Ok, i Started diving into the LSD install yesterday. The 02M is head and shoulders above the O2J. The shift linkage, and brass shift forks are much nicer. The gears are larger in diameter and wider. This is a much higher quality box.
Getting into the install is easier with the O2m as well. You dont have to pull off 5th gear, and the selector shaft comes out real easy. 3 bolts and its out.
Pull the rest of the bolts out of the case and you can open it up.
I was having big problems splitting the case though. O2J the upper part just comes off and the gearstacks stay in the bell housing side. On the O2m everything wanted to come off with the upper part of the tranny. Was perplexed at first, and then had a sore back after wrenching the thing off with the gearsets.
When I pulled it off everything but the diff came with it.
Check out the shift fork. i was able to remove 1 output shaft, 2 shift forks, and the reverse gear shaft.
The input shaft and 1 ouput shaft will not come out. I am convinced that the input shaft is somehow snap ringed in there, but I dont want to damage the rubber cover to get at it. Ill do the rest of the work with these parts still installed.
While working on this, I stepped on something soft, and proceeded to dance around like a little girl. Here is my helper snake that I found in the basement. About 3 feet long when I stretched him out. I was going to chop his head off with a shovel, but i tossed him in the woods instead.
After the brief interlude it was back to work.
Drilled the rivets on my 30 yr old drill press
Sheared them off with a chisel
When I got the gear off, i cleaned it and put it in the toaster over at 250 F for 10 minutes, and installed it on the new diff. Then used my 99$ made in china leprechaun sized 12 ton press to put in the new bolts.
With the wheel bearings, bushings, and diff installs this press had paid for itself 3X. You absolutely need to use a press, because it takes 4 hours to hammer them in, and they never go in far enough just using the torque specs.
Torqued them all up, and finished.
now onto the bearings. I learned a long time ago that heat is way better than brute force. Heated up the case with a heat gun.
I got the races out. both were shimmed frrm the factory with health ~.030 shims. I installed the races and 1 shim. Put it together, and checked the play. Ive got ~ .008" of play, I need to make a better fixture for my dial indicators to get a more acurate reading, but some shimming is def needed.
now again, can you guys help me out?
I need some torque #'s and preload specs, along with part#'s.
Im going to use some O2J #'s if no one can help a man out.
Modified by enginerd at 12:05 PM 4-9-2006