Hi there. I posted here, about a month ago, questions about replacing the clutch.
With help of some fellow member and a good DIY write up. I decided to do the task myself.
The DIY above, while helpful, was hard to follow since it didn’t have any pictures. So I took the time to take some pictures (I lost some pics, therefore some of the pics included here had been taken afterwards). And decided to give back to this awesome community (well… sometimes a bit harsh) but overall great community. Here it is.
Note 1: The pics are now in photobucket and flickr, which are more reliable than my own server. If there are issues write me ( tonatiuhm AAT sbcglobal DOTT net ) and let me know. I'll try to put them up asap.
Anyways click here to go to the flickr album where they are also located. Just in case.
Disclaimer: If you decide to do this procedure, then do so at your own risk. The writer (myself) doesn’t hold liability in any form, explicit or implied. Some of the procedure had been improvised due to the lack of proper tools, please be cautious.
18mm, 16mm, 13mm, 10mm (12pt) sockets
16mm box wrench
M8, M10 triplesquare AKA internal wrench socket or bits
Extensions, long and short.
wire hangers about 4. (To put stuff out of the way, and more)
about 4 jackstands
One or two jacks
Note 2: Torque specs had been noted in each step where bolt removal is needed. This is intended for the reassembly steps; disregard the torque specs while disassembling.
Triple square bits, a total MUST for this job (Don't even try to substitute them with hex or similar, you WILL strip your bolts) $12 at autozone.
First you are going to need to remove the battery assembly including the support. And you’ll need to remove the airbox too. I’ll skip these step since there are several DIY already written about it.
Once you have made room by removing the battery and intake, we can start with this.
1. Unclip hydraulic hose (Yellow Arrow) (it drives pressure to the slave cylinder, to disengage the clutch). Then remove the bolts attaching the bracket (Red Arrows) (16mm) (18 ft-lb). And undo the heat-protective bag that encloses the speed sensor harness (Blue Arrow).
Remove the reverse light harness
2. Remove circlip by sliding it out (Red Arrow), DO NOT LOSE IT. Place it in a Ziploc bag. Then remove the nut (Blue Arrow) (13mm) (18 ft-lb), you’ll need an extension for this. Move linkages out of the way and secure with wires.
3. Remove clutch slave cylinder (SC) (Red Arrows)(13mm) (18 ft-lb). I think the bolts are T35, but 13mm will work just fine. Carefully lift the rear part of the SC (Yellow Arrow). Be really careful when removing the SC, it’s plastic and it could break. DO NOT DEPRESS CLUTCH PEDAL WHILE SC IS OUT (says the Bentley, better listen).
4. Remove ground strap nut, and bolt (Red Arrow). (13mm,18mm)(59 ft-lb). Remove also wiring retaining bracket from starter (not pictured, sorry)
5. Lift The Car as high as you can. Remember to use jack stands and to lock the rear wheels with blocks of wood or similar.
6. Remove both front wheels.
7. Remove the wheel well lining plastic. (About 10x T27).
8. Remove the center lower panel(4xT27). And driver’s side lower panel pictured (yank it down uniformly, Red Arrows)
9. Now we will proceed to separate the Constant Velocity (CV) joints from the Diff-Tranny assembly. Have somebody to step on the brakes while you do this, OR lock the CV from turning by placing a screwdriver like shown between the vents of the brake disc. (Wheel should be out, picture taken afterwards. You get the idea where to put the screwdriver.)
10. Remove the CV joint bolts (6xM8)(52 ft-lb) Use bit M8, AKA triplesquare or internal wrench. Bentley suggests that this bolt must be replaced. You’ll need 12, they go for about $2.00 at the stealership.
11. Before to remove the CV joint bolts from the passenger side, you’ll need to remove a heat shield that protects the boot from the exhaust. See pic (2x13mm) (26ft-lb). Then remove the CV joint as you did before with the driver's side.
12. Jack up the engine by placing the jack just below the oil pan as close to the driver’s side as possible. Lift it slowly just a bit, just to take pressure off the engine mounts. It’s not the best way to do it, but the oil pan would be just fine a long as you don’t yank it or anything. Be careful.
The Bentley suggest to use support bar 10-222A, with adaptor 10-222A/3, which mainly is a bar that hangs across the engine bay supported on the frame of the car, from where you can hang the engine.
13. Remove the pendulum support AKA dog bone, from underneath the tranny. (2x16mm 15ft-lb + ¼ turn, 2x18mm 30ft-lb + ¼ turn) (pic is coming)
14. Remove the hydraulic (Power Steering) line that is supported at the starter and a t the end of the transmission. Move out the way.
15. Remove the starter. (2x18mm) (59 ft-lb). You'll need extension.
16. Remove bolts at the driver’s side engine mount (Red Arrows) (2x18mm) (74 ft-lb, no preload). Remove bolts at the support (Yellow and Blue Arrows) (18ft-lb)
17. Lower the whole engine-transmission assembly, slowly until you have clearance to these bolts (see pic). Remove the bolts (3x16mm) (37 ft-lb + ¼ turn)
18. Now you must place a jack stand supporting the engine at the bottom of the oil pan instead of the jack, and place this jack at the bottom of the tranny.
19. Remove all the remaining bolts holding the tranny and engine together.
On the Front 4 total: 2x16mm (30ft-lb) at the front (one is Blue Arrow, the other one not pictured). 2x18mm (59ft-lb) at the front too( Red and Yellow Arrows)
On the back 2 bolts: 2x16mm (30ft-lb) next to the CV at the passenger side.
(EDIT: cederrowe recommended to remove the CV flange by removing the hex bolt in the center of the flange as seen below. I didn't do it, however, I see that it could be of GREAT help when clearing the flywheel at removal (step 21 below) Careful though: word on the street is that you will drain tranny fluid if you remove the flange. I'm not sure though. Still even with the mess it could be beneficial since wiggling that tranny out to clear the flywheel could be VERY difficult, but possible nonetheless.)
20. At this point you NEED a jack underneath the tranny and one jackstand underneath the engine. Tap the tranny out with a mallet or carefully with a hammer.
21. Here comes the really hard part. You’ll need to wiggle your way out to get the tranny out. The hardest point is at the flywheel and the passenger CV (see pic above). In my experience, you’ll need to raise a bit the tranny and swing it towards the firewall. Then pull it towards the driver’s side and lower it slowly. Be patient… and take breaks.
22. Take the pressure plate out. (6x12 point 10mm.) (10 ft-lb)
23. Take the flywheel off. (10xM10) The bolts are really tight (44 ft-lb +1/4 turn). So to get them out you’ll need to lock the engine from cranking, otherwise the whole thing will turn as you attempt to get the bolts out. Bentley suggests to use special tool 3406 for engines AFP(12vVR6) and tool T10069 for engines BDF(24vVR6). Or 3067. Well I couldn’t get a hold of this tool, so again I had to improvise. Use two hanger wires (like the ones the give you at the dry-cleaners) and tie the flywheel at the pins as shown. Then proceed to take the bolts out.
Now is time for reassembly
24. Put the new flywheel on. It will only fit in one way. One of the wholes is at a different distance from the center; find it and match it. (44 ft-lb +1/4 turn) ADJUST DIAGONALLY, MUST REPLACE BOLTS. Need 10 about $3.5 at the stealer.
Hopefully you can see how one is offset relate to the others.
Look at that... isn't she pretty compared to the ruined one!
25. Center the clutch disc with an alignment tool. I used a deep socket.
26. While holding the centering tool put the pressure plate on, and ADJUST DIAGONALLY (10 ft-lb). You’ll need to lock the engine again, so get a hold of those wire hangers again.
27. Take the clutch release lever out from the inside of the bellhousing. It’s hold by a spring-clip. Remove the old throw-out bearing and replace it with the new one you got with the kit.
28. Apply “molly” grease to the shaft and where the bearing slides.
29. To replace the lever into the housing, put the spring-clip onto the lever, and then press the lever into place.
30. Proceed to put the tranny back into place. And follow the procedure in reverse order. Torque specs had been posted for each bolt when the respective step was explained.
I hope you'll enjoy it. This is just a thanks to you all, it was time for ME to take the time and write somthing for the forum.
Modified by Tlan at 1:09 PM 8-25-2008
Modified by Tlan at 1:11 PM 8-25-2008
Modified by Tlan at 1:15 PM 8-25-2008
Modified by Tlan at 1:16 PM 8-25-2008
Modified by Tlan at 1:18 PM 8-25-2008
Modified by Tlan at 1:25 PM 8-25-2008
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Modified by Tlan at 1:29 PM 8-25-2008
Modified by Tlan at 12:33 PM 8-28-2008