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Thread: What did you do to your Mk2 do today?

  1. Member Rheinland Technik's Avatar
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    05-16-2012 05:32 AM #22646
    Quote Originally Posted by Sickvwguy View Post
    Covered the headliner..just need to cut the sunroof hole...installed trunk mechanism and fresh badges too


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    What headliner?

  2. Junior Member
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    05-16-2012 07:56 AM #22647
    Quote Originally Posted by Urwrstntmare View Post
    Picked this piece of sweetness up from the powder coater today, she will be goin on!
    Looks nice P....

  3. Member Flipdriver80's Avatar
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    05-16-2012 08:33 AM #22648
    cleaned up the mess i made from doing my wiring harness and threw the driver seat back in. shes almost ready to go i just have to bleed my slave a little more because its grabbing really low. before i can drive it i gotta pull all the **** outta the trunk because its become a storage area over the past 6 months.

    also ordered -6 fuel line/ fittings/ and a new fuel filter so i can get some more flow to the motor.
    Quote Originally Posted by dirtbaggg View Post
    is there anyway to get a new uni body?

    like can yu take the uni body off

  4. Member jettaracer1989's Avatar
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    Now a proud Subaru owner, I will be back with an aircooled vw!
    05-16-2012 09:07 AM #22649
    Quote Originally Posted by Sycoticmynd29 View Post
    Took my car to safelite to get a new windshield, about 45 minutes after my appointment started I got a phone call.

    They can't install a new windshield or put the old one back in because of this:



    Any of you guys ever need to get that replaced / repaired?
    This is what happens when they have these "professional" glass installers scratching the hell out of the metal around the windshield. JN phillips is who replaced mine and he scratched it
    Mk4 shift knob, boot and trim ring into your mk3/mk2 DIY:
    http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ng-to-your-mk3

  5. Member Urwrstntmare's Avatar
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    05-16-2012 10:09 AM #22650
    Quote Originally Posted by nimbusTD View Post
    Looks nice P....
    Thanks, had it done twice to get it right.

  6. Member Sickvwguy's Avatar
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    05-16-2012 12:57 PM #22651
    Quote Originally Posted by Rheinland Technik View Post
    What headliner?
    Lmao that's what I said when we tilted it up..where did it go?!


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  7. Junior Member Pauly76's Avatar
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    05-16-2012 03:29 PM #22652
    put on the big bumpers. Now time to clean and clean and clean.

    I like chicken!

  8. Member
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    05-16-2012 03:40 PM #22653
    Got new doors handles on, and discovered why my passenger door wouldn't lock. Evidently the little metal piece between the ends on the spring broke off somehow. Hopefully I can get my buddy to give me his cylinder from the mk2 he's parting out

    Also figured out the clanking noise in my engine bay is coming from a worn out vibration damper, so that along with a couple misc. parts were ordered about an hour ago.

  9. Junior Member euro_trash44's Avatar
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    1986 gti. 2003 gti (traded). 1996 vr6 jetta (rip). 1972 type two bus (sold). 1998 golf (sold).
    05-16-2012 05:08 PM #22654
    Finally started ripping out the engine to make room for a vr6
    GOD MY CAR ISN'T VERY SEXY RIGHT NOW....DAMN

  10. Member R-Dubya's Avatar
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    05-17-2012 12:03 AM #22655
    Ok, any mk2 gurus out there please help.

    My coupe (1.8 digi II) runs fine normally, but many times if it's hot and I shut it off it won't want to start when I crank it the first time, but after waiting about 30 seconds it will start right back up. Also, it will occasionally act like it's dying and sputter and then go back to normal, or just completely shut off and not start for 30 seconds again. It runs great any other time. The ISV works correctly, I replaced the fuel filter, checked both fuel pumps to make sure they work correctly, all my relays are good as far as I know, it's got a new dizzy cap, plugs, and plug wires, the air filter is clean and I cleaned the PCV valve out.

    EDIT: Also, sometimes when I turn they key back on after it refuses to start, I will hear a clicking sound under the hood and sometimes my RPM needle will suddenly jump to 700 or so and then go back to zero, without me actuating the starter. I'm thinking it may be the ignition coil, but I would like the opinion of someone with more experience.
    Last edited by R-Dubya; 05-17-2012 at 12:14 AM.

  11. Member NJ_Cipher's Avatar
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    05-17-2012 04:04 AM #22656
    Quote Originally Posted by R-Dubya View Post
    Ok, any mk2 gurus out there please help.

    My coupe (1.8 digi II) runs fine normally, but many times if it's hot and I shut it off it won't want to start when I crank it the first time, but after waiting about 30 seconds it will start right back up. Also, it will occasionally act like it's dying and sputter and then go back to normal, or just completely shut off and not start for 30 seconds again. It runs great any other time. The ISV works correctly, I replaced the fuel filter, checked both fuel pumps to make sure they work correctly, all my relays are good as far as I know, it's got a new dizzy cap, plugs, and plug wires, the air filter is clean and I cleaned the PCV valve out.

    EDIT: Also, sometimes when I turn they key back on after it refuses to start, I will hear a clicking sound under the hood and sometimes my RPM needle will suddenly jump to 700 or so and then go back to zero, without me actuating the starter. I'm thinking it may be the ignition coil, but I would like the opinion of someone with more experience.

    First I would check all your grounds.

    its the starter if you have a digiII auto....heat soak ...get a new starter and put some header wrap over the down pipe...

  12. Member R-Dubya's Avatar
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    05-17-2012 07:32 AM #22657
    Quote Originally Posted by NJ_Cipher View Post
    First I would check all your grounds.

    its the starter if you have a digiII auto....heat soak ...get a new starter and put some header wrap over the down pipe...
    It's a digi II manual. The starter works fine though, it cranks freely but just doesn't fire until you let it sit for 20-30 seconds.

  13. Member Deezy's Avatar
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    05-17-2012 08:42 AM #22658
    Quote Originally Posted by R-Dubya View Post
    It's a digi II manual. The starter works fine though, it cranks freely but just doesn't fire until you let it sit for 20-30 seconds.
    I read about knock sensors causing this issue... ?? Maybe

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  14. Member Wermz's Avatar
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    05-17-2012 11:08 AM #22659
    Plastiguaged my new bearings last night. Well within specs.
    Φ ¿╤Æ₧φ≈ ™

  15. Member R-Dubya's Avatar
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    05-17-2012 12:59 PM #22660
    Update. New ignition coil today, no dice. Same BS. I took the cover off of the fuel pump relay and noticed that it will sometimes not work correctly upon turning the key. It will work, and then either lose connection or it will work until I shut the car off and then not connect again like it should. I am so lost. I tried another ECU too, it still does the same thing.

    Also, where are the grounds at? I honestly have no clue, I've been searching the web with no luck. You'd think that something so basic would be covered in several different places but no, that would be too convenient. My Bentley didn't help at all either.

  16. Member Deezy's Avatar
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    05-17-2012 01:02 PM #22661
    Quote Originally Posted by R-Dubya View Post
    Update. New ignition coil today, no dice. Same BS. I took the cover off of the fuel pump relay and noticed that it will sometimes not work correctly upon turning the key. It will work, and then either lose connection or it will work until I shut the car off and then not connect again like it should. I am so lost. I tried another ECU too, it still does the same thing.

    Also, where are the grounds at? I honestly have no clue, I've been searching the web with no luck. You'd think that something so basic would be covered in several different places but no, that would be too convenient. My Bentley didn't help at all either.
    Body ground's are next to battery.

    A2resource for.relay grounds

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  17. Member GTIMaxx's Avatar
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    05-17-2012 04:00 PM #22662
    Working on making my own relay harness.



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    If it's worth building, it's worth over building.

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    1991 la6u golf, 1996 subaru legacy wagon
    05-17-2012 06:58 PM #22663
    Stared at all the new parts sitting in my apartment, wondering what the pile of parts at home looks like, longing to wrench on it haha.
    Quote Originally Posted by thelumpya2 View Post
    hate if you want, no need to change the car as I enjoy it the way it is.
    this is the statement everyone on here should live by. make your car to how you want and what makes you happy. nothing else matters.

  19. Member Rheinland Technik's Avatar
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    05-17-2012 07:00 PM #22664
    Received a box of parts today for the GLI.

    A-Arms
    Rack boots
    Brake cables
    Engine gaskets
    Motor mounts
    and a few more items...

  20. Member the sneakiest panda evar's Avatar
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    05-17-2012 07:08 PM #22665
    Quote Originally Posted by Rheinland Technik View Post
    Received a box of parts today for the GLI.

    A-Arms
    Rack boots
    Brake cables
    Engine gaskets
    Motor mounts
    and a few more items...
    send back your a arms, and trade me some machining work for mine with r32 bushing they are new!
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  21. Member bomber vw's Avatar
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    U will think I'm bragginnnnnn...
    05-17-2012 07:17 PM #22666
    Shes ready for the booth..
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    U KNOW WHAT IT IS....
    DLPMOTORS...

  22. Member R-Dubya's Avatar
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    05-17-2012 07:27 PM #22667
    Quote Originally Posted by Deezy View Post
    Body ground's are next to battery.

    A2resource for.relay grounds

    Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
    As far as I know all my grounds are good. I had to redo the one on the head when I changed the coil out because it grounds underneath the bracket, and I took the ones next to the battery off and scuffed up both surfaces with sandpaper to ensure that they were being grounded correctly. Took a 2 minute drive to the bank, shut it off, bam. Same bull****. Didn't want to start for 30 seconds or so, then started back up and ran beautifully again. Driving this car is ****ing embarrassing.

    Just ordered a bunch of fuel pump relays from RockAuto, they had the Beck Arnley ones on closeout for $1.70ish each. Maybe that's what is wrong, but seeing as I've had 2 different ones in there already and the problem still exists at varying degrees, I'm not too optimistic right now.
    Last edited by R-Dubya; 05-17-2012 at 07:59 PM.

  23. Member Rheinland Technik's Avatar
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    05-17-2012 07:56 PM #22668
    Quote Originally Posted by the sneakiest panda evar View Post
    send back your a arms, and trade me some machining work for mine with r32 bushing they are new!
    I already have my R32 bushing ready to go.

  24. Member the sneakiest panda evar's Avatar
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    05-17-2012 08:05 PM #22669
    Quote Originally Posted by Rheinland Technik View Post
    I already have my R32 bushing ready to go.
    damn! oh well lol. i will need some more machining done soon ill hit you up when im ready for it
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  25. Member Deezy's Avatar
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    05-17-2012 10:51 PM #22670
    Quote Originally Posted by R-Dubya View Post
    As far as I know all my grounds are good. I had to redo the one on the head when I changed the coil out because it grounds underneath the bracket, and I took the ones next to the battery off and scuffed up both surfaces with sandpaper to ensure that they were being grounded correctly. Took a 2 minute drive to the bank, shut it off, bam. Same bull****. Didn't want to start for 30 seconds or so, then started back up and ran beautifully again. Driving this car is ****ing embarrassing.

    Just ordered a bunch of fuel pump relays from RockAuto, they had the Beck Arnley ones on closeout for $1.70ish each. Maybe that's what is wrong, but seeing as I've had 2 different ones in there already and the problem still exists at varying degrees, I'm not too optimistic right now.
    It seems like a heat soak...
    Knock sensor can cause this or crank sensor.

    Today I put a couple washers on the right rear motor / transmission mount to have the clearance for the euro sport k frame brace. ( vr6) Seems to be working.
    Sanded on the hood a little bit. Tried to bleed rear brakes but it's a tiny wrench I can not find.

    Drove it around the block.



    Also notices this.


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    Last edited by Deezy; 05-17-2012 at 10:54 PM.
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  26. Member
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    05-17-2012 11:53 PM #22671
    Just realized I have a Shcrick oilpan installed in Fred, my 91 Jetta GLI. Unless there is some other oilpan that looks exactly like that. I saw it when I had the car inspected and didn't know it wasn't stock until seeing some pictures of this oilpan on here.

  27. Member Urwrstntmare's Avatar
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    05-18-2012 12:38 AM #22672
    Quote Originally Posted by RobMarkToo View Post
    Just realized I have a Shcrick oilpan installed in Fred, my 91 Jetta GLI. Unless there is some other oilpan that looks exactly like that. I saw it when I had the car inspected and didn't know it wasn't stock until seeing some pictures of this oilpan on here.
    Score!

  28. Member Urwrstntmare's Avatar
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    05-18-2012 12:41 AM #22673
    Oh hey, check this out man, here's the console I got from ya installed.


  29. Member R-Dubya's Avatar
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    05-18-2012 01:54 AM #22674
    Quote Originally Posted by Deezy View Post
    It seems like a heat soak...
    Knock sensor can cause this or crank sensor.
    So that would cause my fuel pump relay to not activate? I took the plastic cover off to check it and plugged it back in with the cover off. Whenever it would not click, the relay would not click, and the fuel pump would not prime.

    Also, I can find the knock sensor pretty easily but where would I find a crank position sensor if I need it? I checked a few part sites to no avail.

  30. Member Deezy's Avatar
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    05-18-2012 09:12 AM #22675
    Quote Originally Posted by R-Dubya View Post
    So that would cause my fuel pump relay to not activate? I took the plastic cover off to check it and plugged it back in with the cover off. Whenever it would not click, the relay would not click, and the fuel pump would not prime.

    Also, I can find the knock sensor pretty easily but where would I find a crank position sensor if I need it? I checked a few part sites to no avail.
    Knock sensor can tell the ecu not to give power to the fuel pump.
    Maybe u do not have crank sensor

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  31. Member R-Dubya's Avatar
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    05-18-2012 09:19 AM #22676
    Quote Originally Posted by Deezy View Post
    Knock sensor can tell the ecu not to give power to the fuel pump.
    Maybe u do not have crank sensor

    Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
    I also believe that I do not have a crank sensor, even googling various combinations of mk2 vw and crank position sensor (engine speed sensor, rpm sensor, etc) comes up with nothing but mk3 and mk4 examples. One less thing that could be my problem

    Also, I don't know if this could be related but when my car is idling, it will cycle between sounding almost silent, and then a tap/knock for about 20-30 seconds, and then back to quiet. As far as I remember this didn't happen when I first got the car a couple months ago, it only started after my plugs fouled and caused a misfire (I didn't drive around with a miss, just started it up and it was missing so I shut it down and changed the plugs). I did notice when I swapped out the chipped ECU for my stock unit, it went away, but I don't know if that was just the ECU resetting or just a difference between the tunes or something.
    Last edited by R-Dubya; 05-18-2012 at 09:24 AM.

  32. Member the sneakiest panda evar's Avatar
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    05-18-2012 09:20 AM #22677
    Quote Originally Posted by Urwrstntmare View Post
    Oh hey, check this out man, here's the console I got from ya installed.

    looks like sex! glad you like it!

    im running an early diesel console with a delete panel

    >>>PM ME FOR CUSTOM STICKERS AND TSHIRTS<<<<
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  33. Member R-Dubya's Avatar
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    05-18-2012 11:43 PM #22678
    Quote Originally Posted by Deezy View Post
    It seems like a heat soak...
    Knock sensor can cause this or crank sensor.
    Upon closer inspection, I'm pretty sure this is what happened actually. My car doesn't have a crank sensor but it has a hall sender that plugs into a plug on the distributor. I wiggled the hall sender and the whole unit was moving freely. The only thing holding the plug on was the wires. The plug also looked pretty badly burnt, which would explain what was overheating and not letting my car start. This would also explain the rpm spike and click when the car is off, since the hall sender controls the rpm gauge from what I know. Here's a terrible video of it, my friend couldn't keep his damn light in one place.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6XGd2ot-Tg
    Last edited by R-Dubya; 05-18-2012 at 11:45 PM.

  34. Member Greg57vw's Avatar
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    05-19-2012 12:47 AM #22679
    Installed cabin filter.





    Like a glove.



    Thank you pigbladder a vwtechr32.

  35. Member Mr.Nobody's Avatar
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    91' Jetta 8v's of fury
    05-19-2012 03:51 AM #22680
    New cap,rotor and plugs, replaced all the vacuum lines and cabin filter. Also filled it up, washed the windows and set the tire pressure.

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