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    VWVortex


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    Thread: Aftermarket radio install in MKIV Jetta

    1. 02-24-2006 01:02 AM #1
      Okay, after looking at all the DIY's for two days straight, I can tell a few things that are not mentioned.

      If you are going to install an aftermarket radio in a later MKIV or MKV, there are two items that are not really mentioned clearly.

      One is the antenna adaptor. The correct one is for an ampliefied antenna. From Metra it is an EU-55. The non amplified one, EU-10 will work, but since the anntenna amp is not turned on, reception will suffer.
      [IMG][/IMG]http://enfigcarstereo.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/media/40_eu55.jpg

      The second is the CAN line. The OEM radio is turned on by the CAN bus. The ground is pin 12, the BAT is pin 15. There is no accessory to turn off the aftermarket radio, but you have three choices.

      Using Metra 80-9003:
      1. Hook up the accessory of the radio to the vehicle ignition. Pretty easy and there is a stud underneath the dash.

      2. Hook up a relay to the key sense wire (18g brown/red) located in the steering column. You will hook up pin 30 to the red/acc wire; pin 87 to the BAT/yel wire; 85 to ground; 86 to the key sense wire. This lets you use the radio with the car off, but will obviously turn off the radio when you remove the key.

      3. Use Metra XSVI-9003 for 2002 and newer cars. It uses a circuit to interface with the CAN bus to turn the radio on. Simple to install, and includes an illumination wire to control a deck's lighting. Will keep the radio on until you open a door and remove the key, but you cannot just turn on the aftermarket radio just by pushing a button in. You still have to enter the key.
      http://enfigcarstereo.com/shop...3.jpg

      As far as kits, the OEM pocket (MKIV) and OEM kit (MKV) work way better than the Metra parts, but the Metra kit will accept a double din, where the OEM kit is for a single din only.

      Some notes:

      The Monsoon amp is turned on by speaker sense, so no outside connections need be done past the speaker connections at the wire harness adaptor. The stock Monsoon deck is already a high level input to the amp, so no issue shoud arise from a new deck with the stock amp. Past that, you would have to remove the amp and install passive crossovers for the the mid and tweeter; in case you wanted to add an aftermarket amp for better performance.


      Modified by ricksterincc at 10:05 PM 2-23-2006


      Modified by ricksterincc at 10:12 PM 2-23-2006


    2. Member kwalton's Avatar
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      02-24-2006 11:13 AM #2
      you are correct on all accounts. this has been discussed so many times amybe a moderator should put this in the DIY/FAQ

    3. 03-14-2006 03:23 PM #3
      how would one go about replacing front and rear tweeters in an mkiv?

    4. 03-17-2006 11:10 AM #4
      bump

    5. 03-20-2006 02:35 PM #5
      I just did it last week, it was pretty simple but it will depend on the tweeters that you use. I used the kenwood excelon kfc-x1700p component set and the tweeters were too big to remount in the factory places behind the panel, and the flush mount kit required to big a hole to cut out in the front tweeter space so I just removed the factorry tweets and surface mounted the new ones over the holes for the original ones.

    6. 03-20-2006 03:25 PM #6
      i just bought new factory ones, i am just confused on how to take the old ones out, i found a diy for removing the front door panel, but what about the rear?

    7. 03-20-2006 03:47 PM #7
      Mine is a golf so it was quite abit different thatn your will be but I'm pretty sure I read a thread that said the rear jetta doors were the same as the front passenger door.

    8. 03-20-2006 04:07 PM #8
      This is why I don't like using any adaptor harness... Chop the wires and use a multimeter to find the wires you need... If you need to go back to stock, some solder heatshrink and 20 mins of your time does wonders...

    9. 03-25-2006 03:17 PM #9
      so where is the stud you could use under the dash?

    10. 03-25-2006 03:55 PM #10
      Quote, originally posted by ricksterincc »
      but the Metra kit will accept a double din, where the OEM kit is for a single din only.

      This confused me! The dash opening is a double-din, so why would you get a kit in the first place, if using a double-din headunit. You only need a pocket if you have a factory double-din and switching to a single din headunit.


    11. 03-25-2006 06:04 PM #11
      Quote, originally posted by wannabeg6 »
      so where is the stud you could use under the dash?

      That was the only thing I routed from somewhere else... didn't want to use factory ground, so I went down to where the shifter bolts up, and used that as a ground point...


    12. 03-28-2006 01:16 AM #12
      I was referring to the MK5. The MK5 has a non standard radio size. So you use the Metra kit to install a double din. As for a singel din, the OEM kit works a lot better.

    13. Member silverstone18t's Avatar
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      04-26-2006 03:04 AM #13
      Any issues with the CAN-BUS or K-wire (that wire that was blowing up dealer diag tools) or alarm wire? don't want to screw any of that up. I don't plan on touching any of that, just speaker wires (through adapter) and then power/ground/ignition direct from sources. As long as I don't touch them I won't get any problems right?

      Also how do I get the OEM radio code before I pull the plug? where is the code at? or how do I retreive it?

      oh yeah for non-monsoon 04 gti 1.8t stick


    14. 04-28-2006 12:39 PM #14
      I've got a question, I have a 2000 Jetta with an aftermarket stereo in it. Now the check engine light is on and nothing I do seems to have any effect. In short my hair line is receeding quickly.
      Any Suggestions?

    15. 04-28-2006 06:52 PM #15
      Quote, originally posted by pookz »
      This is why I don't like using any adaptor harness... Chop the wires and use a multimeter to find the wires you need... If you need to go back to stock, some solder heatshrink and 20 mins of your time does wonders...

      i have the stock harness and an aftermarket adaptor harness in my jetta. when i got a cel i had to throw my stock hu back in..took 5 minutes

      and to answer the guys question above me...put your stock hu back in and get your ecu scanned


    16. 05-03-2006 11:46 PM #16
      I have a 2000 Jetta vr6 glx. Just bought it a month ago. Installed a aftermarket radio (Clarion VRX755VD) 2 weeks after buying the car. A month later started having issues with battery draining. First thing I did was change battery. Car worked fine til a month later so I changed the alternator. Car was fine til a week later so I took it to VW dealership to check charging system. They said it was fine. That it seemed to be a bad battery.(that was only a monthand a half old) Ok so I swapped it no money out of my pocket. A week later car is dead again. So....anyways sorry this is long. My Question is... Is there some special way an aftermarket radio is installed in this car? The radio is the only thing I have done since I got the car. Cant seem to find the problem. Thanks in advance..

    17. 05-03-2006 11:48 PM #17
      does it turn off when you take your keys out? and is it monsoon?

      red wire is not power. did you hook it up yourself? yellow wire is power, red is switch. it could be your monsoon amp stays on because your cd player thinks it is on if you have your wires switched.


    18. 05-04-2006 08:48 AM #18
      Yes it has the monsoon system. I removed the in dash cassete player to install the cd player. So anyways when i turn off the car the radio cuts off. I still have power to my windows and sunroof as long as i dont open the doors. I also can't turn on the radio once key is out like you can when the factory head unit is in. But... When I remove the face plate of the cd player I can hear a sound from the cd player that sounds like it wants to power up, but it doesnt. Its only for a few seconds though. I was just wondering if there was something I connected wrong or if I was missing something in installing an aftermarket radio in this car.

      I did hook it up myself. Dont recall on the wires. I used the plug that hooks up to your factory plug. So I just followed the instructions. 'll check the wires. How would I check to see if amp is staying on which wire is it.


    19. 05-04-2006 10:08 AM #19
      yeah i think the factory amp doesnt have any lights on it. the important wires to check are your red and yellow wires. yellow is constant power, and red is switched. it sounds to me like if there is anything wrong with your audio system, you have them switched, or you have something with the power wire to your amp switched.

    20. 05-04-2006 12:14 PM #20
      When I get home I'll check the wires. Last night I put the factory head unit back in. If the radio is the problem it should stop doing this. What I dont understand though is that if it was the radio or amp staying on. Wouldn't the car be dead on a daily basis? This problem I'm having is at random. Ill return later after I check wires. Thanks

    21. 05-04-2006 12:27 PM #21
      i might just take it awhile. this is all just if the radio has anything to do with your problem. if you replaced a battery, then the alt, then another battery, i just dont know what it could be if it isnt the radio.

    22. 05-04-2006 05:06 PM #22
      Checked wires and yellow and red are not switched. The only confusion is 2 blue wires that the instructions for the plug say not to connect with my year car. which say that one is the (blue) is for power atenna and (blue/white) amp remote. So now what.

      will check amp though.


    23. 11-04-2009 06:22 PM #23
      Quote, originally posted by chico1gg »
      When I get home I'll check the wires. Last night I put the factory head unit back in. If the radio is the problem it should stop doing this. What I dont understand though is that if it was the radio or amp staying on. Wouldn't the car be dead on a daily basis? This problem I'm having is at random. Ill return later after I check wires. Thanks

      I had the same problem, turned out to be a problem with the power door locks. Apparently they were locking & unlocking whilst I was away from the car, slowly draining the battery. I only has the dead battery if I hadn't driven the car for a couple of days.


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