Nice, I have actually been looking for a writeup on this method. I agree, the stock airbox is a pita to deal with when you just need to get to the MAF.
Despite the fact that I got ****faced last night, and woke up drunk this morning at 6:40am to go to a scrap yard to look for parts in a snow storm/bloody cold weather, I still somehow managed to get this done, so its pretty easy. I think the hardest part was trying to understand the advanced mechanics of zipties in my retarded state of mind.
First the schematic I came up with for the project:
Thanks to whomever picture that was.
Regular tools, cutters, screwdrivers, etc.
Zip ties, couple of em. I think I used about 5 or 6.
K&N filter with a 1" inlet. I used part no. 62-1410. $22.90
K&N Filter with a 70mm/2.75" opening. Part no. RU1520. - $55.00
I think this is the largest filter that would fit, being 7".
1. Take out the entire air box. Unplug what ever lines you can that run around the airbox because they just get in the way. Find the 1" hose that runs to the sec. air injection pump, and remove the top flat plastic piece, pull it, pry it with a screw driver, it will come off but its a bit of a *****. Install the small air filter in its place. Tight fit, but it'll go in. Push it near the headlamp, and out of the way.
2. Take out the MAF from inside the airbox, and install the lower half of the box back in the car. Insert the MAF into the filter, and connect to main air duct. Dont tighten anything yet, make sure it fits first. Once it does take it out.
3. Remove the heat shield from the top half of the airbox, and fit it back to where it normally sits between the cat and the intake. At this point its good to have someone near you who knows how to use zip ties, or it could get difficult. (Thanks Art ). The shield has 4 holes, zip tie the bottom two holes to the hoses near each. Front hole will probably need two zip ties, this proved to be a pretty difficult concept for my hungover ass, but somehow I got it. For the top holes, re-attach the line that is mounted to the holes by using a nut and bolt on the front hole, and a zip tie on the rear. Dont need to do it this way, just get the shield in there so it doesnt move, what I did made sense at the time so I'll stick with it. No play what so ever, and it gets the job done.
4. Once the heat shield is secure, install the filter in place. It take a bit of moving it around to get everything to sit properly, but once it does its in there with out any play, so I didnt do anything else to secure the filter.
5. Re-attach everything, and youre done.
This really should not take too long, even though I spent a better half of the afternoon doing it. Sorry no IAT/MAF flow before and after logs because today I just didnt care, I was doing it anyways, car sounds much deeper now, and yes its got the BOV sound too, although not as loud as my GTI with an AEM CAI. Maybe I'll do a CAPS run tomorrow, but really the car doesnt feel any different, I did this for easy access to the MAF and because I hated working with the OEM box.
i did this last weekend, i bout a tenzo air filter for 20 dollars from a local performance shop and bought heat shield material for 5 at home depot.
total intake cost 25.00
total retail intake cost 250-350
cost saved 225-325 dollars
Do you need to put the lower half of the airbox back in? i want to do this mod but i want to put a u-bend and and a smaller air filter on the end of the MAF. what is the point to putting it back in? is it for airflow, or maybe wires that connect down there somewhere? I just got my car and havent dug into it yet.
i read an article on the wall at eip tuning and it was a test and they made an intake go to a filter then put the whole filter under water to prove that the water will not get far enough to ure engine and the test was a success and the water never got far enough to get to the engine.. soo i wouldnt be worried about the water
I left the bottom half in there so I can use the oem ducting to draw in fresh air, and it also keeps everything nice and stable. Ther is no need to fabricate a bracket for the filter, and the shield is nice and tight, but definitly not necessary.
SomkeU, dont expect much from this, and it shouldnt cause any problems, it wont get any wetter than the OEM one did.
On a side note, I unplugged the MAF and so far no crazy timing pull...gonna see how it runs for a week.
Quote, originally posted by SmokeU » thanks a lot guys...
after the diverter valve and this intake mod what should be my next project?
Modified by SmokeU at 4:00 PM 3-19-2006
after i put this and my forge 007 DV in i got the Awe-tuning A-pillar boost guage which is sick as hell.. looks soo tight at night time... right now im workin on polishing my manifold and cleaning up the engine more
Quote, originally posted by :Stever-Strike: » after i put this and my forge 007 DV in i got the Awe-tuning A-pillar boost guage which is sick as hell.. looks soo tight at night time... right now im workin on polishing my manifold and cleaning up the engine more
I took the entire airbox out cuz I put in a U tube. I only have one filter no smaller one. I kow a lot of peopel think using an open filter is bad for many reasons but I have had no problems in the last 3 years of having one. Yes you can hear the engine and the turbo better with this on.
I just did this mod today actually after reading about other people doing it, there really isnt that much added hp or what not, but your turbo and bov are much louder, and you can hear the intake sucking air. I also noticed, its much more fuel efficient than running a stock air box . It only took me about 20min to do, most of the time was trying to figure a way to get the airbox out with all the wiring around it. Question, did anyones engine light go on from unplugging the intake manifold sensor?
I just did this mod this morning. Was easy and clean looking. I didn't use
K & N filters, I used Autozone Spectre 3" Chrome Cone filter # 246353 ($24.99) and Spectre Breather # 228293 ($11.99) and these are stock filters, they are just like K & N and use K & N's oil and cleaner. Thanks for this mod and everything else on this site.
I bought both filters and then heat shield from Blinktek.
It sounds simply awesome with the addition of Labree HFC I installed last week.
However i cannot find the 1" hose to the sec air injection pump.
Does a 1999 AEB even have one?
Quote, originally posted by 19michael78 » I didn't use K & N filters, I used Autozone Spectre 3" Chrome Cone filter # 246353 ($24.99) and Spectre Breather # 228293 ($11.99)
So just the k&n look-alike from autozone? How's that working out for you?
I used one in a pinch a one point and it was terrible. The mesh around the filter element couldn't stand up to the engine bay. Replaced it with an AEM dryflow with much better results.
That's not unlike the Colorado Airbox mod the passat b5 kids love... they run 2 or 3 hoses out of the bottom of the stock airbox to that same area.
Is it having any impact on the temp of the air coming into the engine? Can you block it off and data log then log again with it open to see?