DIY: VR6 12v Transmission Removal, Clutch and Flywheel replacement. with PICS

[Tlan]

Hi there. I posted here, about a month ago, questions about replacing the clutch.
With help of some fellow member and a good DIY write up. I decided to do the task myself.
The DIY above, while helpful, was hard to follow since it didn’t have any pictures. So I took the time to take some pictures (I lost some pics, therefore some of the pics included here had been taken afterwards). And decided to give back to this awesome community (well… sometimes a bit harsh) but overall great community. Here it is.

Note 1: The pics are now in photobucket and flickr, which are more reliable than my own server. If there are issues write me ( tonatiuhm AAT sbcglobal DOTT net ) and let me know. I'll try to put them up asap.

Anyways click here to go to the flickr album where they are also located. Just in case.

Disclaimer: If you decide to do this procedure, then do so at your own risk. The writer (myself) doesn’t hold liability in any form, explicit or implied. Some of the procedure had been improvised due to the lack of proper tools, please be cautious.

Tools:
18mm, 16mm, 13mm, 10mm (12pt) sockets
16mm box wrench
M8, M10 triplesquare AKA internal wrench socket or bits
Extensions, long and short.
Pliers
wire hangers about 4. (To put stuff out of the way, and more)
about 4 jackstands
One or two jacks

Note 2: Torque specs had been noted in each step where bolt removal is needed. This is intended for the reassembly steps; disregard the torque specs while disassembling.

Triple square bits, a total MUST for this job (Don't even try to substitute them with hex or similar, you WILL strip your bolts) $12 at autozone.

First you are going to need to remove the battery assembly including the support. And you’ll need to remove the airbox too. I’ll skip these step since there are several DIY already written about it.
like:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2559013
http://www.neuspeed.com/data/installs/65.10.76.pdf

Once you have made room by removing the battery and intake, we can start with this.

1. Unclip hydraulic hose (Yellow Arrow) (it drives pressure to the slave cylinder, to disengage the clutch). Then remove the bolts attaching the bracket (Red Arrows) (16mm) (18 ft-lb). And undo the heat-protective bag that encloses the speed sensor harness (Blue Arrow).

Remove the reverse light harness

2. Remove circlip by sliding it out (Red Arrow), DO NOT LOSE IT. Place it in a Ziploc bag. Then remove the nut (Blue Arrow) (13mm) (18 ft-lb), you’ll need an extension for this. Move linkages out of the way and secure with wires.

3. Remove clutch slave cylinder (SC) (Red Arrows)(13mm) (18 ft-lb). I think the bolts are T35, but 13mm will work just fine. Carefully lift the rear part of the SC (Yellow Arrow). Be really careful when removing the SC, it’s plastic and it could break. DO NOT DEPRESS CLUTCH PEDAL WHILE SC IS OUT (says the Bentley, better listen).

4. Remove ground strap nut, and bolt (Red Arrow). (13mm,18mm)(59 ft-lb). Remove also wiring retaining bracket from starter (not pictured, sorry)

5. Lift The Car as high as you can. Remember to use jack stands and to lock the rear wheels with blocks of wood or similar.

6. Remove both front wheels.

7. Remove the wheel well lining plastic. (About 10x T27).

8. Remove the center lower panel(4xT27). And driver’s side lower panel pictured (yank it down uniformly, Red Arrows)

9. Now we will proceed to separate the Constant Velocity (CV) joints from the Diff-Tranny assembly. Have somebody to step on the brakes while you do this, OR lock the CV from turning by placing a screwdriver like shown between the vents of the brake disc. (Wheel should be out, picture taken afterwards. You get the idea where to put the screwdriver.)

10. Remove the CV joint bolts (6xM8)(52 ft-lb) Use bit M8, AKA triplesquare or internal wrench. Bentley suggests that this bolt must be replaced. You’ll need 12, they go for about $2.00 at the stealership.

11. Before to remove the CV joint bolts from the passenger side, you’ll need to remove a heat shield that protects the boot from the exhaust. See pic (2x13mm) (26ft-lb). Then remove the CV joint as you did before with the driver's side.

12. Jack up the engine by placing the jack just below the oil pan as close to the driver’s side as possible. Lift it slowly just a bit, just to take pressure off the engine mounts. It’s not the best way to do it, but the oil pan would be just fine a long as you don’t yank it or anything. Be careful.

The Bentley suggest to use support bar 10-222A, with adaptor 10-222A/3, which mainly is a bar that hangs across the engine bay supported on the frame of the car, from where you can hang the engine.

13. Remove the pendulum support AKA dog bone, from underneath the tranny. (2x16mm 15ft-lb + ¼ turn, 2x18mm 30ft-lb + ¼ turn) (pic is coming)

14. Remove the hydraulic (Power Steering) line that is supported at the starter and a t the end of the transmission. Move out the way.

15. Remove the starter. (2x18mm) (59 ft-lb). You'll need extension.

16. Remove bolts at the driver’s side engine mount (Red Arrows) (2x18mm) (74 ft-lb, no preload). Remove bolts at the support (Yellow and Blue Arrows) (18ft-lb)

17. Lower the whole engine-transmission assembly, slowly until you have clearance to these bolts (see pic). Remove the bolts (3x16mm) (37 ft-lb + ¼ turn)

18. Now you must place a jack stand supporting the engine at the bottom of the oil pan instead of the jack, and place this jack at the bottom of the tranny.

19. Remove all the remaining bolts holding the tranny and engine together.

On the Front 4 total: 2x16mm (30ft-lb) at the front (one is Blue Arrow, the other one not pictured). 2x18mm (59ft-lb) at the front too( Red and Yellow Arrows)

On the back 2 bolts: 2x16mm (30ft-lb) next to the CV at the passenger side.

(EDIT: cederrowe recommended to remove the CV flange by removing the hex bolt in the center of the flange as seen below. I didn't do it, however, I see that it could be of GREAT help when clearing the flywheel at removal (step 21 below) Careful though: word on the street is that you will drain tranny fluid if you remove the flange. I'm not sure though. Still even with the mess it could be beneficial since wiggling that tranny out to clear the flywheel could be VERY difficult, but possible nonetheless.)

20. At this point you NEED a jack underneath the tranny and one jackstand underneath the engine. Tap the tranny out with a mallet or carefully with a hammer.

21. Here comes the really hard part. You’ll need to wiggle your way out to get the tranny out. The hardest point is at the flywheel and the passenger CV (see pic above). In my experience, you’ll need to raise a bit the tranny and swing it towards the firewall. Then pull it towards the driver’s side and lower it slowly. Be patient… and take breaks.

22. Take the pressure plate out. (6x12 point 10mm.) (10 ft-lb)

23. Take the flywheel off. (10xM10) The bolts are really tight (44 ft-lb +1/4 turn). So to get them out you’ll need to lock the engine from cranking, otherwise the whole thing will turn as you attempt to get the bolts out. Bentley suggests to use special tool 3406 for engines AFP(12vVR6) and tool T10069 for engines BDF(24vVR6). Or 3067. Well I couldn’t get a hold of this tool, so again I had to improvise. Use two hanger wires (like the ones the give you at the dry-cleaners) and tie the flywheel at the pins as shown. Then proceed to take the bolts out.
...nasty uhhh

Now is time for reassembly

24. Put the new flywheel on. It will only fit in one way. One of the wholes is at a different distance from the center; find it and match it. (44 ft-lb +1/4 turn) ADJUST DIAGONALLY, MUST REPLACE BOLTS. Need 10 about $3.5 at the stealer.
Hopefully you can see how one is offset relate to the others.

Look at that... isn't she pretty compared to the ruined one!

25. Center the clutch disc with an alignment tool. I used a deep socket.

26. While holding the centering tool put the pressure plate on, and ADJUST DIAGONALLY (10 ft-lb). You’ll need to lock the engine again, so get a hold of those wire hangers again.

27. Take the clutch release lever out from the inside of the bellhousing. It’s hold by a spring-clip. Remove the old throw-out bearing and replace it with the new one you got with the kit.

28. Apply “molly” grease to the shaft and where the bearing slides.

29. To replace the lever into the housing, put the spring-clip onto the lever, and then press the lever into place.

30. Proceed to put the tranny back into place. And follow the procedure in reverse order. Torque specs had been posted for each bolt when the respective step was explained.

I hope you'll enjoy it. This is just a thanks to you all, it was time for ME to take the time and write somthing for the forum.

Modified by Tlan at 1:09 PM 8-25-2008

Modified by Tlan at 1:11 PM 8-25-2008

Modified by Tlan at 1:15 PM 8-25-2008

Modified by Tlan at 1:16 PM 8-25-2008

Modified by Tlan at 1:18 PM 8-25-2008

Modified by Tlan at 1:25 PM 8-25-2008

Modified by Tlan at 1:27 PM 8-25-2008

Modified by Tlan at 1:29 PM 8-25-2008


Modified by Tlan at 12:33 PM 8-28-2008

[ItDiesToday]

Really informative...good stuff.

[camflan]

kickass, thanks man

[Tlan]

Thanks... good night bump!

[Tlan]

lunch bump, pics are up again.

[kep0ne]

This shoul dbe added to the FAQ...bump

[pukinganteater7]

how much different is this for a 4 cyl gls

[Tlan]

if your transmission is manual, not much difference... I mean, for example, the flywheel will have less bolts (6 I believe). But overall you'll have to follow the same steps.

[Tlan]

midnite bump!

[Tlan]

morning bump!!... add to FAQ please.

[Tlan]

Well... last bump! Before it gets buried in the vortex's achives!!...I guess you guys didn't like it that much.

[b5000r]

what happened to you flywheel?

[VDUB Modder]

wooow that what im going to be doing soon too

[Tlan]

Quote, originally posted by b5000r »

what happened to you flywheel?

The clutch was sliding really bad until lost any grip at all. I believe that with the friction and the rubbing the whole thing got really hot, and liquified the grease on the shaft, which burnt onto the flywheel. That stuff was hard as steel... anyways thas just a theory.


Modified by Tlan at 3:57 PM 5-17-2006

[kelspar]

28. Apply “molly” grease to the shaft and where the bearing slides.

What is molly grease?

[Pifiu]

wow great writeup!!!

[dcall7]

wow i might actually try this then, if i can do a turbo kit i should be okay with a clutch based on this write up.

can u further explain the process of centering the clutch with the deep socket? thanks

[2002GTI]

Quote, originally posted by kelspar »

28. Apply “molly” grease to the shaft and where the bearing slides. What is molly grease?

You can pick it up at Autozone Coastal Moly EP Grease $2.59

[VgRt6]

Quote, originally posted by dcall7 »

can u further explain the process of centering the clutch with the deep socket? thanks

It's cake. After you put the clutch disk and pressure plate on (don't fully tighten the pressure plate bolts yet), slide the socket through the hole in the clutch disk and into the hole in the crank flange. This centers the clutch disk with the crank. Tighten the pressure plate bolts and then remove the socket. Done.

[2002GTI]

Quote, originally posted by VgRt6 »

It's cake. After you put the clutch disk and pressure plate on (don't fully tighten the pressure plate bolts yet), slide the socket through the hole in the clutch disk and into the hole in the crank flange. This centers the clutch disk with the crank. Tighten the pressure plate bolts and then remove the socket. Done.

I used a go kart pedal

[VgRt6]

I'm going to try it next time with a frozen banana.

[Tlan]

Pics are up again !!... sorry for the delay.

[ryan_siefring23]

CV botls don't need to be repaced they are not torque to yeald. The botls in step 16 do however need to be replaced.

[strawberrie_storm]

Hello,
I need to replace the clutch disc, pressure plate, and throw-out bearing in my 2001 gls vr6 jetta. I was wondering with your DIY how much of that could i do since it says clutch and flywheel. I was told i shouldn't have to replace the flywheel. If thats the case at what point in your DIY should i skip steps so i dont remove it. I would appreciate any help you can give me since, unfortunatly, i am not too car savvy. Being that I am only 17 I don't have too much money to go spend to have it done. I'm lucky that right now I can afford the pieces that I need. Again thank you for whatever help you can spare.

[FaelinGL]

The flywheel is just an extra step that you only do if your going to remove the lower timing chain cover. While you are in there, you *really* should do timing chains.

Mike

[frag85]

might have missed it, but time estimate?

[hunter1]

Great stuff. thanks

[LoydKrissmas]

Great Great Great, long needed DIY. A buddy of mine and I did it by ear one day. This could have been extremely useful.

[Tlan]

Sorry for the slow reply... I hope it helps somebody still. If the flywheel is still good, just skip steps 23 and 24 above. I reused the same flywheel, just had a machine shop resurfaced it. Not recommended if you have the money for a new one... but most of them can be resurfaced.

[Tlan]

Between taking pics and running to the store for more tools, it took about 3 days, whole weekend.... But if I had to do it again, I'd probably could do it in 6 hours.
I'm sure the DIYs now available, including this one, will help a lot to give you an idea of the job. But this a major car job, I wouldn't recommend it for newbie folks... try to start small... oil changes, brake pads, serpentine belt, etc....

[GTI drvr]

I hope someone reads this asap. This weekend i had the bolts to my engine mount snap off inside the mount so i need to replace the part that connects to the transmission and the mount. If you look above at the picture under step 16 I need the part that connects to the mount. The bolts with the red arrows broke off in the piece below it. I need to know the name of the part that the support bar connects to (where the yellow arrow is) someone help me if you can

[cederrowe]

Ya the bolts to the mount broke of in my tranny also.

IMPORTANT after two hours with three people who have done manny front wheel drive clutches trying to get the passenger output flange to clear the flywheel. Don't do it this way!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Remove the 6mm allen key in the center of the passenger output flange. Then pull the flange out. This wil allow the tranny to come out, without the flange hitting the flywheel.

With my car this was a nesecity to remove the tranny no other way around it!

[Tlan]

Quote, originally posted by cederrowe »

IMPORTANT after two hours with three people who have done manny front wheel drive clutches trying to get the passenger output flange to clear the flywheel. Don't do it this way!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Remove the 6mm allen key in the center of the passenger output flange. Then pull the flange out. This wil allow the tranny to come out, without the flange hitting the flywheel.

Hmmm... I can see the benefit. I added this suggestion to the second pic in step 19 above. Thanks.

[dimsum]

Guys, I have heard that when you remove this passenger output flange that you drain the manual transmission fluid, is this correct?

[Tlan]

Quote, originally posted by dimsum »

Guys, I have heard that when you remove this passenger output flange that you drain the manual transmission fluid, is this correct?

Interesting... I didn't remove it so I can't answer that.... maybe cederrowe above, he said he did remove it.