Edited for correct link
Modified by DbLog at 12:56 PM 12-15-2007
My fault on the link. I know what this writup is for..I replaced my rear bushings. Everything else I said applies.
Quote, originally posted by pair o’ dubs » That link is for the FRONT control arm - the rear most bushing in the front LCA. This write up is for the rear axle beam bushings. Totally different parts/writeups.
hi Guys. I am new in this forum and this is my first post.
I am replacing rear axle bushings. I bought some Energy Suspension poly bushes. Tomorrow i will fit the rear axle to its position but i do not know if the screws need to be tightened with a torque wrench. Can you help me with this, please?
PS. is there a thread where i can introduce myselt or i just start posting an that's all?
I am about to take on this project this weekend. After talking to a couple people who have done it. It can be done with out removing the beam.
Just undo the front 2 bolts and the long bolts that hold it to the frame and have just the shock bolts on also support beam with a jack.
After market polly bushings from
http://www.suspension.com/volks.htm part #15.3118
Oh my goodness... my back is almost broke from hammering on the lip of that bushing. I was thinking, hey I can just leave it attached via the shock bolts and try to get it out. I'm glad I did not because it needs a HUGE amount of force to get the bushing out.
Also, after pounding and pounding (still not out yet) I think I've realized that I DO have the rubber bushings after all (but I have been getting a major klunking noise back there, so it's gotta be the bushings fault).
Anyone else try to take out a rubber bushing? I'm trying to use my normal hammer w/ a crow bar and I'm spent! I'm going to go pick up a cold chisel and Big Hammer tomorrow.
the bushings have to be put in this way due to they are designed to go in that way and the bushings are angled to go into the axle mounts one way and if you do this incorrectly you cant get the axle back in and it is a absolute whore to get these bushings out and back in with out destroying them or throwing a tool and cursing the gods for making you so stupid for doing this wrong
Found this thread through google search.
I know this is a MK4 car, has anyone replaced the rear axle bushings on a MK3 Jetta?
I have an 99 A3 Jetta, that needs the bushings changed baded, it weavs on the highway and feel really loose when driving over the bumps, and when I push the car sidways at the rear door area, it swings sideways considerably, I can see the bushings are "gone" badly.
I am thinking to change them, however, the proportioning valve is mounted on the rear beam axle, and I could not figure out a way to take it off without breaking it. There are 2 screws that hold the valve to a metal bracket that is weld to the axle bracket, but that 2 screws are very soft, easily get stripped.
Has anyone taken the proportioning valve off successfully? What is your trick?
Quote, originally posted by enginerd » Btw the factory brackets that bolt to the car are slotted so that you can adjust even toe on each side.
Anyone ever verify this?
*edit: Bentley states "Individual toe values are not adjustable. Toe can, however, be equalized or balanced to a certain extent by by moving the rear axle beam mounting brackets slightly."
Modified by .:RyouExperienced at 3:33 PM 3-4-2008
Quote, originally posted by DbLog » I did it with the 'bolt and hammer' method. Made a 'custom' spacer to keep the bolt from going crooked while wrentching on it.
Modified by DbLog at 12:08 PM 8-24-2007
Thats the way i did it.
02 GTi 1.8T haldex'd w/35r-SOLD 7.3@102mph 27psi on 93 octane--04 A4 1.8T converted to AWD also- SOLD--'11 JSW Tdi 6speed Manual- Gone--
13' BMW 335i M-sport EBII
Has anyone tried other bushings like the Energy stuff? I know that FastVWs also carries poly stuff.
Regardless, what are the differences after the install
You play PC Video Games, click on this!
I inserted a new axle beam a few thousand miles ago with newer bushings. The new bushings seem not as heavy duty as what was on my car originally, 2002 GL TDI. The OEM bushings on my original axle compared to the newer bushings is like the control arm bushing verses the TT/R32 version. I was dissapointed when I noticed the difference but went ahead and installed them as I had no choices.
Poly squeeks, sphericals rattle/knock and wear... Not considered for a race car but street cars are different...
Just did it.. but i think i installed the bushing in the wrong way... Is the !lining mark" is suposse to face the ground or the sky?? I installed them facing the sky... the axle is bolted to the car at this time but the rest insn't installed. If i installed it in wrong position.. will I have a problem.. if so what it will be ??? Thanks again for this DIY..
Alright, my situation differs slightly but along the same lines. My rear axle is bent due to an a**hole in a Ford Countour. Not sure if I'll have to replace the bushings yet if I can find a donor axle with decent bushings.
But anyway, my question pertains to the time it took to drop the axle and put it in without accounting for the bushing install.
I don't have a garage to do this at home so I have to do it in the body shop I work in over the weekend. Im just curious to see if this is a feasible project for the weekend. And I'd also like to know what the torque specs are when installing if someone has them available. I don't have a bentley.
I was having major rear tire wear, I was going through tires like oil.
Les Schwab said I had a bent spindle or that my rear axle beam was bent. I was like yeah OK how did that happen?
I have lifetime alignments at Firestone and my rear toe was the only thing that was way off. Toe specs for 337 or sport suspension are: rear toe specified range is -0.09 to 0.57.
My Actual was Left: -0.43, Right: -1.44
That is way off, Major tire wear.
I just got done installing the Energy Suspension rear axle beam bushings part# 15.3118r.
I did it without removing the rear beam from the car, I left the shocks hooked up, and took out the C-clips that hold the brake lines and one bolt on the passenger side that held a bracket up to the body, also unsnapped the lines from the plastic clips, I also unplugged the wheel sensor. I took out the rear bushing bolts and lowered the axle beam slowly and watched my brake lines so I didn't bend or pull on them. U might need to loosen the shock mounts a little bit, NOT all the way for some clearance.
I used a cold chisel to get the stock bushing out, and then a hacksaw to cut the sleeve and then some hammering with a flat-head and the sleeves came right out.
The poly bushings go in so much easier than the stock ones. Use enough silicone spray and they slide right in.
Bolt it back up, but don't tighten the bolts all the way till u have the wheels back on the ground.
I had to remove the shock mounts after I was all finished putting the poly's in to get the rear bolts to line up, One side went easy but the other side was a being mean
Put your clips back in the brake lines, bolt the bracket back up, and then plug back in the wheel sensor. Use a jack under the springs to bolt the shock mounts back up.
Put wheels back on lower the car and tighten the two bolts. ALL Done, time to relax
Then U Need an alignment.
I have already done the front control arms with the ECS Poly/Heavy Duty kit.
My car is so much smoother on the freeway and it hugs corners like a brand new car. My car is 8 years old almost 9.
Modified by MK4FAST at 11:48 AM 8-12-2008
I don't see the pictures associated with this 1st post. Are the photos available anywhere else? I hit a high curb with the rear left wheel and since then my steering wheel is about 30 degrees off center and the car pulls to the right. I have a 03 TDI wagon and I am hoping that the bushing replacement will take care of the problem. What does everyone think?
DVF, it sounds to me like you bent something... If you jack up the rear, does everything look straight?
Also, if your steering wheel is 30 degrrees off center and you only hit something with your rear wheel then the rear wheel would be at such a sharp angle you'd see it just standing next to it. You're sure you didn't hit something with your front wheel too...?
Quote, originally posted by dvf2001 » I don't see the pictures associated with this 1st post. Are the photos available anywhere else?
I can see them just fine...
Im in the same boat right now...Just got out of the Hospitial...Had my car wheels lined up, And my rear drivers is turning in 30 deg. Like my drivers rear is taking a right hand turn....
I can grab a PRY bar and move the bushing to get it closer to spec...Did not see if the mounts have a slot for adjusting..(what years had the slott?) .If i could that would solve the problem i think...Its only 30 deg. All the others are fine, the passenger side is in perfect tollerences...
So question is....Did the bushings help out your huge rear toe in problem?
Are there slots in the mount for the rear on a 99.5 jetta? Its a VR6 GLS
I have no clunking what so ever...And my tire is getting a little scalping going on...Just the rear...
I'm going to throw it up on the lift in a day or two, when i can move again...But i am looking for insight?
Questions: Are the rear mounts slotted on 99.5 jetta? Can you just replace that side? Can you drill out the holes for more adjustment? Or add one from a newer car?
Did the bushing help your problem? Was there any play in the wheel before the bushing replacement?
I did go ahead and buy a new axle stub, thinking it may be a STUB, but i dont know how often these bend, and i was thinking more, would it not make a wheel bearing go bad if it was bent?
I also can not see any damage at ll, looks like a normal car...Again its 30 Deg. not much, you can see it if you look when the wheel is on..
Thanks for your help! Please let me help you!! Just ask!
Sorry for the bad spelling, Bad keyboard...lol
Thanks for the help!
If anyone i around New England that is good with the problem, Please let me know.. Money...Product...Computers, I'll make it worth your time.
Modified by Markhall at 12:38 PM 10-14-2008
Sorry to hijack a little.....
but please dont send this guy anything.. He IS A CROOK! Where R MY ROTORS DAVE???
he has prommised me my rotors for months now... i have even sent him money to send them back and have gottten nothing but voicemail...
please make this right,.... i dont want to have to take legal actions...!
Plenty of parts for sale!
Humm. My new bushing defiantly dont look like the ones you guys have.
These guys at Moron Falmouth better not have given me the wrong stuff. I'll have to go apes*@$ on them.
Modified by fiveseven at 1:36 PM 11-12-2008
Humm just seems like I didnt get something.. in one of the photos the bushing is on the outside of the mount.. like it has some sort of dust cover or something. I dunno. Probably just trippin
Modified by fiveseven at 1:52 PM 11-12-2008
OK guys, I haven't checked on this thread in a while. I just fixed all the broken picture links. I figured after they put this in the DIY section they would have a way of hosting the pictures permanently, but I guess not. Not sure why my picture hosting site alters the links over time, but who really understands the ways of the interwebz.
Anyway, pictures are fixed! Glad to see people are finding it useful.
I have had bushings for about 3 months now, and this idea just came to me...
My roomate picked up a harbor freight press a couple weeks ago, so I am thinking I will lay the press down on it's side and use it to press in the rear bushings, combined with heating the axle and freezing the bushings I think it should be cake. And a little lubrication also never hurts...
So, I've been trying to do as much research as possible on rear poly bushings... what is the verdict on them? I just put a new rear beam in and one side is toed in and the other out, so I'm going to need to get under there and try moving things around. Should I pick up a set of poly bushings and have at it? Are there any issues w/noises or anything w/them? Any feedback would be great. I've read a couple of scarce, mixed results leaving me more confused on the topic. Great DIY