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    Thread: DIY Central Locking.

    1. Senior Member Dan J Reed's Avatar
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      08-22-2005 07:47 PM #1
      My DIY for adding a central locking switch to a Golf/Jetta that does not have one.

      This will give you a central lock switch without loosing any of the alarm or lock/unlock functionality of the factory version. This is for NA cars, and was done on a 95 VW Golf Sport. This was taken from, http://www.gti-vr6.net/library....html but that’s sort of a mess to walk through..

      Time 2 Hours if you take your time, 20 min if you hustle.

      Needed:
      This DIY
      OEM Central Lock Switch - 1HM 962125 C or A (older), Ebay, Dealer, Yard whatever.
      Wire/Solder/Basic Tools/Electrical Tape/Heat Shrink Tubing/Crimping Tool/Wire Cutters/Strippers
      220 Ohm Resistor (Radio Shack) - http://www.radioshack.com/prod...D1111


      6 Position Interlocking Female Connector (Radio Shack) PN 274-236 - http://www.radioshack.com/prod...2D236


      Cheap, don’t want to pay for a switch? You can use this deal as well, it just won’t light up. Get a Toggle Switch SPDT with Center Off Position and wire that up! (lock wire center, 12V top, ground bottom).

      - Locate Lock Wire - Down near driver’s foot well, near hood release.

      It’s the black/red wire 2nd one up on the door jamb connector. (Shown)

      Remove the 2 screws that hold up the fuse cover/dash cover from the bottom.

      Remove the cover. There is a white clip at the back, the panel slides in and out of this clip.

      - CUT this wire as CLOSE to the connector as possible, don’t worry you WILL NOT REATTACH THIS WIRE TO ANYTHING ON THE CONNECTER SIDE OF THE HARNESS! HAVE FAITH BROTHER!

      - Pop/Pry off the A/C heater panel. (Plastic knife works nice for this.) Remove Ashtray. Remove 4 screws at upper end of panel, remove 2 screws under ashtray. Leave the heater A/C controls in the dash - they will not need to come out, however, remove the trim and lower the switch panel out to the shifter.

      - Strip ¼” wire off of black/red wire; strip off ¼” off new wire that will be run to center console. SOLDER and heat shrink wires together. Secure new wire up over fuse box, under steering column and into center console area. Pull about 1’ of wire out of the center console.

      At this point, your sort of done, If you touch ground with the wire, the pump will run and the doors will unlock, if you touch 12V+ the doors will lock (or vice versa, can’t remember off hand). I added and soldered the 220 Ohm resistor to the wire. My system worked without this, but the Bentley manual shows it. Whatever. This seems to be a bone of contention with most people who do this. They get all whipped up. I say try it both ways. If it works with the resistor, leave it, if it does not - take it out. Try about 10 cycles in each direction.

      - Break out that fresh nylon connector and hook it up like this. I used OEM wire color (sort of, well what I had on hand).

      Make sure you crimp the wires well; the pins (female) should slide into the nylon connector. I added solder to the pins, and had to cut (snip) off the connector “wings” of the nylon connector. Don’t worry its going to be a snug fit. You’re gonna have to push a little to get it to fit well.

      Push out one of the blanks from the dash switch cluster.

      Feed the nylon unit into the cluster and plug it into the back of the switch. (again, some force is needed here, but please don’t break the switch).

      Next, cut solder and splice the 12+v into the red/white wire of the Cigar lighter. You can tie the two grounds together and splice them into any ground on the harness. ( Note some people see the “brown” as “orange” on VWs…) I did this on the rear defroster ground, and I also used the same connector to tie into the blue/green wire for the dimmer circuit. Again, solder everything, the little “3M scotch lock” connectors are too big for some of these wires, and they will loosen up and fail..

      Once you are all ready, give the switch a cycle, and see how it works! Also make sure the switch lights up with the dash lights.

      Put everything back together and enjoy!

      -Dan




      Modified by Dan J Reed at 12:56 AM 8-23-2005


    2. Member KeithVH's Avatar
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      08-23-2005 09:09 AM #2
      Thanks, man!

    3. Member oopseyesharted's Avatar
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      08-23-2005 09:19 AM #3
      sweet diy...nice work man

    4. Senior Member Dan J Reed's Avatar
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      08-23-2005 04:44 PM #4
      I'd like to add one thing about this.

      Make sure you get a 220 Ohm resistor, not a 220K ohm unit, they are not the same at all!!! It won't wotk at all with the 220K ohm unit, just lookout for it if you are shopping in the stores..!


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      01-09-2006 04:23 PM #5
      Been looking for this, thanks Dan.

      -Phil


    6. Member LG6R's Avatar
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      01-09-2006 04:30 PM #6
      This DIY is great. I had already printed it out last week and am planning on doing it this weekend. Thanks Dan

    7. 01-09-2006 04:44 PM #7
      awesome!!!! bookmarked

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      01-13-2006 02:57 PM #8
      i read it and plan on doing it this weekend, this is much like the trunk switch on cars not equipped with keyless entry after you add the keyless

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      01-13-2006 02:58 PM #9
      Quote, originally posted by ThatGuy »
      i read it and plan on doing it this weekend, this is much like the trunk switch on cars not equipped with keyless entry after you add the keyless

      let me know how it goes. i bought my switch awhile back and still havent done it.

      "Make it ghetto, make it gangsta."
      -Ron Perlman

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      01-15-2006 03:07 AM #10
      Impressions: Very straight forward, just as Dan wrote it up. Take your time do it right.

      IMO: If I were doing this, instead of hassling with the radio shack harness you can get either a harness and wires from VW or you can get a driver side harness off the windows switchs. I took one off my old door to my jetta GLS that i had sitting around. 6 pin, 3 on top 3 on bottom, clips right in. I had a spare wire hanging around to clip in because only 5 of the pins were occupied and my spade release was not working. The soldering was done in 20 minutes rather than all the grinding and such that the radio shack harness would have taken.

      When Dan means a dot of solder, he means it. Main reason I went hunting for a new harness, I soldered the connector to the wire and heat shrinked it. No good.

      Here are some pictures


      Got me thinking...


      Soldering bib


      Thats the end of those connectors


      Clean


      That's what I like to see


    11. Member Air_Cooled_Nut's Avatar
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      01-15-2006 12:06 PM #11
      Another good DIY from Dan

      Let's go one step further and give Dan a real challenge
      Hook up the switch (or maybe just the locking circuit) to a speed sensor so the doors lock automatically when the car goes faster than 10mph, just like my girlfriends 2002 Passat 1.8t. Of course with that, you don't have to unlock the front doors to get out, unlike my Jetta.

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    12. Senior Member Dan J Reed's Avatar
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      01-15-2006 12:18 PM #12
      Quote, originally posted by Air_Cooled_Nut »
      Another good DIY from Dan

      Let's go one step further and give Dan a real challenge
      Hook up the switch (or maybe just the locking circuit) to a speed sensor so the doors lock automatically when the car goes faster than 10mph, just like my girlfriends 2002 Passat 1.8t. Of course with that, you don't have to unlock the front doors to get out, unlike my Jetta.

      Haha.. that's easy.

      I've been thinking about this one...

      http://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#al

      ThatGuy - Glad it worked out for ya, I didin't have access (easy) to the spare harness and connector - that's why I went the radio shack connector route. Ps - funny to see my own work printed out and being used..


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      01-15-2006 12:35 PM #13
      you sir are out of control.

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      01-15-2006 01:54 PM #14
      I know how you feel about the harness, it was special order and i really wanted to get the switch in, thats why i went with the radio shack harness

      As for the speed sensor I thought about that after I was driving it around, hey that would be cool. Not that I know how to do it...


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      01-15-2006 01:55 PM #15
      Phil where'd you get that neat-o A/F meter?

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      01-15-2006 01:58 PM #16

    17. Member Air_Cooled_Nut's Avatar
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      01-16-2006 11:57 PM #17
      Naw, I like the speed control better but thanks for posting that 12volt URL
      95 Jetta GL 2.0L, chipped, intake, exhaust, compression, cam, close-ratio w/Peloquin, etc.
      72 VW Squareback, rag top, 2.0L, parents original owners
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    18. Member LG6R's Avatar
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      01-20-2006 04:40 PM #18
      That Radio Shack plug is annoying as chit. First the pins didn't want to go into the connector, then the connector didn't want to plug into the switch. I spent close to 3 hours trying to figure this **** out. Annoying as ****. Anyway, after I did the best I could with the damn connector, I hooked everything up. It doesn't have to be ground in order for the unlock to work. The problem I'm having is that it will only unlock every other push of the button. So half the time, it doesn't work. The unlock doesn't work at all for me, and all the wires are hooked up. I tried both with the resistor and without it, no change. WTF! At least the little green light lights up.

      I tried calling the dealership and they said they couldn't get me an oem connector without a part number. That all the connectors were generalized in their system and they couldn't order it without the part number. Friggin jackoffs. Could someone please get me a part number of a connector/harness that would work for this central locking switch? Or the driver's side power window harness? I'm hoping it's just a problem with the connector and nothing else because there really isn't anything else I could have screwed up.

      One more thing also, what does the amount of solder used have to do with it? Because I used a lot. Maybe that had something to do with it? I dunno but this has made me very cranky. I've been trying to figure this thing out all afternoon. Help is appreciated.





      Modified by MerryBerry at 4:42 PM 1-20-2006


    19. Member LG6R's Avatar
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      01-20-2006 07:05 PM #19
      Found out the part number is 191 927 723 for the driver's power window connector. I'll call the dealer tomorrow. Also, I have the A version of the switch. This wouldn't have anything to do with it, would it?

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      01-20-2006 07:10 PM #20
      Quote, originally posted by MerryBerry »
      One more thing also, what does the amount of solder used have to do with it? Because I used a lot. Maybe that had something to do with it? I dunno but this has made me very cranky. I've been trying to figure this thing out all afternoon. Help is appreciated.
      The ammount of solder directly correlates to not fitting in the "block" IE you are supposed to crimp and push them in, if there is extra solder on the outisde the normal circle, it will be a PITA to put in.

      O is supposed to fit in O
      O) with a bit of solder on the side will not fit in O

      At 2 dealership the connector was special order. If you want a part number, go pull out your driver side front window button and read the part number off it, its the same switch, also you will need the "female" connectors for this, 3 of them, they come in pairs of 2. If you have alot of time i can special order the crap and wire you one, but i doubt you wanna wait.

      The easy part of snagging one out of a GTi is that you dont have to mess with it too much, sockets are already in and you just have to strip, solder, and heatshrink.

      Quote, originally posted by MerryBerry »
      Found out the part number is 191 927 723 for the driver's power window connector. I'll call the dealer tomorrow. Also, I have the A version of the switch. This wouldn't have anything to do with it, would it?
      IIRC I also bought the A


      Modified by ThatGuy at 4:13 PM 1-20-2006

    21. Member LG6R's Avatar
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      01-20-2006 07:14 PM #21
      I have crank windows so I couldn't pull off a window switch. But it still doesn't explain why it'll only work every other time to unlock and do nothing when lock is pressed. However, I didn't actually cut the red/black wire. I just spliced into it to see if everything would work properly before I permanantly cut it. Did everything in the car's original locking work right after you cut it and didn't yet hook the other wire up? Because I wouldn't want to cut it for nothing. What was that wire originally designed to do?

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      01-20-2006 07:18 PM #22
      I would say a car designed for the power locks to not have this connector lead wire.

      I tried to use the spade tool but it didnt work, so i just cut it. I understand what it does Dan, just you know...

      As far as what wire you used. There are 2 with black/red, you need to make sure it is the correct one, 2nd from the bottom IIRC, Dan said it from on the original post. I would think this would be the trigger on cars without power door locks to lock all the doors.

      Quote, originally posted by Dan J Reed »
      - Locate Lock Wire - Down near driver’s foot well, near hood release.

      It’s the black/red wire 2nd one up on the door jamb connector. (Shown)


      I don't exactly know what it does pertaining to if its not cut. Mine worked perfect with the exception of the driver door not locking(because it was open). Upon shutting the door and locking the car, they all locked, unlocked. The whole shabang.


      Modified by ThatGuy at 4:22 PM 1-20-2006


    23. Member LG6R's Avatar
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      01-20-2006 07:21 PM #23
      Yes, second from the bottom. I went and bought another connector from RadioShack so i'm just going to start from scratch again. See you in a few hours.

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      01-20-2006 07:24 PM #24
      Quote, originally posted by MerryBerry »
      Yes, second from the bottom. I went and bought another connector from RadioShack so i'm just going to start from scratch again. See you in a few hours.
      Ur a glutten for punishment, instead of that, why not go steal, and by steal i mean find someone local with a totaled gti/jetta/etc... and get it from them. 20 minutes vs a possible hour

    25. Senior Member Dan J Reed's Avatar
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      01-20-2006 07:36 PM #25
      Quote, originally posted by MerryBerry »
      I have crank windows so I couldn't pull off a window switch. But it still doesn't explain why it'll only work every other time to unlock and do nothing when lock is pressed. However, I didn't actually cut the red/black wire. I just spliced into it to see if everything would work properly before I permanantly cut it. Did everything in the car's original locking work right after you cut it and didn't yet hook the other wire up? Because I wouldn't want to cut it for nothing. What was that wire originally designed to do?

      Hey, I got manual windows too. You NEEEEEEEEeeeeeddd to CUT the wire. TRUST me, I thought the same thing!!!!


    26. Senior Member Dan J Reed's Avatar
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      01-20-2006 07:39 PM #26
      Quote, originally posted by MerryBerry »
      Yes, second from the bottom. I went and bought another connector from RadioShack so i'm just going to start from scratch again. See you in a few hours.

      Yea, the soldering of the pins is a pain... but you can do it. Just go easy with the solder. I used a small pair of needle nose to jamb the wires into the nylon block.


    27. 01-20-2006 07:39 PM #27
      so what does the wire going into the door actually do, since cutting it has not done anything to the central locking system?

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      01-20-2006 07:41 PM #28
      its the signal wire, but to verify look in the bentley or if you have a 98+ with the switch, check if the wire is present

    29. 01-20-2006 07:51 PM #29
      oh alright, I trusted Dan in that it simply needs to be cut and not spliced into. Just trying to figure out how you can just simply cut the wire and it does not affect anything at all.

    30. Senior Member Dan J Reed's Avatar
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      01-20-2006 07:57 PM #30
      ^ well lets put it this way.

      It *does* do something.

      When you move your driver's door lock pin up and down, all the doors lock and unlock.. right?

      When you cut the wire, and rewire it to the switch, you more or less move that lock button function - to the center console.

      In other words, your driver's door lock no longer controls the other door locks, its now run by the cental switch. HOWEVER the "key" tumbler on the outside is ANOTHER wire, and that function STILL works.

      By NOT cutting the wire, you send a 12v -/+ back into the same ckt, and cause a small short in the system.

      The only thing this version does versus the factoy center lock button is allow to lock, lock, lock - the system. Its always a lock/unlock/lock/unlock cycle - just like the door pin.

      Trust me, cut the wire, and then touch the "new" wire right to ground, and then power and then ground - its gonna lock/unlock/lock - (or do at least two of them.. depending on where the setup was last left off..)


      Modified by Dan J Reed at 1:00 AM 1-21-2006


    31. 01-20-2006 08:05 PM #31
      Thanks for the explanation, I just like to know what im cutting

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      01-20-2006 08:08 PM #32
      dan j reed is the man

      you have a cabby emergency flasher writeup?


    33. Senior Member Dan J Reed's Avatar
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      01-20-2006 08:35 PM #33
      ^ no.... but whats wrong with them?

    34. 01-20-2006 09:40 PM #34
      i admire you electrical guru's

    35. Member Air_Cooled_Nut's Avatar
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      01-20-2006 09:48 PM #35
      Quote, originally posted by Dan J Reed »

      When you move your driver's door lock pin up and down, all the doors lock and unlock.. right?

      When you cut the wire, and rewire it to the switch, you more or less move that lock button function - to the center console.

      In other words, your driver's door lock no longer controls the other door locks, its now run by the cental switch. HOWEVER the "key" tumbler on the outside is ANOTHER wire, and that function STILL works.

      By NOT cutting the wire, you send a 12v -/+ back into the same ckt, and cause a small short in the system...


      Instead of cutting the wire, how about inserting a diode? Wouldn't that allow the door pin locking feature to work AS WELL AS the added console switch?
      95 Jetta GL 2.0L, chipped, intake, exhaust, compression, cam, close-ratio w/Peloquin, etc.
      72 VW Squareback, rag top, 2.0L, parents original owners
      76 VW Riviera Bus, the family camper -- '13 Touareg Executive
      06 Ducati Sport Classic 1000...only motorcycles can feed the need for speed

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