For everyone that has a leak in the rear of their Golf/GTI, this is for you.
 Thin Hose clamps that fit 3/4" OD tubing(should be 5/8" to 1/2" rated)
[10-15 FT] 3/4" OD 1/2" ID Clear Vinyl Tubing for 90 cents a foot. More flexible tubing would be better, however this does the job just fine and is available at almost every hardware store. Each stock tube measures 53" so you really only need 9 FT but having a little extra provides a cushion for any mistakes.*Note about the tubing* The 1/2" ID allows the tubing to fit over the ball very snugly and the 3/4" ID allows the tubing to create a very good seal in the drain. No need to consider other sizes of tubing. Luckily this is the tubing size I used for my watercooling system in my computer so that is how this specific size came to me. I knew watercooling my computer would be helpful in more ways than one!
17MM Socket for the seat belts
10mm Deep Socket for the little screws holding the C pillar panel on the bottom of it.
10mm regular Socket for the hunk o junk removal
Small extensions for the sockets, makes it easier to get the bolts on.
Standard large/medium Philips screwdriver for the handles and hose clamp.
Pointy angled pick(as seen in the headliner removal guide) for the handles.
Torx20 Screwdriver(mini hunk o junk and the two plastic pieces as shown in the headliner guide.
Time Estimate: 1-4 hours depending on your skill level. If you don't know how to take your interior apart and have the right tools ready, it will obviously take longer than someone who knows what they're doing with all the tools at their finger tips.
Bentley diagrams of the Golf/GTI temporarily removed until I research the freedom of information act, I/M me if you 'are wondering what happened to them'
When I washed my car the other week, I found a *minor* water leak.
In order to get to the rear drains, the back seat handles on the headliner need to be removed along with the rest of the standard stuff in that guide, minus everything in the front. Dropping the whole headliner is completely unnecessary for the sunroof drains. The rear lights by the handle can stay in place. I removed one of them and it was very difficult since it has a funky clip on it only to find out it can just stay there.
!!!EDIT ALARM!!! Turns out that these PITA clips are properely removed using a hook screwdriver. Follow the 42DD guide here for proper instructions: http://www.42draftdesigns.com/tech/restraintclip.html <---That's for the A-pillar, but the same method can be used for the back clips too.
ATTENTION, the following information for the clip is obsolete, use the guide above^.
One tricky part to removing the C pillar is the metal clip that holds it on. For this, you have to use both hands as to not break the plastic and just pull/wiggle it very hard until it pops out. I cracked the plastic just a little bit from bending it too much since my hands weren't close to it, no biggie my interior is trashed anyway(black 20th interior someday after the car is paid off).
Everything ripped apart
Door Molding taken off, allows the panel and headliner more room to be removed.
EDIT: Be careful to keep the white cloth rubber part attached to the black molding, these things are a single piece item. DO NOT seperate them, or you will have to carefully slide it back in!!!
Don't we all love taking apart the interior of our car?
Now you need to take care of some hunk o junks in order to get to the driver side drain.
This allows you to fold that carpet on back very far for a huge workspace.
Reinstalling these things involves one special note, make sure that the prongs are tucked in.
Fold down your seats so the headliner has some more room to hang down. Here's what I found when pulling down the headliner:
How did that ish get in there?!? WAIT...VW used OPEN DRAINS instead of sealed so junk can make its way out of that and onto the headliner. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://vwvortex.rely.net/zeroforum_graphics/mad.gif" BORDER="0"> Pure. Genius. Just. Kidding.
Pull that crap stock tube out!
Look at this, some ingenuity must have been involved in using TOTALLY SWEET FALL APART CONNECTOR TUBES:
These connectors end up losing their bond with the tubing and then the water leaks through. to VWOA for cutting costs yet again.
Here's the drain connector on top:
Time to replace that tube with something quality, how about some tubing that goes over that ball and a hose clamp? What a brilliant idea!
Now for the driver side. The driver side hose must be routed between the metal panel that the stock hose goes through. This can be a pain with tubing that is curved. Just keep trying and you'll get it, poke your fingers through the other slots in the panel to push it down, and then once you can feel it on the bottom just wiggle it around and push from the top and pull from the bottom.
Be sure to route the tubing through everything BEFORE cutting it. Repeat this 'trick' on the passenger side as well. This is the most time consuming part of the whole project since it involves luck/skill.
Break off those clips that held the stock tube in, I left the stubs to use as a guide for the new tubing.
Route the new tubing in place of the stock:
[DO NOT] zip tie the new tubing to the tube wrapped in the blanket. Come to find out it is supposedly the curtain air bag
Instead, just let it hang there and push it up with the headliner:
Put that hose clamp on the tubing positioned right before hooking it up. When it gets on there, it's hard to take off because of the sweet seal the 1/2" ID hose makes.
The driver side drain is right below the tail light:
Looky here, a nice swimming pool; IN MY CAR! ---> ***Side Note: Soak up any leaks before continuing and let it air out before putting everything back together. ***
For the drain tube connectors that go in the hole you should take it out, wiggle/slide/push it onto the tubing so it points down, and then slowly but surely secure it back in from within the car. They are made to be inserted from the back of the car when the back bumper is off although with a little bit of magic they can be pushed back in. Slide as much as you can onto the metal, and then use the good ole roundabout to get the rest to slide under to create the seal. It's self explanatory once you have in your hands
With the tubing coming out from the metal panel, it doesn't give much room for positioning the end at a good angle. Do the best you can, it should still drain a sufficient amount of water.
On to the passenger side. Much easier than the driver side since the tubing has a straight shot down to the drain.
Hose clamp connected on top, the rear seat being folded down helped a great deal for the passenger side since you have a tight space to work with the screw driver.
Originally I had fastened this tube in place with a zip tie. This ended up preventing the C pillar panel from snapping up since it was too close to the connectors. Let it all hang loose, the panel will keep it in place.
Here's the drain location on the passenger side:
Connected together, the passenger side allows for more of an angle so the water can drain out quicker in case you didn't notice.
Put everything back together in reverse order and confidently drive in that rain knowing you have upgraded sunroof drains in the back of your car.
Revisions are complete, specific information will be added on request.
Modified by -Kage- at 8:47 PM 7-4-2007