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Thread: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6

  1. n00b
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    07-15-2011 02:36 PM #211
    i am looking to get a new rod and i cant seem to find it on this website linked. how can i find it on here

  2. n00b
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    07-16-2011 01:21 PM #212
    ok so my car is making the exact claking noise everyone is talking about from 2000-3500 rpm. also once in a while like a day a week or so it over revs going into 3rd gear. it will shift fine into 2nd then it will shoot over by 1000-2000rms into 3rd then all the other gears are fine too. it is an automatic i was wondering if the intake shifter rod may be the cause to this gear problem too or what that may be? please get back to me asap i ordered my new rod and pauls bushings

  3. 08-03-2011 11:11 PM #213
    So if i have the older style rod can i change over to the newer style?

  4. Junior Member
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    08-04-2011 12:05 PM #214
    Quote Originally Posted by fuerte View Post
    So if i have the older style rod can i change over to the newer style?
    Yes. The new rod style is a direct replacement for the old. I did the same thing at the end of June.

  5. Member
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    2002 Jetta VR6 5-spd
    09-08-2011 11:44 AM #215
    Hello,
    We have a 2002 Jetta GLX wagon 5-speed 12V/AFP VR6 with about 148,000 miles and the engine is making the type of noise described in this thread. I would like to say the info in this thread provided by VgRt6/Gary and others is excellent - Thank you!. Ive spend considerable time searching both Vortex and the internet in general to determine if the intake rod is the source of our engine noise. I know these VR6 engines also can have noise due to worn timing chains, failing oil pumps, etc. I was wondering if there is a definitve test that can be done prior to purchasing a replacement rod (VW) and/or aftermarket bushings (Gruvenparts). I was wondering if the end of the rod where it is connected to the actuation lever can be felt for looseness and/or play? Can the end of the rod be held while the engine is running to see if the noise is less?

    Assuming the rod is the problem then Im on the fence between replacing the rod with a new OEM rod (~$85) or getting the aftermarket bushings for the existing rod (~$50). I see most folks say the noise comes back eventually (after 10-20K miles). What is the wisdom here?

    Thanks
    paul

  6. Moderator EPilot's Avatar
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    09-08-2011 01:24 PM #216
    Quote Originally Posted by mwr02jetta View Post
    Hello,
    We have a 2002 Jetta GLX wagon 5-speed 12V/AFP VR6 with about 148,000 miles and the engine is making the type of noise described in this thread. I would like to say the info in this thread provided by VgRt6/Gary and others is excellent - Thank you!. Ive spend considerable time searching both Vortex and the internet in general to determine if the intake rod is the source of our engine noise. I know these VR6 engines also can have noise due to worn timing chains, failing oil pumps, etc. I was wondering if there is a definitve test that can be done prior to purchasing a replacement rod (VW) and/or aftermarket bushings (Gruvenparts). I was wondering if the end of the rod where it is connected to the actuation lever can be felt for looseness and/or play? Can the end of the rod be held while the engine is running to see if the noise is less?

    Assuming the rod is the problem then Im on the fence between replacing the rod with a new OEM rod (~$85) or getting the aftermarket bushings for the existing rod (~$50). I see most folks say the noise comes back eventually (after 10-20K miles). What is the wisdom here?

    Thanks
    paul
    You can always take out the shifter rod and plug the hole were it sticks out the attach to the vacuum actuator. Rev the engine and listen for the sound. You can also use a shadetree mechanic stethoscope and touch it to the parts you think are causing the noise with the engine idling and see if you can narrow it down. Just be careful or moving parts. It works great and can really help to narrow it down.

    Here's more info on this shadetree mechanic stethoscope method

    Oh and if you waited too long to change the rattling shifter rod the replacing parts and other bushings might not fix the issue. When it's rattling it's wearing away the internals of the intake and the only fix then is to replace the intake. Good luck

  7. Member
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    09-10-2011 08:37 PM #217
    We were just doing some looking at our car and we removed the drivers side engine cover piece so we could see the vacuum operated lever that is attached to the intake rod. We started the car and reved it in neutral (5-speed) and did not see any movement of the rod/linkage. When is that rod supposed to move?

    Thanks

  8. Moderator EPilot's Avatar
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    09-11-2011 10:01 PM #218
    Quote Originally Posted by mwr02jetta View Post
    We were just doing some looking at our car and we removed the drivers side engine cover piece so we could see the vacuum operated lever that is attached to the intake rod. We started the car and reved it in neutral (5-speed) and did not see any movement of the rod/linkage. When is that rod supposed to move?

    Thanks
    Yes. It could be the shifter rod is bound up in the intake and that's why it's not moving. Unclip the shifter rod from the actuator and see if you can move the shifter rod be itself.

  9. Member
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    09-13-2011 08:51 AM #219
    Sorry I was not clear. I can move the actuator rod up/down by hand which makes the rod rotate. Nothing is bound up. But it does not move when I start the engine and rev it in neutral (5-speed). Is the rod supposed to move if you just rev it in neutral?

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    09-18-2011 07:23 PM #220
    Quote Originally Posted by mwr02jetta View Post
    Sorry I was not clear. I can move the actuator rod up/down by hand which makes the rod rotate. Nothing is bound up. But it does not move when I start the engine and rev it in neutral (5-speed). Is the rod supposed to move if you just rev it in neutral?
    Anyone know?

  11. Moderator EPilot's Avatar
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    09-18-2011 09:03 PM #221
    Quote Originally Posted by mwr02jetta View Post
    Is the rod supposed to move if you just rev it in neutral?
    Yes it will move if you rev in neutral.
    Check for a vacuum leak before you replace the actuator.

  12. n00b
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    01-16-2012 11:16 PM #222
    Are the bushings still being sold from paul still?Im only asking cause the thread is over 5 years old.
    Last edited by ULTRA-VW-ROD; 01-16-2012 at 11:26 PM.

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    01-17-2012 06:07 PM #223
    You can buy them here: http://www.gruvenparts.com/website/c...product_id=259

    Good product.

  14. n00b
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    01-18-2012 05:56 PM #224
    Thanks. I know of those. I want the ones paul made so i could have ones made a little larger then normal and i would sand to fit. I have 180k on mine and thinks its worn out to much.

  15. 02-13-2012 09:06 PM #225
    Thank you for this thread! I just did mine and it was super easy and I bought the upgraded bushings and installed them...NO MORE NOISE!

  16. 03-08-2012 01:07 PM #226
    How do I find Paul. The link is no longer active to order the bushings.

  17. 03-08-2012 01:12 PM #227
    Found it.

  18. Member JayDD007's Avatar
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    03-29-2012 10:05 PM #228
    i always wondered what that sound was but it wasn't loud enough for me to be concerned but wow i cant imagine it not being there...definitely getting these

  19. Semi-n00b
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    04-29-2012 03:12 PM #229
    All done! Thank you so much for the great write up! Helped me a bunch!
    VRalliance #105
    2001 12v VR6 - dead and gone
    2005 1.8T

  20. Member JayDD007's Avatar
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    05-01-2012 04:46 PM #230
    I was just talking to a guy that just took his out and it doesn't rattle is this ok to do? I don't want to kill my engine

  21. Member gti vr6er's Avatar
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    05-02-2012 02:34 AM #231
    Quote Originally Posted by cmVR6 View Post
    You can buy them here: http://www.gruvenparts.com/website/c...product_id=259

    Good product.
    Those took mine away for 3 months...that's it. Then it came back 5 times worse. Those are not the solution but more of a bandaid. Plus they're crazy overpriced for what they are. At least Paul has vortex pricing and will make different sizes for u depending on how much mileage is on the mani.
    .:Rob

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    05-02-2012 02:38 AM #232
    Quote Originally Posted by JayDD007 View Post
    I was just talking to a guy that just took his out and it doesn't rattle is this ok to do? I don't want to kill my engine
    Kill your engine?? From disabling/deleting the shift rod? Nonsense. All that's going to happen us u may feel some loss of low end torque. But I've been told people swear their upper end torque is better since they removed it. Just make sure u plug everything up so that u don't have a massive vacuum leak. I'm going to try Paul's oversized ones as a last resort before I totally remove mine.
    .:Rob

  23. Member JayDD007's Avatar
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    05-05-2012 06:19 PM #233
    What would you recommend plugging it with?

  24. Member gti vr6er's Avatar
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    05-06-2012 04:42 PM #234
    Quote Originally Posted by JayDD007 View Post
    What would you recommend plugging it with?
    Some people have fabricated a thin metal or plastic to just screw over it(like the other side). I have a spare mani so I'm going to use the cap on the other side that already has holes for blocking it off. I'd keep an eye on the classifieds and either pick up a spare mani for cheap or just ask for that shift rod cover piece(passenger side) for a couple bucks if they're willing to just sell it seperately. Let us know how things go. If u do block it off or have any other questions just pm me. Gl
    .:Rob

  25. Member JayDD007's Avatar
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    05-06-2012 05:15 PM #235
    Ok thanks a lot and luckily I have a part car with a 12v too so I'll just see if I can find it on that

  26. Junior Member
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    05-07-2012 02:59 PM #236
    I would suggest plugging the hole with a carrot or cucumber.

  27. Member JayDD007's Avatar
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    05-07-2012 03:34 PM #237
    Well I did it and so far it sounds ok haha knock on wood what did you guys do with that piece that was attached to the end that looked like it went up and down to turn it?

  28. Junior Member croftsco's Avatar
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    08-05-2012 12:10 AM #238
    if your shifter rod is bad, will you have less power and slower rpm gains. also it idles like ****.

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