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    Thread: J367 Battery Monitoring Controller Replacement (Includes RVU TB 27-06-02) [TOC, Photos done]

    1. Senior Member PanEuropean's Avatar
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      12-01-2006 11:34 PM #26
      Lastly - here is what to do with the relay panel to keep it out of your way once you have released it from the backing plate.
      Michael
      Where to put the relay panel
      Last edited by PanEuropean; 04-10-2012 at 04:40 PM.

    2. Senior Member PanEuropean's Avatar
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      01-27-2007 12:21 PM #27
      Archival Note: Related query about how to release the fuse panel (relay panel) illustrated above - How do I release the rear fuse box?.

    3. 02-02-2007 01:17 PM #28
      Quote, originally posted by PanEuropean »
      I would appreciate hearing from anyone else who has had their battery management controller replaced - did this fix your problem? It seems to have done the job for Rodger and I.
      Michael

      I had my controller replaced recently and everything appears to be fine now. I had to make one trip for them to ensure I needed a new controller and then scheduled a follow-up appointment a week later to give enough time for the new controller to arrive at the dealership. Using the NAPA Battery Maintainer to charge the battery overnight was necessary while waiting for the new controller.
      The only thing I was upset with the dealership with was getting my car back after it appeared someone manually closed my power trunk. When I arrived home I pulled the trunk release button from inside the car only for it to sound like the latch moved making a clunking sound. The trunk didn't go up. So, guessing the problem. I MANUALLY lifted the trunk (which WAS unlatched) all the way to the top slowly. When I hit the button to close it, it only came down halfway and popped the latch out. Hitting the trunk button (on the remote I think) a third and final time allowed the trunk to come down and latch as it is supposed to. Everything has been fine since. I'm not impressed that people at the dealership don't appear to know how to operate the electric Phaeton trunk.
      Robert

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      03-12-2007 01:57 PM #29
      michael advises the replacement of the "B" controllers is mandatory, my question is how do you know if you have one. my vehicle (purchased used a year ago) was manufactured on 9/11/03. the model year code is "4". my dealer says i do not have the "B" controller because the "campaign/action information" for the vin reads "there are no open campaigns/actions for this vehicle". does trhis seem correct or may i still have a problem?

    5. Member chrisj428's Avatar
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      03-12-2007 02:03 PM #30
      Having either you or someone you know run a VAGCOM scan on the controller will give you the answer.
      It *shouldn't* be an issue if you're out of VIN range. However...
      --Chris

    6. Senior Member PanEuropean's Avatar
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      03-12-2007 02:59 PM #31
      Hi William:
      If your Phaeton was manufactured in September of '03 (same as mine), then it was equipped with a B suffix battery management controller at the factory. It is possible that the B suffix controller has since been replaced with a C or higher suffix controller at some time in the past when you took the vehicle in for service. There was a mandatory campaign (a RVU, or Required Vehicle Update) out about this exact subject - you can find further details here: Electrical Problems - Includes TB 27-06-02, RVU (Campaign OH).
      If you read the reply I made to Todd on October 29, 2006 (click here), you will find a full summary of all the software update issues that need to be looked at on a 2004 Phaeton. Your VW dealer can easily determine the part number suffix of your battery controller using a diagnostic scan tool - no physical disassembly of the vehicle is necessary. The software version of the instrument cluster controller and J523 can also be determined using a diagnostic scan tool.
      If it turns out that your Phaeton still has the B version controller, and if you have been taking the car to the same VW dealer for scheduled service over the past 18 months, then they have been "asleep at the switch" - in other words, they did not check for campaigns or RVUs during the original period of validity of Campaign OH. So, ask them to carry out the following work for you:
      1) Campaign OH, replacement of the battery management controller with a version higher that part number suffix B.
      2) TB 90-05-04, which solves the 'distortion in instrument cluster display screen' problem (flashes the instrument cluster software up to version x21). Click here for more information: TB: Distortion in the Display Unit in the Instrument Cluster (MFI, or Y24)
      3) TB 37-07-08 (formerly 00-06-02, campaign BL) - click here for more information: TB 00-06-02 - W12 (only!) Underbody Cover Attachment Modification
      4) Check to see if you have a broken oil dipstick. More information here: Broken Oil Dipstick - W12 Engine. The oil dipstick problem is specific to W12 engines, V8 engines are not affected.
      You might want to review the following posts yourself, for further information so you have full awareness of everything:
      Phaeton Technical Bulletin (TB) Summary
      Rear Cabin and Interior Trunk Lights not working after service visit
      Be aware that after replacement of the battery management controller, two additional tasks need to be carried out:
      1) All the controllers for 'moving objects' (seats, windows, trunk lid, sunroof, steering wheel) need to be re-adapted, because all power will have been disconnected from the car. See this post for more elaboration:How to adapt moving components (windows, seats, sunroof, trunk lid).
      2) The left battery will need to be fully charged up by the dealer, then tested with the Midtronics battery tester.
      Michael

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      03-28-2007 07:56 AM #32
      michael, you wrote: "If it turns out that your Phaeton still has the B version controller, and if you have been taking the car to the same VW dealer for scheduled service over the past 18 months, then they have been "asleep at the switch" - in other words, they did not check for campaigns or RVUs during the original period of validity of Campaign OH. So, ask them to carry out the following work for you:
      1) Campaign OH, replacement of the battery management controller with a version higher that part number suffix B."
      it appears that i probably have a "B" controller, but apparently not all phaetons are included in campaign OH. both the dealer and customer service have declined to check the controller or replace it as this vin # is not in the campaign, albiet manufactured with a "B" cntroller.
      they are NOT replacing all the old controllers, period.

    8. Senior Member PanEuropean's Avatar
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      03-28-2007 08:17 AM #33
      Most interesting, William, thanks for providing that information. It perplexes me a bit.
      Michael

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      01-23-2008 11:08 PM #34
      Quote, originally posted by calmone »
      it appears that i probably have a "B" controller, but apparently not all phaetons are included in campaign OH. both the dealer and customer service have declined to check the controller or replace it as this vin # is not in the campaign, albiet manufactured with a "B" cntroller.

      Forgive me, for my resources ar elimited at the moment.
      If you have a "B" controller and are experiencing issues and are under warranty, then it should be replaced unless they are able to come up with another explanation for the vehicle's behavior.
      If you are out of VIN range and have a "B" controller, this would be a good time to call PCC and explain the situation to them. Many times they can make a phonecall to Product Compliance to have a campaign opened on a VIN which was not originally included or for which the campaign had been erroneously closed.
      --Chris

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      08-22-2009 10:59 AM #35
      Michael, it's possible to use the Jump Start terminals to connect the battery tester or analyzer ?, I am planning to buy the following Battery Analyzer, It will actually tell you how many month of battery life you have (remaining % of battery), thanks
      http://www.argusanalyzers.com/index.php?id=76

    11. Senior Member PanEuropean's Avatar
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      08-22-2009 12:27 PM #36
      No. If you want to test or analyze the battery, disconnect the two cables that connect the battery to the car (disconnect the negative one first, and reconnect the negative one last), then connect your tool directly to the battery terminals.
      Note that if you disconnect and reconnect the two batteries one at a time (in other words, you don't have both disconnected at once), the car won't "forget" everything and you won't need to re-adapt pinch protection, reset the steering angle sensor, etc.
      Michael

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      08-22-2009 07:01 PM #37
      I have a basic question (sorry about that ), reading the specifications for both of my batteries:

      Driver Side:
      P/N: 000 915 105 CE
      SPEC: 12V 92 Ah AGM - 850A EN/SAE - 520A (DIN)
      Passenger Side:
      P/N: 1J0 915 105 AD
      SPEC: 12V 92Ah AGM - 540A EN/SAE - 330A (DIN)

      What is the meaning of all the numbers ?, also some of my specs does not match what is being reported in the forum, are my P/N's the correct ones ?, please somebody could provide a brief explanation or direct me to, where to understand all the numbers and what is their meaning.
      The reason for my questions is that I just bought the Argus AA500P Battery Analyzer, and I do not know which value I should enter as the "Rating Value or Cold Cranking Amps (CCA)" the information in the batteries is the following

      Battery 1:
      12V 92Ah - 850A EN/SAE - 520A (DIN)

      Which value I should use to set the CCA parameter in the analyzer 850A or 520A ?, 850 if using SAE or 520 if using DIN ?

      Battery 2:
      12V 61Ah - 540A EN/SAE - 330A (DIN)

      Which value I should use to set the CCA parameter in the analyzer 540A or 330A ?, 540 if using SAE or 330 if using DIN ?
      Thanks


      Modified by brosen at 7:20 PM 8-22-2009

    13. Member brosen's Avatar
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      08-23-2009 12:50 AM #38
      I understand the Left Battery is AGM type, the one on the right side (starter) is WET type ?, thanks

    14. Member brosen's Avatar
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      08-23-2009 12:56 AM #39
      Michael, it was not necessary to disconnect the battery from the terminals prior to connect the Battery Tester/Analyzer ?, from the photo it looks like the tester was just connected on top ?, thanks

    15. Senior Member PanEuropean's Avatar
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      08-23-2009 06:32 AM #40
      Quote, originally posted by brosen »
      ...from the photo it looks like the tester was just connected on top...

      What photo?

    16. Member brosen's Avatar
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      08-23-2009 10:57 AM #41

    17. Senior Member PanEuropean's Avatar
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      08-23-2009 11:36 AM #42
      When that photo was taken, the OTHER battery was disconnected, therefore, there was (for electrical purposes) only one battery in the car. Hence no possibility of getting an inaccurate reading due to the presence of the other battery.
      Michael

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      08-23-2009 11:38 AM #43
      OK, I get it, I will plan on testing the Right battery out of the car and the Left one connected, I thought it was required to properly test the battery to have it fully disconnected from the car, thanks Michael

    19. Member brosen's Avatar
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      08-23-2009 02:26 PM #44
      Maybe is possible to get Remaining Battery Life information from the "Measuring Blocks" for the Battery Charger (ECU #71) using VAG-COM or VAD ?, I checked it with VAD but there was no label, so it's hard to tell, I'll check it with VAG-COM later


      Modified by brosen at 1:28 PM 8-23-2009

    20. Senior Member PanEuropean's Avatar
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      08-23-2009 04:04 PM #45
      No, that information cannot be determined with a diagnostic scan tool.

    21. 10-07-2009 01:05 PM #46
      Michael, we have a2004 V8 Phaeton with the exact problems you described in 6/05. We also get "consumer electrics is shutting off," the a/c goes out regularly, key fob works intermittently, and alarm has recently been going off with various permutations of the doors locking or not. We replaced the Left battery, again, 2 weeks ago but not with a gel battery and it got worse. Sluggish starting then it basically died and key got stuck in ignition, would not start at all. However, dealer says the software is up to date. They say we must purchase another $350 battery (including labor) in order for them to do any diagnostics. Any ideas???

    22. Senior Member PanEuropean's Avatar
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      10-08-2009 12:45 AM #47
      Hi Tricia:
      Ask the dealer to give you a printout of the diagnostic scan of the vehicle. This will allow you to determine (independently) what the software versions of the various controllers are. Once you get that report, let us know here and we can all help you out from that point on.
      Michael

    23. 10-10-2009 02:17 AM #48
      I will ask for the printout. I asked them to tell me the specific software version (a, b, or c) last week and the manager had no idea what i was talking about. They say it's ready and, after replacing the Left battery, can find no problem. Should I return it after a little while and ask them to recheck the voltage and charge on the battery like you did back in 05 or 06?

    24. Senior Member PanEuropean's Avatar
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      10-10-2009 05:47 AM #49
      Hello Again Tricia:
      I think you should persist and ask them to tell you what the software version (in this particular case, the part number suffix) of the battery monitoring controller (controller 71) is in your car.
      It is not difficult at all to determine this, the software version and the complete part number (along with all sorts of other information) appears on the diagnostic scan report whenever the VW technician does a scan of the car. Normally, a complete diagnostic scan is done every time the vehicle is in for service.
      Below is a photo of a printout created by a VW diagnostic scan tool that shows the software version (in this case, 2600) and the part number with suffix (in this case, 'B') for a battery management controller on a Phaeton.
      There is a technical bulletin out that notes that controllers with suffix B (which corresponds to software 2600, because this particular controller cannot be flash-updated in situ) are unsatisfactory, and need to be replaced with a controller having a part number suffix ending in either C or D (there is no difference between the two replacements). Suffix A controllers were never installed on cars imported to North America.
      Hope this information assists you.
      Michael

    25. Senior Member PanEuropean's Avatar
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      10-10-2009 05:49 AM #50
      The part number and suffix is clearly visible on the controller itself (see the pictures on the first page of this discussion), but it is not possible to look at the controller when the left battery is installed in the vehicle, because the controller is behind (outboard of) the left battery.
      Michael

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