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    Thread: Passat - All Other Models Forum FAQs V 2.0(NEW & IMPROVED)

    1. Social Media Iron Man(and Administrator) jebglx's Avatar
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      01-19-2006 11:51 PM #26
      Quote, originally posted by EatMud »
      LIGHTING
      Headlights
      General:
      - Removal of DRLs (Day-time Running Lights) - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?918116
      - What's the difference between E-code/E-spec and OEM headlights? - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1004325
      - Jumpers for fog light relay - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?965205
      - B3/B4 Custom relay harnesses for headlights - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?832552
      B1:
      OEM -
      - [Part#?] - ~$Approximate Cost?
      B2:
      OEM - - [] - ~$
      B3:
      DOT OEM - - [] - ~$
      E-spec OEM - - [] - ~$
      E-spec DE projectors Clear - - [] - ~$
      E-spec DE projectors Smoked - - [] - ~$
      Dual Round - - [] - ~$
      Dual Round (requires Zender grille) - - [] - ~$
      E36 conversion - I know someone out there did this, I just cant remember who it was
      E46 conversion - I think someone did this.
      Audi conversion - Matts b3 - does anyone have any links to any info on this
      B4:
      DOT OEM - - [] - ~$
      Replacing burnt out bulbs - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?923601
      E-code OEM - - [] - ~$
      E-code - - [] - ~$
      E36 conversion - - [] - ~$
      Instuctions - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?251202
      Pictures - http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/...o.com/
      Pictures - http://www.vdubaddiction.com/members/gti16vman/
      Pictures - http://www.geocities.com/passaultb4/Home.html
      Audi conversion - I remember seeing pictures of a converted B4
      Corner Lights
      General:
      -
      B1:
      OEM - - [] - ~$
      B2:
      OEM - - [] - ~$
      B3:
      DOT OEM amber - - [] - ~$
      E-spec amber - - [] - ~$
      E-spec amber - - [] - ~$
      E-spec Clear - - [] - ~$
      E-spec Clear - - [] - ~$
      E-spec Smoked - - [] - ~$
      B4:
      DOT OEM - - [] - ~$
      E-code OEM - Dummy Clear Corners - - [9HB 006 948-031, 9HB 006 948-031] - ~$35
      E-code - Dummy Clear Corners - - [] - ~$
      DIY: Working Clear Corners
      Rear lights
      General:
      - DIY Tinting - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...27685
      B1:
      OEM - - [] - ~$
      B2:
      OEM - - [] - ~$
      B3:
      DOT and E-spec the same OEM Amber- - [] - ~$
      Black/Red - - [] - ~$
      All black
      all black
      Tinted - I'M sure there are other brands out there, someone help me out
      B4:
      DOT OEM - - [] - ~$
      Tinted - - [] - ~$
      SideMarkers/Badges
      General:
      - Wiring Instuctions - http://www.kersur.net/~btillma....html
      - More Wiring Instuctions - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?922627
      - More Wiring Instuctions/Discussion - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?279985
      - More Wiring Instuctions/Discussion - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?506206
      B1:
      OEM? - - [] - ~$
      B2:
      OEM? - - [] - ~$
      B3:
      DOT OEM - Badges - - [] - ~$
      E-code OEM - SideMarkers - - [] - ~$
      A3 Jetta/Golf/Gti/Cabrio sidemarkers are all compatible
      B4:
      DOT OEM - Badges - - [] - ~$
      E-code - SideMarkers - - [] - ~$
      Turn signal/Fog lights
      General:
      -
      B1:
      OEM? - - [] - ~$
      B2:
      OEM? - - [] - ~$
      B3:
      OEM - - [] - ~$
      B4:
      DOT OEM - - [] - ~$
      Smoked Turn signals w/ fog lamps dummy - - [3062] - ~$
      Smoked Turn signals w/ fog lamps - - [3065] - ~$
      Interior
      General:
      - Gauge face swap... and LED replacement - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...85082
      - Gauge Cluster Lighting Mod - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?672009
      - Custom Gauge Cluster with black light (instructions) - http://www.icbm.org/erkson/per...hting/
      - How to Swap the LEDs in the Window switches - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?355553
      - Does anyone know which car have there gauge clusters in common???
      - Euro Headlight Switch - - [3A1941531E] - ~$ Timmons VW in Ca. $99 shipped I don't know if this is for the B3 or the B4?? are they interchangable??
      B1:
      - - [] - ~$
      B2:
      - - [] - ~$
      B3:
      MPH - White/Silver Dash Gauges - - [] - ~$
      KPH - Syncro, 16V - White/Silver Dash Gauges - - [] - ~$25 - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?420086
      KPH - VR6 - White/Silver Dash Gauges - - [] - ~$
      B4:
      MPH - White/Silver Dash Gauges - - [] - ~$
      KPH - White/Silver Dash Gauges - - [] - ~$
      KPH - VR6 - White/Silver Dash Gauges - - [] - ~$ Does anyone know if they Exist?
      Definitions
      E-code/E-spec: A part that is "E-Code" or "E-spec" meets European specifications
      DOT: (Department of Transportation) A part that is "DOT" meets North American specifications
      OEM: (Original Equipment Manufacture) The part that comes with your car
      PLEASE POST ANY ADDITIONS TO THE FOLLOWING THREAD http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1030043

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      01-19-2006 11:52 PM #27
      Quote, originally posted by Harold »
      What is a Quantum syncro ? ( specs, #'s produced, Road & Track article, etc.)
      http://www.geocities.com/South....html
      http://bork.hampshire.edu/~jos....html
      http://www.duvekot.com/qsw.htm

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      01-19-2006 11:52 PM #28
      Quote, originally posted by amper »
      Just some quick thoughts...
      Thing That Will Break, or Probably Break (based on my humble experience with two 1993 Passat GLX Sedans with Automatic Transmissions In the Family)
      1. Your first set of tires (early recall)
      2. Your cooling fans (early recall)
      3. Your climate control system controls
      4. Your sunroof
      5. Your heater core
      6. Your auxiliary water pump
      7. Your automatic transmission
      8. Your coilpack, if you have one...
      9. Your front spoiler.
      Other thoughts...
      1. For good 215/50-15 tires, try Dunlop SP Sport 5000's...stay away from the Goodyear Eagle GA's. I got 40-50,000 miles out of my last two sets of Dunlop's, and I'm not nice to them. They're great in the rain (unlike the Goodyears), and great in the dry, too.
      2. If you have a VR6, especially a B3, use synthetic oil--they run *really* hot. Oil temps of 260 deg. F on hot days running hard are not uncommon. I use Mobil 1 0w-30 year round.
      3. If you have an automatic transmission, use synthetic ATF, and change it often, say every 30,000 miles at most. A new auto transmission for a B3 VR6 runs $3-4,000 and are not easy to come by. Rebuilding is next to impossible for the CFA I have as VW documentation is very poor for this particular model. Later transmissions are better, I hear. Again, I use Mobil 1 ATF.
      4. If you have a Passat earlier than a B5, accept that you will find little in the way of performance/customization parts, at least in the US. You'll feel much better...

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      01-19-2006 11:54 PM #29
      Quote, originally posted by scottnbarb »
      I am trying to gather some info on the different interiors for our Passats. This would be a good post to add to the FAQ's for everybody if we can compile it here.
      1) Front dash - only black In Europe there are more choices. I have a B4 with blue dash and blue door pillars / sill trims
      2) Leather interiors
      - black
      - grey
      - tan
      - any other colors?
      3) plastic trim - their color match the leather interior
      - black trim - black leather
      - grey trim - grey leather
      - tan trim - tan leather
      4) carpet - it matchs the trim and leather
      5) roof lining - it only come in tan
      6) cloth interior - colors?
      - the cloth matchs the trim
      Now, how about mixing car interiors between a B3 & a B4
      Here is what I think I know, please correct me if I am wrong!
      1) Front seats are interchangable without any mods.
      - B3 sedan & wagon, B4 sedan & wagon
      2) Rear seats are also interchangable, without any mods
      3) Door cards are interchangable
      - B3 sedans & wagons
      - B4 sedans & wagons
      - B3 -> B4 You need everything; from handle to lock mechanism
      4) Front dash - I remember someone saying this is not too difficult to do
      - B3 -> B4?
      1) There was also neptune blue and platinum dashes. My red 91 was platinum, hard to tell it from black in some light.
      2) There was also bedouin (brown) leather.
      3) brown, tan, grey, blue, black It probably matches the leather. Interesting point: Have you ever noticed that a tan cloth interior has a black kneebar and a tan leather interior has a tan kneebar? Both cars have tan carpet and trim. I know this is true for GLX's, I don't know about the other colors.
      That's incorrect, my B3 had tan saharan cloth (I swapped to tan leather) and it has an original tan kneebar
      4) carpet is in the same 5 colors so it probably does match the trim and leather.
      5) Headliners were in light grey and tan. My two B3's had grey. Grey was used with black, blue, and grey trim.
      6) Early B3's had the 5 basic colors above, but the pattern varied by year. All GLX's had the black/silver with multi-color dots, the only cloth interior on B3 GLX's.
      mixing-
      1) correct
      2) I don't think the "reclining" rear seat of 16V cars will fit in VR6 cars. Aren't the extra electronics under the GLX's rear seat in the way of the mechanism?
      3) Hmm... I don't know. Speaker setups are different. Otherwise it might.
      4) I don't think you'd swap the dash, they're the same. You could add the glovebox to the B4 without swapping dashes.
      Here's one I forgot.
      Center console B4 --> b3
      - Everything from the ashtray back fits - get rear bracket at the back to bolt onto.
      - This gives you the arm rest, leather e-brake and rear cupholder.
      Changing a B3 Glovebox link:
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?941227
      Redoing the headliner in our cars:
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?878766
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?781643
      Here's one for you US B3's!
      - The Canadian B3's have the manual seatbelt
      - The US B3's have the automatic seatbelt - real pain in the but
      - The Canadian B3 seatbelt with the pillar trim will swap directly over to the US B3's!
      In Europe there are more choices.
      I have a B4 with blue dash and blue door pillars / sill trims
      B4 belts and trim fit B3's. rhussjr put B4 belts and pillar trim in the "silver bullett" wagon.
      Someone has tested the fit of fold down wagon seats swapped out for sedan seats. So we know those work...
      My Passat sedan I had before the wagon was a '91 GL but had ABS, just like a GLX. I don't think the reclining rear seat is an issue with any cars. Just maybe not desireable in wagons because the seat bottoms do not flip up, allowing the seat backs to fold flat.
      Original Post http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?942237



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      01-19-2006 11:55 PM #30
      Quote, originally posted by PaulSE »
      ABS simple troubleshooting
      -------------------------------
      First thing to check are the ABS wheel sensors. Trace wires from each wheel to the ABS controller. Find a connector where you can disconnect the wire and measure resistance in the ABS sensor. Connector locations in B4: rear sensors under back seat, front sensors behind suspension upper mountings in engine compartment.

      -Measure ohms on each sensor: about 1000 ohms is OK. If shorted or broken, or in an intermediate state, the ABS lamp will go on.

      -If a bad sensor is found, verify ABS controller function: insert a 1000 ohm resistor in the connector on the controller side of the wire. This should turn off the ABS lamp when you have turned on ignition. If I remember right, the ABS lamp should come on again when you drive faster than about 12-15 mph because there are no wheel pulses from the dummy sensor.

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      01-19-2006 11:55 PM #31
      Quote, originally posted by Zardoz! »
      To all those with fuel/temp gauge woes looking for the bad solder joint.
      Let me save you a little time.
      There is a plugin voltage regulator behind the tach on the printed circuit board.
      This gets hot, that is the reason that is has a screw holding it to a piece of metal (heat sink)
      OK see it ?
      Look at where the three prongs from the regulator plug into the blue connector on the back of the board.--- The Bentley book calls it a "voltage stabilizer"
      Found the blue connector?
      Now on the front of the board where the connector solders to the board you will see two rows of three solder connections.
      Get your magnifying glass out and see if there are any cracks around the solder joints.
      You may have to wiggle the connector to see them. (easy here, don't over do it, if they weren't broke they will be!)
      One other place to look, where the gauges plug into the board there are 4 pins from the gauge (3 for the tach) that go through the board and slide into connectors (clips) on the rear of the board.
      These will get loose after a while and not make good contact with the pins.
      Use a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze them in a little (with the pins out of the connector).
      Again easy does it,,,,DON'T Screw up what's NOT BROKE !
      Hope this helps and saves you some time.
      If this doesn't help,,,,Oh well I tried.
      Bob

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      01-19-2006 11:56 PM #32
      Quote, originally posted by pg1syncro »
      Passat Color Codes 1989-1997 (Germany):









      pg1syncro

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      01-19-2006 11:57 PM #33
      Quote, originally posted by Rippen Raymen »
      i think this thread needs to be cleaned up.....
      i've found myself linking my armrest thread a lot so i thought i'd add it to here:
      for a great armrest and cupholders for a b3 i suggest this: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1150574
      [IMG]http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RgDcAr4Sd2blZftLFQv1RRCDdBfxyP6mY62t3Lg*S79sqi6Gy 0B01ymrMM7vRFtbugvmwylXoUm0KycRyalPkOXkJSvhl!CrpTv jyn9RzGw/P1010774.JPG?dc=4675451152705738108[/IMG]
      they make them for b4 too but no cupsholder. you'd have to switch to a b3 rear center console if you wanted the sliding motion and cup holders.
      imho, well worth the $90 [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

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      01-19-2006 11:58 PM #34
      Quote, originally posted by austin neuschafer »
      how to get rid of ur pesky motorized seatbelts in your B3, this was done to my car and u can tell it had that garbage to begin with http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?614310fixed link 1-29-03
      corrado shocks + springs retrofit and how to http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1219062

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      01-19-2006 11:58 PM #35
      Quote, originally posted by Rippen Raymen »
      B3 passat radiator and A/C condeser removal and install. it's for 93 passat glx vr6

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1275524
      [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

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      01-19-2006 11:59 PM #36
      Quote, originally posted by Armani »
      Well after searching and searching for a used power mirror knob, I decided to try and fix the knob myself. The problem I was having was that the PWR knob was hanging in place. Making it difficult to adjust the PWR mirrors with one hand. Like so:

      Here's what I did to fix this. First I started to remove the panel that holds the knob.

      Stick a small flat head screwdriver into the slit. Being awfully careful not to scratch the leather or the cloth interior. I used a precision head screwdriver for this job.

      Then using your hand or use the screwdriver to continue to take out the remaining clips of the door panel.

      Here's what it should look like:

      You should proceed to unplug the knob from the connector. After taking mine out that's when I noticed that the OE clips were missing from the slits on the knob. As I point out here.

      I used some old small metal conductors from a small flashlight. They are bendable and strong. (not too flimsy) You could use some left over metal scraps from a metal shop. But be sure it is not too strong; where it can't bend or is uncuttable.

      I cut them down to size so that they would fit in the slit and would still be high enough to make contact with the panel.

      And after this step just go back in reverse thru the steps to put the panel back on. Be careful not to pinch the power windows/ mirrors cable in the process. The knob should snap into place making it fit snuggly.

      Great job well done! Hope you can find this useful! Posted in the FAQ just in case someone needed it...

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      01-20-2006 12:00 AM #37
      Quote, originally posted by PaulSE »
      No charging at idle speed
      --------------------------
      Symptoms: dimmed headlights, starting problems, even dying engine during drive
      Possible cause: battery dosen't get charged regularly due to bad charge indicator in the instrument cluster
      Trobuleshooting actions:
      1. Measure voltage after start, and note when it rises to about 14 V:
      - at idle speed? everything is OK, drive and you will recharge the battery
      - when the engine reaches about 2000 rpm? something is wrong,
      but charging is probably OK when you drive at normal speed
      2. Stop the engine and turn on ignition without starting:
      - Does the charge indicator light? Aha-it doesn't but you didn't notice because the handbrake indicator next to it was on.
      The Alternator needs a small current to magnetize the rotor to get the charging working immediately after start.
      It draws this current via the charge indicator in the instrument cluster. If the indicator (a simple lamp or some circuitry) fails,
      the charging won't start until the alternator produces enough magnetization current by itself, which happens at about 2000 rpm.

      Quick fix until you decide to repair the cluster:
      connect a 70-150 ohms resistor (5 W) between a switched 12 V supply (not directly from the battery,as it will slowly discharge) and the D+ input on the alternator (remove and insulate the original connector)

      You can connect the resistor to any supply which is coupled via the ignition switch, e.g. city lights or marker lights.

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      01-24-2006 10:19 PM #38
      Action Jackson:
      Cool Blue: switching to blue dash lights and red switches/buttons
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?543257
      Quote, originally posted by Action Jackson »
      Well this mod has taken me about 6 months! But much of that was not doing anything.. I finnally just said to heck with it and jumped in. If you wanted a mechanic to do it, just make sure their soldering skills are decent, or else it will take more time and $$$. Heck do i your self! It isn't that hard, just needs a steady hand.
      The window switches are easy. Simple swapping of the LED, from green to red. The red ones I used are WAY brighter! I think the factory ones are 20 micro candles (mcd) and the red ones I used are 100 ! Damm, you'll never miss the window switch again! Oh!, they're also 1.5V 20mA LED's. Now to get the rear defogger and fog light switches it got tricky. I had to remove a 12V bulb and replace it with the LED's I bought. Since the LED's were 1.5V, I used a resistor to step down the power. I'll have to check, but I think it was 1500 ohms, maybe 1100.
      Now the blue lighting was also more complex, where I also needed to use resistors. The blue LED's were I think 4V, 20mA and the resistor was a 1k ohm, but you could go as low as 800 ohms. I used the dash bulb holders (removed the bulb) and simply soldered the resistor and LED into it. Makes for a nice install. I do have picutres of these, but I have to get them developed. Anyway, the Blue LED's were supper bright, some 3500 mcd I was told at the electronics store. The luminisity is also very focused, so I had to point them down at a 90 degree from the bulb holder. this way they shine directly onto the gauges.
      The last part was the clock light. Same blue LED and resistor as before, but this time I just soldered it right onto the dash circuit board. ONe thing, the LED I used is not exactly right for this app as it is so bright and focused, you see a blue dot in hte clock, and it doen't all luminate as well as I wanted. Oh well. All for about $30 in parts! (Blue Diodes/LED's are $4.00 a peice, the rest was like $5 or $6 and then the 8% for Mike and 7% for Jean ...)
      I'm gonna try to get the rest of my camera used up tomorrow so I can take the pics in Tues.

      Quote, originally posted by Action Jackson »
      OK so I finally have pics to show after 3 years. Maybe I'm a but of a procrastinator... what can I say.
      Its still blue, and red, and I'm loving it

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      01-24-2006 11:01 PM #39
      Hidden MFA Functions
      Quote, originally posted by alkeli »
      Not sure if anyone else knows about these, but for those who don't, the MFA has some hidden functions.
      Here's how you do it:
      1.Switch your MFA switch to position 1
      2.Switch your car to "ON" (Don't start it!)
      3.Press and hold the mode button
      4.Turn the key to "Off", then back on.
      5.Release the mode button.
      Now when you cycle through the modes, you get this info:
      -Engine MAP code
      -Country code (1=Canada, 4=US)
      -speedometer drive ratio
      -upper RPM limit
      -lower RPM limit
      -deceleration fuel shutoff pressure (mbars)
      -LCD Test
      And, if you do this:
      1.Switch your MFA switch to position 2
      2.Switch your car to "ON" (Don't start it!)
      3.Press and hold the mode button
      4.Turn the key to "Off", then back on.
      5.Release the mode button.
      6.Start the car and drive
      You now get these values:
      -Test checksum of programmed bytes in memory
      -intake manifold vacuum (mbar)
      -engine rpm's
      -fuel consumption
      -signal from speed sensor
      -oil temperture
      -Outside temperature

      So I'm not sure if anyone knew about these things but I thought they were interesting and thought I'd share with those who didn't know
      Try it, maybe some people will get different readings or something, I'd like to know if the newer cars get more function readouts.
      Apparently B3's that are 93-94 might have to do this using the odometer reset button instead of the MFA mode button.

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      01-31-2006 10:47 AM #40
      Quote, originally posted by izzo »
      Explanation of VINs
      http://passat.is.dreaming.org/manuals
      I got that embedded so just type the VIn and it will spit the info......

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      VWvortex Fourtitude SpeedArena Swedespeed
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      2007 VW GTI 5DR
      03-09-2006 09:32 AM #41
      http://www.newdimensions.com (have all types of parts like kamei, hagus, neuspeed)
      http://www.neuspeed.com (obviously they have neuspeed stuff like plugs, swaybars, etc….)
      http://www.autolamps-online.com (HID upgrades)
      http://www.abdracing.com/ (products made by ABD, bonrath, wings west, zender, etc…)
      http://www.der-abt.de (a german site that offers the sweetest styling things)
      http://www.amimotorsports.com/ (very good site with reiger, caractere, dietrech, mattig, etc…)
      http://www.autostyle.co.za/index800.htm (the cheapest prices known to man, but they are in South Africa and don’t ship to US, good place to check out fellow Dubbers worldwide)
      http://www.autotech.com/ (products like zender, quaife and euro products)
      http://www.awe-tuning.com/ (have GIAC, H&R, brembo, etc….)
      http://www.awesome-gti.co.uk/ (stuff like bonrath, abt, caractere, and more, located in UK)
      http://www.bildon.com/ (all sorts of racing equipment, also have quaifes)
      http://www.cfimotorsports.com/ (Bonrath, brembo, eibach, caractere, brospeed and more)
      http://www.colour-tuning.de/ (have all sorts of products, are in Germany though)
      http://www.audituning.com/english/main.asp (a European site and carry products like JE Design)
      http://www.drschrick.de/ (German site, home for Schrick manifolds)
      http://www.dubtechnik.com/ (have nice products for suspension, wheels, and body styling)
      http://www.eiptuning.com/ (have turbo systems, transmissions, intakes and more)
      http://www.electrodyne.cc/ (have many products for everything)
      http://www.europartsinc.com/ (six speed transmissions, 1.8t engine parts)
      http://www.eurosportacc.com/ (have a lot of products but a bit pricey)
      http://www.eurospeed.ca/ (many products like blow-off valves, more stuff)
      http://www.eurosporttuning.com/ (basically only brakes, mostly for Volvos)
      http://www.evolutionsports.com/ (have everything, headlights, aerodynamics and at good prices)
      http://www.fknorthamerica.com/ (also have a lot of products for good prices)
      http://www.pgperformance.com/ (have good products and prices, headlights, body styling)
      http://www.freedomdesign.com/ (Kamei, also have their own line of products)
      http://www.futrellautowerks.com/ (they have many products and good prices for everything)
      http://www.hofeleusa.com/ (site for Hofele products, obviously, gives good pics)
      http://www.c1vw.com/ (very good Canadian site, have many products)
      http://www.hpamotorsport.com/ (have turbo kits for VW and brakes)
      http://www.achtuning.com/ (carry ABT, AMS, and many other parts)
      http://www.tracracing.com/ (has many different VW parts, Eibach)
      http://www.imperialmotorsport.com/ (have group buys and a few other things)
      http://www.importvision.com (not the best looking site but have really good prices)
      http://www.in-pro.de/ (German site for In.Pro headlights and products)
      http://www.schimmelperformance.com/ (they do custom work with intake tubes and other things)
      http://www.jms-fahrzeugteile.de (they have Golf IV parts, not sure if they have anything others)
      http://www.kraftswerk.com/ (have custom transmissions)
      http://www.landspeedusa.com/ (have various aftermarket parts)
      http://www.machvw.com/ (have all types of parts, too much to go through)
      http://www.matrixengineering.cc (have engine, brakes, suspension, transmission, etc…)
      http://www.midknightmotorsport.com (have many products, have to call for the pricing and products)
      http://moldynamics.com/ (have all Golf and Jetta MK3 and other parts)
      http://www.newdimensions.com/ (have many different products, take a look for yourself)
      http://www.ngpracing.com/ (have bonrath, hagus, kamei and other products)
      http://www.o-bars.com/ (have all sorts of suspension swaybars and stress bars)
      http://www.oettinger.com/ (VW styling products)
      http://www.overboost.com (have way too many things to list and no place to start)
      http://tuningzubehor.com (have many aftermarket parts for VW and other makes)
      http://www.performance-cafe.com/ (have many products and specials all the time)
      http://www.ptuning.com (have products for VW and other makes)
      http://www.projektzwo.de/ (VW styling products and more, German site)
      http://www.rapidparts.com/ (everyone knows them)
      http://www.rieger-tuning.de/ (VW styling products and more, German site)
      http://www.rmrautosport.com/ (have all types of parts for VW and other makes)
      http://www.hellausa.com/ (VW lighting products and other things)
      http://www.rpi-equipped.com/ (have tons of products and good pricing)
      http://www.srsvw.com/ (have GIAC chips and suspension)
      http://www.caractere-automobile.be (Caractere styling products for VW)
      http://www.skperf.com/ (have some pretty nice aftermarket products)
      http://www.estrictlyforeign.com/ (many people don’t like them but they have good products, styling)
      http://swgmotorsport.com/ (UK site and have some pretty sweet products)
      http://www.tmtuning.com/ (really good products and prices for everything)
      https://www.techtonicstuning.com (exhaust systems and more)
      http://www.vagparts.com/ (random parts for VW makes)
      http://www.vf-engineering.com/ (supercharger kits and more)
      http://www.jshouseofeuro.com (good products and good prices)
      http://platinumeuroparts.safeshopper.com (can find random neon lights and some random parts)
      http://www.vwperformancenorth.com/ (have styling parts for VW models, kind of pricey)
      http://www.volksdraggin.com/ (have all sorts of performance parts, brakes, styling, wheels…..)
      http://www.1552design.com/ (again everyone knows this site, good products and prices)
      http://www.advancedmotorsport.com/ (good prices and products, browse away)
      http://www.altramotorsport.com/ (good prices and good specials)
      http://www.bbrsportsline.com/ (all sorts of classy styling products, ABT, Caractere, AC snitzer (for BMW)
      http://www.europeanspeedsport.com/ (Eibach, Neuspeed, PIAA, Borla, JOM, etc….)
      http://www.evolution-racing.com/ (many performance parts, not only for VW)
      http://www.gmpperformance.com/ (have various VW parts, mostly Mercedes though)
      http://www.hopefungautoparts.com/ (Brembo, Hella, Bosch, and more)
      http://www.momentummotor.com/ (some sweet products, and good prices)
      http://www.motronixmotorsports.com/ (lots of products, very pricey though)
      http://www.pes-tuning.com (all sorts of products, like exhaust, shifter, etc…)
      http://www.supremepowerparts.com/ (group buys a few other things)
      http://www.wrdusa.com/ (VW racing, rally and road racing products)
      http://www.fastvws.com (very good product and prices)
      http://www.evoms.com/ (brakes, intakes, superchargers, and more)
      http://www.zender.de/ (German styling company, very nice products)
      http://www.z-engineeringusa.com/ (Supercharger kits for VW cars)
      http://www.bahnbrenner.com/ (lighting, engine, styling, everything, very good site)
      http://turn2usa.com (motor mounts, intakes, pulleys)
      http://www.parts4vws.com (very popular sites, very good prices and products, have everything)
      http://www.jrswaterworks.net (have to call for products and prices)
      http://www.purems.com/ (all sorts of aftermarket products for VW and others)
      http://www.goapr.com/ (turbo kits for VW, Audi, Porsche and exhausts)
      http://www.ferodoracing.it/ (ferodo racing brake and brake kits)
      http://8vturbo.com/ (turbo parts and other performance parts)
      http://www.adrenalinmotorsport.com/ (various performance parts for VW)
      http://www.advancedclutch.com (clutch kits for VW and other makes)
      http://www.bonrath.de/ (Bonrath styling site, good pictures)
      http://www.dietrich-tuning.de (Awesome VW styling part, German site)
      http://www.mattig.de/ (Styling and Wheels for VW, German site)
      Volkswagen OEM Parts
      http://www.germanautoparts.com/ (a good place to get OEM parts, pretty good prices)
      http://www.ecstuning.com/ (have OEM parts and wheel spacers)
      http://www.futrellautowerks.com/ (they have many OEM products)
      http://www.gprparts.com/ (have the basic list of OEM parts, a good source)
      http://www.eurocullen.com/ (has euro parts and more, but I am not sure how to order, good pics though)
      http://www.vwparts.com/ (a good place to find OEM parts)
      http://www.1autobodyparts.com/ (has the best prices for some OEM parts)
      http://www.partscomponents.com/ (also has the best OEM part prices, cheap shipping too)
      http://catalog.thepartsbin.com/ (have most OEM parts for sale)
      http://www.volksparts.com (OEM parts, a selection but not too big)
      Things to Accessorize your VDUB with
      http://www.autotoys.com (amazing prices on everything like alarms, cd players, dvd players, sweet place to hook up your ride with tvs and such)
      http://www.americastire.com (good place to get tires and wheels from)
      http://www.avolkswagenpart.com/ (cool merchandise and stuff)
      http://www.autosportvolkswagenparts.com/ (kind of like the other OEM sites)
      http://www.edgeracing.com/ (have lots of wheels to pick from)
      http://www.europeanplates.com (have some pretty sweet euro license plates)
      http://www.tires-n-parts.com (obviously tires and wheels)
      http://drivergear.vw.com/ (suit yourself up in some gear from VW)
      http://www.eurowerks.net/ (euro license plates)
      http://www.shgraphics.com/ (euro license plates)
      http://www.germanplates.com (euro license plates)

    17. Social Media Iron Man(and Administrator) jebglx's Avatar
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      2007 VW GTI 5DR
      05-25-2006 04:13 PM #42
      HOW TO: Replacing the VR6 Power Steering Pump
      thanks to mithril!
      Quote, originally posted by mithril »
      I wrote this HOWTO for the Corrado Club of Canada but figured I might as well post it here as well since I did do it on my Passat. Hope it helps someone out. Original thread: http://www.corrado-club.ca/for...00000
      ----------------------------------------------------------------
      Power steering pumps tend to be relatively bomb proof and therefore don't fail very often, however it does occassionally happen. The good news is that the power steering pump is the easiest pump to replace and can be easily accessed from underneath the car. The bad news is that they are quite expensive running from $200ish reman'ed to $330ish and up new. Because they don't break very often a used pump from a wrecker is often your cheapest option. The assuming no bolts strip or break entire replacement shouldn't take you much more than a couple hours. This job is also a great time to replace the v-belt if it looks a little worn as well as to drain and replace the power steering fluid. The pics in this thread are from my '93 Passat so they may be slightly different than your Corrado.
      What you'll need:
      - new power steering pump (Part #: 6N0 145 157)
      - VW G 002 000, aka CHF11s, power steering oil (2L if you plan to flush or 1L if you plan to reuse and top up)
      - new ribbed v-belt if you plan to replace (Part # 021 145 933H w/ AC or 021 145 933C w/o AC)
      - 1 M8x1.25x60mm bolt
      - a metric socket set
      - metric allen key or socket set
      - drain pan
      - jack and jack stands
      - flathead and Phillips screwdrivers as required
      Procedure:

      First we need to make some room to be able to access the v-belt from the top. This means that the air box has to come out.
      - remove the air duct that's normally on the passenger side upper rad support (indicated by the circle)
      - unplug the MAF sensor wiring harness (#1 in pic)
      - loosen the wormscrew clamp on the intake side of the MAF (#2)
      - unclip the clamps that lock the MAF to the airbox (#3 and #4)
      - wiggle the MAF out and place it somewhere safe... it costs $600 to replace remember
      - using a 10mm socket remove the upper bolt which secures the AC high pressure line (#5, may be Passat specific). there's a nut underneath which you must catch with your fingers
      - use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw (#6, probably also Passat specific) attaching the AC line to the upper rad support
      - gently lift the line out of the way
      Now you should be left with an engine bay looking like this, note the hole where the MAF used to be.

      Next you need to clip the top of the airbox clamshell, there are 4 clamps the corners. Remove the top of the airbox and the air filter element.

      Now slide the vac line grommet circled in this pic off the air box and remove the lower half of the airbox.

      Now you're rewarded with this sight, lots of room to work. Here's a good time to start threading your M8x1.25x60mm bolt into the belt tensioner (circled in pic). Just get it started, don't tighten it down. We'll need the belt tension later on to break the power steering pump pulley bolts.
      Time to go underneath. Jack up the car, put it on jackstands, and remove the passenger side front wheel (you remembered those wheel bolts first right?). We need to remove the undercover to gain full and easy access to the power steering pump. On the Passat the cover is attached by the circled bolts and a pressure fit tab into the front crossmember.

      Now that we've got access to everything, it's down to the real business. The power steering pump is attached to it's bracket by 5 13mm bolts, 3 of them can only be accessed by removing the pump's pulley. Since you need to swap the pulley onto your new pump, removal has to happen anyways.

      The pulley is attached to the impeller shaft by these 3 6mm hex bolts (part # N 014 706 2). They're not torqued very tight (18 ft/lbs), but the pulley needs to be held still to break them. If you've left your belt tensioned that should be enough, otherwise you can use a strap wrench or stick a long handled screw driver through the holes to hold it in place. Once you've broken the bolts it's time to screw the tensioner release bolt in as far as it will go then fully remove the pulley.

      To drop the pump you need to remove the 5 circled 13mm bolts (part # N 102 400 01, 18 ft/lbs torque). It's relatively tight in the bracket so you'll need to jiggle it to get it out. Just let it hang by the high pressure and return lines for the time being. To drain the power steering oil you need to unclamp and pull off the soft rubber return line. If the oil is relatively new and you plan to reuse it, make sure you drain it into a clean container. If in question just dispose of it and fill with fresh oil, power steering fluid should be changed every 2 years or 48,000km anyways. Once the fluid is drained you need to break and remove the 22m banjo bolt (part # 1H0 422 269, 22ft/lbs torqued, indicated by arrow) that attaches the high pressure line. There are 2 crush washers (part # N 013 848 1)with this bolt, don't lose them or you'll find you're leaking fluid. Replacing them is a good idea as well.
      Now you basically need to reattach everything in the reverse order. Getting the high pressure line in the right position to allow you to insert the pump into it's bracket and line the bolts up takes a bit of finicking so expect to have to torque and loosen that bolt a couple times at least. The best method for reattaching the new pump is:
      1. Pour a small amount of steering oil into feed hole.
      2. Attach the soft rubber return line.
      3. Attach the high pressure line.
      4. Bolt it to it's bracket.
      5. Attach the power steering pulley.
      6. Fill the reserviour with steering oil, but leave the cap off.
      If the spout for the return line isn't pointing 180 degrees from the pulley you'll need to rotate it until it is. It can be moved w/o harm, but it shouldn't be rotated anymore than is necessary. Use a rubber mallet to tap it around to the proper position before attaching the rubber line.
      Now that you have everything reconnected and steering oil in the system you need to prime the system by hand rotating the power steering pump several times (by several I mean alot) to circulate the oil. The pump is lubricated by the oil so running it dry will damage it severely. This also serves to bleed the system and you will almost certainly need to top up the reserviour. The power system system takes just under 2L of oil. Finally, with the car still on jack stands, turn the key to the accessory position and go lock to lock several times. Now top up the reserviour for the final time and close the cap.

      With the priming and bleeding of the power steering complete, all that's left to do it reinstall and/or retension the v-belt (see above for routing if you're unsure), reattach the under shield and wheel, drop the car, reinstall the airbox and reinstall/reconnect the MAF. You've just replaced your power steering pump and are ready to drive off.


    18. Social Media Iron Man(and Administrator) jebglx's Avatar
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      02-13-2008 04:45 PM #43

    19. Administrator LangsamKafer's Avatar
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      2015 Equinox
      11-26-2014 11:53 AM #44
      Hyperlinks updated.

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