"DIY" Removing/Replacing Spark Plugs on a 24v VR6

[GTIVRon]

Did mine last week. 90K and they still had the OEM ones in (pretty sure the PO didn't change them, bought the car with 60k on it.

Idle is much better. Pulls smoother.

Also dealer was out of stock, advanced auto/pep boys/oriely/carquest was order only. NAPA had 6 in stock. ~$14 a pop, before taxes.

[nuskool]

HAs anybody tried copper or iridium plugs? I changed mine probably about 60k ago, but honestly I don't remember if I used platinum or iridium.

sparkplugs.com has a good selection of different options with denso iridiums @ $9.99. The NGK platinum is $12.99

I'm thinking I should do this again even though the car is running perfect as it sits. still pulls hard and idles fine. MPG is the same as it's always been.

[GTIVRon]

Most people will recommend OEM. I can't remember what all the problems were with other plugs, but I'd just stick to OEM. I believe the NGK number is 7968 if you want to buy it at like NAPA.


Also question... the PO destroyed half the coilpacks when he probably pulled them out, and superglued one of the plugs back onto a coil. (cyl #2) I want to replace at least 2 coil packs because the plastic the surrounds the connector prongs are at least half way missing. Where can I buy a new plug, and which plug tool would I need to pull the wires out of the one i'm going to break off the old one to get it separated from the coil?

I was able to do change all the plugs, but being well into 90k miles I'd like to be able to replace that coil pack if it goes out on me while I'm driving.

[nuskool]

I replaced all my coil packs last year. Only $20.00 a piece now. IIRC the proper way to pull the connector is to push DOWN toward the plug, squeeze the tabs with your fingers and pull up. You may have to try this a few times b4 you get it. But as I recall this is the right way to do it.

[GTIVRon]

I replaced all my coil packs last year. Only $20.00 a piece now. IIRC the proper way to pull the connector is to push DOWN toward the plug, squeeze the tabs with your fingers and pull up. You may have to try this a few times b4 you get it. But as I recall this is the right way to do it.

Right, but one of mine was superglued in place by the PO. and 2 coil packs are just broken to hell where the connector plugs in. One is literally only secured by the actual prongs sticking out of the coil pack. the plastic surrounding the prongs is completely broken off, gone.

[nuskool]

Right, but one of mine was superglued in place by the PO. and 2 coil packs are just broken to hell where the connector plugs in. One is literally only secured by the actual prongs sticking out of the coil pack. the plastic surrounding the prongs is completely broken off, gone.

Acetone eats super glue.

[GTIVRon]

I'll have to try that...

[jdub_thc]

nice write up, I don't know when mine were changed last, I've only had the car for a few months, Any recommendations on a brand?

[nuskool]

nice write up, I don't know when mine were changed last, I've only had the car for a few months, Any recommendations on a brand?

NGK is OE and is well known for making very good plugs. It's what I've been using in most of my cars for over 20 years.
Denso is also very good

[zubzero2]

So what do you guys think about the e3 power spark plugs??

[apstguy]

I've used the E3 plugs, they are crap. I've had several of them break their electrode in half causing misfires. I was lucky they stayed together and didn't damage the cylinders. Avoid them!

[zubzero2]

Good to know

[Fundaze]

Just curious, I have read in other places that the gap should be 1.1mm and all of my plugs are gapped at 1.1mm and all look like they are performing properly. My question is why does this DIY say 0.70mm gap? I kept them all at 1.1mm.

[turbonium89]

i'm running E3's and they are sweet. havent had one issue yet in 26k miles. $6.99 each at O'rielly's. get the warranty. as you can replace them free for the next time after that.

[turbonium89]

one time i had an issue with the spark plug socket not releasing the spark after tightening so i over tightened it in about 4-5ft lbs and started getting a loud knocking after i drove it a block. figured it was the spark plug getting hit by the piston. is this true do you think?

[Eddie2170]

Just curious, I have read in other places that the gap should be 1.1mm and all of my plugs are gapped at 1.1mm and all look like they are performing properly. My question is why does this DIY say 0.70mm gap? I kept them all at 1.1mm.

saw this and looked into it in the bentely

Specification

• Spark Plugs (1.8L engine)
Original equipment number 101-000-063-AA
Manufacturers number NGK PFR 60
Gap max 0.80 mm (0.031 in)

• Spark Plugs (2.0L engine, code: AEG)
Original equipment number 101-000-033-AA
Manufacturers number NGK BKUR 6 ET-10
Gap 0.90 to 1.10 mm (0.035 to 0.043 in)

• Spark Plugs (2.0L engine, code: AVH, AZG, BBW,
BEV)
Original equipment number 101-000-062-AB
Manufacturers number NGK PZF R5D-11
Gap 0.90 to 1.10 mm (0.035 to 0.043 in)

• Spark Plugs (2.8L engine, code: AFP)
Original equipment number. . . . .. 101-000-035-AH
Manufacturers number NGK BKR 5 EKUP
Gap 0.70 mm (0.027 in)

• Spark Plugs (2.8L engine, code: BDF)
Original equipment number 101-000-062-AB
Manufacturers number NGK PZF R5D-11
Gap max 1.1 mm (0.045 in.)

looks like .70 is for 12v and 24v is 1.1 to me

[BDubS 145]

Is 0.027" the gap?

[madonion]

Is 0.027" the gap?

See the post above yours.


• Spark Plugs (2.8L engine, code: BDF)
Original equipment number 101-000-062-AB
Manufacturers number NGK PZF R5D-11
Gap max 1.1 mm (0.045 in.)

[miniyazz]

Sorry to wake this thread back up but wanted to add a thank you to the OP

Also if anyone is interested: the cylinders count from left to right as you look at the engine from the front of the car. Tested as I have a misfire and swapped a coil over

[RBKL]

excellent post. pictures made it a breeze to do.
called around my local part suppliers and got prices ranging $120 to $545 each
found online at http://www.vw-auto-parts-wholesale.c...4962955%2B1732.
for $40.
Thanks