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    Thread: 20v head + MK4 2.0L AEG, AZG, and newer (NOT ABA, NOT 9A, NOT G60, etc)

    1. Member elRey's Avatar
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      05-18-2009 11:47 AM #101
      Quote, originally posted by vw collector »
      Any solid answers on the use of the 30v pistons on the AEG 20/20T?

      ask vwpat directly. I believe he may have some insight into this.

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      05-18-2009 05:17 PM #102
      Quote, originally posted by elRey »
      ask vwpat directly. I believe he may have some insight into this.

      [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      If you still have the car under control, you are not going fast enough...

      Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, Torque is how far you take the wall with you...

    3. 09-26-2009 09:21 PM #103
      Will the 20V head from a vw beetle 1.8t fit a mk4 golf 2.0??? dont bit me if i said sumthin silly!
      Thanks

    4. Member mk4_2.ho's Avatar
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      10-05-2009 05:48 PM #104
      subscribed...going 20v NA in the daily beater, so this is getting me started on the right foot...now to chase software.
      Quote Originally Posted by patrikman View Post
      First I would bag her. Then I would roll her fenders, then poke her, then stretch her. By the time I was done she would be stanced.

    5. Member mk4_2.ho's Avatar
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      10-19-2009 12:51 AM #105
      want some more info? i got it!
      i've been attacking this build for 3 reasons:
      1: i have a BRAND NEW aeb head in plastic in my shed.
      2: i have an avh code 2.0 block that needs rings (previous owner dumped the full quart of marvel into a near-empty crankcase, washed the rings out)
      3: my 2.0 jetta needs more power and a 16v swap, while cheaper, could end up being MORE work.
      here's what i've found:
      --eurospec 83mm 5v pistons with 1.8t rods WILL clear the 5th valve with a 2.0 crank.
      --your stock 2.0 crank is fine, though 03-up guys may want to ditch the balancer and ginormous oil pump and replace with an earlier design.
      --if you use the european head gasket, your compression will stay at whatever your piston is rated for (or so i hear, i have yet to bolt the head on and get hard numbers).
      --YOU DO NOT NEED TO ORDER CUSTOM PISTONS (other than bore size)! i am using pistons designed for a 1.8t and they clear just fine with the appropriate matched rods (which is factory for now, new scat rods will go in next week, then the final build takes place). of course, this is turning by hand, but i do not see the pistons going anywhere near over the top of the piston wall. and yes, they are coated with LOTS of assembly lube.
      this all being said, i hope it inspires more to take the plunge. it is NOT a cheap proposition (i have $1300 into it so far without rods), BUT it promises more power, a stronger bottom end, and better breathing up top.

      oh yeah, there was a factory 2.0 20v, it used 82.5mm bore pistons with a 92.8mm stroke, i am researching it, it is engine code alt. researching this motor will give us all more insight into the swap itself (namely rods).


      Modified by mk4_2.ho at 10:08 PM 10-18-2009
      Quote Originally Posted by patrikman View Post
      First I would bag her. Then I would roll her fenders, then poke her, then stretch her. By the time I was done she would be stanced.

    6. Member Prof315's Avatar
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      10-19-2009 06:41 AM #106
      Quote, originally posted by AutoCrosser11 »
      I got a SMT-6 smart tuner if your interested. but really I would run megasquit

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    7. Member elRey's Avatar
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      10-19-2009 01:29 PM #107
      Quote, originally posted by mk4_2.ho »
      2: i have an avh code 2.0 block that needs rings (previous owner dumped the full quart of marvel into a near-empty crankcase, washed the rings out)

      ??? curious what this means so I don't do it.

      Quote, originally posted by mk4_2.ho »
      --YOU DO NOT NEED TO ORDER CUSTOM PISTONS (other than bore size)! i am using pistons designed for a 1.8t and they clear just fine with the appropriate matched rods (which is factory for now, new scat rods will go in next week, then the final build takes place). of course, this is turning by hand, but i do not see the pistons going anywhere near over the top of the piston wall.

      So, you're saying that a 3.2mm difference in deck height doesn't put the pistons above the deck into the head? Are you sure you have 86.4mm stroke pistons and not 92.8mm stroke pistons?

    8. Member mk4_2.ho's Avatar
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      10-19-2009 03:58 PM #108
      rey, the previous owner of the block was a teenage girl, she told her dad the car was losing oil, before checking it out, he dumped a whole quart of marvel mystery oil into it. it had MAYBE a half-quart of the real stuff. when i got the car to fix, the rings were washed to hell, car wouldn't even start, and when it did, a different cylinder would misfire every single time.
      i'm also guessing that maybe he threw in some motor flush too sometime beforehand and had his daughter drive it around.
      in any case, i put a motor in with 11,000 miles, car runs fine, i kept the old block.
      block was bored to 83mm so as to accept larger, new pistons. the pistons are eurospec 5v pistons, 83mm bore, 92.8mm stroke. i spoke with mike@eurospec, this is what he recommended for the project. compression ratio is 9.0:1. i was mistaken earlier if i mentioned 86.4mm. it was late, i had been up huffing fumes from various cleaners and chemicals putting the head together. they are, in fact, designed for a 1.8t, just a bored and stroked variation.
      connecting rods are standard issue mk4 144mm rods. i went with scat, you could go with anyone you'd feel comfortable with.
      i'm hoping with a good tune on the gt30, i should be deep into the 3s.
      Quote Originally Posted by patrikman View Post
      First I would bag her. Then I would roll her fenders, then poke her, then stretch her. By the time I was done she would be stanced.

    9. Member J.Owen's Avatar
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      10-22-2009 03:49 PM #109
      hmm, I have a full AVH long block that I just picked up to build. After reading all of this it makes me seriously consider taking the 20/20 approach.
      BlownEuros.com

      Expenses in F1 have gone down since the 1960s because teams don't need an extra pit crew to help the driver carry around his balls when he is not in the car.

    10. 10-22-2009 05:41 PM #110
      I have a 20/20 engine w/ C2 software but it wont start...can the 20v cam position sensor trigger the aeg coil pack, if so witch cam rotor to use (1 window aeb or the 4 window awp)?
      i keep geting a 17465 code - camshaft adjustment
      any body have any ideas. and would this code cause no spark?



      Modified by bwidow at 2:51 PM 10-22-2009

    11. Member elRey's Avatar
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      10-22-2009 05:50 PM #111
      what management? (base ecu... AEG ecu?)
      4-window
      only time 1-window is used is for AEB and even AEB can use 4-window without problems.

    12. 10-22-2009 05:52 PM #112
      99 aeg i think its motronic 5.2? thats been reflash w/ C2 software for a 2.0l w/20v head, t3 turbo..


      Modified by bwidow at 2:58 PM 10-22-2009

    13. Member elRey's Avatar
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      10-22-2009 05:58 PM #113
      Yes, 4-window 1.8T CPS wheel will work with AEG ECU (chipped or not).
      And the ECU fires the coil pack. You threw me off when you post a cam adjustment DTC.... that's usually for 1.8Ts that have VVT.
      What did you for wiring harness? swap a complete 1.8T harness or cut and splice?


      Modified by elRey at 5:59 PM 10-22-2009

    14. 10-22-2009 06:01 PM #114
      so what would cause the no spark condition? I just went out to the garage and tried cranking it again with the scanner plugged in and dtc code 17465 came up again?


      Modified by bwidow at 3:20 PM 10-22-2009

    15. 10-22-2009 06:22 PM #115
      Do you think they would have flashed my ecu with a 1.8t w/ vvt file?

    16. Member elRey's Avatar
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      10-22-2009 08:10 PM #116
      What did you for wiring harness? swap a complete 1.8T harness or cut and splice?

    17. 10-23-2009 02:52 PM #117
      the stock 2L aeg harness with the plug for the cam sensor spliced in..

    18. Member elRey's Avatar
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      10-23-2009 05:06 PM #118
      plug wires? TB wires extended?
      Is the CPS connector spliced correctly... or are your wires crossed?


      Modified by elRey at 5:08 PM 10-23-2009

    19. 10-23-2009 05:24 PM #119
      im using 16v wires, tb wires wernt cut just rerouted to tb.
      i used to numbers on the conectors to match up wires.
      the aeb conector has a white/black going to aeg plug wire#1
      grey/green going to " " " #2
      black going to " " " #3
      hey ELREY thank you for taking time to help me out I really appreciate it. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]


      Modified by bwidow at 2:45 PM 10-23-2009

    20. Member elRey's Avatar
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      10-23-2009 05:44 PM #120
      My AEB diagrams show:
      green/purple= pin #1
      green/grey = pin #2
      grey/white = pin #3
      AEG:
      purple/red = pin #1
      purple/yellow = pin #2
      brown/black = pin #3
      And AEG pin#s should = AEB pin#s

    21. 10-23-2009 05:50 PM #121
      thats the way i have them 1 to 1, 2 to 2, etc. I even tried 1 to 3, 3 to1
      the middle wire is usually the signal one right.

    22. Member mk4_2.ho's Avatar
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      10-23-2009 10:45 PM #122
      ok, so 4window and 16v wires are a must...sweet, and good to know.
      i got the motor together, turning by hand, nothing is hitting, no funky noises, we should be good to go.
      i'll be doing the c2 file as well, so long as they can delete sai out of it.
      i extended my harness as well, no use in using the 1.8t harness when c2 writes a program for the 2.0 20vt.
      side note guys, the 16v manifold (mk2/b3/sII) will also bolt up to the 20v head. should make na conversions MUCH easier...but who wants a 20v without a snail? :-p i say this because my turbo manifold was from my old 16v jetta, wanted to see if it could fit on a whim, and it did.
      Quote Originally Posted by patrikman View Post
      First I would bag her. Then I would roll her fenders, then poke her, then stretch her. By the time I was done she would be stanced.

    23. 10-24-2009 08:53 PM #123
      C2 will take out the SAI but you have to tell them too...
      i think ive tried evrything in the book to get this thing started, im still not getting any spark...


      Modified by bwidow at 7:13 AM 10-25-2009

    24. Member J.Owen's Avatar
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      10-26-2009 12:16 AM #124
      Quote, originally posted by mk4_2.ho »
      YOU DO NOT NEED TO ORDER CUSTOM PISTONS ... pistons designed for a 1.8t and they clear just fine with the appropriate matched rods

      With that being said, it would seem its possible to just order something like the IE piston/rod combo linked below?
      http://www.intengineering.com/....html


      Modified by J.Owen at 8:16 PM 10-27-2009
      BlownEuros.com

      Expenses in F1 have gone down since the 1960s because teams don't need an extra pit crew to help the driver carry around his balls when he is not in the car.

    25. Member mk4_2.ho's Avatar
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      10-27-2009 12:15 AM #125
      if the pistons will support the 92.8mm stroke of the 2.0, then yes, that would be a good setup (and inexpensive too!)
      rods are rods in the mk4, just get the right diameter wrist pin size.
      the pistons are the unicorn so to speak. i ordered mine from eurospec, it's an off-the-shelf piston so to speak for them. they were also $100 cheaper than je or wiseco as well (or so i thought).
      with more and more builders using the fsi crank (only difference is the forged-ness), more 2008cc cars will be on the road, pistons should be more readily available as the days go by.
      here's the pistons that wiseco offers, josh, you coulda saved me $250 by linking that site about two weeks ago:
      http://www.intengineering.com/....html
      Modified by mk4_2.ho at 9:17 PM 10-26-2009


      Modified by mk4_2.ho at 9:29 PM 10-26-2009
      Quote Originally Posted by patrikman View Post
      First I would bag her. Then I would roll her fenders, then poke her, then stretch her. By the time I was done she would be stanced.

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