20. Member
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      04-15-2012 09:32 AM #45
      Quote Originally Posted by Vinnyty View Post
      What a great thread from 2009!! Blast from the past
      From 2009, eh? Then why was the OP made in '05?

      Because Delorean?

    21. Member nhsccdp's Avatar
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      04-15-2012 09:47 AM #46
      Quote Originally Posted by eshort View Post
      Car has passed safety and is on the road,

      The car is stuttering/misfiring?/wandering idle (300-1200)/if i take it out of gear as im slowing down to a light, engine shuts off completely and the battery light will come on just before.

      Took the ISV out, cleaned it and put it back in, prior too i realized there was a tear in rubber hose leading into the back of ISV so i did my best to close it up with electrical tape for the time being.

      I had it at the mechanic for safety prep and he pulled the o2 sensor out and it seemed to calm down slighty. When my foot is down on the gas it calms down a little.

      Was really wondering how I should go about this, work from the distributor and go back? Really looking for any advice/insight if you've ever had a similar issue. Was also wondering if I should try another battery? Dont want go spending blindly
      The battery light will come on when the car dips below 500rpm since the alternator wont be putting out 12.6v or more... go through the thread and buy the bentley.... spray carb cleaner while the car is running on any place there might be a vacuum leak and see if it revs up... the ISV should buzz as soon as you turn the car to on and stay buzzing (feel it with your hand) if it is sputtering or not buzzing then replace with a new one...the o2 sensor being pulled is only masking the issue for the moment since it defaults the ecm to run the car rich...good luck

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      04-26-2012 10:14 PM #47
      Car seems to be burning alot of gas, I think I am getting 22mpg instead of 30 mpg

      Have a new CAT, new O2 sensor..

      I have a 1989 VW CIS Injection 16v Valve engine. The car just does not want to move in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear. On the freeway in 5th gear the car runs amazing, on the streets it misses and jerks like crazy....I need some help trying to troubleshoot how to resolve this issue. Hope someone can point me in the right direction.

    23. Junior Member BromptonRodeo's Avatar
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      04-26-2012 10:58 PM #48
      Quote Originally Posted by VWDubstep View Post
      Car seems to be burning alot of gas, I think I am getting 22mpg instead of 30 mpg

      Have a new CAT, new O2 sensor..

      I have a 1989 VW CIS Injection 16v Valve engine. The car just does not want to move in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear. On the freeway in 5th gear the car runs amazing, on the streets it misses and jerks like crazy....I need some help trying to troubleshoot how to resolve this issue. Hope someone can point me in the right direction.
      Sounds like you are running waay too rich. Get a new AFM. If you can't afford that, get one from a scrapyard. If you can't find one, then crack open the cover on your afm and adjust the position of the wiper arm. Only do this as a last resort. I spent most of last month trying to find the sweet spot with mine. If you do decide to do this search AFM wiper adjustment on google, there is a pretty good write up on the Samba.com. Just remember if you make it worse, it's your own fault!

    24. Junior Member
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      04-27-2012 01:11 PM #49
      Quote Originally Posted by BromptonRodeo View Post
      Sounds like you are running waay too rich. Get a new AFM. If you can't afford that, get one from a scrapyard. If you can't find one, then crack open the cover on your afm and adjust the position of the wiper arm. Only do this as a last resort. I spent most of last month trying to find the sweet spot with mine. If you do decide to do this search AFM wiper adjustment on google, there is a pretty good write up on the Samba.com. Just remember if you make it worse, it's your own fault!
      Thanks, I have a CIS 16V where would I locate AFM on it?

    25. Member syncrogti's Avatar
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      04-28-2012 09:21 PM #50
      Quote Originally Posted by VWDubstep View Post
      Thanks, I have a CIS 16V where would I locate AFM on it?
      this thread is for digifant cars (88-92 8valve engines), your 16v doesn't have an AFM. Search under 16v stalling, this thread won't help.
      Quote Originally Posted by Pineapplegti ! View Post
      100 mph are you serious ???

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