I wrote this HOWTO for the Corrado Club of Canada but figured I might as well post it here as well since I did do it on my Passat. Hope it helps someone out. Original thread: http://www.corrado-club.ca/for...00000
Power steering pumps tend to be relatively bomb proof and therefore don't fail very often, however it does occassionally happen. The good news is that the power steering pump is the easiest pump to replace and can be easily accessed from underneath the car. The bad news is that they are quite expensive running from $200ish reman'ed to $330ish and up new. Because they don't break very often a used pump from a wrecker is often your cheapest option. The assuming no bolts strip or break entire replacement shouldn't take you much more than a couple hours. This job is also a great time to replace the v-belt if it looks a little worn as well as to drain and replace the power steering fluid. The pics in this thread are from my '93 Passat so they may be slightly different than your Corrado.
What you'll need:
- new power steering pump (Part #: 6N0 145 157)
- VW G 002 000, aka CHF11s, power steering oil (2L if you plan to flush or 1L if you plan to reuse and top up)
- new ribbed v-belt if you plan to replace (Part # 021 145 933H w/ AC or 021 145 933C w/o AC)
- 1 M8x1.25x60mm bolt
- a metric socket set
- metric allen key or socket set
- drain pan
- jack and jack stands
- flathead and Phillips screwdrivers as required
First we need to make some room to be able to access the v-belt from the top. This means that the air box has to come out.
- remove the air duct that's normally on the passenger side upper rad support (indicated by the circle)
- unplug the MAF sensor wiring harness (#1 in pic)
- loosen the wormscrew clamp on the intake side of the MAF (#2)
- unclip the clamps that lock the MAF to the airbox (#3 and #4)
- wiggle the MAF out and place it somewhere safe... it costs $600 to replace remember
- using a 10mm socket remove the upper bolt which secures the AC high pressure line (#5, may be Passat specific). there's a nut underneath which you must catch with your fingers
- use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw (#6, probably also Passat specific) attaching the AC line to the upper rad support
- gently lift the line out of the way
Now you should be left with an engine bay looking like this, note the hole where the MAF used to be.
Next you need to clip the top of the airbox clamshell, there are 4 clamps the corners. Remove the top of the airbox and the air filter element.
Now slide the vac line grommet circled in this pic off the air box and remove the lower half of the airbox.
Now you're rewarded with this sight, lots of room to work. Here's a good time to start threading your M8x1.25x60mm bolt into the belt tensioner (circled in pic). Just get it started, don't tighten it down. We'll need the belt tension later on to break the power steering pump pulley bolts.
Time to go underneath. Jack up the car, put it on jackstands, and remove the passenger side front wheel (you remembered those wheel bolts first right?). We need to remove the undercover to gain full and easy access to the power steering pump. On the Passat the cover is attached by the circled bolts and a pressure fit tab into the front crossmember.
Now that we've got access to everything, it's down to the real business. The power steering pump is attached to it's bracket by 5 13mm bolts, 3 of them can only be accessed by removing the pump's pulley. Since you need to swap the pulley onto your new pump, removal has to happen anyways.
The pulley is attached to the impeller shaft by these 3 6mm hex bolts (part # N 014 706 2). They're not torqued very tight (18 ft/lbs), but the pulley needs to be held still to break them. If you've left your belt tensioned that should be enough, otherwise you can use a strap wrench or stick a long handled screw driver through the holes to hold it in place. Once you've broken the bolts it's time to screw the tensioner release bolt in as far as it will go then fully remove the pulley.
To drop the pump you need to remove the 5 circled 13mm bolts (part # N 102 400 01, 18 ft/lbs torque). It's relatively tight in the bracket so you'll need to jiggle it to get it out. Just let it hang by the high pressure and return lines for the time being. To drain the power steering oil you need to unclamp and pull off the soft rubber return line. If the oil is relatively new and you plan to reuse it, make sure you drain it into a clean container. If in question just dispose of it and fill with fresh oil, power steering fluid should be changed every 2 years or 48,000km anyways. Once the fluid is drained you need to break and remove the 22m banjo bolt (part # 1H0 422 269, 22ft/lbs torqued, indicated by arrow) that attaches the high pressure line. There are 2 crush washers (part # N 013 848 1)with this bolt, don't lose them or you'll find you're leaking fluid. Replacing them is a good idea as well.
Now you basically need to reattach everything in the reverse order. Getting the high pressure line in the right position to allow you to insert the pump into it's bracket and line the bolts up takes a bit of finicking so expect to have to torque and loosen that bolt a couple times at least. The best method for reattaching the new pump is:
1. Pour a small amount of steering oil into feed hole.
2. Attach the soft rubber return line.
3. Attach the high pressure line.
4. Bolt it to it's bracket.
5. Attach the power steering pulley.
6. Fill the reserviour with steering oil, but leave the cap off.
If the spout for the return line isn't pointing 180 degrees from the pulley you'll need to rotate it until it is. It can be moved w/o harm, but it shouldn't be rotated anymore than is necessary. Use a rubber mallet to tap it around to the proper position before attaching the rubber line.
Now that you have everything reconnected and steering oil in the system you need to prime the system by hand rotating the power steering pump several times (by several I mean alot) to circulate the oil. The pump is lubricated by the oil so running it dry will damage it severely. This also serves to bleed the system and you will almost certainly need to top up the reserviour. The power system system takes just under 2L of oil. Finally, with the car still on jack stands, turn the key to the accessory position and go lock to lock several times. Now top up the reserviour for the final time and close the cap.
With the priming and bleeding of the power steering complete, all that's left to do it reinstall and/or retension the v-belt (see above for routing if you're unsure), reattach the under shield and wheel, drop the car, reinstall the airbox and reinstall/reconnect the MAF. You've just replaced your power steering pump and are ready to drive off.