Quote, originally posted by redbora » my fuse keeps burning out, any ideas
where's the fuse coming from? Which wire? And between what?
this guide looks great, but just need a definitive answer, since nater's and misael's guide is different in the numbers:
correct me if this is wrong:
30 - relay to ballast (15 amp inline fuse)
85 - ground
86 - relay to "switched hot lead" (30 amp fuse?)
87 - relay to battery + (30 amp fuse?)
thanks in advance for the help guys. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
Originally Posted by Senor Pelligro
Quote, originally posted by A2B4guy » That is wrong.
85 and 86 are normally interchangable and don't matter unless you have a relay with a suppression diode, but just to be consisitent we'll say:
86: trigger input from switch, or wire that normally goes to the load.
30: battery (+) connection with suitable gauge wire and fuse capacity to safely operate the load
87: output going to the load on a suitable gauge wire
85 and 86 can be 18 gauge wire, or whatever the exisitng wire is. The voltage between them simply energizes the relay, which only takes about 150 milliamps of current.
When the circuit is ON, the path of electrical current in the load is:
from Battery (+) > FUSE > pin 30 > pin 87 > load (lamp or ballast) > GROUND > Battery (-)
You must have the fuse for the overall power draw in the wire from the battery. If the load is actually 2 loads in parallel, you may optionally choose to fuse each output branch individually at half of the main fuse value.
so 86 would be the wire that i would hook to up to the ballast, and do i need a fuse in line on that wire? then 87 would be the wire i hook up to the switched power for the headlights? im learning this electrical stuff little by little here so if i seem dumb sorry
Originally Posted by Senor Pelligro
Quote, originally posted by kurtanglevr6 » this guide looks great, but just need a definitive answer, since nater's and misael's guide is different in the numbers:
I had a typo in that DIY (sortof) and that's why it differs...I believe I fixed it and changed the thread????? Did I not?
Either way, click on the link - not on what I cut and pasted into this thread. I fixed the link.
I owned a 05 Jeep GC Limited with autohead headlight and recently converted OEM lights to HID lights and also purchased a HID relay wiring harness from Mobile HID. Installed the relay package and apparently, my head light now is permanently ON/ACTIVE when auto headlight enable or driver manual activate during vehicle engine is running. The light will not turn off auto/manual until the vehicle engine is completely off, at time it will take a minute before the HID goes to off stage. Is this normal? The installation and polarity are all correctly installed according to your's and vendor's websites.
I installed my hids and followed all of the steps. When i finished i turned my car on and the relay was making a buzzing noise and it was vibrating. The lights are also flickering. What did I do wrong? I have a 06 Passat and need to fix this or I can't drive. Some one help!!!
Modified by volkswagen04 at 4:23 PM 9-12-2009
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this writeup answered ALOT of questions
thank you kind sir
just for the record, what both dennisgli and nater are saying is correct (and a2b4guy also).
(1) there is absolutely NO reason to put two fuses in series. this doesn't make any sense electrically at all...it actually adds more failure points to the system. and you want your fuse in-line as the first component from the battery to protect every other component downstream.
(2) and it is 'best' to use two different power lines (including 2 fuses), one for each headlamp (if passing through 2 relays). why do you think the OEM system has 2 fuses like this?
...yes, you could carry an extra relay, but that will do you no good if the single fuse blows. in this case you need extra fuses too.
you can certainly use one line for power and carry extra fuses and relays, but this doesn't do you much good if something decides to go bad while you're driving in the middle of the night with no ambient lights and have to be able to see to pull over, as you will lose both lights at the same time. this approach would fail any safety assessment.
not that i think mine is any better than dennis's or nater's or a2b4's, but here is an additional writeup on all the reasoning behind the setups and diagrams for the setups discussed...and it's magically stickied in the FAQ at the top of this forum for easy reference (amazing how people fail to use the most readily available sources of information)
HID specific with diagrams