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    Thread: FAQ: O2J Transmission Oil Change

    1. Member elio's Avatar
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      08-15-2010 11:27 PM #51
      Friends, do you have comments or a review about the Motul MotylGear 75W-90 (http://www.motul.com.au/product_line...ox/gear09.html)? I am planing to do an oil change in my 02J EGY 5spd tranny. According to the manual it should use G50 or G51 75W-90 syntetic gear oil but I have read that VW OEM fluid are good but out there exist better options.
      For the geeks, Motul MotylGear 75W-90 is 16.7cSt @ 100ºC and Motul Gear 300 75W-90 is 15.2cSt @ 100ºC and both are GL-4 & GL-5 approved. I take those number from TDI forums. There exist a nice thread about G52 tranny fluids.
      Comments are welcome.
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    2. 08-23-2010 09:38 PM #52
      I just bought a case (12, 1-quart bottles) of Chevron Delo 80W-90 for the rear differential of my S2000. (rated GL-4, GL-5 and MT-1). A case was the minimum order.

      Of course, I don't need all 12 quarts for the diff of one sports car!

      If you can't find it in your area, I'll sell off my excess quarts until they're gone. How about $9 shipped?

    3. Member elio's Avatar
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      08-23-2010 11:23 PM #53
      Friends, if you want to know a little more about the different mistery manual tranny oils that VW uses take a look at this link, http://www.fuchs-europe.de/gear-oils-cars.html.
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    4. Member animaniac's Avatar
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      08-24-2010 12:24 AM #54
      Those fuchs oils are GL5 apart from the 75W gl4 one.

      My gearbox went a few weeks back ran perfect and out of nowhere the 4th gear gave way when i was cruising up the highway.

      That box did 177k miles the highest mileage gearbox i've owned.

      Just had a recon box fitted by a local garage £500 for box plus £200 labour plus vat at 17.5% is £122 in flaming tax good job it went now and not after 1st jan 2011 because the tax goes up 2.5% to 20% that would have been an extra £18 you guys have it easier than us brits.

      Well i've done a fair few miles on it so i thought i'd change the oil, just got some castrol syntrax from uk halfords on trade card for £10.39 per litre, castrol syntrax is a 75w/90 GL4 /GL5 part synthetic.

      I was tempted to try the synthetic smx-s 75W/85 but in the past i've had crunching problems when hot possibley due to it being too thin 85 and too slick.

      So i thought i'd go with the syntrax, i've had valvoline durablend in the 02J and that was from 123k til 177k so thats 123k on vw oil and 54k on durablend.

      I'm pretty sure the durablend helped it to get the 177k, but i soppose the gears can let go at anytime due to the stress there under, at least the diff didnt go on me.

      With regards to the extreme cold a 75W/90 oil will suit you good the 75W should flow better and cure possible stiffness / crunching when cold.
      Last edited by animaniac; 08-24-2010 at 12:35 AM.

    5. Member elio's Avatar
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      08-24-2010 10:29 PM #55
      Quote Originally Posted by animaniac View Post
      Those fuchs oils are GL5 apart from the 75W gl4 one.
      Our gearboxs should use GL4 oils, GL5 EP lubricants can produce some damage in the synchros due to it different additives.

      I post my previous info due that exist many people, including me, looking for the best oil for our trannies. Also I need to know which oils are VW ones to compare it.
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    6. Member mcgyver7923's Avatar
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      07-20-2011 09:23 PM #56
      Quote Originally Posted by genikz View Post
      [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] for Chevron Delo Gear Oil. It's a little slow to thin out, but held up very well on the track with many downshifts and fast upshifts.


      Modified by genikz at 3:43 PM 3-28-2006
      You still running this at the track? How has it held up? I use penzoil synchromesh and I'm on my second change after stock. No issues and the synchros seem to be holding up well. I'm not against a change, but so far soo good on penzoil synchromesh.
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    7. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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      08-29-2011 04:55 PM #57
      Just got my blackstone labs report back on the Lubro Moly 75W90 lube. Ran it for 30k miles in my O2J



      End result. Not good. Don't buy this stuff (or my transmission is going out...we'll see)
      Effective Viscosity: 75W90 ... 80W90

      Refilled with Amsoil GL-4 75W90 MTG
      Last edited by groggory; 08-29-2011 at 04:59 PM.
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      11-02-2011 11:45 PM #58
      Quote Originally Posted by groggory View Post
      To preface, this is for an '02 GTI 1.8t 5spd. The procedure will be very similar on an 02a, 02b, 02c, and 02d type transmission.
      Note that for Mk5 Cars they changed the drain & Fill plug style. There is an updated tool you need to buy if you want to follow this procedure on the Mk5. Also, there may be slight differences in the under-engine plastic shields. The basic procedure is still the same.
      Ok, a few questions I've pulled after a good amount of research...
      1) What type of oil?
      --BG Ultraguard 75W90 Full Synthetic, Part#750 (NOT #750A)
      ---This is reportedly sold as GM Synchromesh, Part#12377916
      --Redline MT90 (Slow to warm up, but wonderful once it does)
      ---Use in Warmer Climates (0F +)
      --Redline MTL
      ---Use in Colder Climates
      --BG Synchroshift
      --Royal Purple Max Gear 75W90
      --Amsoil synth sae 75W90 MTG
      --Castrol Syntec 75W90 GL-4
      --Chevron Delo 80w90 (This is GL4+GL5 Boron Based, so it won't hurt your synchro. Many report this superior to everything)
      --Specialty Formulation MTL-R info buy
      ---No known long term testing of this oil...please comment if you've used this
      What has everyone been running in their 1.8T 5-speed lately? I'm trying to determine the best fill for mine, and it seems many people are having good luck with the VW standard G070 726 A2. What is everyone else running? I need something for severe winters (down to -20F).

      Also, how do I find out my transmission code? I have a 1.8T 5 speed gas engine. Thanks.

    9. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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      11-04-2011 03:13 AM #59
      I have amsoil 75w90 mtf. Not a huge fan... Kinda notchy.

      Had vw fluid. Don't do it! The wear characteristics suck.

      Had lubro moly. Wear characteristics suck.

      Had redline mtl. My favorite so far.
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    10. Junior Member cbenjes's Avatar
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      11-04-2011 06:53 AM #60
      I agree. MTL has been great to me. Had some grinding problems going into 1st with both my departed '99 TDI NB and its replacement, a '98 2L NB. Once I swapped out the transmission oil with MTL, the grinding stopped within a day on both vehicles. Some folks think MTL is too light. It's been perfect for me. Sure beats replacing a syncro.

    11. Member
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      11-05-2011 03:58 PM #61
      Quote Originally Posted by groggory View Post
      I have amsoil 75w90 mtf. Not a huge fan... Kinda notchy.

      Had vw fluid. Don't do it! The wear characteristics suck.

      Had lubro moly. Wear characteristics suck.

      Had redline mtl. My favorite so far.
      Where are the wear characteristics from? I read through a big thread at TDIClub, and they seem to love the OEM VW fluid (the new one G070). Did someone send for a VOA?

      I also see you're in Long Beach. Outside of weather paradise, how would this fluid perform in severe weather conditions? I've got a really bad winter coming up, and need something that will perform in it.

      Thanks.

    12. Member
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      11-06-2011 07:09 PM #62
      Quote Originally Posted by groggory View Post
      I have amsoil 75w90 mtf. Not a huge fan... Kinda notchy.

      Had vw fluid. Don't do it! The wear characteristics suck.

      Had lubro moly. Wear characteristics suck.

      Had redline mtl. My favorite so far.
      What about people who say that Redline MTL will give you better shifting but will shorten the life of the transmission. Some say that gear oils like Amsoil 75W-90 will give you notchier shifting but are better for the transmission. Do you have any advice on that point?

      Sick ride, BTW.

    13. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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      11-06-2011 09:42 PM #63
      Look in this thread. I have an oil analysis that says in short that vw trans oil fluid is hard on the trans. Not definitive, bit enough for me

      Mtl is not good at first when cold, then gets great as it warms up.

      Havent had amsoil long... Seems alright so far. I can bet this stuff will work well in the cold.
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    14. Member
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      11-07-2011 12:46 AM #64
      Quote Originally Posted by groggory View Post
      Look in this thread. I have an oil analysis that says in short that vw trans oil fluid is hard on the trans. Not definitive, bit enough for me

      Mtl is not good at first when cold, then gets great as it warms up.

      Havent had amsoil long... Seems alright so far. I can bet this stuff will work well in the cold.
      The UOA for the VW fluid is no longer a working JPG. Also, that was probably the G050 or G052 oil. They are now up to G070 which people seem to love. There are a few threads at TDIClub where people really like it.

      http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=192534

      http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread...132884&page=39 - lots of love for the G070. It's an updated formula and is fully synthetic.

    15. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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      11-08-2011 06:58 PM #65
      Updated with the new factory fill
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      Welcome to the world of racing! Budgets are ALWAYS exceeded, deadlines are never meet, end-goals never reached, and wives always unhappy... it's all worth it though!

    16. 05-16-2012 02:40 AM #66
      Quote Originally Posted by 2004srt4 View Post
      does anyone know how the Delo 80w90 stands up in the winter months. i have a 1.8t mk4 and just bought some from fischer oil. i live in northern jersey so winter isnt too crazy but it does get really cold sometimes.
      My experience has been that it is super stiff in temperatures below 40 degrees F (to the point that it's almost impossible to shift for the first 2 minutes after starting the car). For that reason, I'm switching back to OE VW fluid.

    17. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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      05-16-2012 09:45 AM #67
      Quote Originally Posted by Geeked View Post
      My experience has been that it is super stiff in temperatures below 40 degrees F (to the point that it's almost impossible to shift for the first 2 minutes after starting the car). For that reason, I'm switching back to OE VW fluid.
      I hear the new revision oe fluid is really good
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    18. Member animaniac's Avatar
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      05-16-2012 09:22 PM #68
      I may try some.

      I use the castrol syntrax universal semi synthetic 75w/90.

      My father brought a 2000 passat and the gears were notchy, mainly in 2nd and 3rd.

      It engaged reverse smooth, when you allow the gearbox to slow before you engage reverse.

      So we knew the clutch wasnt at fault, it was either an oil problem or a synchro problem.

      I went to the local parts store halfords and it turns out the castrol have a new range new formula ''performance series'' gold coloured bottles.

      They didnt have two bottles of the universal so i went for the fully synthetic, i have tried this in the passed and it did seem to cause crunching when hot.

      But my father drives steady not much high rpms so i thought it wouldnt cause him any problems.

      We had it put in and it engages the gear super smooth, it did feel better when he drove it first time, but it wasnt 100% rather like 80% but after a few days of driving it smoothed out and it's beeing great eversince.
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    19. 05-16-2012 10:26 PM #69
      Quote Originally Posted by groggory View Post
      I hear the new revision oe fluid is really good
      I heard the same, and if fact that's what I just switched over to today. I can't comment on how it shifts in teh cold, but in cool temps and after warming up, every single gear shifts exactly the same--a very slight bit of notchy-ness, but no grinding (this on an O2J gearbox w over 200,000 miles on it).

      I'm hopeful that it won't be as stiff in cold weather as the Chevron 80w90 fluid was

    20. Member animaniac's Avatar
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      05-17-2012 07:44 PM #70
      You've done well to make a gearbox last that long, i've had the rivets fail in the 020 at 160k i think well over 140k.

      And the 02A lasted 155k 3rd failed and the 02j about the same but the 4th failed on that.

      I can only seem to get the engines over 200k.
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    21. Member
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      09-06-2012 02:12 PM #71
      I'm tired of the OEM fluid. I went 55k miles on it before I changed it (trusted VW's lifetime claim, kicking myself for that one but oh well) because it was just so horrible. Went to MT-90 and loved it in the warm California summer and at the track but it's really sticky below 60-70°F. I live in WA now and I'm back to the OEM stuff because of the cooler climate but I'm annoyed that it gets kinda crappy feeling above 70-75, never feels great when it's colder than that, and it's due for a change.

      Anyway, reading this and several other threads I think I'll give MTL a go for this Washington winter. (Would love to try the Chevron Delo but it's harder to find than a unicorn with a leprechaun riding on its back)

      EDIT: Actually, does anyone know anything about MT-85? I know from experience that MT-90 needs a fair deal of heat to be in its element but MTL sounds like it might be too thin. MT-85 is in the middle (GL-4 75w85 instead of the 70w80 for the MTL and 75w90 for the MT-90?)

      http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=140&pcid=7

      EDIT AGAIN FOR GREAT JUSTICE: So I read some stuff on the Nissan forums and on the Bob's The Oil Guy forums and it seems that MT-85 is really just a new product from RedLine to address A) the Hyundai/Kia/Mazda/Nissan OEM market and B) the folks who were already mixing MTL and MT-90. Considering I've tried MT-90 and know it's not going to work in the temperatures I want (but works well when it's warm), and reading that the MTL sounds like it's pushing the temp range too far in the other direction, I went ahead and ordered the MT-85. It's GL-4 and it's in between two well-known gear oils for this application so I thought...what's the risk, really? I'll report back with my impressions.
      Last edited by clarkma5; 09-06-2012 at 06:08 PM.

    22. Member FACTORYBOOST's Avatar
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      11-01-2012 02:17 PM #72
      Hey does anyone have any experience with the Motul 300?
      I've heard a lot of good things about it, but I'm not sure about just dropping $55 for a flush on just a couple good reviews.
      If not I'll probably just go with the G 070726A2 OEM fluid since I get it for $9/L
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    23. Member
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      01-31-2013 01:09 AM #73
      Just wanted to add my experience. I used the AMSOIL Syncromesh. This was a few months ago and it has worked GREAT. I live in a pretty cold climate, and it has performed great in low temps. It seems a lot of them now don't do so well in low temperatures. I've been really happy and would recommend it to anyone.

    24. 08-13-2013 11:11 AM #74
      Local VW dealer always has G060 on hand which is what I wanted since its basically what came in it. For $13.37 a bottle its about what you'd expect for synthetic gear oil, and its cheap insurance that you are doing the right thing for the trans and not guessing by using another brand. You don't know exactly what additives other oils have and how they will react with the VW trans.

      VW's own website states that G060 (the G52 replacement) is the correct oil for it and same thing with the dealer software . G070 is for the newer trans (post MKIV). Its a german trans, just use what it was designed for. The trans is a little expensive (compared to the value of the car) to be playing oil roulette with it as far as using other oil manufacturers goes.

      Also no need to change it often. Its full syn and doesn't even go through extreme heat cycles so it should almost never degrade. After 108k miles my trans is still like new. I'm only replacing the fluid because a pivot pin o-ring has been weeping and its starting to leave drips. The level is still around the fill hole and the fluid is for the most part very clean and smells like any other syn gear oil. Maybe I got a good trans from the factory though.


      EDIT: To make a long story short, there was no O-Ring on the pivot pin.... I do not believe the dealer replaced it, let alone put the old one back in when they must have drained the trans to replaced my clutch a while ago. If the trans oil has to be drained to do the clutch that was done at about 68/70k miles, about 6 or 7 years ago, then that is what happened. The evidence of the weep from the pin started a month or so after the clutch was replaced.

      Ever since a month or so after the clutch was replaced I had complained to the dealer about an oil drip the car was leaving. It wasn't much, but every once in awhile there was a fresh drip under the car. The bottom of the trans and part of the motor oil pan was coated in the oil within a week or so of wiping everything down, the dogbone engine mount and the subframe were also coated in oil. At least my subframe and inside parts of the driver side LCA hasn't rusted because of this, haha.

      Thinking it was oil running from when the valve cover I kind of ignored it (I had replaced the valve cover and no more oil coating the side of the motor for quite a while now). The motor and trans oil were always at the proper level and It wasn't dripping everywhere so I never worried about it. It didn't smell like motor oil, and didn't quite smell like gear oil (I was thinking 75w90 and 75w140 that goes in axles and truck manual gear boxes).

      About a year ago it started to leave a small drip every time I parked. I still couldn't find the leak after wiping things down. Trans/motor were full. Last week I found it when I had the car jacked up to check wheel speed sensors and lube my caliper guide pins. It was the pivot pin on the bottom of the case. After wiping everything down, it took about 30 minutes for the oil to seep to the edges of the tab on the pin that bolts it to the case. I was very surprised and a little annoyed (at the dealer) when I pulled the pin out and there was no o-ring there.... Not the first time I had a problem after having this dealer service the vehicle and then finding a problem... I seriously doubt the o-ring would have rotted out, dissolved, or fallen apart because its not exposed to the elements and is completely covered up by the tab on the pivot pin. Any ideas? Pretty sure the tech at the dealer just forgot to put it back in.
      Last edited by frag85; 08-14-2013 at 03:30 PM.

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