Any 1.8t 20v sensor (hall sensor) will work.
Next steps I would do is
- try a know good hall sensor
- try a stock AEG ecu
hey guys so I go to the bone yard today for ****s an giggles and they had a jetta with a ecu in it still, got it for $10. put it in the beetle, and what do you know it started right up. C2 needs to tell me something!!!!. ELREY I said it before and Ill say it again thank you....
The c2 chipped one is going in the mail tommorow morning, Ive been bumming rides to work for over threee months, theyve been telling me its something to do w/ the cam sensor not being the the original one that came with the car.....
how would one tel lthe machine shop what to remove from the stock 2l piston? would they know if i took the head up there or is it some secret formula.
WTB 16 mk5 steelies
15 SONGS ABOUT NOTHING BUT VWS ON YOUR FAVORITE BEATS!
Quote, originally posted by bwidow » The c2 chipped one is going in the mail tommorow morning, .....
Also, I'd like to start a list of ppl who have actually completed this swap. I'll keep the list updated in the first post.
Modified by elRey at 3:02 PM 2-25-2010
i aplogize for not reading through to find this answer. what are the last 2 letters on your ecu? does the c2 flash for this use the same 42# injectors and 3in maf housing as the 8v file? if not what are you using? thanks
How did the hipster burn himself? Drank his coffee before it was cool.
16v tensioner, and the top o rings from your old injectors 0n the 42#'s if your go FI. Oh before i forget youll need to make a plug from your cam pos. sensor to the 1.8t cps, and use the aww trigger wheel. the aeb is a one window wheel.
Last edited by bwidow; 05-23-2010 at 01:40 PM.
150mm rods, 21mm pins, all custom rods and pistons. 86.4mm forged crank. billet mains. girdle. solid lifter head setup. 1893cc....
i have one thing to add, because i didnt waste the time to read the whole entire thread.
the locator dowel pins for the AEB head and the 06A 2.0L block do not line up. what is YOUR fix? delete them?
we drilled the block to line up with the head, so the dowels can still locate the head gasket.
just my $0.02.... oh yes, and mine on low boost made 615 AWHP last night on the dyno.....
So im starting from scratch with just an AEB 20v head, wiring harness, ecu, and tb. I can use any block and have time on my side to finish this. SO I want to go with the simplest combo.
What would be my most cost effective way about building a 20/20?
from what I've read its to get one of these mk4 2L blocks.
I was originally going to start with an aba block but after reading and understanding the work that would be involved in the head to make it match up would add cost.
Then I was going to do aeg, but then it seems that all i need is the block, ill need a 2.0t crank, rods, and custom pistons to beef everything up. Then I just read it does not have oil squirters.
Now I'm wondering what it would cost if I just did a stroker kit for a 1.8t block?
Seems like it would require the same parts as the aeg. This would not require any modifications to the head gasket.
Quick look at IE website and it seems that the cost is not too far apart for parts.
Am I missing something? Kinda seems like the 1.8t stroker block would be the cheapest easiest.
FS: Happich Replacement seals
**WTB: G60 or lysholm chargers** **WTB: LED R mk6 tails no fog** **WTB: 2.0 20v pistons and rods**