would the 12.3:1 compression ratio pistons run ok with 93 octane?
[QUOTE=Richard_Cranium;66002999]and one other addition. an AEG block would be a poor choice for this as it has no oils squirters. the AZG would be a better go at it. then again, the AEG would not need piston skirt notching to clear the squirters becasue they are not there....
I was thinking of doing this swap.... i was looking to go N/A for some time. But i got a AEG, so if you say it is a poor choice is no good for me then? Can someone confirm me if the stock ecu will run the 20v head? if i go n/a?
What happen if i add a 2.1 TDI crankshaft? here are the pistons
Also i found a post saying that engines with a stroker dosen't have good longetivity? is that true? i will use my car for daily driver for some time.
Last edited by sauron18; 02-27-2011 at 01:32 PM.
my head hurts... so would these work?
i can find stand alone tuning so thts no issue. jst need pistons. does anyone have this running?
8v Society #823
those pistons will not work. If you want 9:1 compression and are using a 2L crank (92.8mm stroke) use these http://www.intengineering.com/Mahle-...57146-1-2.html or these http://www.intengineering.com/Wiseco...01832-1-2.html
but you'll have to get your cylinders bored out 0.5MM, stock they are 82.5mm. You could also get custom pistons made for a reasonable price so you wouldn't have to get your cylinders bored out. Contact Issam at INA he can get them for you
Last edited by MonkeyBusiness; 04-13-2011 at 12:48 PM.
Last edited by sauron18; 05-20-2011 at 02:34 PM.
would pistons that are 82.50mm, 19mm Wrist Pin (06B 198 075 F) from a 1.8t fit with the aeg block in terms of being notched for the 20v head?
or one of these?? http://eurospecsport.com/products/co...stons-ETS.html
Last edited by MikeyMurray; 06-21-2011 at 11:48 PM.
My VW--2000 GLS
Classics--1975 Puch Maxi Sport, 1976 Puch Maxi Rigid, 1977 PuchMagnum
These pistons below are 95.5mm to use the TDI crank, or 2.1 20v
Last edited by sauron18; 06-22-2011 at 01:01 AM.
This 20/20 looks very interesting, but not as inexpensive as I could have hoped. Has anyone compared (and written down) 16vT vs. 20vT labor (time) and parts (cost) for a MkIV 2.slo conversion? I assume the ultimate potential is about equal, but please correct me if I'm wrong.
In addition to the MkIV with 2.slo ('01, so I presume AEG), I've got 9A (2L 16V) and AEB (1.8T) parts engines kicking about, as well as an early A4 donor for AEB wiring and ECU. Hmmm, would a complete AEB engine bolt into a Mk4, or are the mounting holes as misplaced as the ABA? I also have Scirocco 16V and Golf 1.8T bare intakes, but no other newer 1.8T stuff. I want to end up with about 300 very streetable whp, although I'd probably settle for slightly less if significantly cheaper.
If you want, you can order the custom pistons you need in a snap right here:
Just pick your desired compression ratio, 82.5mm bore (if you don't want to bore it), and 92.8mm stroke.
I do recommend boring them though which is why we do not offer an 82.5mm piston in our regular inventory.
Of course, we are always available to help you set them up as well if you need help. 888.60.INTENG
As far as results, just look at any 2L 1.8t- the results will be the same. FWIW, I have made well over 800 crank without oil squirters, but I wouldn't recommend it. It was a "no other choice" scenario. It will work just fine for drag racing though, in fact it helps the oil pump keep up with demand somewhat at higher rpm's (8500+) and large bearing clearances.
Thanks Pete. I've had serious issues with the oil squirters on a street car, and never missed them on low stress race cars. That said, I can definitely see how they'd help with high boost even with a good thermal coating on top. I note that my '01 Wagon seems to have the AZG, which I think probably has squirters. BTW, which gasket gives the rated CRs for those pistons? That is, could I get 7.5:1 just by using the later 1.8t gasket with the 8.0:1 pistons?
EDIT: I don't have AEG or AZG, but AVH (late '01 wagon built 4/01). I didn't realize before as I just got the car, but I think it's actually a drive-by-wire (DBW) throttle. Anyone know what extra complications I might face with this swap?
Last edited by o2bad455; 08-22-2011 at 09:06 PM.
I'm getting serious about this, and trying to decide weather it would be worth getting a transverse 1.8T parts car. I've already got the '01 Wagon with AVH (06A block), an Audi A4 parts car with AEB (058 block, threw rod but has good large-port head and usable turbo), and a transverse NB intake (same as Golf? this one's bare w/o TB). If I buy rods and custom pistons, what other parts would I need from a transverse 1.8T to get this together cleanly? For example, would I still need a transverse 1.8T (06A/B) DBW TB, coolant fittings, hoses, cam pulley, oil pan, and maybe ECU (so I can have some level of self-tuning and/or chip selection)? I guess another option for the TB and ECU might be converting from DBW to DBC and borrowing as much as possible from the Audi. Thoughts?
I read that we also need the front 1.8T lower flange to clear intake, and later (4-window) CPS to match the ECU (unless using AEB ECU, but even then the 4-window should work).
you are going to use engine management off the 2.0 and get custom software, or a regular 2.0 turbo file would probably work or get stand alone. You could use the 1.8t ECU, but I dont know anything about that, I think you have to add some sensors. OEM rods are good to ~300hp so unless you plan on making more I wouldnt bother upgrading them. Use the 1.8t tensioner. any 1.8t CPS that is a 4 window will work with the stock 2.0ecu or non aeb ecu
I my Koni Coilovers
[QUOTE=o2bad455;73273851]Wow, this is great news that I missed the first time. I happen to have a BT on tubular 16V exhaust header that I'd love to use with an AEB 20V head!
So we can use the 20v upper manifold and the lower manifold with a 16V exhaust header if for N/A.
i've got an aeg 2.0 and an awp 1.8t with bent valves in the garage i got for free. Is there anyone here who had done this 20v head swap succesfully, page one has zero people listed as completing the swap. I know a few have done it on aba's and what not. Please let me know. I need specifics and i want to start building soon. I'm getting a another car very soon to drive over the winter
Last edited by Moshua; 11-19-2011 at 03:10 AM.
So I got a AEB head and a AEG 99.5. Would 9A 16v 2L pistons make this a fairly bolt on affair? What compression ratio would this achieve?
A lot of the guys with the older style blocks seem to run the 9A pistions with a notch for the 3rd valve with no issues I've heard of yet. I'm planning to run megasquirt on it and am not sure if I will do turbo or NA(depends how cheap I can do this)
building a DD and have been planning it for months now, was planning on swapping blocks and upgrading rods and pistons.
came on here to see if anyone has used a TDI crank in an AEG hoping to see how easy it would be to make a 2.1 or 2.2L.
then i hear about this oil squirter issue, i thought the AEG had oil squirters. i just read that pete from IE doesnt reccomend the swap because the lack of the squirters.
what are people doing about this ? anything ? what happens if i use the aeg block with out them.
GT3076 around 28 PSI. (High RPM - 9.5k)
Anyways, I'm using my AEG block and I wont sweat not having the squirters....if you are shooting for really high HP, then it'd probably be a smart investment. But I'm shooting for 300-400hp, and I believe the AEG block will be sufficient.
I have a few questions for those that have done this build:
Is using the 16v wires a better idea then using 1.8t coilpacks with the harnesses added in to the 2.0 engine harness?
I have a AZG it has squitters so it better to have them? I have pistons and rods to make the 20v swap but i need to get the other parts. Zaskar is doing a build below is the build with a AEG 20v and a F4t.