The other solenoid is for the intake shifter rod on the AFP 12v engine. It switches intake runners to improve torque at lower and higher RPMs by rotating the shifter rod.
UPDATE: 4/7/09: I take back what I said below about the 58 Ohm. The AllData book might be wrong and that my solenoid checking out at 58 Ohm may be correct. I do not know yet, so don't rely on these numbers to determine if the solenoid is bad.
Before you guys start replacing your SAI Solenoid, you guys need to know which part to replace! I think there's a few solenoid in there. According to this thread, page 1, someone mentioned 1K0 906 283, and I bought it, replaced it, but my CEL came on after half a week of driving. My friend mechanic told me that he sees another solenoid. My friend mechanic printed out the AllData Online information (it's a paid service), it specifically said for P0411, you need to test the SAI Solenoid Valve (N112). The resistance should be between 25.0 to 35.0 Ohms. Turns out, my buddy pulled out part 1j0 906 283 b. (My friend mechanic was pretty confident that N112 FOR MY CAR corresponded to part 1j0 906 283 b) We tested it to give 58 Ohms, which is outside of the spec of 25 to 35 Ohms. He also ran 12Volt across the terminals of the solenoid, 1j0 906 283 b, carefully (so you don't short your battery), and the solenoid did not Click. He said the solenoid should click. We suspect 1j0 906 283 b is defective.
Lesson I learned is that, Instead of taking the Combi Valve out, simple go under the car, and carefully take the Solenoids out and test them. It's very easy to locate. under the car, front most (take out the plastic), and it's front center, right behind the fan!! It's next to the oil filter according to my memory. There's a lower and a higher solenoid. While your at it, get yourself 2 to 3 feet of vacuum hose and replace it. (see page 1 of this thread for size). I find that the Kragen hose is a lot thicker than the OEM.. the OEM hose is puny..very thin. I think Kragen's hose is about 300% ticker, however, without the clothe covering. I don't think it matters, but I prefer something that's much thicker.
I do not know how many Ohms this part 1K0 906 283 should show. (does anyone know?)
So the moral of the story to fixing the P0411 is DO NOT take anything apart. First thing you check is the Solenoid. You can check if the fan comes on if you have the VAG-COM, and you'll hear the clicking. As for the Relay, my 2001 Jetta V6 AFP engine. The relay was located Next to the Air box. It's on top, and there's no fuse. I suppose different model has different design. With my friend's Snap-on VAG, when he tested the air pump, he could hear the relay click.
I will post pictures of the Relays specific to my car and take pictures of the location of these solenoid next week after I order the solenoid. Like I said, before you order your solenoid, take it out (replace the tubes while your at it), and test the Ohm.
Did I mention that I'm a professional photographer? These pictures will be very illustrative. Stay tune.
Modified by fastnetmail2 at 6:41 PM 4-5-2009
Modified by fastnetmail2 at 6:43 PM 4-5-2009
IMPORTANT UPDATE: 4/7/09: I take back what I said below about the 58 Ohm. The AllData book might be wrong and that my solenoid checking out at 58 Ohm may be correct. I do not know yet, so don't rely on these numbers to determine if the solenoid is bad.
Modified by fastnetmail2 at 5:44 AM 4-7-2009