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    Thread: Brake Service, Overhaul, Brake Pad and Disc (rotor) Replacement

    1. 05-11-2009 03:00 PM #101
      Your mileage and type of driving is similar to mine - I've got just over 53k miles on my '05 and have a 70 mile round-trip commute with about 85% of it being on suburban interstate. My check pads warning came on about a week ago. As it happens, I had to pull a rear wheel over the weekend - the rear brakes had plenty of meat left on the pads, wearing, but not in need of immediated replacement. As a cross-check, I pulled the opposite front wheel. The front pads did appear to be down close to the 3/32" point, so it seems that it is time for a brake job. I'll be doing both pads and rotors, so I'm not too worried about getting to the metal on the fronts, but expect the work will get done before that occurs.

    2. 05-11-2009 10:11 PM #102
      I hadn't noticed this old post until now when it came back up to the top of the list. I have read through most of the post.
      I just wanted to mention that both my front and rear pads were replaced at 40K service. The dealership did recommend rotor replacement and I decided to go the cheaper route. I'll try to report back and let folks know if this was a mistake to not replace rotors too. The tech did take the car out for a drive to try and properly seat the pads. I have only put about 2K miles on the car since the pads were changed out.
      Robert

    3. Member brosen's Avatar
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      08-16-2009 11:46 PM #103
      Checking the options for my car for the front disc brakes is 1ZL and rear disc brakes is 1KP, meaning my front discs are 12 inches and 30 mm ?, that's weird because it's a NAR car, they should be the bigger ones ??
      Also checking the CPO certification report it says:

      - Front Rotors: New = 30 mm, Limit = 28 mm, Current = 29 mm
      - Rear Rotors: New = 22 mm, Limit = 20 mm, Current = 21 mm

      Their information does not match the specs discussed here ??
      I checked ALLDATAdiy.com information, and for the Front Rotors there are 2 options for a V8:

      - HP-2 (Diameter = 323 mm, Thickness = 30 mm, Wear Limit = 28 mm)
      - 2FNR 42 AL (Diameter = 360 mm, Thickness = 34 mm, Wear Limit = 31 mm)

      The information from All Data match the CPO report.
      I know Brakes were changed at 50,000 miles (previous owner, I bought the car with 74,000 miles), maybe the previous dealer installed the wrong ones ?, smaller size means cheaper ones ?


      Modified by brosen at 10:57 PM 8-16-2009

    4. Senior Member PanEuropean's Avatar
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      08-17-2009 02:23 AM #104
      I think it is unlikely that a NAR specification V8 would have the 360mm rotors. But, that is an opinion, not a fact.
      Michael

    5. Member brosen's Avatar
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      08-17-2009 08:09 PM #105
      UPDATE:
      Today I removed the wheel and measured the Rotor (Disc), I have 1.300 in = 33 mm (I measured inside the disc, to avoid the disc lip), I would say that's pretty good considering the disc was changed 25,000 miles ago and I still have 67% of disc life remaining. I took some pictures of the disc and pads, I was not able to measure the pads I do not have the tool, but they seem to be pretty decent, what do you think ?










      Modified by brosen at 8:49 PM 8-17-2009

    6. Senior Member PanEuropean's Avatar
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      08-17-2009 11:38 PM #106
      Looks like you have lots and lots of life left in there.
      Michael

    7. 10-01-2009 03:24 PM #107
      Would somebody who's actually done the job care to post some detailed instructions on how to change the pads (and rotors?)? I've changed pads & rotors on numerous occasions on the Impala I previously owned (it was cheap motoring!), but when the wheels were off my Phaeton for a tyre change, I couldn't see how to get the pads out/in. The Impala required the removal of one pin to allow the top of the caliper pivot, and my 944 Turbo has a spring clip arrangement which is very simple once you know the trick of getting it off.
      I'd go to the dealer, but having just been robbed blind by them for front pads ($400+) for a job that probably took them 30 minutes, I'd prefer to do the rears myself.
      I don't intend to change rotors, despite having trawled this entire thread, but it'd be useful to know about how to do it (removing the caliper, etc).

    8. 10-01-2009 05:26 PM #108
      The site link below will show you what you have to do - even though it is re. Audi A8 - and, believe me, you do want to spend the $25 on the special tool, trying to compress the the piston while rotating it with the lousy little multi-purpose cube thing and a ratchet is not worth the agony, and you sure don't want to try to do the C-clamp and channel-lock method - to begin with, there really isn't a good place on the back of the caliper to rest the fulcrum of the C-clamp - it's all taken up with the parking brake mechanism, which is not sufficiently sturdy for you to be compressing against.
      http://www.audipages.com/Tech_....html
      Rick

    9. 10-01-2009 06:47 PM #109
      Thanks for the link. How certain are you that the caliper assembly is the same on the A8? Visually, it appears to be completely different, and significantly smaller. When I looked (and maybe I just didn't look hard enough), I couldn't even see any caliper pins to undo. There also didn't appear to be any pad wear sensors on the A8.


      Modified by invisiblewave at 8:51 AM 10-5-2009

    10. Member V10Mike's Avatar
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      10-02-2009 05:46 AM #110
      These instructions are fine as far as they go for the rear brakes on a Phaeton, but they do not include the installation and connection of the brake wear warning sensor, and the anti-rattle shims are different. Both are pretty obvious, however, if you take note during disassembly, particularly on the routing of the wear sensor cable.
      The Phaeton rotor is located by one Phillips screw, not two socket head screws, and as mentioned above DO invest in the special tool for retracting the caliper piston.
      My (non OEM) pad kit came with new M8 self locking bolts (required), new anti-rattle shims and new wear sensors included.

    11. 10-02-2009 12:22 PM #111
      Yeah - my replacement pads (ATE) also came with new micro-encapsulated self-locking M8 bolts, new anti-rattle shims and wear sensors.
      The wear sensor connection is fairly self-evident, if you take the time to follow the cable and to determine how to properly open the cover on the protector for the wire loom. The method of disconnecting the sensor cable's plug from the socket, which is inside the wire loom protector, is not so self-evident. Unless you've done it or a similar connector before, it may be a bit counter-intuitive, but it's simple enough to figure out.
      Two things to bear in mind, depending on how the pad wear sensors are configured - it is important to firmly secure the sensors tightly against the back plate of the brake pad if you don't want to end up getting an early and erroneous warning of pad wear and it is also essential to properly torque both the caliper mount (if you've removed it to replace the disc) and the brake caliper, when you do the reinstallation.
      The point of the Audi-DIY link was so that someone could actually see what the base process needed to be - to do repair or maintenance work, one needs to have some mechanical skills, experience and intuition, but the more pictures and photos that are available, the easier it becomes to understand what is required. The line drawings in the Bentley manual are not really sufficient without substantial prior experience.

    12. 10-02-2009 12:36 PM #112
      All I can tell you is that, with the exception of the fact that the A8 does not have the rear pad wear warning sensors, both the front calipers (large) and the rear calipers (smaller) were _substantially_ similar to the ones on my 2005 V8, as was the work required to remove and reinstall them. The rear pads are indeed different - they don't have the springs - and they mount in the caliper in a somewhat different manner. The parking brake mechanism on the back (inboard) side of the caliper is different - you shouldn't need to 'fiddle' with it, just don't break it by, for instance, using a C-clamp to compress the caliper piston.
      If you've done this kind of project before, it shouldn't be too difficult to accomplish successfully on the Phaeton. If you've never done it before, I'd suggest either partnering with someone whose skills you trust and who has, or biting the bullet and letting the dealer do it.

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      10-04-2009 03:48 PM #113
      Recently I found the front rotors (with pads) and the rear rotors (also with pads) on Ebay for a price of less than $ 400.00.
      I did some checking, since the seller was not 100% clear whether the parts would fit and ended up purchasing everything.
      So far I have gotten the front rotors and pads. (rotors from TRW and the pads from Jurid)
      I started Saturday afternoon to replace the front brakes and it turned out to be quiet easy.
      Here are the only little unexpected events. The guide pins for the calipers use a torx socket (used to be allen) and the caliper mounting bracket is attached to the wheel knuckle with a bolt using a 21mm head.
      The only real obstacle where both disc securing screws, the ones holding the rotor against the wheel hub. One broke off and the other one I had to drill out.
      Since the rotors where the universal type (to fit Audi and VW) there was no mounting hole for
      for those little phillips screws, so I did not repair the threads on the hubs.
      Assembly was straight forward and fast.
      One note, I saw in this thread that there were concerns regarding the sensing wire being dangle around. No worry, VW supplied a wire guide for the sensor wire. The guide is inserted in the upper guide pin hole.
      On a scale of 1 to 10, I would rate this job a 3.5 (using regular and air tools).
      Considering that the little screws are rusted stuck and therefore the need for drilling arrises I would say that the job should take between 2 and 3 h for the front brakes.
      I hope to get the parts for the rear during the week and will report.

    14. 10-05-2009 11:56 AM #114
      If you rate a job where you have to drill out a rotor mounting screw as a 3.5, I'd be interested to hear what kind of job you rate as a 10!! How much do you charge for a clutch change on a 944 Turbo??

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      10-05-2009 01:03 PM #115
      When I still had my shop, I remember that we once had a 944 with broken bolt on the bell housing. We ended up taking the engine, the torque tube and the (rear) transmission out. That one I would call a 8.5er job. ( I give this one was not a turbo)
      A 10 job was on my own car, a 93 Audi V8Q, to get to the side of the bellhousing under the exhaust manifold in order to replace the 2 sensors mounted there.
      To drill out the little srews was really easy, since a phillips screw with a messed up center gives the ideal drill guide (provided you have a sharp drill).
      Gernot

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      10-06-2009 04:33 AM #116
      Hi Michael,
      Could you please rehost the pictures that could be found in the following post:
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...32879
      I am going to have my rear pads/discs/bearings changed by my local garage and would like to get the references of Hex bolt item 7 that needs to be replaced (cf. below)
      Quote, originally posted by PanEuropean »
      Rear Wheel Components

      Self-locking hex bolt, item 1 - 35 Nm
      Phillips-head screw, item 5 - 4 Nm
      Hex bolt, item 7 - 90 Nm plus an additional 90° 1/4 turn (needs to be replaced - one time use only)
      The original thickness of the rear disc is 22 mm, the wear limit is 20 mm.

      Thanks,
      P.
      Ps: btw, any other recommendations for changing the rear bearings ?
      Last edited by PanEuropean; 10-07-2012 at 09:10 PM.

    17. Member feared's Avatar
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      10-06-2009 05:13 AM #117
      Does anyone know about retrofitting carbon/ceramic brakes from the 09?
      Also - just found these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...26646

    18. Member
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      10-06-2009 05:40 AM #118
      FWIW, I bought Carbotech Bobcat 1521 ceramic pads to reduce dust. According to Carbotech, they are compatible with standard discs.
      P.

    19. 10-06-2009 08:12 AM #119
      Quote, originally posted by feared »
      Does anyone know about retrofitting carbon/ceramic brakes from the 09?
      Also - just found these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...26646

      You could always go with movits.
      http://www.movitusa.com


    20. Senior Member PanEuropean's Avatar
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      10-06-2009 10:24 AM #120
      Maybe they should have named them "Stop-its".
      Michael

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      May 04 V8
      10-06-2009 05:27 PM #121
      Hi Michael,
      You forgot my request above:
      Quote, originally posted by Zaphh »
      Hi Michael,
      Could you please rehost the pictures that could be found in the following post:
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...32879
      I am going to have my rear pads/discs/bearings changed by my local garage and would like to get the references of Hex bolt item 7 that needs to be replaced (cf. below)
      Thanks,
      P.

    22. Senior Member PanEuropean's Avatar
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      10-06-2009 08:26 PM #122
      Hi Pierre:
      I am having difficulty re-hosting photos in their original locations, so, here are the two photos that you linked to (from earlier in this same discussion)
      Front Brake Components
      Last edited by PanEuropean; 10-07-2012 at 09:10 PM.

    23. Senior Member PanEuropean's Avatar
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      10-06-2009 08:27 PM #123
      Rear Brake Components
      Last edited by PanEuropean; 10-07-2012 at 09:11 PM.

    24. Senior Member PanEuropean's Avatar
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      10-06-2009 08:28 PM #124
      Be aware that the above two illustrations are specific to the brakes fitted to the North American specification vehicles. The brakes fitted to the ROW specification vehicles - especially the V6, V10 and W12 models - may be different.
      Michael

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      10-06-2009 08:39 PM #125
      Hi Michael,
      Thanks for these sketches.
      The part number of these 2 hex bolts seems to be N 909 611 02.
      Thanks,
      P.
      (btw, I have a V8 so the rear assembly should be the good one).


      Modified by Zaphh at 2:46 AM 10-7-2009

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