anyone got anymore good pics of the combi, solenoid, hose routing, or how to take everything apart? i'm having a hell of a time...
Quote, originally posted by veedub8422 » wtf is the 30a fuse? is it that metal jumper on the relay housing?
anyone have a pic of the 111 relay housing that shows where the fuse is? i couldn't find it. thinking maybe mine is missing.
Modified by veedub8422 at 3:01 AM 3-14-2006
Yes, the metal "jumper" is the fuse. Also, it's a 50a, not 30a like the Bentley says. Take the fuse off, clean it up real good to see it's stamped with '50A'. Seems lots of ppl replaced with a 30A several times only to blow them.
There are two fusible links in that location. One is below the coolant overflow bottle on the strut tower- That one is next to two regular fuses. The large relay these are on is for the radiator fans.
You're looking for the other fusible link- and the relay '111' is just above that. Check your fusible linke, could be bad.
BTW- that relay is like thirty bucks from the dealer.
EDIT: I replaced the relay, didn't fix the issue... replaced the solenoid and my SAI code is gone!!! The solenoid was only eight bucks (dealer) and they had four in stock. MUCH better than replacing the ~$400 pump or $200 combi valve. Now I can get an inspection.
Modified by z33k at 8:54 AM 3-22-2006
i wasn't sure if that jumper was the fuse or not. knew where it was, but wasn't sure. know wbout the fuses but the strut too but thiught they were part of a different circuit. thx for the help. i think my problem is the solenoid.
it actually took my code to clear after 3days, the system had to recognize that the combi was working. Did you make sure the combi held vacuum before you put it in? also check the vacuum line that runs to the combi, it could be pinched, I actually squeezed mine past the bottom of the manifold, theres more room in the back.
i replaced my kombi, all vac lines, and the solenoid. pass emissions just fine. i had to replace the kombi cause there was all kinds of
$#!% in it. apparently the neuspeed foam breather filter decided to deteriorate without telling me it was gonna do so... in the end, lesson learned. foam filters = crap and check THAT breather filter too when i check my air filter. oh well. my bad. bump for everyone else with this stoopid code.
I just worked on my 95 Jetta GLX VR6 SAIS today. I got the following code through Vag-Com:
00758 - Secondary Air Injection System (AIR)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground
I know from the fault there is an open or short in the electrical system but I am going to do some much needed maintenance along with the electrical troubleshooting. The vacuum tubes, I can already tell, are in dire need of replacement.
When I removed the SAIS intake hose (note 1) from air box and listened, during a cold start, I could hear noises but none that distinct. I could feel, ever so slightly, air moving in and out almost simultaneously. Also I checked for vacuum off the tee next to fuel regulator going to the SAIS. There was vacuum present.
To work on the SAIS, the easiest way, remove front motor mount lower bolt and jack up the front of engine on the bell housing as described earlier in thread. Be careful and watch out for the areas above the exhaust between the firewall. Also be mindful of the clearance between the intake hose (from the air box to the throttle body) and the firewall. You may have to remove or loosen intake hose from air box and from throttle body. Be sure to maintain cleanliness during this process when dealing with throttle body and MAF. Use rags to cover any openings. BTW I used my Haynes’s manual between the jack and the bell housing Lesson: get a Bentley!!
Here is what I did next:
1. Replaced all vacuum tubing with 4mm (5/32in.)
2. Ran output tests for SAIS components and the air pump (V101) did not come on and did not hear relay J299 click. Solenoid (N112) actuated (clicked repeatedly).
3. Pulled off the 2 pin connector to the air pump (V101).
4. Removed pressure hose from pump to combi-valve and inspected for cracks. Left removed for now.
(Caution) - Observe ground terminal location. I believe it was the top connector. Check for black wire on connector.
5. Ran 12vdc from battery to blower and checked for operation. It worked!! Woo hoo!! Mmm.. the sweet sound of me saving money!!
6. Inspected inline fuse for blower underneath relay 111. Actually, I "inspected" the lack of a fuse. It had corroded away completely!! Cleaned and shorted fuse contacts (for temporary testing purposes only). Will replace with 50 amp fuse later.
7. Reconnected ALL hoses accordingly, leaving SAIS intake hose (note 1) disconnected from air box.
8. Lowered engine back down. Ensured lower mount boot was seated properly. And re-torque front engine mount lower bolt to 41 ft lb.
9. Started engine and listed for change in sound from SAIS intake hose.
10. Result – Worked like a champ!
11. Reconnected SAIS intake hose (note 1) to air box.
12. Cleared fault codes using Vag-Com. Drove around for a while, then rescanned faults.
13. Drove to the bar for some much deserved beers!!
If you have any questions, please ask.
Note 1 – SAIS intake hose from air box to the air pump (V101).
Also for reference from Bentley (buy one if you don’t have one)!!:
The SAIS blows air behind the exhaust valve for 65 seconds during a cold start (+15 C ... +35 C engine coolant temperature).
Activation is initiated by the Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) -J220- via the First or Third Speed Coolant Fan Control Cut-Off relay -J229- to Secondary Air Injection solenoid valve -N112- and Combi-valve. After each subsequent engine start (up to max. 85 C engine temperature) the Secondary Air Injection system will (after a 20 second delay) switch in for 5 seconds during idle.
Edit: here is where the fuse is located and the type of fuse I used.
If you can't find an oem strip type fuse you can modify a large blade type fuse like so:
The oem strip style fuse looks like this:
Some good info to help clear some things up :
Quote, originally posted by golfgringo » OK
I have finally fixed this problem after about 20 hours over 2 1/2 weeks!
The failed components were:
* Kombi valve
* vac line to Kombi valve
* the solenoid [N112]
* 50amp fusible link
* voltage preventing corrosion on the 111 relay and it's fusible link
Yeah that's everything but the pump itself!!!!!!!!!
Because there were some things that were not clear to me from the previous posts, let me attempt to add some more detail.
Yes everything can be done by unbolting the front motor mount and jacking the engine.
Remove the harness connector to pump. [You will grow to hate those 'wire release' connectors!] Jumper the terminals on the pump connector directly to the battery. Pay attention to the pos and neg as they are clearly marked on the pump. No need to strain to hear it run, it sounds like a hair dryer at full blast!
If it runs be glad and continue on, if not start looking for one.
Diag sequence w/ VAG-Com:
Don't remove mount or lift engine.
W/ engine off, select engine scan and then output tests. Toggle past injectors and evap control.
Select solenoid [N112]
you should be able to feel it click when you hold it in your hand. Double check its function by removing the vac line from the T to the solenoid and try to blow thru it. You should be able to blow freely in a pulsing sequence as the VAG activates the valve.
No blow thru or click - bad valve. Replace
Select relay 
you should hear it click or feel it w/ your hand.
no click, remove and clean posts [and receptacle]
still no click - relay bad. replace
you should also hear the air pump run in pulses as the relay clicks.
no pump - check 50 amp fuse in front of 113 relay. replace if bad and definitely SHINE UP ALL CONNECTIONS W/ EMERY CLOTH BEFORE RECONNECTING.
[I used the modded Buss fuse trick that lazyace posts instead of going to the dealer]
If pump doesn't run now and did run when performing test then the wiring btween the relay and pump is bad or the current is not flowing thru the fusible link. Test w/ ohmeter for continuity.
If all tests are positive thus far, then start the car for the first time now. You cannot test the kombi valve remotely, so that is the point of this trial. Pull the hose from the front of the airbox, start the car and listen.
The kombi valve sounds like the oil fill cap is off - the hollow pulsing of air moving thru the valves. It is plenty loud to hear! You can hear it even over [under actually] the hair dryer sound of the pump.
Can't hear the Kombi? Well, you have remove it test it properly.
Now the fun begins - remove the mount and jack up the engine.
Some notes of caution:
1. Make sure that you are using the correct size hex wrench, they are tight and you only get one chance. Those holding the pump are 5 mm and those into the block are 6mm [I think]. You will need the wobble style [ball end] to remove the actual kombi valve bolt. If you strip it by trying it w/ a straight tool, like I did all is not lost. You can remove the valve from the tube itself by the two other bolts. Like everything else about this job, it is a HUGE pain in the a$$ but can be done.
2. Those 'flexible' ends on the air hose are not flexible. DO NOT TWIST THEM, squeeze the 'release ring' [another genius piece of engineering] and pull them STRAIGHT out. Hot melt glue and electricians tape work well to repair them when they crack.
3. The pump must come out before the Kombi can be accessed and removed. Try to leave the pump 'out of the way' next to the rad instead of trying to snake it out, which is also a PITA!
OK now you can test the valve.
Now logic suggests that a vacuum actuated valve should hold vacuum, but not the case here - at least for me. Applying vacuum to the nipple will open the valve and allow for air to flow thru. A hand pump [MityVac] doesn't seem to be the true test here. It would not work w/ the hand pump. It did work, however, when I attached the vacuum hose directly from the T [not the solenoid]. The continuous vacuum from the running engine keeps the valve open and lets you blow thru it w/ your mouth, confirming its operation.
If no flow under vacuum - bad valve replace.
If it flows, reassemble everything and you have fixed your SAI problem.
Diag Sequence without VAG-com
Test pump as above
Test Relay 
With your jumper wires, clip to the battery and to the posts on the relay - 85 is negative and 86 is positive. With power to the relay, you should hear it click. Confirm function by using volt meter to send ohms across 30 and 87. If continuity is confirmed, relay is good.
Test fuse [under relay]
A visual inspection is not sufficient here. Disassemble it and clean all contact points. Test continuity w/ ohmeter when reassembled.
You should be able to jumper this as well from the battery to confirm blow thru, but I could not readily identify pos and neg so I shyed away from trying.
The engine, however, will send the correct voltage upon cold start, so merely starting the car and blowing thru [no need to suck fumes into your mouth!] should confirm its function. Still not sure, spend the $10 at the dealership and replace it.
Test Kombi valve
Try sound test above. Then remove and test w/ engine vacuum [as above] if needed.
Optional but highly recommended:
Throughout the above procedures you will, no doubt, need some stress relief. Feel free to:
*Stop and slam some beers.
*Find a heavy bag and go nuts
*chase down your wife/ girlfriend
Consider yourself fully intiated and bonded w/ your dub after you have licked this.
Last edited by lazyace; 03-04-2014 at 09:05 PM. Reason: Update Links
ok so when i bought my car there was no sai installed.
the previous owner was a mechanic and purposely took it and the cat off to get past some smog control.
i live in florida, so no emissions, but does this affect my engine other than having a constant CEL?
i hear people say it does and it doesnt.
anybody with any knowledge or experience with this please respond.
The Secondary Air Injection system blows in air behind the exhaust valve for 65 seconds during the cold start (+15 C ... +35 C engine coolant temperature). This produces an Oxygen rich exhaust gas, causes afterburning and reduces the heat-up time for the three-way catalyst. (catalytic converter)
In short form.... yes. You would be safe, I believe, to run without it. You will most definitely produce greater emissions although. I would understand though; putting the system back on costs a decent amount of money.
As for the other Q: I don't think you will get an answer on how to "reprogram" the CEL even if there is a way. That could be bad if people used it to sell "working" cars. I'm not implying you but others who read this post.
ok, so I am in Tampa , Fl and we do not have emissions testing. I have been puting together my VR6 and found that my SAI hole on the Head is plugged. I have the SAI which I am going to check it to see if it all works right and if it does I was thinking of hooking it back up cause it will drive me crazy to have the CEL on constantly. What is the best way to unplug it? My motor is sitting on an engine stand about 95% rebuilt, do I have to take it apart to unplug it?
Sorry if the pics are big...Still trying to learn this HTML Stuff.
Thanks for any and all help you can give me... [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
i've heard of that. i've seen screw in plug bolts for the sai before for sale at some tuning shops online. those looked like actual bolts u could take out with little trouble. yours looks a lot like the kind u might have to drill out, but it's hard to tell from the pic. i'm not gonna pretend to be a mechanic, but it looks like u might have to drill it and/or take it back apart to get that puppy out.
nice lookin engine tho [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
i hear ya on the CEL mine drives me crazy cause i never know for sure if something else besides the sai is giving it codes unless i hook it up to a scanner
Modified by captain coordination at 8:42 AM 4-28-2006
Thanks Capt, I spoke with a buddy of mine and he said it is the kind that I will have to screw out. He said it shouldn't be too bad. Now I have to make sure that the SAI is actually working right before I go through all of that. Thanks for the help and the compliment [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
I think this may be a problem.
I've already replaced the solenoid and new tubing. The CEL has been coming on and off the past couple of weeks right at start up. The air pump still runs and you can feel the combi valve sucking. I cleaned off the 111 relay and the light went away and then it came back on. The pump still runs, due to the hose breaking I took the relay out though so it doesn't come on. I need to now get a new hose and I'm gonna check the 50a fuse.
How to do you get this sucker off? I tried to twist it and pull it off but that's not working.
Modified by dubiousdub at 1:23 PM 5-2-2006
mine broke too. Those little connectors are the anti-christ.
wonder how much it'll be to replace. You can ghetto rig it by removing the two connectors. They are actually barbed connectors once you cut off that cheap plastic hose. Then put some other sort of hose on there. Heater hose didn't work too good because the bends are so severe it just crimped. Maybe garden hose ?
I'm the host of the GTI-VR6 List and Wiki and I drove in the 24 Hours of LeMons at : Altamont:2006, 2007, 2008 Fernley:2009 and Sears Point:2010 with Boxwrench Garage -- in the first ever Saab in Lemons
Thanks for the assistance. My neighbor helped me out, it is a freeze plug which we were wble to get out. Thanks for the compliment. I think it is looking good too, I just hope it runs well when we put it in!!! [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]