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    Thread: DIY: Replacing Spark PLug Wires on a 2.0 AEG engine. Pics inside!

    1. Member vasillalov's Avatar
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      04-11-2005 09:47 PM #1
      Hi all,
      Like most of you I have been enjoying the nice weather outside. On Thursday I picked up a brand new set of spark plug wires from my dealer. Yesterday was a good time for me to replace them and while I was at it I took some pictures.

      This is a complete DIY manual on replacing the Spark Plug Wires on a VW 2.0 engine with AEG engine code.

      DISCLAIMER:
      This DIY is given without any warranty. I am not responsible for any damages to your vehicle or to you that might have resulted while working on your car. Use this DIY merely as a guide!

      TOOLS AND PARTS:
      1. Spark Plug Boot Removal Tool
      2. 10 mm bit
      3. 10" socket extension
      4. Various screwdriver bits and pieces
      5. A set of Plug Wires. Part number: 06a905409L (Thanks Gary )

      Many have requested to see an image of the plastic boot puller tool. This tool was normally included with the MK3 and down and could be found strapped to the prop-rod. Since the MK4's don't have an actual prop-rod they did not include the tool to the car...

      Note:
      The latest part number for the plug wires is 06A905409L which supersedes the original set from the factory which is 06A905409F. The latest "version" is a bit different from the original. The OEM manufacturer is Beru in both cases but the actual wires in the revised set are thicker than the original and include extra silcone wrapping around the wires where te wires are close to the intake manifold. Also, the boots on the "new" wires are longer and contain a silicone flex joint which will prevent you from breaking the silicone insulation when twisting the wires.

      STEP 1: Preparation:
      1. Let the engine cool down. You will be working close to the intake manifold and the engine block so heat is something you want to avoid.
      2. Remove the engine cover.
      3. Take your time too look around things.

      STEP 2: Removing the Secondary Air Injection Pump:
      Note: This IS necessary in order to gain access to the coil pack which is right below the air pump.

      1. Unplug the Air Intake (coming from Air Box) hose and the other hose going to the combination valve:

      2. Unplug the power plug from the back of the Air Pump:

      3. Using the 10mm bit, remove the 3 nuts at the back of the Air Pump brcket. Note there are 3 nuts located at 120 degrees apart. The third nut is somewhat hard to reach. Use the 10" socket extention. BE CAREFULL NOT TO DROP THE NUT:

      4. Remove the air pump and set it aside. Make sure that you cover the two hose plugs so that no dirt can get to the motor of the pump. Those air pumps are expensive!

      Here is how the wires are aranged on the coilpack and how things look with the air pump out of the way:

      STEP 3: Removing the old plug wires:

      1. In order to use the boot tool to reach down and get to the plug boots, you will need to unplug the injector plugs on injectors #4 (driver-side most) and #1 (passenger-side most). The injector plugs are black and have 2 metal pins. Press down on the pins and you should hear 2 clicks, one per pin. This indicates that the injector plug has been freed. Simply pull it out of the injector seat:

      2. With the boot puller tool, reach down to the wire boots and unplug them.

      3. Look under the intake manifold. You should see a series of plastic clips that hold the plug wires in place and at the same time prevent them from rubbing on the intake manifold and the valve cover. Unclip the wires from the clips:

      4. One by one remove the wires starting with cilynder #4 (driver-side most). Be care full not to break any of the retaining clips show above. Also, be carefull not to put any strain on the fuel rail.

      STEP 4: Installing the new plug wires:

      1. The new plug wire set comes with some plastic retaining/separating clips. Also, the wires are labeled. You will see letters and corresponding numbers. The numbers are located close to the wire boots and the letters are located close to the coil pack plugs. So on the same cable you will see 1 and a corresponding A, 2 and a corresponding B and so forth.

      Also note that the retaining clips that come with the plug wires will show you which plug goes where on the coil pack:

      2. Plug the wires to the coilpack before starting to guide the wires under the intake manifold. That way you will not mess things up.

      3. Start guiding the wires under the intake manifold one by one, starting with cylinder number 1.

      4. After you plug each wire to its corresponding spark plug, clip the wires to the retaining clips. Do it one by one or you won't have enough space to mess with all of them at the same time.

      5. The last wire to install is on cylinder #4.


      STEP 5: Finishing touches:

      1. Make sure that all the wires are cliped to the retaining clips and that they are not rubbing against the intake manifold or the valve cover.

      2. Plug all your unplugged injectors!
      3. Reinstall the secondary air pump.
      4. MAKE SURE THAT YOU PLUG THE AIR PUMP POWER CABLE! I forgot to do that part and the engine came back with a CEL light. You will get trouble code P0411 if you don't plug your air pump!

      5. Plug the two air hoses to the secondary air pump.
      6. Check everything again and start the engine.

      If it runs fine and the CEL is not on then you nailed it!

      First Observations:
      I know it is too early to say anything but I can definitely feel that the engine is running little more smoothly than before. The rpms at idle are little more stable and the engine revs up little better.

      Hope you enjoyed it and good luck!

      Quote Originally Posted by MAG58 View Post
      Please consider your audience before saying something sensible. 80% of TCL drivers were actually banned from Formula 1 for being too fast.
      A turbocharger is a device in where exhaust gases go in, witchcraft happens, and then you go faster.

    2. Member vasillalov's Avatar
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      04-12-2005 01:50 PM #2
      bump for the people who missed it yesterday.
      Quote Originally Posted by MAG58 View Post
      Please consider your audience before saying something sensible. 80% of TCL drivers were actually banned from Formula 1 for being too fast.
      A turbocharger is a device in where exhaust gases go in, witchcraft happens, and then you go faster.

    3. 04-21-2005 12:00 PM #3
      Quote, originally posted by vasillalov »

      4. MAKE SURE THAT YOU PLUG THE AIR PUMP POWER CABLE! I forgot to do that part and the engine came back with a CEL light. You will get trouble code P0411 if you don't plug your air pump!

      Not necessarily! Air pump only runs on cold start... so if your engine was warm when you started the job, and warm when you finished... then leaving the air pump unplugged won't throw a code until the next COLD start.


      Modified by digitalhippie at 11:01 AM 4-21-2005


    4. Member vasillalov's Avatar
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      04-23-2005 06:38 PM #4
      Quote, originally posted by digitalhippie »
      Not necessarily! Air pump only runs on cold start... so if your engine was warm when you started the job, and warm when you finished... then leaving the air pump unplugged won't throw a code until the next COLD start.


      Modified by digitalhippie at 11:01 AM 4-21-2005

      Well almost!
      According to the Bentley manual,
      the Secondary air pump will be initiated for exactly 100 seconds upon cold start. On each subsequent start, the air pump will be initiated for only 10 seconds as the ECU performs emission tests!

      So yeah, even with a warm engine, there is a chance that you get the P0411 code


      Modified by vasillalov at 5:39 PM 4-23-2005

      Quote Originally Posted by MAG58 View Post
      Please consider your audience before saying something sensible. 80% of TCL drivers were actually banned from Formula 1 for being too fast.
      A turbocharger is a device in where exhaust gases go in, witchcraft happens, and then you go faster.

    5. 04-23-2005 07:39 PM #5
      nice writeup!

      Should be included in FAQ.


    6. 06-15-2005 01:46 AM #6
      Bump for a good writeup, not enough people check the DIYs

    7. 10-30-2006 03:32 PM #7
      hahah including me!

    8. Member vwtuner4ever's Avatar
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      10-30-2006 07:19 PM #8
      As usual, great write up man

    9. 02-22-2007 02:24 PM #9
      Thank you so much. This is exactly what I was looking for!

    10. 02-22-2007 02:30 PM #10
      Nice write up, now where is the one to change the sparkplugs/waterpump/timing belt at?

    11. Member vasillalov's Avatar
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      02-23-2007 12:03 AM #11
      Quote, originally posted by Moko7 »
      Nice write up, now where is the one to change the sparkplugs/waterpump/timing belt at?

      1. In my signature
      2. In the 2.0 FAQ/DIY Thread
      3. In the MK4 FAQ/DIY Thread
      4. In the Search results!

      Quote Originally Posted by MAG58 View Post
      Please consider your audience before saying something sensible. 80% of TCL drivers were actually banned from Formula 1 for being too fast.
      A turbocharger is a device in where exhaust gases go in, witchcraft happens, and then you go faster.

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      07-05-2007 04:13 PM #12
      This is a great writeup! Thanks vasillalov !!

      Are there any tricks to replacing the coil pack on the same 2.0 MKiV AEG?

      Seems like once the air pump is out of the way, it's just a matter of removing the pack too.

      Anyone have experience with this?


    13. 07-17-2007 03:20 PM #13
      I followed the instructions completely. Once you remove the Air Pump then you can remove the pump bracket bolts. Once this is done you can access the coil. There are no "tricks" it's easy.

      It is straight forward from here provided you have the correct coil for the engine.


    14. 09-14-2007 02:35 PM #14
      anyone know the gap for NGK plugs for the AVH engine?

    15. Member SMG8vT's Avatar
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      04-03-2008 02:22 AM #15
      Ok so I figured this would be a good thread to bump rather than cluttering up the forum with a new one.

      I installed new plug wires on mine, started it up and it ran like piss, so I shut it down. It turns out I accidentally switched 2 wires. I pulled the SC off tonight, fixed the order and it runs like a champ now, as strong as ever. Could I have hurt anything doing this, or is the ECU smart enough to not fire those cylinders?


    16. 04-05-2008 10:04 PM #16
      Quote, originally posted by pack-man »
      anyone know the gap for NGK plugs for the AVH engine?

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2157409


      Secondary Air Pump Issue...

      I'm having a problem putting back the connector on the Secondary Air Pump.
      It is the intake connect..The one which is connected to the Air Filter Housing. Does anyone have any tips on putting it back together or is there a tool which I should be using?

      Thanks


    17. Banned
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      04-05-2008 10:13 PM #17
      those pics are like the size of my wiener
      waaaaaay too small

    18. Member FlyBy's Avatar
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      04-06-2008 02:16 PM #18
      So, since the plug wires are metal jacketed, unlike the mkIII's that were rubber, you can't just get a good grip on the metal jacket and pull them off by hand? As long as you don't pull on the wire?
      Parting out a MK4 Jetta sedan. Galactic Blue. PM me.

    19. 08-13-2008 06:47 PM #19
      Hi,

      I have a 2001 VW Jetta GLS 2.0L (engine code AVH) and I want to replace the plugs and the coil. Plugs b/c the car has more than 40k miles and the coil b/c it's misfiring, but only when it's raining or foggy/humid...I suspect there is a crack, but I'll know when I check it out. In any case, where do you get the tool to remove the spark plug wires from plugs themselves?


    20. 09-25-2008 03:35 AM #20
      Great tutorial, saved me a lot of grief. I managed to get the plugs off with a pair of pliers wrapped with some cloth tape. Man that stuff is all crammed in there tight, finally got it done though and she's running much better now, thanks!

    21. 08-21-2009 01:58 AM #21
      I know this post is old but its according to the Bentley its the wrong order.

      Quote

      "Marked for ignition cables:
      A= Cylinder 1
      B= Cylinder 3
      C= Cylinder 2
      D= Cylinder 4"

      I know the wasted spark thing, so I guess it doesnt matter...or does it?




      Modified by seattle111 at 10:08 PM 8-20-2009


    22. Member FolksVagen908's Avatar
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      10-02-2009 09:46 PM #22
      THANKS so much! this is what i needed. now ma car is up and runnin ;P

      BUMPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP


    23. 12-26-2009 01:02 AM #23
      Thanks for the write-up. I changed my spark plugs today and was successful in removing the wire boots with a needle nose plier. I wanted to replace the set of wires as well, but couldn't figure how to remove/detach the wire from the coil pack. Do you just yank them out of the coil pack or is there a special tool for that? Can I just use some kind of plier to pull it out?

      Update: Nevermind. I used the needle nose plier to grab on to it and it pulled right out. Car's is running smooth with the new wires and NGK spark plugs.


      Modified by peterSR at 9:58 PM 12-27-2009

      2001 Jetta GLS 2.0 AZG engine

    24. Semi-n00b mkivbanger's Avatar
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      12-30-2010 12:49 PM #24
      Quote Originally Posted by seattle111 View Post
      I know this post is old but its according to the Bentley its the wrong order.

      Quote

      "Marked for ignition cables:
      A= Cylinder 1
      B= Cylinder 3
      C= Cylinder 2
      D= Cylinder 4"

      I know the wasted spark thing, so I guess it doesnt matter...or does it?




      Modified by seattle111 at 10:08 PM 8-20-2009

      So your sayn in the thread pic he has up the #'s on the coil pack layout are wrong or the wiring to the plugs is wrong? bc im having issues and need this cleared up for me thx
      The Only DUMB question is the one you Failed to ASK

    25. Member 04 2.slow's Avatar
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      03-14-2011 03:33 PM #25
      so is this also the same as replacing plugs and wire on different 2.0 models. I have a bev and i believe its the same but cannot find a write up on them im assuming its the same they look identical but are sold as different products?

    26. 06-26-2011 01:19 PM #26
      I have a 04 jetta GL 2.0. Engine code:BEV
      i am looking for spark plugs and wires.

      On ECSTuning.com they have engine code specific sparkplugs and wires.
      Ngk sparkplugs (PZFR5D-11-4) -$43.27
      ebay has NGK V-Power (BKR5E-11) - $21.99

      And similarly same thing with the sparkplug wires.
      Ecstuning has PRENCO for $48.95
      And ebay has some random stuff.

      Primary question is, should i go with engine code specific plugs and wires?
      Please help.
      Thanks

    27. Member that_vw_guy's Avatar
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      07-07-2011 08:34 PM #27
      Totally used this today! Thanks so much

    28. Member echokid98's Avatar
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      07-07-2011 11:58 PM #28
      great writeup man, we need more of these

    29. n00b
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      07-11-2011 11:33 PM #29
      Ok, so I followed the instructions to replace the plugs and wires on my 1999.5 2.0 AEG. I fixed everything back according to instructions. Now I get 'sucking' noise from the injector pump closest to the coil pack, I can also smell gas, it's as if the injector is firing but there is no ignition in the cylinder, strange thing is I have no CEL yet. Could this be a bad wire or dead spark plug? I had removed the connector to this particular injector to gain access to the spark plugs. Did I damage the injector? I am certain I have put the connector back properly. I have also confirmed the tip of this wire - The end that connects to the spark plug has a spark, How do I test a bad spark plug?

      Thanks!!!

    30. 09-21-2011 08:35 PM #30
      Quote Originally Posted by LWLawrenceJr View Post
      Hi,

      I have a 2001 VW Jetta GLS 2.0L (engine code AVH) and I want to replace the plugs and the coil. Plugs b/c the car has more than 40k miles and the coil b/c it's misfiring, but only when it's raining or foggy/humid...I suspect there is a crack, but I'll know when I check it out. In any case, where do you get the tool to remove the spark plug wires from plugs themselves?

      I know this is old but seems to be the exact problem I am having. If the car sits and there is a big rain storm or its very foggy it will misfire and not run. Then if I come back the next day it will start right up. I had the CEL codes ran and its misfire 1&3 but like I said its only at certain times so I tend to think it isnt the plugs. Did the coil pack fix your problem? My wires are fairly new and don't seem to be exposed anywhere.

    31. Member Vdub407's Avatar
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      09-21-2011 10:24 PM #31

    32. Semi-n00b
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      10-09-2011 06:18 PM #32
      Does anyone know what the specs are on the ignition coil for the 2.0 AEG? (2001 Golf)

    33. 11-29-2011 01:52 PM #33
      Quote Originally Posted by mkivbanger View Post
      So your sayn in the thread pic he has up the #'s on the coil pack layout are wrong or the wiring to the plugs is wrong? bc im having issues and need this cleared up for me thx
      Can anyone confirm the plug order?

    34. 08-04-2013 07:46 PM #34
      This might be too old, but I'm spending the next week doing all the maintenance my jetta needs. Are the pictures still available somehow? TIA

    35. Member
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      02-08-2014 06:39 PM #35
      I would also like to see the pictures for this... I have new spark plugs and wires.

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