Passat - All Other Models Forum FAQs V 2.0(NEW & IMPROVED)

[jebglx]

with many, many thanks to Armani , jbrams, pg1syncro ...a couple of the outstanding long members of the P-AOM forum

AND EVERYONE ELSE WHO CONTRIBUTED TO THE OLD FAQs

Armani

Was searching around the PAOM old threads and found alot of useful links. So I thought I would round up all the links and put up a new list. See if we need to add a website before I post it up on the FAQ.

Vortex FAQ and Help

01- Ripped off by a Vortex Member?

02- Forum FAQ & How To's

03- How to make a Link

04- How To Edit Your Post

05- How To Post Pictures

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General B3/B4 related info:

01- Passat Owners Group - Good info on some B3/B4 specific stuff, including VR6 (Java Required)

02- Jan's VW page - General VW info

03- B3/B4 Headliner Removal (Very helpful the first time)

04- Corrado Club of America FAQ's - Very B3/B4 Related

05- Aiming DE's and E-codes at Home or PDF document

06- Head gasket replacement parts list for VR6

07- General Lighting Info - Good Reading Material

08- GTI similar material - Loads of related info.

09- Waterwerks Page of Links

10- Lots of Factory Special Tools

11- 16V Resource for basic info and tips/

12- ETKA online Help

13- Metric to SAE Coversions

14- 16V distributor seals

15- 16V serpentine belt conversion

16- Link doesn't work at this time

17- Stupendous write-up by Jbrams on factory alarms

18- Bentley post for Moon/Sunroof

19- VR6 Power Upgrades

20- Door Striker Pin for B4 Does you door not close as smoothly as Before?

21- Tools Must Haves for B3/B4

22- Passat B4 Ecodes - Summary Thread

23- Secondary Air Injection Pump - Incorrect flow detected (Wait for page to load):

24- Relay & Fuse indentification for B3 Syncro's (Wait for page to Load)

25- Coolant Differences - Summary Thread (Wait for page to load)

26- G12 Coolant TSB (Technical Service Bulletin)

27- Spark plug wires designation for the Coilpack

28- Dip Stick Funnel / Sleeve for my VR6? Do I need one? (As seen on Ebay)

29- Sound clip of timing chain noise - Sound Clip Alternate - Original Thread

30- Trouble w/B4 Keyless Entry & Alarm System? Give the antenna 30-50ft extra range.

31- Recall - Passat 1996-1999 - Check for Damage to Axles

32- ECU Identification and Removal

33- Custom relay harnesses for headlights.

34- Halogen bulbs . . . ranked! Which is best ANSWERED!

35- Airbag Light and Heater Core. Writeup by Ghetto Gamer

36- Rebuild Job of the VR6 Engine. Writeup by A2B4guy

37- VR6 Over heating remedies SoCal GLI

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DIY's - Do It Yourself Perform any or all of these DIY's at your own risk.

01- DIY - Ignition switch replacement (from an A3, but similar enough):

02- DIY - Intermittent wiper relay install (For those who don't already have it)

03- DIY - VR6 Cam and Spring Install

04- DIY - Doorhandle fix and Alternate 1 and Alternate 2

05- DIY - How to blink out ECU fault codes on cars before OBD port

06- DIY - VR6 Coilpack epoxy repair and Alternate 1 and Alternate 2

07- DIY - Shorten your shifter

08- DIY - Fixing Broken Power Mirror Knob

09- DIY - Tinting Taillights using VHT Niteshades and Alternate 1

09a Photos of B4's with tinted tails http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1214395

10- DIY - Changing the LCD green color on your dash (Corrado but similar to B3/B4)

11- DIY - B4 E36 headlight conversion (picture intensive)

12- DIY – Changing your Accessory Belt (on a 2.8L VR6)

13- DIY - Changing your Oil in a VR6

14- DIY - Changing your coolant

15- DIY - Heater Core bypass instructions

16- DIY - Jumpers for fog light relay - Having the foglights on with the High Beams

17- DIY - Radio Code input instructions (Wait for page to load)

18- DIY - Fast Cheap Cool Switchblade mod and Alternate 1

19- DIY - Replacing timing chains, tensioners and guides on a 12v VR6

20- DIY - How do I clean a reflector lamp?

21- DIY - '95 VR6 Wagon front brake job

22- DIY - '95 Prewired Foglights Installation (For those of you who don't have foglights.)

23- DIY - '95 Passat Clutch Replacement

24- DIY - Rear Fog Lights for B4's Euro Rear fog light mod.

25- DIY - Changing HVAC color.

26 - DIY - Broken Door Lock Hoses.

Tested all the websites on this list. And updated some that were lost. Jbrams, Jpete, Armani, BC Dub, A2B4guy, passat_guy21 and 2deepn2dubs provided some from the list.

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Personal Experiences Threads deserving Attention.

01 - The Rise of the Phoenix by Ghetto Gamer

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Aftermarket / Performance Parts Listing

01- AMI Motorsports

02- Auto Dynamic

03- Autosport Volkswagen Parts

04- Autotech

05- Autothority

06- Carnoisseur

07- Euro Cullen or Euro Emblems

08- Direct Auto Import

09- Dub Technik

10- ECS Tuning

11- Electrodyne

12- Emotion Garage

13- European Automotive

14- Evolution Sports

15- Fast VW's

16- Fk North America

17- Flat Out Performance

18- Futrell Auto Werks

19- GSB Enterprises

20- Hillside imports

21- Husco Engineering (Armrests)

22- Importvision

23- JA Tuning

24- Kinetic Motorsport

25- K&N Filters

26- Matrix Engineering

27- Momentum Motorsport

28- Neuspeed

29- New Dimensions

30- OBD Tool

31- Parts4vws

32- Performance Cafe

33- PG Performance

34- Pro - Imports

35- Rapid Parts

36- RPI Equipped

37- SK Motorsport

38- Strictly Foreign Accessories

39- Techtonics Tuning

40- TM Tuning

41- Tuning Zuberhor

42- VF Engineering

43- VW Parts (World Impex)

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OEM Parts

01- Altrom

02- Autohausaz

03- Autosport Volkswagen Parts

04- Classic Garage

05- Discount VW Parts

06- Euro Cullen or Euro Emblems

07- European Automotive

08- Futrell Auto Werks

09- German Autoparts

10- Impex Foreign Auto Parts

11- L&T Enterprizes

12- Parts4vws

13- Specialized German Recycling

14- The Parts Connection

15- TM Tuning

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Salvage Yards / Used Parts

01- Find Used Parts

02- L&T Enterprizes

03- North Toronto Motors

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Modified by jebglx at 4:55 PM 2-13-2008

[jebglx]

pg1syncro

Here are more sites for new and used OEM, aftermaket and performance parts:

http://www.stopatcip.com
http://www.dubtechnik.com
http://www.husco.com
http://www.skmotorsport.com
http://www.altrom.com
http://www.classicgarage.com
http://www.germanautoparts.com
http://www.autohausaz.com
http://www.directautoimport.com
http://www.europeanautomotive.com
http://www.findusedparts.com
http://www.vwparts.com
http://www.landtenterprizes.com
http://www.mamotorworks.com
http://www.northtorontomotors.com
http://www.autosportvolkswagenparts.com
http://www.sgrgerman.com
http://www.thepartsconnection.com
http://www.pro-imports.com

http://www.autotech.com
http://www.autothority.com
http://www.jatuning.com

Here's a bunch of sites that could be useful to someone:

http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/roseland/P&S.htm
http://www.clearcorners.com/
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/
http://www.nwlink.com/~vdb/vw/....html
http://www.toprotege.com/resources/carmods/
http://www.houseofthud.com/variousposts.htm
http://www.pharfruminsain.com/forsale/posters.asp
http://wsd.dynip.com/pagti91/R...r.htm
http://www.alldata.com/recalls/index.html
http://www.speedtrap.org/
http://www.vanagon.com/syncros....html
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
http://www.tyresave.co.uk/fitment.html
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/rules/import/
http://www.autoinsurancetips.com/vin_number.htm
http://www.volkswagen.org/EngineSwap/Default.htm
http://www.autoint.com/O.E.M.%20T.S.B.'S.htm

Passat history and specs:

http://www.visi.com/~bhjelt/history.html
http://www.visi.com/~bhjelt/specs.htm

Various VW / Passat / car sites:

http://www.passat35i.de/
http://www.carstyling.net/
http://www.dubaholics.ca/
http://www.geocities.com/Motor....html (Les' home page "1.8TsyncroB3")
http://www.montrealracing.com/forums/ (french & english site)
http://www.geocities.com/passatpassions/
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/syncrog60/
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/syncronized/
http://www.neoplastic.de/vicc/4images/
************************/
http://www.vwshows.com/
http://www.vwdov.ca/forum/
http://www.vwfixx.com/home.htm
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/1108/links.html
http://www.vwquebec.ca/forum/ (mostly french site)
http://www.eastcoastdubs.com/

http://www.germanstuff4you.com

__________________________________________________ ____

[jebglx]

jbrams

1995 PASSAT GLX trans-axle drop
9006 converted to 9005 bulbs
CCA Corrado Garage
Coolant Change TSB
Curise control
dash power outlet
DIY Resource - Smoked Tails DIY
Hardwiring in a Radar detector
How do I reprogram the remote control Audi TT Car Club of America - (www.audittcca.com)
Installing the wiper relay..
Remote Keyless Entry GUIDE!!!
VISUAL HEADLIGHT AIMING PROCEDURE
Volkswagen Passat Door Fix
VWvortex Forums 5 minute fix for popping moonroofs...
VWvortex Forums DIY - Replacing the dust pollen filter (also know as the cabin filter)
VWvortex Forums Headliner Moonroof removal and fix. LOTS OF PICS!!
VWvortex Forums Info needed on OEM Keyless entry system for 1998 Jetta GLX
VWvortex Forums new passat owner....anyone have any tips
VWvortex Forums Reprogramming B4 remotes
VWvortex Forums Trouble w-B4 Keyless Entry & Alarm System
VWvortex Forums VR6 Technical Bulletin (as of 1997)
VWvortex Forums Your door handle will not break anymore

Amazon.co.uk Books VW Passat (88-96) Service & Repair Manual (Haynes Service and Repair Manuals)
busdepot.com - VW Bus - Camper - Vanagon - EuroVan Specialists
ECS Tuning Products for Volkswagen Passat B4 VR6 12v Maintenance
Impex Foreign Auto Parts On-Line
L and T Enterprizes sell used Volkswagen parts & used Audi parts, Allentown, PA
PaintScratch.com Secure Order Page
Parts4vws.com Virtual World Parts
Porsche Parts & VW Parts OEM and Aftermarket
Side Marker Right Front Passat Only 95-97
Side markers $22 smoked
Specialized German Recycling
sunglass holder
VW Volkswagen Parts Shipping Info - German Parts Warehaus

1997 passat parts list
CCA FAQ-Tech Tip Detail
Chip's Passat
Honda parts for cheap
http--www.chefjoe.net-vwvortex-vwohio-vwohio.htm
Lubro Moly Engine Additives fuel treatment, additive and valve cleaner products
Passat Turn Signals and Marker Lights
Tire size calculator
Used Cars, SUVs, Minivans, and Trucks - Consumer Guide® Reviews, Ratings and Prices
Volkswagen Passat pictures and photos
VW Mechanic
VW Repair Shops

[jebglx]

vr6todd

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2398961

DIY 02A LSD Install and main shaft replacement.

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by pg1syncro »

A few more details regarding the Passat VIN: Let's take: WVWKE0310NE000055 W - Country of origin V - Manufacturer W - Vehicle type K - Series E - Engine 0 - Restraint system 3 - Model (position 7 & 8) 1 - Model (position 7 & 8) 0 - Check digit: this is a calculated digit per NHTSA code to determine the validity of a complete Vehicle Identification Number N - Model year E - Assembly plant 000055 - sequential serial number

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by alkeli »

Engine RPM's "Hunting" or "surging" fix This is from my personal experience and I hope helps someone else with the same symptoms; ENGINE 2.0L 16V with airflow sensor plate SYMPTOMS -Engine RPM's constantly move up and down. -Sometimes causes stalling when stopping. PROBLEM -Airflow sensor plate is not centered and is rubbing on the sides of it's home, or rests in an improper position. FIX (THAT WORKED FOR ME) READ EVERYTHING BEFORE STARTING -1. Remove the boot sitting on top of the air filter. -2. On top of the air filter where the boot was, you'll see a disk in a cone-shaped hole with a single bolt in the center holding it in place. That's the airflow sensor plate. -3. Using a magnet (or something else that you can think of), raise and lower the plate slowly, if you see or hear the disk rubbing on the sides of the hole, this is possibly your problem and should be fixed regardless. If you don't hear or see anything and the plate travels smoothly then this isn't your problem so stop reading this -4. (SUGGESTED) Remove the top half of the airbox, be carefull of those fuel and air lines and note them so you can replace the air hoses when finished. -NOTE: !! BE VERY CAREFULL Under the top half of the airbox, there are some very sensitive and expen$ive parts there, so don't poke around too much and don't toss it around -4.5. Now get a beer and a smoke in ya because this part can be frustrating and take awhile... -5. Loosen the bolt on the sensor plate slightly and try to re-center it, this is why I suggest removing the top half of the airbox, so you can hold it by both sides to re-center it. Tighten bolt, NOT TOO HARD, you don't want to break the arm that hold it. -6. Try with the magnet or whatever contraption to move the plate again, if it still rubs, repeat step 5 and try to re-center it again until there's no rubbing. -7. Now that it's centered(assuming you get it eventually), sit the top of the airbox back on the bottom half, but don't clip it on yet. -CHECK: Make sure that when the plate is in it's resting position, that the back side of the disk(towards rear of vehicle) is a few milimeters lower than the narrowest part of the hole. I find this spacing doesn't make much of a difference as long as it's at least on the upper half between the bottom of the hole and the narrowest part. If it's too high, or it's way too low and you can almost see down into the airbox: -9. Flip the top of the airbox on it's side. Looking at the underside, you'll see the arm that holds the plate, in it's lowered resting position, it sits on a metal spring, and you'll see a screw there to adjust the spring's position. -10. Adjust accordingly until the plate sits properly. -11. Re-assemble in whatever order you want and you're done. If you don't have a magnet, you can always carefull reach underneath the top half of the box and push on the arm that holds the plate to raise it, but be careful. Hope this can help someone out.

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by Electron Man »

VR6 (02A) Shift Box Bushing Replacement. The Shift Box is located inside the car under the shift boot. Several bushings inside the shift box may need replacing if your car is more than 8yrs old or has more than 125K miles. My 95 Passat wouldn’t easily engage first gear because of a missing plastic cuplet that fits on a ball stud at bottom passengers side of metal shift cage. If the cuplet is worn or missing, it will be very difficult to engage first gear and you’ll hear a metallic clanking sound when moving the shift lever from side to side. No matter how hard you try, the situation can not be corrected by making adjustments to the cable ends on top of tranny. Parts replaced: 1. 357 711 590 B, Bushing, Clear hat-shaped located at front of shift cage 2. 357 711 590 C, Bushing, Gray hat-shaped located at rear of shift cage 3. 357 711 164, Cuplet, Clear spherical located on ball stud at bottom of shift cage 4. 357 711 234 A, Hex Bolt, stainless steel located below shift weight (top of tranny) All parts except the hex bolt are located inside the shift box. To replace both bushings and the cuplet, the long pivot pin (running front to rear) must be removed. Remove the 13mm retaining bolt first. Next, the circlip on drivers side of the shift cage gets removed. Removal of this circlip allows the white plastic “cross” (which shift shaft runs through) to be removed from the shift cage. Once the shift cage is out, both bushings were greased and replaced. The small cuplet needs to have the “eye” opened up some (use a flat blade screwdriver) before it would fit over the ball stud. While the shift cage was out, I removed the special cotter pin at the bottom of shift shaft that retains the front/rear shift cable. Use a jewelers screwdriver through one eye of the cotter pin (and your thumb on the other side) so you don’t lose the cotter pin when removing it. Since no replacement for the cable end bushing was available, I used about 3-4 inches of Teflon tape wrapped around the pin at the bottom of shift shaft to compensate for slop in the bushing…this may be a “getto” fix, but it beats replacing a shift cable. Place the front/rear cable end back onto the shift shaft pin, then carefully push the cotter pin back through the hole in the shift shaft pin. Next, replace the circlip after installing the plastic “cross” onto the shift cage. Now lower the shift cage so that the new bushings align with the holes in the shift box and the plastic covered ball stud aligns with the side/side relay lever. Slide the pivot pin in from the front of shift box (use a flat blade screwdriver to help the pivot pin over the flange in the body sheet metal….or use a Dremel tool to grind away the flange). Replace the 13mm bolt that retains the pivot pin. The hex bolt runs through the shift weight on top of transmission. The front/rear shift cable also attaches to this hex bolt. Replacement should be straightforward. The above parts (#1-3) were about $4 from the dealer; however, if you buy a short shifter these parts (minus the cuplet) are usually included. The hex bolt (#4) was about $13…not bad for a custom machined factory part. Bushing replacement should take about 2-3 hours.

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by dsimic »

Question: Should I, and if should, how to switch from G11 crap (blue/green) to G12 (pink) Quote, originally posted by 94blackglx » It is actually recommended by VW that you change from G11 to G12. VW put out a Technical Service Bulletin, TSB199601, specifically on this topic. I have it in .pdf format if you want it. Give me your email address and I will send it to you or email me at the address in my profile. It'll save you $24.99 that you'd spend buying it yourself. I got it from my local VW specialist. Ok, thanks 94blackglx for sending the TSB in .pdf format, from now on all Vortexers can download it from http://www.urc.bl.ac.yu/dsimic...1.pdf . It's currently on a quite slow site, but it works. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Today I made a switch from G11 to G12, and here is how it was done, described in a form of DIY: 1. Pour the cooling system cleaner into the expansion tank, and run the engine for about half an hour, reving it to about 2500-3000 rpm, to make coolant flow faster. The cleaner I used was made by Liqui-Molly (Made in Germany). 2. Flush the old coolant, by detaching the hoses at the radiator's bottom, and optionally the hose from engine's head and heater core; after flushing apply compressed air to the expansion tank to blow out any remaining old coolant 3. Wait for about 10 minutes to cool down the engine (remember, touching between very cold (distilled water) and very hot things (engine) can make many troubles) 4. Re-attach all hoses, and top out the cooling system with distilled water, and run the engine for about ten minutes, reving it to about 2500-3000 rpm from time to time, for about a minute, to make coolant flow faster 5. Repeat steps 2-4 about three to five times; after four iterations, the flushed coolant was almost colorless, like the bare water - so the G11 was blowed out completely 6. Flush the coolant as described, and top it out with 50/50 mixture of G12 and distilled water (the G12 I used is made by Fuchs (Made in Germany)) 7. Run the engine for about ten minutes, reving just at idle rpms, to allow the air that remained inside the system to flow out slowly 8. Add some coolant mixture if it's needed 9. Enjoy the red/pink color of your expansion tank 10. Chalk yourself a nice DIY... Notice to steps describing running the engine after topping out the cooling system: Before starting the engine, squeeze by your hand the coolant hoses, to force the air to flow out, then start the engine without the cap on your expansion tank. After a few minutes (when the level of coolant starts to raise up signifficantly, in the expansion tank), put and tighten the cap on expansion tank, and continue to rev the engine.

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by Devits »

timing belt replacement interval guide

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by KelOne333 »

heater core fixed for free how i got my heater core fixed by vw for free. hope this helps!

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by Devits »

VIN and Chassis Numbers Your VIN (vehicle identification number) contains useful information regarding your Volkswagen. In some instances you may need to know whether your car was produced in Germany, Mexico, Brazil, or the USA. You may also need to know the model year or the chassis number (serial number) as Volkswagen makes many changes in the middle of model years. Here is a sample VIN number: WVWDB4505LK005678 The first character represents the country of manufacture 1 = USA 3 = Mexico 9 = Brazil W = Germany The seventh and eight characters represent the model, generally this is not needed but it is required in some cases. The tenth character represents the model year A = 1980 B = 1981 C = 1982 D = 1983 E = 1984 F = 1985 G = 1986 H = 1987 J = 1988 K = 1989 L = 1990 M = 1991 N = 1992 P = 1993 R = 1994 S = 1995 T = 1996 V = 1997 W = 1998 X = 1999 Y = 2000 1 = 2001 2 = 2002 3 = 2003 4 = 2004 5 = 2005 The 12th thru 17th characters are the chassis number. This is the car's serial number, issued sequentially as each car is produced. So, our car with the sample VIN WVWDB4505LK005678 was the 5678th car built in 1990 in Germany

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by Ron L »

5 Speed Swap Parts List Here's a parts list. I'm hoping I haven't forgotten anything. I'll start with the interior and move forward. My bro was there for the whole gruesome thing and I asked him to look over this list when I sent it to someone else and it looked OK to him. shifter shifter inner console trim shifter console shifter boot & knob pedal cluster brake booster assembly (booster, MC, resevoir, bracket) * brake fluid resevoir to MC hose clutch master cylinder clutch hydraulic MC to slave cyl hose clutch slave cylinder shifter cable mounting bracket clutch presure plate flywheel bolt install kit ** transmission rear transmission mount side transmission mount starter starter bolts upper coolant hose * - much easier of you just take the whole unit, then there's no assembly involved with any of the current parts, just swap the whole thing. you'll still probably have a mystery problem with the brake light switch, i'll explain that later ** - includes flywheel bolts, pressure plate bolts, rear engine seal, and input shaft seal Don't forget, if you pull any parts off of the old donor car, keep all the bolts, nuts, screws, etc. just in case. I think that's it. That's about all I remember removing, taking, and installing. There are some tips and tricks when doing the work. There's brake bleeding, electrical jury-rigging to do, etc. Feel free to contact me if you need to.

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by jbrams »

Abe

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by Aw614 »

For Quantum info http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/syncronized/

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by Triple_Helix »

first order of business, BUY THIS BOOK!! can sometimes find them pretty cheap ($20-$60) on eBay. i think anywhere else it'll cost $100+ second, someone should define all the types. B1-B5.5 (even tho some dont exist in US) and OBD I and II. i still dont know what those mean and if your passat is leaking, check the 4 sunroof drain holes that are on the four corners of the sunroof. use a long cord or compressed air to unclog them. I think they drain out right behind the side marker lights. if your gas/temp gauges dont work at all or only work sometimes problem probably is the bad sodder points in the gauge cluster. take it out, clean and re-sodder the points for the gauges. that should do it. thats all i can contribute now, i guess i'll leave the rest (ie everything ) to you guys/gals

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by A2B4guy »

OK- Sunroof problems are a major complaint in Passats. Often one of the cables will break or pull loose from its anchor, or one of the sliding metal pieces will break. This generally costs mucho dinero to repair, and often is left unrepaired with the sunroof unusable. If your sunroof is still OK or is just making the popping noise, there is time to save your sunroof from disaster. The root cause of the problem is a simple little rubber o-ring that gets old and flattens out, causing two metal parts to interfere with each other. For details on a cheap way to prevent costly sunroof repair, visit this thread: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=731576

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by MEDEL514 »

Concerned with which kind of Oil to run in the Passat? Good reading material on Synthetic vs. Conventional Oil. I run Mobil1 Synthetic 15w-50 in the Phoenix summer and 10w-30 in the winter in my 16v.

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by passatvr6er »

e36 conversion care of vr6sportwagon aka frank http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=251202

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by Electron Man »

Factory Keyless Entry Retrofit to B4 VR6 (using KE module from 98 Jetta GLX) and programming of "banjo-style" remote...(Thanks to Rodney Huss) http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=763940 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Repair of B4 VR6 Rear Power Window wiring harness. If a faint squeal from the door is heard when you press the window buttons, a wiring harness repair is probably needed...(Thanks to Phillip Christi) http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=749182 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Repair of B4 A/C fan switch spring contact. If your HVAC fan (not the radiator fan) switch only works on high speed and isn't melted to he!! and back, this might be an alternative to a ~$200 repair bill at the stealership. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=981338

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by GoFaster »

For all TDI-related info: http://www.tdiclub.com/TDIFAQ

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by corific »

I am new to this forum and thought maybe a newbie perspective might be helpful, my top ten faq's have been (vr6 related): 1. What is that snow-cone looking screen thing in the airbox? Is is neccesary? -Take it out or clean regularily, even take out the flap and cone from back side for better airflow and sound. 2. Small amounts of oil dripping from middle of car -replace oil cooler seals, could be oil pan also 3. Fuel filter is under passenger wheel well, pull fuse 14?? and run car before changing, get ready for some gas to come out. 4. Oil in intake boot (before throttle body), or/and up and down idling. -related to crankcase ventilation , clean often or get a breather (do search in archive for oil breather) 5. Best oil = Mobil 1 (grade depending on location and season), Filter = Mann (drop in type, canister direct center in front of motor, black thing with large nut on bottom, small allen-key plug in center) 6. Plug wire puller tool needed to get plug wires out. Some may have one attached to hood support (I didn't) 7. Best plugs = NGK , no champion!!!! (for any car) 8. Coolant leaks -Check around reservoir bottle, hoses and bottle itself -Flush and fill with G11 or G12 from VW dealer (dexcool?) -Get that Green S*** out of there asap if you have it 9. Timing chains - tensionner bad = mucho damage, VR6 10. Heater core - fragile, can re-route hoses going into firewall for temporary fix. VW may reimburse for repair (check archive search). Hope this is of use to newer people on the forum.

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by jaytang »

I thought this will be important for VR6 owners http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=829387

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by VW Fox »

Dasher Owners Group.

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by SoulJer74 »

My old Heater Core fix that was on the VW Mafia Passat page.. ============= same happened to me VWofCan said that "your VIN is not on the list", the recall ended mid '90...... I did it my self got he original part for only $75 buck CDN, dealer wanted $175. It's not too difficult, just time consumming. Seriously don't be afraid! I only used 3 tools - phillips to remove all the trim, slot to remove the clips on the airbox (to remove it from the AC box) and curved pliers to remove the 6 bolts holding the dash on. I can give you a write up if you wish. -start by removing all the little trim pieces, vents etc.... -remove the parking brake cover (screws in the rear ashtray) -remove the gear cover and work your way to the center console (all phillps screws) -remove window, seat heater switches etc (label your wiring!) -remove radio (get your security code first if stock) -remove steering wheel, then main gauges (this may be the only hard part if you have the "cabled" gauges instead of the 'plug n play') -locate the pair of bolts on the left and right outside edges of the dash and centre console, remove - re-route all the wiring so it will not interfere with dash removal - I think here you may be able to wiggle out the top panel vent from the main damper assembly (two clips on rt/lt near mid-bottom hold it in place) - carefully start pulling the dash off from the 2 mounts on the firewall - stick it outta the way - clear your working area in the car - remove the clips that mate the 'center' box to the A/C side (if you have A/C) - located the nuts inside the engine bay that would corlate to where the center air box is, remove - there are clips at the back of the mating which I could not even get to so I just let them break of, no biggie - once the center box containing the heater core is out, it just slips out, new one goes in - reinstall is opposite of above - filler up, leave the cap loose to 'bleed' the system of air while driving, topper up - good as new I know this is VERY simplistic, it did take me 2 days (about 4-5 hours per day) I have no manuals, it was actually a good learning experince of what it car is made of. I never would want to do it again (I still have cooling/core issues - I can literally smell it still, even though I cleaned it out), but I could probably do it now in half the time.... Good luck!

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by Action Jackson »

I'd love to be the first to talk about.... The B3 sycnro Note I know little about the previous syncro's.. as in Quantums. Somebody else may have to pipe up to cover those. The B3 syncro Primarily sold as a 1992 model, although some have been had in 91 and 93. The Passat syncro was sold in Canada only, featured the 1.8l G60 supercharged engine also available in the Corrado. The Passat syncro had 11 inch Corrado brakes as well. It has been estimated (and assumed correct that) only 300 units were shipped to Canada, of which 200 were sedans, 100 were wagons. B3 Passat syncro's claim to fame is the syncro viscous coupling activated AWD system. It drives the front wheels, and detects wheel spin and transfers power to the rear wheels. Unlike Audi's quattro, syncro does not transfer power from side to side, but only front to back. a great link about syncro's: VW syncro Enthusuiasts and another great link to AWD information :Introduction to All Wheel Drive systems It is important to note that the B3 syncro differs greatly from the popular Audi quattro system, as the syncro mates the the B3 tranverse engine platform. Quattro uses a longitudinal platform. The syncro trany and rear diff is capable of handling 300+ hp and is in my opinion a reliable system. It was recently noted that non-syncro Passat wagons have the same rear floor pan as syncro wagons, so if swapping is in your budget, then the wagon is a good place to start. However it would be cheaper and simpler to just buy someone elses syncro. Sedan syncros have an entirely different rear floor pan, as it is raised to accomodate the mounting of the rear diff. The syncro rear suspension was also a complete independant setup. Rear suspension upgrades are not cheap, and no camber adjustment exists using stock parts. Note in Europe, the B4 also sold as a syncro, with various engine options from 8v to VR6. These were not sold in North America. oh, and if anyone has a syncro they wish to get rid of, pleae IM me!!

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by EatMud »

LIGHTING Headlights General:         - Removal of DRLs (Day-time Running Lights) - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=918116         - What's the difference between E-code/E-spec and OEM headlights? - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1004325         - Jumpers for fog light relay - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=965205         - B3/B4 Custom relay harnesses for headlights - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=832552 B1:         OEM - <Brand?> - [Part#?] - ~$Approximate Cost? B2:         OEM - <> - [] - ~$ B3:         DOT OEM - <Hella> - [] - ~$         E-spec OEM - <Hella> - [] - ~$         E-spec DE projectors Clear - <Hella> - [] - ~$         E-spec DE projectors Smoked - <Hella> - [] - ~$         Dual Round - <Votex> - [] - ~$         Dual Round (requires Zender grille) - <Zender> - [] - ~$         E36 conversion - I know someone out there did this, I just cant remember who it was         E46 conversion - I think someone did this.         Audi conversion - Matts b3 - does anyone have any links to any info on this B4:         DOT OEM - <Hella> - [] - ~$                Replacing burnt out bulbs - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=923601         E-code OEM - <Hella> - [] - ~$         E-code - <Depo> - [] - ~$         E36 conversion - <> - [] - ~$                Instuctions - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=251202                Pictures - http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/...o.com/                Pictures - http://www.vdubaddiction.com/members/gti16vman/                Pictures - http://www.geocities.com/passaultb4/Home.html         Audi conversion - I remember seeing pictures of a converted B4 Corner Lights General:         - B1:         OEM - <> - [] - ~$ B2:         OEM - <> - [] - ~$ B3:         DOT OEM amber - <Hella> - [] - ~$         E-spec amber - <Hella> - [] - ~$         E-spec amber - <Depot> - [] - ~$         E-spec Clear - <Hella> - [] - ~$         E-spec Clear - <Depot> - [] - ~$         E-spec Smoked - <Hella> - [] - ~$ B4:         DOT OEM - <Hella> - [] - ~$         E-code OEM - Dummy Clear Corners - <Hella> - [9HB 006 948-031, 9HB 006 948-031] - ~$35         E-code - Dummy Clear Corners - <Depo> - [] - ~$         DIY: Working Clear Corners Rear lights General:         - DIY Tinting - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...27685 B1:         OEM - <> - [] - ~$ B2:         OEM - <> - [] - ~$ B3:         DOT and E-spec the same OEM Amber- <Hella> - [] - ~$         Black/Red - <Hella> - [] - ~$         All black         all black         Tinted - I'M sure there are other brands out there, someone help me out B4:         DOT OEM - <Hella> - [] - ~$         Tinted - <Hella> - [] - ~$ SideMarkers/Badges General:         - Wiring Instuctions - http://www.kersur.net/~btillma....html         - More Wiring Instuctions - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=922627         - More Wiring Instuctions/Discussion - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=279985         - More Wiring Instuctions/Discussion - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=506206 B1:         OEM? - <> - [] - ~$ B2:         OEM? - <> - [] - ~$ B3:         DOT OEM - Badges - <> - [] - ~$         E-code OEM - SideMarkers - <> - [] - ~$         A3 Jetta/Golf/Gti/Cabrio sidemarkers are all compatible B4:         DOT OEM - Badges - <> - [] - ~$         E-code - SideMarkers - <> - [] - ~$ Turn signal/Fog lights General:         - B1:         OEM? - <> - [] - ~$ B2:         OEM? - <> - [] - ~$ B3:         OEM - <> - [] - ~$ B4:         DOT OEM - <Hella> - [] - ~$         Smoked Turn signals w/ fog lamps dummy - <in.pro.> - [3062] - ~$         Smoked Turn signals w/ fog lamps - <in.pro.> - [3065] - ~$ Interior General:         - Gauge face swap... and LED replacement - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...85082         - Gauge Cluster Lighting Mod - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=672009         - Custom Gauge Cluster with black light (instructions) - http://www.icbm.org/erkson/per...hting/         - How to Swap the LEDs in the Window switches - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=355553         - Does anyone know which car have there gauge clusters in common???         - Euro Headlight Switch - <> - [3A1941531E] - ~$ Timmons VW in Ca. $99 shipped I don't know if this is for the B3 or the B4?? are they interchangable?? B1:         - <> - [] - ~$ B2:         - <> - [] - ~$ B3:         MPH - White/Silver Dash Gauges - <> - [] - ~$         KPH - Syncro, 16V - White/Silver Dash Gauges - <> - [] - ~$25 - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=420086         KPH - VR6 - White/Silver Dash Gauges - <> - [] - ~$ B4:         MPH - White/Silver Dash Gauges - <> - [] - ~$         KPH - White/Silver Dash Gauges - <> - [] - ~$         KPH - VR6 - White/Silver Dash Gauges - <> - [] - ~$ Does anyone know if they Exist? Definitions E-code/E-spec: A part that is "E-Code" or "E-spec" meets European specifications DOT: (Department of Transportation) A part that is "DOT" meets North American specifications OEM: (Original Equipment Manufacture) The part that comes with your car PLEASE POST ANY ADDITIONS TO THE FOLLOWING THREAD http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1030043

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by Harold »

What is a Quantum syncro ? ( specs, #'s produced, Road & Track article, etc.) http://www.geocities.com/South....html http://bork.hampshire.edu/~jos....html http://www.duvekot.com/qsw.htm

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by amper »

Just some quick thoughts... Thing That Will Break, or Probably Break (based on my humble experience with two 1993 Passat GLX Sedans with Automatic Transmissions In the Family) 1. Your first set of tires (early recall) 2. Your cooling fans (early recall) 3. Your climate control system controls 4. Your sunroof 5. Your heater core 6. Your auxiliary water pump 7. Your automatic transmission 8. Your coilpack, if you have one... 9. Your front spoiler. Other thoughts... 1. For good 215/50-15 tires, try Dunlop SP Sport 5000's...stay away from the Goodyear Eagle GA's. I got 40-50,000 miles out of my last two sets of Dunlop's, and I'm not nice to them. They're great in the rain (unlike the Goodyears), and great in the dry, too. 2. If you have a VR6, especially a B3, use synthetic oil--they run *really* hot. Oil temps of 260 deg. F on hot days running hard are not uncommon. I use Mobil 1 0w-30 year round. 3. If you have an automatic transmission, use synthetic ATF, and change it often, say every 30,000 miles at most. A new auto transmission for a B3 VR6 runs $3-4,000 and are not easy to come by. Rebuilding is next to impossible for the CFA I have as VW documentation is very poor for this particular model. Later transmissions are better, I hear. Again, I use Mobil 1 ATF. 4. If you have a Passat earlier than a B5, accept that you will find little in the way of performance/customization parts, at least in the US. You'll feel much better...

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by scottnbarb »

I am trying to gather some info on the different interiors for our Passats. This would be a good post to add to the FAQ's for everybody if we can compile it here. 1) Front dash - only black In Europe there are more choices. I have a B4 with blue dash and blue door pillars / sill trims 2) Leather interiors - black - grey - tan - any other colors? 3) plastic trim - their color match the leather interior - black trim - black leather - grey trim - grey leather - tan trim - tan leather 4) carpet - it matchs the trim and leather 5) roof lining - it only come in tan 6) cloth interior - colors? - the cloth matchs the trim Now, how about mixing car interiors between a B3 & a B4 Here is what I think I know, please correct me if I am wrong! 1) Front seats are interchangable without any mods. - B3 sedan & wagon, B4 sedan & wagon 2) Rear seats are also interchangable, without any mods 3) Door cards are interchangable - B3 sedans & wagons - B4 sedans & wagons - B3 -> B4 You need everything; from handle to lock mechanism 4) Front dash - I remember someone saying this is not too difficult to do - B3 -> B4? 1) There was also neptune blue and platinum dashes. My red 91 was platinum, hard to tell it from black in some light. 2) There was also bedouin (brown) leather. 3) brown, tan, grey, blue, black It probably matches the leather. Interesting point: Have you ever noticed that a tan cloth interior has a black kneebar and a tan leather interior has a tan kneebar? Both cars have tan carpet and trim. I know this is true for GLX's, I don't know about the other colors. That's incorrect, my B3 had tan saharan cloth (I swapped to tan leather) and it has an original tan kneebar 4) carpet is in the same 5 colors so it probably does match the trim and leather. 5) Headliners were in light grey and tan. My two B3's had grey. Grey was used with black, blue, and grey trim. 6) Early B3's had the 5 basic colors above, but the pattern varied by year. All GLX's had the black/silver with multi-color dots, the only cloth interior on B3 GLX's. mixing- 1) correct 2) I don't think the "reclining" rear seat of 16V cars will fit in VR6 cars. Aren't the extra electronics under the GLX's rear seat in the way of the mechanism? 3) Hmm... I don't know. Speaker setups are different. Otherwise it might. 4) I don't think you'd swap the dash, they're the same. You could add the glovebox to the B4 without swapping dashes. Here's one I forgot. Center console B4 --> b3 - Everything from the ashtray back fits - get rear bracket at the back to bolt onto. - This gives you the arm rest, leather e-brake and rear cupholder. Changing a B3 Glovebox link: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=941227 Redoing the headliner in our cars: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=878766 http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=781643 Here's one for you US B3's! - The Canadian B3's have the manual seatbelt - The US B3's have the automatic seatbelt - real pain in the but - The Canadian B3 seatbelt with the pillar trim will swap directly over to the US B3's! In Europe there are more choices. I have a B4 with blue dash and blue door pillars / sill trims B4 belts and trim fit B3's. rhussjr put B4 belts and pillar trim in the "silver bullett" wagon. Someone has tested the fit of fold down wagon seats swapped out for sedan seats. So we know those work... My Passat sedan I had before the wagon was a '91 GL but had ABS, just like a GLX. I don't think the reclining rear seat is an issue with any cars. Just maybe not desireable in wagons because the seat bottoms do not flip up, allowing the seat backs to fold flat. Original Post http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=942237

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by PaulSE »

ABS simple troubleshooting ------------------------------- First thing to check are the ABS wheel sensors. Trace wires from each wheel to the ABS controller. Find a connector where you can disconnect the wire and measure resistance in the ABS sensor. Connector locations in B4: rear sensors under back seat, front sensors behind suspension upper mountings in engine compartment. -Measure ohms on each sensor: about 1000 ohms is OK. If shorted or broken, or in an intermediate state, the ABS lamp will go on. -If a bad sensor is found, verify ABS controller function: insert a 1000 ohm resistor in the connector on the controller side of the wire. This should turn off the ABS lamp when you have turned on ignition. If I remember right, the ABS lamp should come on again when you drive faster than about 12-15 mph because there are no wheel pulses from the dummy sensor.

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by Zardoz! »

To all those with fuel/temp gauge woes looking for the bad solder joint. Let me save you a little time. There is a plugin voltage regulator behind the tach on the printed circuit board. This gets hot, that is the reason that is has a screw holding it to a piece of metal (heat sink) OK see it ? Look at where the three prongs from the regulator plug into the blue connector on the back of the board.--- The Bentley book calls it a "voltage stabilizer" Found the blue connector? Now on the front of the board where the connector solders to the board you will see two rows of three solder connections. Get your magnifying glass out and see if there are any cracks around the solder joints. You may have to wiggle the connector to see them. (easy here, don't over do it, if they weren't broke they will be!) One other place to look, where the gauges plug into the board there are 4 pins from the gauge (3 for the tach) that go through the board and slide into connectors (clips) on the rear of the board. These will get loose after a while and not make good contact with the pins. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze them in a little (with the pins out of the connector). Again easy does it,,,,DON'T Screw up what's NOT BROKE ! Hope this helps and saves you some time. If this doesn't help,,,,Oh well I tried. Bob

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by pg1syncro »

Passat Color Codes 1989-1997 (Germany): pg1syncro

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by Rippen Raymen »

i think this thread needs to be cleaned up..... i've found myself linking my armrest thread a lot so i thought i'd add it to here: for a great armrest and cupholders for a b3 i suggest this: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1150574 they make them for b4 too but no cupsholder. you'd have to switch to a b3 rear center console if you wanted the sliding motion and cup holders. imho, well worth the $90

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by austin neuschafer »

how to get rid of ur pesky motorized seatbelts in your B3, this was done to my car and u can tell it had that garbage to begin with http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=614310fixed link 1-29-03 corrado shocks + springs retrofit and how to http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1219062

[jebglx]

Quote, originally posted by Rippen Raymen »

B3 passat radiator and A/C condeser removal and install. it's for 93 passat glx vr6 http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1275524