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    Thread: Time to clean the engine bay...N112/N249 removal, DV reroute.

    1. Member skydaman's Avatar
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      03-07-2006 08:15 AM #1
      I've been thinking of cleaning up my engine bay over the last week. So I ordered a Moroso 1.25" filler neck and radiator cap from jegs. Last night I picked up a couple feet of vacuum line, hose clamps, and a small K&N w/ 1" inlet from the auto parts store.

      I removed the metal plate around the dipstick that holds the N112, N249 valves, sai hoses, along with a rats nest of vacuum lines. I did find that the line going from the N112 to Combi valve was dry rotted anyways. I also removed the formed metal lines that ran to the vacuum canister and factory diverter valve.

      I rerouted the diverter valve vacuum line to the short hose that goes to a check valve off the throttle body. I used the factory T fitting that was under the metal plate. I left the N249 & N112 valves plugged in but nothing connected to them for today to try it out, so far so good.

      I was a little worried how cold starts would be without the N112 this morning. All is good no check engine lights, diverter valve response is excellant, way better than before with way less flutter, cold start idle was improved and more stable, seemed to settle down to normal idle quicker.

      I cut the sai hose that used to go all the way over to the factory air box and it now has a K&N filer on it right behind the alternator.
      Filler neck should come in tomorrow and will have pics of that project as well. The SAI pump and Combi valve are next to go!
      I will get some pics up soon, it was dark out when I was finishing up and I needed some


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      03-07-2006 10:16 AM #2
      Hey, tell me about your water neck. Is this going to eliminate the overflow bottle or what?

      I did the same thing as you, removing all the junk you mentioned. I also relocated some other stuff behind the fender and rerouted some lines through the rain tray area to help clean things up. Removed the AC and relocated the battery too, for other reasons. It looks better, but it's amazing how far I have to go still. There is just so much 'stuff' on these engines!


    3. Member skydaman's Avatar
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      03-07-2006 10:24 AM #3
      Yes the filler neck will eliminate the reservoir and associated lines and it was only $23. I also took out the battery box and have a smaller battery mounted there with the fuse box on top now mounted behind the battery and I made an intake to get rid of the factory airbox.

      When you removed yours did you keep the valves plugged in or did you remove them? Im going to check what codes I get with and without them later today.

      Wow you removed the A/C thats hardcore.


      Modified by skydaman at 7:34 AM 3-7-2006


    4. 03-07-2006 12:06 PM #4
      Quote, originally posted by skydaman »
      Yes the filler neck will eliminate the reservoir and associated lines and it was only $23. I also took out the battery box and have a smaller battery mounted there with the fuse box on top now mounted behind the battery and I made an intake to get rid of the factory airbox. .

      did you drop any sockets into the deep depths of your engine and have an amazing person retrieve it for you with his bare hands?

      haha post up some pics cus i wanna clean up the bay also!!!


    5. Member Rac_337's Avatar
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      03-07-2006 12:21 PM #5
      when you did this did you have to take off the intake mani?

      i have a tt mani and it was a pain in the ass just to remove the 249 (becuase the tb on tt mani is on the oppisite side)

      also did you remvoe anything to get those metal vac lines out?


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      03-07-2006 01:09 PM #6
      Quote, originally posted by skydaman »

      When you removed yours did you keep the valves plugged in or did you remove them? Im going to check what codes I get with and without them later today.

      Modified by skydaman at 7:34 AM 3-7-2006

      I removed them, gone. Any unused source lines I just capped at the mani. Forgot to mention I also removed the air pump and combi valve, used a fabricated aluminum plate in place of the combi valve.


    7. Member skydaman's Avatar
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      03-07-2006 01:55 PM #7
      Quote, originally posted by kevinGTI02 »

      did you drop any sockets into the deep depths of your engine and have an amazing person retrieve it for you with his bare hands?

      haha post up some pics cus i wanna clean up the bay also!!!

      Haha, no I was quite cautious this time. I will throw some pics up soon, Im still stuck at work. We can clean yours up in no time!


    8. Member skydaman's Avatar
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      03-07-2006 01:57 PM #8
      Quote, originally posted by Rac_337 »
      when you did this did you have to take off the intake mani?

      i have a tt mani and it was a pain in the ass just to remove the 249 (becuase the tb on tt mani is on the oppisite side)

      also did you remvoe anything to get those metal vac lines out?

      Nope did not have to take off the intake mani. I did have to take off the rubber hose that plugs in the drivers side but that was easy. Once you have all the vacuum lines off and unbolt the 1 bolt holding it on it slides out. It is a pain to get that metal plate off and get to the underside to unhook the valves!


    9. Member skydaman's Avatar
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      03-07-2006 05:51 PM #9
      Quote, originally posted by RabbitsKin »
      I removed them, gone. Any unused source lines I just capped at the mani. Forgot to mention I also removed the air pump and combi valve, used a fabricated aluminum plate in place of the combi valve.

      Did you get any error codes or a check engine light when you did this?

      I removed N112 & N249 and received codes:
      P1432-Manufacturer Control Auxiliary emission controls
      P1287-Manufacturer Control Fuel Air metering

      Plugged them back in and they are gone. So I'm wondering if I unplug the air pump will I get another code? Did you just take a piece of aluminum about the same size and drill holes for the bolts and reuse the gasket to block off the Combi-valve? While I was messing around it looks like my combi-valve is leaking because there is a oily mess at the base of it, even more reason to kiss it goodbye!

      edit: Doh, the coolant line totally blocks the bolts that hold in the combi, argh adds to the project. Oh well I was planning on draining the coolant to do the filler neck this week anyways so no biggie.

      Heres some pics, I know its dirty but Im working on it. The zip ties are temporary until I get the wires to the sensors and tuck them away somewhere.







      Modified by skydaman at 2:54 PM 3-7-2006


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      03-08-2006 11:11 AM #10
      Quote, originally posted by skydaman »
      Did you get any error codes or a check engine light when you did this?

      I removed N112 & N249 and received codes:
      P1432-Manufacturer Control Auxiliary emission controls
      P1287-Manufacturer Control Fuel Air metering

      Plugged them back in and they are gone. So I'm wondering if I unplug the air pump will I get another code? Did you just take a piece of aluminum about the same size and drill holes for the bolts and reuse the gasket to block off the Combi-valve? While I was messing around it looks like my combi-valve is leaking because there is a oily mess at the base of it, even more reason to kiss it goodbye!

      edit: Doh, the coolant line totally blocks the bolts that hold in the combi, argh adds to the project. Oh well I was planning on draining the coolant to do the filler neck this week anyways so no biggie.

      Heres some pics, I know its dirty but Im working on it. The zip ties are temporary until I get the wires to the sensors and tuck them away somewhere.

      I get a check engine light, yes, i'm one of those people who just pays no attention to the CEL. I didn't have a vag-com to check the codes, so I don't know which mod(s) was responsible. For the combi valve, I traced the shape and had a local shop make one out of 3/8" aluminum plate. I used RTV for the gasket, and it has been leak-free.

      At one point I had kept all the junk I removed from the engine in a pile; it was truly amazing to look at just how much stuff there was. Good riddance.


    11. Member skydaman's Avatar
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      03-08-2006 02:10 PM #11
      Quote, originally posted by RabbitsKin »
      I get a check engine light, yes, i'm one of those people who just pays no attention to the CEL. I didn't have a vag-com to check the codes, so I don't know which mod(s) was responsible. For the combi valve, I traced the shape and had a local shop make one out of 3/8" aluminum plate. I used RTV for the gasket, and it has been leak-free.
      At one point I had kept all the junk I removed from the engine in a pile; it was truly amazing to look at just how much stuff there was. Good riddance.

      I like to have a clean dash with no lights on, so thats my pet peeve. I bought a piece of aluminum I'm going to trace out and cut. It is quite impressive the amount of crap you can take out of the engine bay.


    12. Member evilpat's Avatar
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      03-08-2006 05:51 PM #12
      you can replace the N249 with a resistor. I have had it like that for about 20K miles with no codes! In fact I might have the parts to make up another one with a pigtail to plug right in, I would have to double check though . . . Same thing should work for the N112 but I am not sure if the resistor require is different.

    13. Member skydaman's Avatar
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      03-08-2006 05:53 PM #13
      Quote, originally posted by evilpat »
      you can replace the N249 with a resistor. I have had it like that for about 20K miles with no codes! In fact I might have the parts to make up another one with a pigtail to plug right in, I would have to double check though . . . Same thing should work for the N112 but I am not sure if the resistor require is different.

      That would be awesome, do you know the resistor value or can I give you a few $$ for your spares.


    14. Member evilpat's Avatar
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      03-08-2006 06:18 PM #14
      I have anll the info at my house. Pretty sure it was 30ohms but you need a lot of wattage or you will burn them out! I found some beeffy resistors I think at like 50 watts with an alum body. If I don't have a spare I can telly ou how to get them.

    15. Member skydaman's Avatar
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      03-08-2006 06:44 PM #15
      awesome thanks!

    16. Member evilpat's Avatar
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      03-09-2006 11:26 AM #16
      This is what you need . . .

      30 Ohm 50 Watt resistor

      Unfortunately it appears I already sold all of the extras I had. 30ohm 50 watt resistors made by Huntington Electric can be ordered at http://www.digi-key.com for $5, PN is TMC50-30-ND.

      Spec -->> here


    17. Member skydaman's Avatar
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      03-09-2006 12:04 PM #17
      Awesome, thanks just placed an order!

    18. Member evilpat's Avatar
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      03-09-2006 01:18 PM #18
      I have used it with the N249 valve for a while but never used it with the N112. consult a bentley and see what the resistance is of the N112 valve.

    19. Member skydaman's Avatar
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      03-09-2006 06:36 PM #19
      Quote, originally posted by Crzypdilly »
      Holy zip ties!!!

      Actually theres only 4.


    20. Member chaugner's Avatar
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      03-09-2006 08:48 PM #20
      Quote, originally posted by evilpat »
      I have used it with the N249 valve for a while but never used it with the N112. consult a bentley and see what the resistance is of the N112 valve.

      anyone know if the same can be used for the N112?


    21. Member evilpat's Avatar
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      03-09-2006 08:58 PM #21
      someone in another thread said yes.

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2489226


    22. Banned not euro's Avatar
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      03-09-2006 09:08 PM #22

      my version of a cleaned out stg3 engine bay

      cleaned interior too




      Modified by not euro at 6:10 PM 3-9-2006


    23. Member T-Boy's Avatar
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      03-09-2006 09:22 PM #23
      Quote, originally posted by not euro »

      my version of a cleaned out stg3 engine bay

      cleaned interior too


      Modified by not euro at 6:10 PM 3-9-2006

      Yeah, but i don't know how many of us is as hard core as you Tim.

      APR Stage 3071R+

    24. Member skydaman's Avatar
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      03-09-2006 09:33 PM #24
      Quote, originally posted by not euro »

      my version of a cleaned out stg3 engine bay

      cleaned interior too


      Modified by not euro at 6:10 PM 3-9-2006

      Well I bet its faster being a bit lighter but how do you deal with it looking like that inside?
      Are you running a filter right off the turbo with no MAF?
      Nice intake mani is that the USRT? Did you dyno it before and after?
      Is that giggle gas for the intercooler or are you actually spraying on a stg 3 kit? If so are you on stock internals?
      Wheres your battery?

      All that and you still have the coolant reservoir?

      Wow and I just noticed you dont even have any wiper blades...no doubt your version is intense!!


    25. Banned not euro's Avatar
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      03-09-2006 09:41 PM #25
      Quote, originally posted by skydaman »

      Well I bet its faster being a bit lighter but how do you deal with it looking like that inside? pretty much got used to it
      Are you running a filter right off the turbo with no MAF? yeah just a screened inlet
      Nice intake mani is that the USRT? Did you dyno it before and after? custom one i made, and i only dyno'd with it not immediately prior
      Is that giggle gas for the intercooler or are you actually spraying on a stg 3 kit?yes i was50/75/100 shot at differnt times til it exploded
      If so are you on stock internals?yes i was
      Wheres your battery?i had a small odyssey battery mounted under the frame rail where the oem used to be. pretty much the best place to put it imo.

      All that and you still have the coolant reservoir? i never got around to, or felt i needed to remove it.

      Wow and I just noticed you dont even have any wiper blades...no doubt your version is intense!!got pretty intresting on rainy road trips





      Modified by not euro at 6:43 PM 3-9-2006

    26. Member skydaman's Avatar
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      03-10-2006 06:08 AM #26
      Quote, originally posted by not euro »
      Modified by not euro at 6:43 PM 3-9-2006

      Well that engine bay looks good. And you made your own intake mani, thats hot!! What did you dyno?


    27. Banned not euro's Avatar
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      03-10-2006 08:49 AM #27
      317 on 104 oct.

      325 on a 30 shot and pump gas file.

      never dyno'd on race gas and spray.


    28. Member skydaman's Avatar
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      03-10-2006 10:28 AM #28
      Nice numbers I got 310 on 104 octane probably a bit more now that I have a 3" catback.

      Edit: Are you running on the normal STG 3 APR programming? What did you do with the N75 and DV with just running the screen?


      Modified by skydaman at 9:42 AM 3-10-2006


    29. Member skydaman's Avatar
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      03-14-2006 07:43 PM #29
      Ok, I got my resistors in and they seem to work fine, no codes with them in. However the resistor for the N249 gets HOT! The N112 resistor doesnt even get warm. Is this normal?
      thanks

    30. Member skydaman's Avatar
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      03-15-2006 02:51 PM #30
      Well I got bored at work old vacuum diagram:

      The new diagram, not quite finished yet:


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