Any 1.8t 20v sensor (hall sensor) will work.Next steps I would do is
- try a know good hall sensor
- try a stock AEG ecu
#141
so i just went out and checked for continuity on the cam sensor wires back to ecu plug and they checked out ok. Spark plug wires are in their right place
1-2-3-4 spark plugs3 1
2 4 coil
cam sensor pn#232-101-024
#142
Any 1.8t 20v sensor (hall sensor) will work.Next steps I would do is
- try a know good hall sensor
- try a stock AEG ecu
#143
I'll try a brand new cam sensor, ive tried 2 different ones already, and i have a $500 c2 chipped ecu as far as trying another ecu, does any body have an 06A-906-018 CR ecu around that can come and try it. ill pay foy your time...
#144
Find a friend with a 1.8t and try their hall sensor.
And any AEG will do for a test.
#145
Very intresting topic, I have a 20v head AWD sitting around..... It came off of the 00 1.8T (it has 5 or 6 valves bent)... I might go for it....
#147
hey guys so I go to the bone yard today for ****s an giggles and they had a jetta with a ecu in it still, got it for $10. put it in the beetle, and what do you know it started right up. C2 needs to tell me something!!!!. ELREY I said it before and Ill say it again thank you....
#148
Quote, originally posted by bwidow » they had a jetta with a ecu in it still, got it for $10. put it in the beetle, and what do you know it started right up. hell of a find!
#149
The c2 chipped one is going in the mail tommorow morning, Ive been bumming rides to work for over threee months, theyve been telling me its something to do w/ the cam sensor not being the the original one that came with the car.....
#151
Guys have u seen this?Look at the CR...12.3:1 Nice! and 82.75mm or 82.5mm, i will order this pistons one i start my conversion, i will go n/a for some time.
http://www.bildon.com/catalog/...av=62
Modified by sauron18 at 12:49 PM 2-14-2010
#152
You better not use use that plomo **** gas over there. high compression requires high octane gas or its gonna knock like a bastard.. just my 2cents. my dad is from D.R.
Modified by bwidow at 1:53 PM 2-18-2010
#153
I have ask around and the regular(plomo) is 89 and the premium only 91...so i think here the highest cr would be 11 or less. So no good here for that type of pistons.
#154
how would one tel lthe machine shop what to remove from the stock 2l piston? would they know if i took the head up there or is it some secret formula.
WTB 16 mk5 steelies
15 SONGS ABOUT NOTHING BUT VWS ON YOUR FAVORITE BEATS!
#156
Quote, originally posted by bwidow » The c2 chipped one is going in the mail tommorow morning, ..... Any update?
Also, I'd like to start a list of ppl who have actually completed this swap. I'll keep the list updated in the first post.
Modified by elRey at 3:02 PM 2-25-2010
#157
Does this thread and info also apply to a BEV engine too?I hope it does!!!
#158
I mailed the ecu back to c2, two weeks ago. my wife spoke w/chris yesterday. i should know something tommorow. hopefully on my knees praying every thing turns out ok, if not every thing will be up for sale?
#159
Has anyone successfully completed this yet?![]()
If you still have the car under control, you are not going fast enough...
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, Torque is how far you take the wall with you...
#161
Ok I got my ecu back on monday. I put it in and fired right up, so im up and running. Now I need to put the manual boost controller in and weld in the bov. One of my friends gave a cheapo mbc that I'll be using till the bugs get worked out.
#162
i aplogize for not reading through to find this answer. what are the last 2 letters on your ecu? does the c2 flash for this use the same 42# injectors and 3in maf housing as the 8v file? if not what are you using? thanks
How did the hipster burn himself? Drank his coffee before it was cool.
#163
sgolf, the last 2 letters on my ecu are CR. as for the injectors they are the same bosch green tops and im running 3" inlet. the file that C2 used was a bit custom to allow for extra flow of the head.
#164
thanks for the info. was the price of the flash also "custom" or was it the same 350 as for their generic flashes?
How did the hipster burn himself? Drank his coffee before it was cool.
#165
I like this pistons...better if it was 10 but they are not custom.JE 83MM Bore 92.8MM Stroke 9.5:1 CR
#166
If someone use those pistons 9.5:1 and the AEB headgasket will the CR end up higher?
Modified by sauron18 at 7:25 PM 4-12-2010
#167
okay so does anyone have a list of parts needed for this? obviously
20V head
2.0L bottom end.
new pistons.
1.8 timing belt and tensioner
1.8 head gasket
1.8 fuel rail/injectors
and chip tuning? that all sound about right or is there more
#168
16v tensioner, and the top o rings from your old injectors 0n the 42#'s if your go FI. Oh before i forget youll need to make a plug from your cam pos. sensor to the 1.8t cps, and use the aww trigger wheel. the aeb is a one window wheel.
Last edited by bwidow; 05-23-2010 at 01:40 PM.
#169
post for subscription, lookin to do this within the next year, hopefully by then most bugs will be worked out. great thread
#170
i have.... AEB head, AZG block. but we did a little different for internals.
150mm rods, 21mm pins, all custom rods and pistons. 86.4mm forged crank. billet mains. girdle. solid lifter head setup. 1893cc....
i have one thing to add, because i didnt waste the time to read the whole entire thread.
the locator dowel pins for the AEB head and the 06A 2.0L block do not line up. what is YOUR fix? delete them?
we drilled the block to line up with the head, so the dowels can still locate the head gasket.
just my $0.02.... oh yes, and mine on low boost made 615 AWHP last night on the dyno.....![]()
#171
and one other addition. an AEG block would be a poor choice for this as it has no oils squirters. the AZG would be a better go at it. then again, the AEG would not need piston skirt notching to clear the squirters becasue they are not there....
$0.02
#174
So im starting from scratch with just an AEB 20v head, wiring harness, ecu, and tb. I can use any block and have time on my side to finish this. SO I want to go with the simplest combo.
What would be my most cost effective way about building a 20/20?
from what I've read its to get one of these mk4 2L blocks.
I was originally going to start with an aba block but after reading and understanding the work that would be involved in the head to make it match up would add cost.
Then I was going to do aeg, but then it seems that all i need is the block, ill need a 2.0t crank, rods, and custom pistons to beef everything up. Then I just read it does not have oil squirters.
Now I'm wondering what it would cost if I just did a stroker kit for a 1.8t block?
Seems like it would require the same parts as the aeg. This would not require any modifications to the head gasket.
Quick look at IE website and it seems that the cost is not too far apart for parts.
Am I missing something? Kinda seems like the 1.8t stroker block would be the cheapest easiest.
FS: Happich Replacement seals
**WTB: G60 or lysholm chargers** **WTB: LED R mk6 tails no fog** **WTB: 2.0 20v pistons and rods**
#175
to add to all of that what about the mk5 2.0t block?
Is that an 06a block?
Cant find ANY info on that thing.
FS: Happich Replacement seals
**WTB: G60 or lysholm chargers** **WTB: LED R mk6 tails no fog** **WTB: 2.0 20v pistons and rods**