Anyone have a wiring diagram for the ECU in the 2000 1.8T, my Apexi AVCR is here and I need to find the correct signal wires.
Check this out I actually got all the info I need for every hook up point from a VW tech at the new dealership out here, turns out the guy runs the same boost controller for his talon and new exactly which whires to go for in my Bug, just picked up the details.
He even pointed me to the right wire for a 0->5v sensor on the throttle.
Who would have thought.
So anyone with a New Bettle 2000 who want to run one of these I can now tell you where the wires go. The rest is a breeze.
Still going to get it installed by an Apexi certified installer though.
In simple it is a boost controller with a few side feature, like self learn, rpm and gear based boost levels, 3 settings IE: #1=race #2=stock and #3=off ( this I have to look into a little more as you have to disconnect the factory boost control solenoid but I am guessing off would equate to limp mode)
In their words :- If you are looking for product documentation, Click Here
SUPER AVC TYPE-R
Advanced electronic boost controller
Highly flexible boost control with revolutionary new functions; Vacuum Fluorescent Display (VFD).
The Super AVC-R is the premium closed-loop electronic boost controller on the market. The AVC-R allows flexible control over virtually every aspect of boost control and adds new innovative functions such as injector pulse monitoring and gear specific boost control. Some key functions include: RPM-based boost and solenoid duty cycle control, scramble boost, self learning mode, 2D ghost map trace mode, analog display mode, real time replay and peak hold data modes. The AVC-R utilizes an ultra-fast microprocessor and a high quality solenoid valve to control boost. The result is ultra-fast response and accurate, stable boost control.
Anyway got plans for a K04....... and nitrous
Oh hey do you have the engine diagram for the New Beetle so I can pinpoint the boost control solenoid (N75) I think?
[Modified by FYGTBUG, 7:47 PM 2-4-2002]
[Modified by FYGTBUG, 7:48 PM 2-4-2002]
[Modified by FYGTBUG, 7:49 PM 2-4-2002]
[Modified by FYGTBUG, 7:49 PM 2-4-2002]
Apparently gear selectable is one feature you cant use, but I am going to figure some other way to do the same maybe with the scramble boost feature set that to 6psi push the button in 1st then let it rip in second.
Add 2 buttons to the steering wheel 1 for the scramble and the other for the funky juice.
I dont' understand why you cant' use the gear function? I mean you hook up the rpm signal, and a speed signal and you shoul dbe good to go.
which wire on the NB TB did yo uhave to tap for the TPS, I knew it was there, just never had a chance to go test it out and find it, I can retrace it back to the ECU on the NB diagram and figure it out on the golf jetta. probably the same color anyway.
Sorry Chris I am at work right now I have a complete list of the wires for the NB at home I'll post them tonight.
If that is all it takes for the Gear setting I too dont see why not, I have all the wires located and the install is in 2 weeks, getting a local Apexi Dealer to do it for me.
I have every wire they ask for including the TPS 0->5 volt.
Funny thing, it was a VW dealer that gave them to me, mainly because he too runs the same controller, even if it is in a Talon.
They were all pretty into my car, they like the sound of an upcoming 12 second NB
cool, thanks, I can figure it out myself, but why waste my time back probbing wires if someone already did it. Like I said I will compare them to the golf/jetta/gti wirign diagrams and let everyone know what those wires are.
OK here we go right from the tech mouth or his pen anyway
RPM white wire ECU terminal 82/121
Injector #1 violet wire ecu terminal 96/121
Throttle yellow/green wire ecu terminal 73/121 (0->5volts)
Vehicle speed instrument cluster terminal 28/32
Power #1 Red/Green wire ecu terminal 62/121
Power #2 Black wire ecu terminal 3/121
eg: 3/121 means pin #3 out of 121pins
The only one I didn't get is the ground wire he said ground to the body near ECU.
I am going to check on this.
Hope it helps mine goes in on the 19th, then turbo, Nitrous and a sweet ass 3" side exit twin tip exhaust soon after with dump pipe soon.
Ok sorry it took me a little while, was reading some threads someone pointed out to me.
OK al hte wires are hte same for a golf/jetta/GTI. SO that means if the TPS is correct, the diagram does show two that operate in oppsoite directsions like I have been saying for over a year, then it should work, along with an AFC
Judging by the wires that were supplied to be tapped, the gear based boost should work, unless it is an issue with deviation problems either positive or negative.
the black wire 3/121 is a switched ignition wire, it is basically teh same wire you tap for a turbo timer but at the ECU instead of the ignition switch.
the red/green wire is constant power.
IF theya re called power 1 and 2 like listed above, then you are fine, if it just says constant and switched power use my notes to determine which wire is correct.
Also not sure what is up with teh injector one tap, does the AVCR have a feature to cehck injector on time. IF so that could be very handy, and would be worth it right there for someone liek myself testing stuff, even if I never used it to adjust boost.
Currently I am looking for to use this information for an AFC to adjust the things I test on teh fly so I can tell GIAC what I need a chip programmed for wihtout wasint garretts time, ie cams, larger MAF, larger injectors.
I agree if we have all the wires required tapped all function should actually work.
As for the injector wire this is optional, both the injector and the rpm wire use the same wire from avcr (purple) it allows you to monitor injector signal instead of rpm but this limits the self learning mode when compared to monitoring engine rpm.
Power, I would guess that the black being ignition is better than constant as this will alow it to turn off and on with ignition, it doesnt actually state this but it does say check these items with ignition on ie: does the power come on and avcr illuminate.
I too am looking at the safc these are the wires you need, RPM signal we have that and then either an air flow MAF signal or Pressure signal MAP one of these get cut and connected to an input ouput wire, again I think we have the problem here with voltage from the MAF compared to Japan spec cars.
I am going to talk to my tech about it when I get round to it. Let me know what you find out.
One last point the tech said I can used a body ground next to the ecu yet for safc, though not the avcr it definatley asks for an ECU ground wire, is there a difference? Did you find an ecu ground.
The SAFC diagram states boldly that it must be and ecu ground and a very specific way to install them.
I think we have the problem here with voltage from the MAF compared to Japan spec cars.
IIRC, you can use a voltage inverter (design???) so the MAF signal seen by the AVC-R is close to 0 volts at idle (instead of 5V as seen by the stock ECU).
I think this is also the case for the TB signal on non-DBW cars (5V signal at idle). But since all Golfs/Jettas are DBW, maybe the TB voltage isn't an issue?
[Modified by Electron Man, 10:15 AM 2-8-2002]
I think you would see a problem there too due to the SAFC is fooling the ECU to refine the af ratios for better tuning.
MAF------in--SAFC---out----ECU the MAF or MAP signal wires are actually cut not spliced, which I guess would mean it would have to go in at the correct voltage and out at the correct voltage too.
When I get round to it I will ask my VW tech if there happens to be a 0->5v line too there was on the TPS. But I doubt I will be this lucky.
Just out of curiosity, for those of us who dont actually use the MAF any more (BOV users) cant we use the MAP sensor instead or maybe add another that will see both Vacuum and boost?
Apexi actually sell a pressure sensor for s-avcr maybe this would cross work for the safc as a stand alone sensor instead of the MAF where we know there are voltage issues?
[grabbing mulitimeter now] if my car is running this weekend I wil do some testing on teh voltages. I have never heard the MAF voltages are swapppe,d and that makes little to know sense because the voltage clamps work on our cars.