My DIY for adding a central locking switch to a Golf/Jetta that does not have one.
This will give you a central lock switch without loosing any of the alarm or lock/unlock functionality of the factory version. This is for NA cars, and was done on a 95 VW Golf Sport. This was taken from, http://www.gti-vr6.net/library....html but that’s sort of a mess to walk through..
Time 2 Hours if you take your time, 20 min if you hustle.
OEM Central Lock Switch - 1HM 962125 C or A (older), Ebay, Dealer, Yard whatever.
Wire/Solder/Basic Tools/Electrical Tape/Heat Shrink Tubing/Crimping Tool/Wire Cutters/Strippers
220 Ohm Resistor (Radio Shack) - http://www.radioshack.com/prod...D1111
6 Position Interlocking Female Connector (Radio Shack) PN 274-236 - http://www.radioshack.com/prod...2D236
Cheap, don’t want to pay for a switch? You can use this deal as well, it just won’t light up. Get a Toggle Switch SPDT with Center Off Position and wire that up! (lock wire center, 12V top, ground bottom).
- Locate Lock Wire - Down near driver’s foot well, near hood release.
It’s the black/red wire 2nd one up on the door jamb connector. (Shown)
Remove the 2 screws that hold up the fuse cover/dash cover from the bottom.
Remove the cover. There is a white clip at the back, the panel slides in and out of this clip.
- CUT this wire as CLOSE to the connector as possible, don’t worry you WILL NOT REATTACH THIS WIRE TO ANYTHING ON THE CONNECTER SIDE OF THE HARNESS! HAVE FAITH BROTHER!
- Pop/Pry off the A/C heater panel. (Plastic knife works nice for this.) Remove Ashtray. Remove 4 screws at upper end of panel, remove 2 screws under ashtray. Leave the heater A/C controls in the dash - they will not need to come out, however, remove the trim and lower the switch panel out to the shifter.
- Strip ¼” wire off of black/red wire; strip off ¼” off new wire that will be run to center console. SOLDER and heat shrink wires together. Secure new wire up over fuse box, under steering column and into center console area. Pull about 1’ of wire out of the center console.
At this point, your sort of done, If you touch ground with the wire, the pump will run and the doors will unlock, if you touch 12V+ the doors will lock (or vice versa, can’t remember off hand). I added and soldered the 220 Ohm resistor to the wire. My system worked without this, but the Bentley manual shows it. Whatever. This seems to be a bone of contention with most people who do this. They get all whipped up. I say try it both ways. If it works with the resistor, leave it, if it does not - take it out. Try about 10 cycles in each direction.
- Break out that fresh nylon connector and hook it up like this. I used OEM wire color (sort of, well what I had on hand).
Make sure you crimp the wires well; the pins (female) should slide into the nylon connector. I added solder to the pins, and had to cut (snip) off the connector “wings” of the nylon connector. Don’t worry its going to be a snug fit. You’re gonna have to push a little to get it to fit well.
Push out one of the blanks from the dash switch cluster.
Feed the nylon unit into the cluster and plug it into the back of the switch. (again, some force is needed here, but please don’t break the switch).
Next, cut solder and splice the 12+v into the red/white wire of the Cigar lighter. You can tie the two grounds together and splice them into any ground on the harness. ( Note some people see the “brown” as “orange” on VWs…) I did this on the rear defroster ground, and I also used the same connector to tie into the blue/green wire for the dimmer circuit. Again, solder everything, the little “3M scotch lock” connectors are too big for some of these wires, and they will loosen up and fail..
Once you are all ready, give the switch a cycle, and see how it works! Also make sure the switch lights up with the dash lights.
Put everything back together and enjoy!
Modified by Dan J Reed at 12:56 AM 8-23-2005