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    Thread: 12V VR6 Oil Pan Installation DIY

    1. Global Moderator BHB's Avatar
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      07-24-2005 12:56 AM #1
      12V-VR6 Oil Pan Installation

      You will need:
      Oil Pan
      5mm hex bit
      16mm socket
      19mm socket
      Socket driver
      Socket extension
      Oil drain pan
      Silicone Oil Pan Sealant ( i recommend OEM or McKanica MAX - Grey color.)
      Optional:
      New Oil Filter
      New Oil




      Step One:
      If you’re lucky enough to have oil left in your oil pan, you’ll need to drain it. You may want to re-use the oil you drain out if its not super old, or put new oil in when you’re done.

      The oil drain bolt on the rear-facing side of the oil pan. Use a 19mm socket/wrench to remove the bolt and drain the oil into the oil drain pan. Be sure to have the drain pan in place before you start to loosen the bolt.




      Step Two:
      While you’re waiting for the oil to drain, remove the vacuum reservoir bracket which is bolted to the oil pan with two 5mm hex bolts.




      Step Three:
      Once all the oil is drained (i recommend letting every drip of oil drain out to prevent a mess later), you’ll remove the 5mm hex bolts around the oil pan. There are a total of 26 of them. I used a socket driver to loosen them, then a ratchet screwdriver to remove the screws.



      You may need a socket extension to get to the bolts on the drivers side of the pan.






      Step Four:
      Three 16mm bolts are the last bolts holding the pan in place. Two are on the drivers side, and one is on the back side.








      Step Five:
      Lastly, there is a heat protector bolted to the oil pan. Remove it.




      Step Six:
      The oil pan will not just fall off – its held on by the sealant. I gave mine a few taps with a rubber mallet and it fell right off. This is probably the messiest part of the install, as oil will be dripping out of the engine onto your garage floor. I used super absorbent oil towels to keep stuff clean.



      mmm… VR6 internals:




      Place your oil drain pan under the engine to keep things clean. Take the old oil pan out and dispose of it.



      New Pan/Old Pan:




      Step Seven:
      Prep the new oil pan for installation. Put a bead of sealant in the tracks which are there for the sealant.





      Spread the sealant out evenly on the lip of the pan.



      I then put another bead around the lip



      Let the pan/sealant sit for about 10-15 minutes to cure. Go get a beer.


      Step Eight:
      Install the new oil pan – all done. I (and the sealant company) recommend letting the oil pan cure for another 10-12 hours before use. I’d take their word for it. You’ll also need to put oil back into the engine – I’d do that now. You may also want to take the time to change the oil filter if you’re putting new oil into the engine.

      Disclaimer: Don't screw your car up doing this. If you're not comfortable doing it, leave it to a professional. With that being said, I am not a mechanic and this was not a hard DIY. If you can change your car's oil, you should be able to do this. This website, and I are not responsible for damage done to your vehicle while undertaking this DIY. This oil pain swap was done on a 2000 Jetta VR6. I cannot speak to differences between model years - although its my understanding that all 12 valve VR6s will be the same procedure.
      Last edited by BHB; 09-11-2010 at 03:25 PM. Reason: pictures have been restored.

    2. 07-24-2005 01:34 AM #2
      Thanks for the writeup!!
      Why did you replace your oil pan--?

    3. Global Moderator BHB's Avatar
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      07-24-2005 01:34 AM #3
      cracked it on a gas fill cap at a gas station... was leaking about 1qt of oil per week
      Current: 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi 4x4, 2013 BMW 650GS Sertao, BMW 1150RT
      Gone: 2010 Audi S4; 2008 GTI; 2007 Audi A6; 2004 Audi allroad 2.7T; 2001 Audi A6 2.7T; 1999.5 Mk4 Jetta VR6; 1991 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 4x4

    4. 07-24-2005 06:56 AM #4
      i replaced my oil pan 3 times now i got a skid plate i can change these things in like 10 mins now its like a part of a oil change for me

    5. 07-24-2005 08:45 AM #5
      I guess that a mkiv pan, we dont have those sexy baffles. Shame it's not made of steel....

    6. Member raddo's Avatar
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      07-24-2005 01:26 PM #6
      I have changed mine like 3 time already. Next time I brake mine I am putting a steel one on the car.

    7. 07-25-2005 11:26 AM #7
      Hello,
      can you please give me the part# of the heat shield which bolted to the pan?
      Chris

    8. 07-25-2005 04:05 PM #8
      First off….. you rule. Thanks for doing this. Question though…. If you have over 120K miles on your VR6 and you had the money to blow do you think it would be a good idea to replace your oil pump while you have the pan off? How much more work would this take?
      Mod

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      07-25-2005 05:20 PM #9
      Nothing related to the oilpan at all... My MKIII is old enogh to have the steel one stock.
      Buuuuuuuuut, Are those really slick looking jackstands or are you using two slick looking bottle jacks.

    10. 07-25-2005 06:31 PM #10
      Quote, originally posted by Roanzz »
      Buuuuuuuuut, Are those really slick looking jackstands or are you using two slick looking bottle jacks.

      They look an awful lot like jackstands, you can see the adjustment pin in the center. Very sexy! [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    11. Member Fugee's Avatar
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      07-25-2005 06:51 PM #11
      Good write up bro...

    12. 07-25-2005 10:20 PM #12
      how has the skid plate been working out?

    13. Global Moderator BHB's Avatar
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      07-27-2005 02:47 PM #13
      Quote, originally posted by Roanzz »
      Buuuuuuuuut, Are those really slick looking jackstands or are you using two slick looking bottle jacks.

      they're jack stands [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Current: 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi 4x4, 2013 BMW 650GS Sertao, BMW 1150RT
      Gone: 2010 Audi S4; 2008 GTI; 2007 Audi A6; 2004 Audi allroad 2.7T; 2001 Audi A6 2.7T; 1999.5 Mk4 Jetta VR6; 1991 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 4x4

    14. Global Moderator BHB's Avatar
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      07-27-2005 02:50 PM #14
      Quote, originally posted by modular182 »
      do you think it would be a good idea to replace your oil pump while you have the pan off?

      eh.. hard to say.. if you think you can get another 20,000+ outta the pump i'd say leave it.. but as you can see the oil pan needs to come off anyway,.. if you haev money to burn, why not replace it?
      Current: 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi 4x4, 2013 BMW 650GS Sertao, BMW 1150RT
      Gone: 2010 Audi S4; 2008 GTI; 2007 Audi A6; 2004 Audi allroad 2.7T; 2001 Audi A6 2.7T; 1999.5 Mk4 Jetta VR6; 1991 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 4x4

    15. Senior Member abydielsgli's Avatar
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      11-20-2005 08:27 PM #15
      i might need to do something like this if i dont hurry up and get a skid plate

    16. 01-14-2006 12:36 PM #16
      You don't have the post with the pics still by chance do ya?

    17. Global Moderator BHB's Avatar
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      01-23-2006 10:02 PM #17
      Quote, originally posted by Twhitey10 »
      You don't have the post with the pics still by chance do ya?

      pics rehosted and back up. sorry about that [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Current: 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi 4x4, 2013 BMW 650GS Sertao, BMW 1150RT
      Gone: 2010 Audi S4; 2008 GTI; 2007 Audi A6; 2004 Audi allroad 2.7T; 2001 Audi A6 2.7T; 1999.5 Mk4 Jetta VR6; 1991 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 4x4

    18. Member VW_tayder's Avatar
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      01-23-2006 11:38 PM #18
      all i can see is the red x's

    19. Global Moderator BHB's Avatar
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      01-23-2006 11:43 PM #19
      Quote, originally posted by VW_tayder »
      all i can see is the red x's

      figuring it out
      Current: 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi 4x4, 2013 BMW 650GS Sertao, BMW 1150RT
      Gone: 2010 Audi S4; 2008 GTI; 2007 Audi A6; 2004 Audi allroad 2.7T; 2001 Audi A6 2.7T; 1999.5 Mk4 Jetta VR6; 1991 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 4x4

    20. 01-24-2006 09:47 PM #20
      hi. the pics dont work. are they anywhere i can see?

    21. Global Moderator BHB's Avatar
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      01-24-2006 10:26 PM #21
      for some reason my site is messed up right now.. i'm working on getting them back up. bear with me [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Current: 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi 4x4, 2013 BMW 650GS Sertao, BMW 1150RT
      Gone: 2010 Audi S4; 2008 GTI; 2007 Audi A6; 2004 Audi allroad 2.7T; 2001 Audi A6 2.7T; 1999.5 Mk4 Jetta VR6; 1991 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 4x4

    22. Member Rider_X's Avatar
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      02-21-2006 11:57 PM #22
      any progress with the pics?

    23. Global Moderator BHB's Avatar
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      03-09-2006 01:42 AM #23

      fell by the wayside ... if you would like, email me (address in profile) and i'll email you the pics.
      Current: 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi 4x4, 2013 BMW 650GS Sertao, BMW 1150RT
      Gone: 2010 Audi S4; 2008 GTI; 2007 Audi A6; 2004 Audi allroad 2.7T; 2001 Audi A6 2.7T; 1999.5 Mk4 Jetta VR6; 1991 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 4x4

    24. Global Moderator BHB's Avatar
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      09-24-2006 06:58 PM #24
      pics are being stupid again.. going to have to re-host.
      Brad
      Current: 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi 4x4, 2013 BMW 650GS Sertao, BMW 1150RT
      Gone: 2010 Audi S4; 2008 GTI; 2007 Audi A6; 2004 Audi allroad 2.7T; 2001 Audi A6 2.7T; 1999.5 Mk4 Jetta VR6; 1991 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 4x4

    25. 11-22-2006 06:37 PM #25
      Hi - am going to be replacing my oil pan over the holiday. However as I was laying out my tools according to your DIY post, I realized that the 5 mm hex socket I have won't fit into the deep opening that houses a couple of the 5 mm bolts. Also the 5 mm hex socket bit I bought doesn't seem to come apart to allow me to use just the 5 mm hex bit alone w/ a ratchet screwdriver or extension.
      Where can I get just a 5 mm hex bit that isn't part of a socket?

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