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    Thread: EMERGENCY! correct torque setting for BBS RS' wheel bolts?

    1. 04-22-2005 01:48 PM #1
      Have got the wheels back from the powdercoaters and they are nice! Have checked the BBS wheel thread and it says to torque to 40 pounds/ft...this seems to much????

      is this the correct torque setting?? I have set them to 25 and there's still no click!!


    2. 04-22-2005 05:09 PM #2
      TTT already tried search

    3. Member COP TZR's Avatar
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      01-10-2006 02:29 AM #3
      bump..... where did the BBS thread go??


    4. 01-10-2006 02:33 AM #4
      Quote, originally posted by Veedub1989 »
      TTT already tried search <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://vwvortex.rely.net/zeroforum_graphics/mad.gif" BORDER="0">

      You apparently don't know how to use it then. Try the archived threads with BBS FAQ. I'm too lazy to do it but at least I told you what to search for


    5. 01-10-2006 02:34 AM #5
      40lbs.

    6. Member COP TZR's Avatar
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      01-10-2006 02:40 AM #6
      Quote, originally posted by Speed Racer. »
      40lbs.

      isnt that a little too much?? I thought it was like 25lbs?? 40 sounds like bolts are gonna SNAP.


    7. Member PDXGTI8V 2.0's Avatar
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      01-10-2006 02:48 AM #7
      sounds kinda high to me too

      Modular Wheel Inspection and Maintenance
      Two & Three piece modular wheels require periodic maintenance. You'll want to work out your own maintenance schedule, but here's an example of what the manufacturer recommends. Each Season disassemble, thoroughly inspect, clean, re-seal, and re-torque each wheel:
      Replace wheel bolts each season
      Wheel Bolt Torque: 1/4" bolts 15 ft/lbs. or 180 in./lbs
      5/16" bolts 20 ft/lbs.

      After thoroughly cleaning all mating surfaces with an appropriate cleaner, add a thin skim coat of silicone sealant to these surfaces, assemble wheel and torque bolts to recommended torque
      Install a new valve stem
      Add a thick coat of silicone sealant to the drop center area of the wheel and let it cure for 24 hours before initial use

      http://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html#inspect

      My 91 GTI 8V, original owner stylz, yo!: http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pdxg...%20july%202013

    8. 01-10-2006 04:58 AM #8
      its 40 for new bolts but less for old ones as they are stretched and will break at this poundage i can remember something about 25ish for old bolts

    9. 01-10-2006 05:12 AM #9
      Quote, originally posted by dubstarmk2 »
      its 40 for new bolts but less for old ones as they are stretched and will break at this poundage i can remember something about 25ish for old bolts

      That's the dumbest thing I've ever heard. So let me get this straight..if a bolt is stretched you should not put as much torque on it so that it has less clamping force? Can you explain that one to me please?


    10. Member eurobred's Avatar
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      01-10-2006 05:42 AM #10
      the whole 40lb doesnt make sense to me...
      because if you can dig that BBS FAQ thread out....
      it says 15lb tq for BBS RM bolts and 40lb tq for BBS RS bolts...
      so which is the real deal? we dont want people snapping bolts by reading the wrong information....

      R13 5
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    11. Member COP TZR's Avatar
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      01-10-2006 11:06 AM #11
      come on folks. I'm swapping out a pair of lips and cant afford to snap any bolts. The first time I rebuilt my wheels (used bolts) I snapped 3 bolts at the 40LB setting. I am now using the same bolts again which have been chromed.

      Who's got the true setting.


    12. 01-10-2006 11:14 AM #12
      Some guys local to me re-assembled some BBS's last summer. They set them to 20 ft pounds and they've been fine ever since.

    13. Global Moderator Matt's Avatar
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      01-10-2006 11:27 AM #13
      Quote, originally posted by eurobred »
      the whole 40lb doesnt make sense to me...
      because if you can dig that BBS FAQ thread out....
      it says 15lb tq for BBS RM bolts and 40lb tq for BBS RS bolts...
      so which is the real deal? we dont want people snapping bolts by reading the wrong information....

      The RM and RS bolts are different. The RS bolts are a nut and bolt system than I would imagine can handle higher torque than the RM Bolts which screw into the barrel and dont have a nut on the back side.

      Matt

      FS: Oettinger Type E 16 x 7.5, 5 x 100 with all 4 center caps. Perfect shape. Located in San Diego

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      I don't want the butt herp on my schwantz either.

    14. Member vr6swap's Avatar
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      01-10-2006 12:28 PM #14
      RM: 12 to 15 ft / lbs

      RS: 33 to 35 ft / lbs w/ Loctite

      Quote Originally Posted by 1.9..16vTurbo View Post
      you should stick to that car your trying to paint

    15. Member vr6swap's Avatar
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      01-10-2006 03:49 PM #15
      If you have a few stripped out bolt holes in your RM inners, they can be fixed with Helicoils. Wouldn't recommned this if it's more than just a few, though.


      The M7 helicoils can be ordered from Grainger, most hardware stores don't carry them.

      Quote Originally Posted by 1.9..16vTurbo View Post
      you should stick to that car your trying to paint

    16. 01-10-2006 07:04 PM #16
      The 40 number for RS's is in reference to newton meters, not pound feet. Someone threw that number out there without making sure what the unit of measurement was. At 40 lb/ft you can snap RS bolts.

      ***The correct torque for RS's should be about 30lb/ft (40 newton meter = ~29.5 pound foot)***


    17. Moderator The_Hamster's Avatar
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      01-10-2006 07:10 PM #17
      the BBS faq is clearly listed in the golf/jettaII faq stickied at the top of this forum.

    18. 01-10-2006 07:25 PM #18

    19. 01-11-2006 02:41 AM #19
      Quote, originally posted by madd92jettas »

      That's the dumbest thing I've ever heard. So let me get this straight..if a bolt is stretched you should not put as much torque on it so that it has less clamping force? Can you explain that one to me please?

      here it is??????but then they probably dont know what there talking about,lies it all lies


      Bolt Pattern & Bolts:
      Both the BBS RSs and the RMs have 30 bolts per wheel, and they are the same bolt pattern. 17s should have 35 bolt holes. Torque bolts in a crossing star pattern, just like you would do with lug bolts.

      BBS RM bolt torque is 12-15 lb/ft
      BBS RS bolt torque is 40 lb/ft
      NOTE: Some people have reported that when re-using old wheel bolts that they have experienced breakage to the bolt at 40 lb/ft torque specs. This number was provided by BBS for new and unstretched OEM bolts. Some individuals have suggested that 18 lb/ft is a more reasonable torque setting when re-using old bolts on BBS 3-piece wheels. Use these numbers at YOUR OWN RISK.


    20. 01-11-2006 03:13 AM #20
      Quote, originally posted by dubstarmk2 »

      Use these numbers at YOUR OWN RISK.

      That statement right there says it all. It's the friendly way of saying BS. I'm not trying to argue with you personally but think about it for a minute. If the bolt is stretched enough that it can't sustain the CORRECT torque then it is shot and should be replaced. That is my point of view.

      We don't have different torque specs ffor used head bolts do we?


    21. Member vr6swap's Avatar
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      01-11-2006 11:26 AM #21
      Quote, originally posted by dubstarmk2 »

      here it is??????but then they probably dont know what there talking about,lies it all lies


      Bolt Pattern & Bolts:
      Both the BBS RSs and the RMs have 30 bolts per wheel, and they are the same bolt pattern. 17s should have 35 bolt holes. Torque bolts in a crossing star pattern, just like you would do with lug bolts.

      BBS RM bolt torque is 12-15 lb/ft
      BBS RS bolt torque is 40 lb/ft
      NOTE: Some people have reported that when re-using old wheel bolts that they have experienced breakage to the bolt at 40 lb/ft torque specs. This number was provided by BBS for new and unstretched OEM bolts. Some individuals have suggested that 18 lb/ft is a more reasonable torque setting when re-using old bolts on BBS 3-piece wheels. Use these numbers at YOUR OWN RISK.

      I got the numbers I posted off a spec sheet provided by Pertsch & Partner, it came with the stainless bolts I ordered.

      So don't come off acting like I just pulled the numbers outta my ass, Skippy.

      See you around the campus.

      Quote Originally Posted by 1.9..16vTurbo View Post
      you should stick to that car your trying to paint

    22. 01-15-2006 06:34 PM #22
      Did this ever get resolved? I am buying a set of RS and am considering disassembly for refurbishing, but obviously would need to know the correct torque for reassembly.

      Can anyone give definitive information here?

      Thanks.


    23. 01-15-2006 07:30 PM #23
      Quote, originally posted by Veedub1989 »
      Have got the wheels back from the powdercoaters and they are nice! Have checked the BBS wheel thread and it says to torque to 40 pounds/ft...this seems to much????

      is this the correct torque setting?? I have set them to 25 and there's still no click!!

      22 lbs/ft with loctite. here is the finished product.


    24. 01-15-2006 08:34 PM #24
      Which loctite?

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      01-15-2006 10:05 PM #25
      Quick question. In the BBS Wheel facts, it states that when reassembling a 2 piece wheel (rm), that you thoroughly clean both surfaces, put the 2 halves together DRY, and torque down the bolts to 15 foot pounds. I've heard from a few others however that you need to run a bead of silicone between the 2 halves to achieve a leak free wheel. Which is it? I would assume that with a proper amount of silicone on the outside one should be fine! Let me know please!
      Derek

    26. 01-15-2006 10:18 PM #26
      Do you have a link to the FAQ or BBS wheel facts that you speak of? I have searched and keep coming up with nothing.

    27. Member
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      01-15-2006 10:27 PM #27
      This might work!! I don't understand how you can't find it however. Its like 3 posts above the one we are in!!

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1022742

      Cheers
      Derek


    28. 01-15-2006 10:38 PM #28
      Thanks Derek.

    29. 01-15-2006 11:13 PM #29
      blue. I used the lipstick type... not the dropper

    30. 01-15-2006 11:16 PM #30
      Quote, originally posted by GINCH »
      Quick question. In the BBS Wheel facts, it states that when reassembling a 2 piece wheel (rm), that you thoroughly clean both surfaces, put the 2 halves together DRY, and torque down the bolts to 15 foot pounds. I've heard from a few others however that you need to run a bead of silicone between the 2 halves to achieve a leak free wheel. Which is it? I would assume that with a proper amount of silicone on the outside one should be fine! Let me know please!
      Derek

      for my rs's I used no sealant on the mating surfaces.... just sealed to the space between the wheel halves. 3 beads each bead applied a day apart.

      Finished product with tire mounted.




      Modified by ChrisG at 8:19 PM 1-15-2006


    31. Member
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      01-15-2006 11:20 PM #31
      Quote, originally posted by ChrisG »

      for my rs's I used no sealant on the mating surfaces.... just sealed to the space between the wheel halves. 3 beads each bead applied a day apart.

      Finished product with tire mounted.


      Modified by ChrisG at 8:19 PM 1-15-2006

      Perfect!! Thanks man!! I'm assuming your tires don't leak at all?
      Derek


    32. 01-16-2006 12:57 AM #32
      Been just fine.

    33. Banned SoCal_GLI's Avatar
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      01-16-2006 01:11 AM #33
      generally we torque passenger car bolts to 40

      light trucks get 45

      big trucks get 80

      your best bet is to tighten them then drive 150 miles and then tighten them again


    34. 01-16-2006 01:05 PM #34
      Are you talking about LUG or ASSEMBLY bolts? He is asking for torque numbers for assembly bolts for the modular wheels

    35. 01-22-2006 09:30 AM #35
      Quote, originally posted by COP TZR »
      come on folks. I'm swapping out a pair of lips and cant afford to snap any bolts. The first time I rebuilt my wheels (used bolts) I snapped 3 bolts at the 40LB setting. I am now using the same bolts again which have been chromed.

      Who's got the true setting.


      I reused chrome bolts when I did my rs's, the process is a big headache taking each one to 40lbs, I snapped 3 or 4 bolts at $2.00 a piece and wanted to cry, I ended up taking them to 30lbs with no problems, have fun, I just picked up another set and am dreading the process of re-doing them, good luck



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