I have finally fixed this problem after about 20 hours over 2 1/2 weeks!
The failed components were:
* Kombi valve
* vac line to Kombi valve
* the solenoid [N112]
* 50amp fusible link
* voltage preventing corrosion on the 111 relay and it's fusible link
Yeah that's everything but the pump itself!!!!!!!!!
Because there were some things that were not clear to me from the previous posts, let me attempt to add some more detail.
Yes everything can be done by unbolting the front motor mount and jacking the engine.
Remove the harness connector to pump. [You will grow to hate those 'wire release' connectors!] Jumper the terminals on the pump connector directly to the battery. Pay attention to the pos and neg as they are clearly marked on the pump. No need to strain to hear it run, it sounds like a hair dryer at full blast!
If it runs be glad and continue on, if not start looking for one.
Diag sequence w/ VAG-Com:
Don't remove mount or lift engine.
W/ engine off, select engine scan and then output tests. Toggle past injectors and evap control.
Select solenoid [N112]
you should be able to feel it click when you hold it in your hand. Double check its function by removing the vac line from the T to the solenoid and try to blow thru it. You should be able to blow freely in a pulsing sequence as the VAG activates the valve.
No blow thru or click - bad valve. Replace
Select relay 
you should hear it click or feel it w/ your hand.
no click, remove and clean posts [and receptacle]
still no click - relay bad. replace
you should also hear the air pump run in pulses as the relay clicks.
no pump - check 50 amp fuse in front of 113 relay. replace if bad and definitely SHINE UP ALL CONNECTIONS W/ EMERY CLOTH BEFORE RECONNECTING.
[I used the modded Buss fuse trick that lazyace posts instead of going to the dealer]
If pump doesn't run now and did run when performing test then the wiring btween the relay and pump is bad or the current is not flowing thru the fusible link. Test w/ ohmeter for continuity.
If all tests are positive thus far, then start the car for the first time now. You cannot test the kombi valve remotely, so that is the point of this trial. Pull the hose from the front of the airbox, start the car and listen.
The kombi valve sounds like the oil fill cap is off - the hollow pulsing of air moving thru the valves. It is plenty loud to hear! You can hear it even over [under actually] the hair dryer sound of the pump.
Can't hear the Kombi? Well, you have remove it test it properly.
Now the fun begins - remove the mount and jack up the engine.
Some notes of caution:
1. Make sure that you are using the correct size hex wrench, they are tight and you only get one chance. Those holding the pump are 5 mm and those into the block are 6mm [I think]. You will need the wobble style [ball end] to remove the actual kombi valve bolt. If you strip it by trying it w/ a straight tool, like I did all is not lost. You can remove the valve from the tube itself by the two other bolts. Like everything else about this job, it is a HUGE pain in the a$$ but can be done.
2. Those 'flexible' ends on the air hose are not flexible. DO NOT TWIST THEM, squeeze the 'release ring' [another genius piece of engineering] and pull them STRAIGHT out. Hot melt glue and electricians tape work well to repair them when they crack.
3. The pump must come out before the Kombi can be accessed and removed. Try to leave the pump 'out of the way' next to the rad instead of trying to snake it out, which is also a PITA!
OK now you can test the valve.
Now logic suggests that a vacuum actuated valve should hold vacuum, but not the case here - at least for me. Applying vacuum to the nipple will open the valve and allow for air to flow thru. A hand pump [MityVac] doesn't seem to be the true test here. It would not work w/ the hand pump. It did work, however, when I attached the vacuum hose directly from the T [not the solenoid]. The continuous vacuum from the running engine keeps the valve open and lets you blow thru it w/ your mouth, confirming its operation.
If no flow under vacuum - bad valve replace.
If it flows, reassemble everything and you have fixed your SAI problem.
Diag Sequence without VAG-com
Test pump as above
Test Relay 
With your jumper wires, clip to the battery and to the posts on the relay - 85 is negative and 86 is positive. With power to the relay, you should hear it click. Confirm function by using volt meter to send ohms across 30 and 87. If continuity is confirmed, relay is good.
Test fuse [under relay]
A visual inspection is not sufficient here. Disassemble it and clean all contact points. Test continuity w/ ohmeter when reassembled.
You should be able to jumper this as well from the battery to confirm blow thru, but I could not readily identify pos and neg so I shyed away from trying.
The engine, however, will send the correct voltage upon cold start, so merely starting the car and blowing thru [no need to suck fumes into your mouth!] should confirm its function. Still not sure, spend the $10 at the dealership and replace it.
Test Kombi valve
Try sound test above. Then remove and test w/ engine vacuum [as above] if needed.
Optional but highly recommended:
Throughout the above procedures you will, no doubt, need some stress relief. Feel free to:
*Stop and slam some beers.
*Find a heavy bag and go nuts
*chase down your wife/ girlfriend
Consider yourself fully intiated and bonded w/ your dub after you have licked this.