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    Thread: How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV

    1. 12-16-2008 11:38 AM #76
      Bump: In another thread it was mentioned that polyurethane glue can be added to OEM rubber bushings to make them stiffer. This is a great idea to apply to the newer style axle bushes as purchased from VW. Fill in the voids effectively making them more solid, and perhaps more durable than Poly. So for those that are planning on this, it's an idea vs. going poly or spherical. Though from a price point, a tube of polyurethane glue and oem bushings come to the same amount as poly's and are a pain to install!

    2. Member glimark's Avatar
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      12-19-2008 03:43 PM #77
      hey guys well i found out my beams bent so i got a used one from vwunderground
      i want to change the bushings but i noticed a brake line that is connected to the frame rail and the beam
      heres a pic

      and i read the whole thread and is this where the brake line has to be disconnected?
      i remember in autos class back in highschool we used some kind of clip to block the brake fuild from being pushed back into the bake lines when doing brakes and instead go out the bleeder
      is this the right idea of going about this?

    3. Member 04VDubGLI's Avatar
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      12-29-2008 08:52 AM #78
      Does anyone have any thoughts on the spherical bushings for the rear beams? I'm going to need to put a new rear beam in my car... so it's likely to get either polys or spherical bushings. Anyone? [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    4. 01-20-2009 11:17 AM #79
      My car is in the air right now because I cant find a shop to press the bushing.. gotta find some dry ice or something. Lexus is $%@#ing at me because its not out yet.

    5. 01-21-2009 02:05 PM #80
      Use a ball joint press and squeezed these things in there. Talk about tight.. I didnt expect it to go in that hard.

    6. 01-28-2009 02:10 PM #81
      Thanks man I have a feeling this will help me. I bought a new rear axle beam and I have to buy the bushings first and I have been reading for 2 days now on what is the best brand of rear bushing/upsides/downsides etc. I looked at the ones you reccomended and they seem suitable but they are now $16.25. cheap cheap cheap... I'm sure if thats a set or for just 1 side. Also sfxperformance has energy rear axle beam bushings for $60.64 a set but no picture to see what they look like apparently the color of them are black (polyurethane? why not red?) ok...not enough info. bottom line I'm unsure what to buy and getting a headache reading about polyurethane bushings squeeking and drying out in 2-3 yrs. i just want to get this done.... whatya think?

    7. 01-29-2009 04:47 PM #82
      hey i was wondering why do this or how u can tell if they are cracked or broken. my rear suspension sound like crap every bump i hit its a big rattleing noise.

    8. 02-12-2009 11:48 PM #83
      nice [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    9. 04-14-2009 02:20 PM #84
      I have done this several times without removing the axle but you have done an awesome job.Now I know how it has to be done.Thanx

    10. Member
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      04-14-2009 11:32 PM #85
      Hey guys, OP here with a few added thoughts for you. Glad to see this is back from the dead again and still useful to people.
      Close examination of the orientation of the bushings will reveal an important truth....their axis is not horizontal with the car. The bushings are tilted, yet the axle by design must

      rotate on a horizontal axis...so what does this mean?? It means the bushings are subject to twisting forces as the axle pivots up and down. It undoubtedly has to do with some kind of bias the engineers were trying to create, most likely to affect some toe or camber angle during articulation. Bottom line -- any poly bushing back there is going to squeak, in theory, because of the way it is being twisted every time you hit a bump. This is entirely different than what happens on a front control arm, where the bushing's axis IS inline with the pivot of the arm. The two cannot be really compared.
      As far as why do this at all, that was covered in the original post. Crappy bushings are just....crappy. No one wants slop in their drivetrain, and VW's feel soooooo much better when everything is fresh. Plus the fluid-filled bushings are eventually going to leak.
      Finally, let me say I am parting out the car. So hit me up if you wold like to possibly buy this entire axle. It has 20th rear brakes, an Autotech hollow sway bar, hubs and bearings were new at the time of the write-up (only put about 15K on the car since then), and they have a stud conversion on them.




      Modified by RabbitsKin at 11:46 PM 4-14-2009

    11. 04-15-2009 09:21 AM #86
      Heres some spericals for the rear that I ran. I loved them

    12. n00b Himby's Avatar
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      04-15-2009 09:26 AM #87
      Quote, originally posted by th31nfamous &raquo;
      Is the [aligning mark supposed] to face the ground or the sky??

      I have the exact same question. The diagram in the Chilton's is the same as the Bentley, and I can't tell which way these things are supposed to be oriented
      I could have taken note of the orientation of the old bushings before removing them, but I didn't
      BTW, Great write-up!!


      Modified by Himby at 7:07 PM 4-15-2009

    13. 04-23-2009 10:25 AM #88
      Quote, originally posted by MK4FAST &raquo;
      I was having major rear tire wear, I was going through tires like oil.
      Les Schwab said I had a bent spindle or that my rear axle beam was bent. I was like yeah OK how did that happen?
      I have lifetime alignments at Firestone and my rear toe was the only thing that was way off. Toe specs for 337 or sport suspension are: rear toe specified range is -0.09 to 0.57.
      My Actual was Left: -0.43, Right: -1.44
      That is way off, Major tire wear.
      I just got done installing the Energy Suspension rear axle beam bushings part# 15.3118r.
      I did it without removing the rear beam from the car, I left the shocks hooked up, and took out the C-clips that hold the brake lines and one bolt on the passenger side that held a bracket up to the body, also unsnapped the lines from the plastic clips, I also unplugged the wheel sensor. I took out the rear bushing bolts and lowered the axle beam slowly and watched my brake lines so I didn't bend or pull on them. U might need to loosen the shock mounts a little bit, NOT all the way for some clearance.
      I used a cold chisel to get the stock bushing out, and then a hacksaw to cut the sleeve and then some hammering with a flat-head and the sleeves came right out.
      The poly bushings go in so much easier than the stock ones. Use enough silicone spray and they slide right in.
      Bolt it back up, but don't tighten the bolts all the way till u have the wheels back on the ground.
      I had to remove the shock mounts after I was all finished putting the poly's in to get the rear bolts to line up, One side went easy but the other side was a being mean
      Put your clips back in the brake lines, bolt the bracket back up, and then plug back in the wheel sensor. Use a jack under the springs to bolt the shock mounts back up.
      Put wheels back on lower the car and tighten the two bolts. ALL Done, time to relax
      Then U Need an alignment.
      I have already done the front control arms with the ECS Poly/Heavy Duty kit.
      My car is so much smoother on the freeway and it hugs corners like a brand new car. My car is 8 years old almost 9.
      Modified by MK4FAST at 11:48 AM 8-12-2008

      Hey, I've been told that I have the same problem with my 2002 1.8T Jetta Automatic Tip. The dealer says that I've bent the rear axle Beam , it's too far out of wack, can't be shimmed and it needs to be replaced, at a cost of $1200.00. Now I'm searching around here for solutions. My question is, once you've replaced the bushings in the rear axle beam, does it then straighten out the "toe in" or camber problem? I have the same problem with my tires, they have excessive wear on the inside 1/4 of the tread. My front end alignment is right on
      spec, so the dealer has blamed the problem on the rear axle. Did all of the work you did to replace the rear axle bushings straighten out your rear wheels and your
      excessive wear problem or was your axle really bent? My car has about 130,000 miles on it,
      with literally all highway miles, back and forth to work everyday. The car hasn't been off roading, so I find it hard to believe that we bent the rear axle, unless of course going over the occasional rough Chicago pothole will bend an axle.



      Modified by photousa at 8:37 AM 4-23-2009

    14. Member mariomega's Avatar
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      04-23-2009 01:57 PM #89
      Quote, originally posted by photousa &raquo;
      Hey, I've been told that I have the same problem with my 2002 1.8T Jetta Automatic Tip. The dealer says that I've bent the rear axle Beam , it's too far out of wack, can't be shimmed and it needs to be replaced, at a cost of $1200.00. Now I'm searching around here for solutions. My question is, once you've replaced the bushings in the rear axle beam, does it then straighten out the "toe in" or camber problem? I have the same problem with my tires, they have excessive wear on the inside 1/4 of the tread. My front end alignment is right on
      spec, so the dealer has blamed the problem on the rear axle. Did all of the work you did to replace the rear axle bushings straighten out your rear wheels and your
      excessive wear problem or was your axle really bent? My car has about 130,000 miles on it,
      with literally all highway miles, back and forth to work everyday. The car hasn't been off roading, so I find it hard to believe that we bent the rear axle, unless of course going over the occasional rough Chicago pothole will bend an axle.
      Modified by photousa at 8:37 AM 4-23-2009

      I'd also like to know since my rear end is out of spec. It used to be toed in too much and then I had shims put on to correct and now it is toed out. It's still out of spec but not as bad as before.

    15. Member improvius's Avatar
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      05-18-2009 11:58 AM #90
      I was hearing clunking from the rear over the last few days, so I took a look underneath. Sure enough, the bushings are coming apart. Will I be ok driving them as is for another 500 miles or so before I can get them replaced? Or do I need to keep it parked until then?
      you go numb in the numb in the teeth trying to chew that much salary

    16. 05-18-2009 10:28 PM #91
      3 comments
      1 The axle fits a regular shop press easily!
      2 this is easy to do without removing the axle or disconnecting brake lines
      3 Poly cant and doesnt work here!!!!!!!!!
      Dick Shine

    17. 05-19-2009 02:35 AM #92

      Thanks Dick/SRSVW for your comments. I'm confused point 1 and 2. 1) I should take the axle out to find a shop to press it out. 2) I should leave the axle and the brake lines attached. Can you give us more details? thanks again

    18. Member JAYMEN's Avatar
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      05-19-2009 03:35 PM #93
      I did this job a few weeks ago.
      I disconnected the lines and let the beam swing down so I can work at it.
      I used a chisel and hacksaw to get the old ones out, and I made a custom tool to press it back in.

    19. 05-21-2009 09:56 AM #94
      Quote, originally posted by 805 &raquo;
      Heres some spericals for the rear that I ran. I loved them

      Where can one acquire a set of these?

    20. 05-21-2009 10:31 AM #95
      i have a few sets left
      $200.00 each
      lmk

    21. 05-21-2009 05:17 PM #96
      could this what the rear clunk in my vr6 be going over small to large bumps in the road? It's more affected when I impact the pass side rear wheel...

    22. Member zak's Avatar
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      05-21-2009 09:06 PM #97
      Quote, originally posted by WS6Fury &raquo;
      could this what the rear clunk in my vr6 be going over small to large bumps in the road? It's more affected when I impact the pass side rear wheel...

      That or the upper strut mount. The latter is far easier to change, so you may want to start there. And you can't tell by looking if the one on the car is bad. But you can kinda inspect the axle bushing. If it's oozing oil, it's shot for sure.

    23. Member zak's Avatar
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      05-21-2009 09:08 PM #98
      Quote, originally posted by JAYMEN &raquo;
      I did this job a few weeks ago.
      I disconnected the lines and let the beam swing down so I can work at it.
      I used a chisel and hacksaw to get the old ones out, and I made a custom tool to press it back in.

      Could you please elaborate a little more--especially on the press you fabbed up? And about how long did it all take?

    24. 06-09-2009 11:50 PM #99
      I am in the middle of this project and I got my bushings at Napa Auto Parts. The only problem is that the bushings aren't round. They are oval and when I try to press them in they flex and pop out on one side of the other. Anyone run into this before?
      Also I have put together a list of sites to compare bushings:
      http://www.srsvw.com/
      http://www.fastaddiction.com
      http://www.statracing.com/
      http://www.tdiparts.com
      http://www.suspension.com/volks.htm
      http://www.germanautoparts.com
      http://www.worldimpex.com
      http://www.napaonline.com/
      http://www.1stvwparts.com/
      Some of these have already been listed and I am sure I've missed some, but I thought it would be helpful to have a list so one can shop around a bit.
      Also, for what it's worth I would say that the alignment mark should point to the ground as the picture shows it pointing down. I don't think they would have the picture upside down in all the books. I think this is oriented this way because there is less rubber on the top and bottom if oriented this way, thus allowing more vertical movement.

    25. Member Afrobandit's Avatar
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      06-14-2009 07:06 PM #100
      For guys who dont have a press. To get them out it was easier to hammer a smaller chisel through the back, into the rubber, hammering towards the inside of the car. It will eventually go through until it hits the metal on the other side. This way you dont chip your beam. Plus it comes out easier.

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