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    VWVortex


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    Thread: What tools are needed to change brake system?

    1. 09-18-2005 10:26 PM #1
      I will be putting on 4 rotors and 4 brake pads on my 2001 VW Jetta 1.8T.

      I know I will need the caliper tool. What tool will I need to loosen the caliper off the rotor...is it one of the J shape tools that has a octagon shape? DOT3 brake fluid should be fine right?


    2. Banned
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      09-19-2005 02:27 PM #2
      Make sure you have the following tools for your brake pad/rotor job as the Bentley manual doesn't explicitly list them:

      MkIV Rear brakes:
      # rear-brake caliper piston reset tool - to push the piston back so you can fit new brake pads in (see notes below)
      # 8mm hex-bolt driver
      # 13mm socket
      # 15mm thin open-end wrench (many ordinary wrenches are too thick to fit in the tight spot so you may need to use a bicycle wrench)
      # Philips or Torx T30 screwdriver (for rotor set screw)
      # slot screwdriver

      MkIV Front brakes:
      # generic caliper piston reset tool or c-clamp
      # 7mm hex-bolt driver
      # 18mm socket (for removing caliper carrier on 1.8T/VR6/R32/TT only)
      # Philips and/or Torx T30 screwdriver (for rotor set screw)
      # slot screwdriver
      # pliers (for anti-rattle spring clip on 1.8T/VR6/R32/TT only)

      Brake bleeding tools:
      # 11mm or 7/16" mini box wrench or flare-nut wrench for bleeder nipple
      # 3 feet 1/4" inner-diameter clear aquarium tubing (for bleed nipple)
      # new brake fluid (DOT4/DOT5.1 - not DOT5)
      # power bleeder plus pressure source (optional)
      # 2x4 block of wood (place under brake pedal to prevent master cylinder over-extension for manual bleeding)
      # empty milk jug and cap (for old brake fluid)
      # turkey baster (to add/remove fluid from the reservoir

      Brake hose/flex-line replacement
      # 11mm or 7/16" flare-nut wrench (to avoid stripping)
      # 15mm open-ended wrench or mini adjustable wrench (to hold stock flex hose in place)
      # 9/16" or 14mm flare-nut wrench (some stainless braided hoses require specific sizes)
      # 11mm socket and torque wrench (torquing banjo-bolt to 26 ft-lbs)
      # needle-nose pliers (for pulling off old brake-line clip)
      # oil-change drain tray (to catch dripping brake fluid)

      Miscellaneous:
      # WD-40 or liquid wrench for loosening bolts/rotor screws
      # brake parts/carb cleaner spray
      # anti-squeal brake paste for the back of the brake pads
      # high-temperature brake lube for caliper guide pins
      # anti-seize paste for wheel hubs and lug bolts
      # jacks and jack stands
      # rubber mallet
      # extra jack stands to rest calipers on while working
      # Robert Bentley Publishers shop manual
      # 3/8" and/or 1/2" ratchet with adapters and extensions
      # torque wrench
      # 17mm lug nut socket

      Note on rear-caliper piston tool:
      Instead of paying $50 for the VW or similar custom tool, you can use a generic $5 import "cube" tool available at most national-chain part stores.
      # One side of the cube has 4 prongs. Grind or file off 2 diagonally opposite aka kitty-corner prongs to allow the cube to fit the vw rear brake piston.
      # Use with a 3/8" ratchet. It can be easier to fasten the rear caliper back onto the carrier without the rotor in place while using this tool. That way you get a little extra leverage.
      # Use as follows: engage the two prongs and turn the piston 180° clockwise. Remove the tool. Use a generic caliper tool or a c-clamp and push the piston in about 2mm. Keep alternating back and forth between the cube tool and the c-clamp until the piston is almost all the way in. If you are strong enough, you may not even need the c-clamp - just push with the cube tool as you turn. Instead of the cube, you can even use needle-nose pliers, but then you definitely need the c-clamp.
      # Even with this special tool, the rear brakes can be rather difficult, so make sure you have plenty of time. I still recommend purchasing or renting the $50 professional tool cause it is much easier to use.
      # If you are totally confused by all this, just take your wheels off and look at the brakes up close. Its simpler than it sounds on paper. And get the Bentley publishers shop manual for your car. That book pays for itself after one or two jobs.

      Rear brake tools:

      http://www.harborfreight.com/c...40732


    3. 09-19-2005 05:23 PM #3
      I will just re-iterate the need for the THIN 15mm open box wrench for the rears. Otherwise you're dead in the water. Even with friends' to help.

      Dan, you mind as well throw that bicycle wrench in your auto tool box. We seem to run into this issue every time.


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      09-19-2005 05:25 PM #4
      Will do!

    5. 07-22-2007 08:13 PM #5
      Is there a certain year VW that you need a thin 15mm? I just did a 2002 1.8t Jetta and a standard 15mm open end wrench worked fine.
      08 IS-F Ultrasonic Blue 11.9@120mph
      02 VW Jetta 1.8t (daily)

    6. 07-23-2007 08:28 PM #6
      thin 15mm is for holding the rear slide pin still when threading in the bolt. i've always somehow managed w/ a regular sized 15mm where once it starts getting tight where it pinch's the tool i back it out like 1/2 off of the nut and then just a bit more tension on the bolt and the nut holds itself in position.

      got to love vw's... they couldnt have made that peice 2mm wider?


    7. Junior Member gregrsjetta's Avatar
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      08-09-2009 05:38 PM #7
      I did my back brakes without removing the carrier, so I did not need the hex. The rotor went in and out no problem.

    8. 08-09-2009 06:13 PM #8
      Materials other than pads and rotors...
      "synthetic caliper grease"...to lube sliding pins and the parts on the carriers where pad slide on.
      blue Loctite..to replace the locking compound on the rear lock bolts..otherwise use new bolts.
      Brake Cleen...to clean stuff...like sliding pins B4 greasin up.
      Antisieze..for the rotor lock screws...some in the "salt belt" will also use this on wheel lugs..but VW doesn't reccomend this.

      Great tool list a few posts back! I ground down an ol 15mm open ended wrench for the rear caliper lock nuts years ago..keep it in my "special VW tools" drawer..which is gettin fuller since I bought a MKV..14mm triple sqauare bits, 18mm triple squre bit for rear axle bolts, 16mm taperproff triple square bit for tranny drain plugs..etc.

      96 Golf...Gone...But not forgotten..Great ride!
      2000 Passat GLX...Gone...But not forgotten either..have scars on my knuckles from all the "wrenching" to keep it on the road!
      2008 Rabbit S, VWsport springs/OEM shocks, GTI brakes all around, GTI rear swaybar...best balanced car I've had in a while!

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      10-14-2011 09:41 AM #9
      Hate to bring this back, but what's the 7mm driver needed for on the fronts? A 7mm socket won't work? I'm doing my fronts tomorrow and want to be prepared; just cheap rotors and pads from advance auto parts.

    10. 10-18-2011 05:58 PM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by RadRacer513 View Post
      Hate to bring this back, but what's the 7mm driver needed for on the fronts? A 7mm socket won't work? I'm doing my fronts tomorrow and want to be prepared; just cheap rotors and pads from advance auto parts.
      Allen bit is needed to loosen "guide pins" for VW front calipers....clean these babies up good and relube with "synthetic caliper grease" when changin pads so the calipers will "float" smoothly and retract away from rotor to prevent "brake drag"..slows you down, wastes gas, and if it's bad enuff can overheat brakes and ruin the grease in your front wheel bearings...leading to bearing replacement..$$$ repairs!
      96 Golf...Gone...But not forgotten..Great ride!
      2000 Passat GLX...Gone...But not forgotten either..have scars on my knuckles from all the "wrenching" to keep it on the road!
      2008 Rabbit S, VWsport springs/OEM shocks, GTI brakes all around, GTI rear swaybar...best balanced car I've had in a while!

    11. Member
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      2001 (AWD engine) GTI :: 2011 Shadow Blue GTI
      05-26-2012 08:33 PM #11
      I'm scared to use this but...."Permatex-Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube" says, " Apply Caliper Lube to pins, slides, bushings, pistons and rubber sleeves and seals. Lubricant may also be used as a noise suppressor to eliminate caliper brake squeal. DO NOT APPLY TO BRAKING SURFACE OF CALIPER PADS."

      SYNTHETIC LUBRICANT ITEM # 24110 --11 bucks roughly at autozone. The only other one i saw was CRC that has MOLLY in it or w/e and it was black/gray, this one is blue/green.

      Anyone use this and not have issues? I am doing this tomorrow

      V/r

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      05-26-2012 08:37 PM #12
      I hope THIS THREAD meant THIS! This is what i grabbed (it was used and returned lol....but w/e was last bottle other than CRC one with moly or whatever in it

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      05-26-2012 11:29 PM #13
      ?

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      04-16-2013 10:13 PM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by Hedgehodge View Post
      I hope THIS THREAD meant THIS! This is what i grabbed (it was used and returned lol....but w/e was last bottle other than CRC one with moly or whatever in it
      Super late reply, but yes.. that stuff works, too! lol
      2002 APR Tuned VW GTI 1.8t w/K04
      2001 Audi A4 2.8 Quattro

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    15. Member theirlaw's Avatar
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      20th GTI
      06-07-2014 04:05 PM #15
      That Harbor Freight linked tool set... will that work for both front and rear brakes?

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