Like most of you I have been enjoying the nice weather outside. On Thursday I picked up a brand new set of spark plug wires from my dealer. Yesterday was a good time for me to replace them and while I was at it I took some pictures.
This is a complete DIY manual on replacing the Spark Plug Wires on a VW 2.0 engine with AEG engine code.
This DIY is given without any warranty. I am not responsible for any damages to your vehicle or to you that might have resulted while working on your car. Use this DIY merely as a guide!
TOOLS AND PARTS:
1. Spark Plug Boot Removal Tool
2. 10 mm bit
3. 10" socket extension
4. Various screwdriver bits and pieces
5. A set of Plug Wires. Part number: 06a905409L (Thanks Gary )
Many have requested to see an image of the plastic boot puller tool. This tool was normally included with the MK3 and down and could be found strapped to the prop-rod. Since the MK4's don't have an actual prop-rod they did not include the tool to the car...
The latest part number for the plug wires is 06A905409L which supersedes the original set from the factory which is 06A905409F. The latest "version" is a bit different from the original. The OEM manufacturer is Beru in both cases but the actual wires in the revised set are thicker than the original and include extra silcone wrapping around the wires where te wires are close to the intake manifold. Also, the boots on the "new" wires are longer and contain a silicone flex joint which will prevent you from breaking the silicone insulation when twisting the wires. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
STEP 1: Preparation:
1. Let the engine cool down. You will be working close to the intake manifold and the engine block so heat is something you want to avoid.
2. Remove the engine cover.
3. Take your time too look around things.
STEP 2: Removing the Secondary Air Injection Pump:
Note: This IS necessary in order to gain access to the coil pack which is right below the air pump.
1. Unplug the Air Intake (coming from Air Box) hose and the other hose going to the combination valve:
2. Unplug the power plug from the back of the Air Pump:
3. Using the 10mm bit, remove the 3 nuts at the back of the Air Pump brcket. Note there are 3 nuts located at 120 degrees apart. The third nut is somewhat hard to reach. Use the 10" socket extention. BE CAREFULL NOT TO DROP THE NUT:
4. Remove the air pump and set it aside. Make sure that you cover the two hose plugs so that no dirt can get to the motor of the pump. Those air pumps are expensive!
Here is how the wires are aranged on the coilpack and how things look with the air pump out of the way:
STEP 3: Removing the old plug wires:
1. In order to use the boot tool to reach down and get to the plug boots, you will need to unplug the injector plugs on injectors #4 (driver-side most) and #1 (passenger-side most). The injector plugs are black and have 2 metal pins. Press down on the pins and you should hear 2 clicks, one per pin. This indicates that the injector plug has been freed. Simply pull it out of the injector seat:
2. With the boot puller tool, reach down to the wire boots and unplug them.
3. Look under the intake manifold. You should see a series of plastic clips that hold the plug wires in place and at the same time prevent them from rubbing on the intake manifold and the valve cover. Unclip the wires from the clips:
4. One by one remove the wires starting with cilynder #4 (driver-side most). Be care full not to break any of the retaining clips show above. Also, be carefull not to put any strain on the fuel rail.
STEP 4: Installing the new plug wires:
1. The new plug wire set comes with some plastic retaining/separating clips. Also, the wires are labeled. You will see letters and corresponding numbers. The numbers are located close to the wire boots and the letters are located close to the coil pack plugs. So on the same cable you will see 1 and a corresponding A, 2 and a corresponding B and so forth.
Also note that the retaining clips that come with the plug wires will show you which plug goes where on the coil pack:
2. Plug the wires to the coilpack before starting to guide the wires under the intake manifold. That way you will not mess things up.
3. Start guiding the wires under the intake manifold one by one, starting with cylinder number 1.
4. After you plug each wire to its corresponding spark plug, clip the wires to the retaining clips. Do it one by one or you won't have enough space to mess with all of them at the same time.
5. The last wire to install is on cylinder #4.
STEP 5: Finishing touches:
1. Make sure that all the wires are cliped to the retaining clips and that they are not rubbing against the intake manifold or the valve cover.
2. Plug all your unplugged injectors!
3. Reinstall the secondary air pump.
4. MAKE SURE THAT YOU PLUG THE AIR PUMP POWER CABLE! I forgot to do that part and the engine came back with a CEL light. You will get trouble code P0411 if you don't plug your air pump!
5. Plug the two air hoses to the secondary air pump.
6. Check everything again and start the engine.
If it runs fine and the CEL is not on then you nailed it!
I know it is too early to say anything but I can definitely feel that the engine is running little more smoothly than before. The rpms at idle are little more stable and the engine revs up little better.
Hope you enjoyed it and good luck!