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    Thread: DIY - Vac Leak Test - Find Vacuum Leaks

    1. Banned dubinsincuwereindiapers's Avatar
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      04-11-2010 03:34 PM #51
      Quote, originally posted by McBee »
      I use zip ties (or squeeze clamps) on all my vac lines. More equal clamping and less likely to tear up your vac lines over time.
      Really??? never had any issues with them?? I didnt think they would hold well enough

    2. 04-11-2010 04:00 PM #52
      Quote, originally posted by dubinsincuwereindiapers »
      Really??? never had any issues with them?? I didnt think they would hold well enough

      Yep. The small worm clamps I have laying around have drive screws on them that are longer or close to the same length as the diameter of the vac hose. This ends up pinching more than equally clamping. And I find worm clamps will chew into the rubber hoses over a period of time. Boost gauge, FPR, N112, DV, etc are all secured using zip ties. Haven't had a problem.
      Road Farmin'

    3. 04-11-2010 07:23 PM #53
      did this DIY yesterday, and it worked amazing, pushed air through the entire system. only thing is that i heard the air in the dog can more than my leaks, how did you isolate the leak noises?

    4. Member zeusenergy's Avatar
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      04-12-2010 06:33 AM #54
      I also use zip ties (quality ones) here and there. I've even used large ones for CV boots on my old tacoma that got beat on every weekend with no issues. Rocks, mud, sand, etc never budged the zip tie. And I had spares in the truck in case it did. The original clamp failed offroading one day and I never went back. Zip ties can be amazingly helpful.
      I have VCDS and located in New England, PM me!

      Four 1980 Audi 5000s gas and diesel, 1987 & 1988 VW Fox, 1980 VW Mk1 Scirocco, 1987 Audi 5000 TQ, 1988 Audi 5000 Q, 2001 VW New Beetle Sport 1.8t, 2011 VW Jetta MK6 TDI/DSG




    5. Member zeusenergy's Avatar
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      04-12-2010 06:35 AM #55
      Spray soapy water on the lines and look for bubbles. You will really have to get creative for the hidden lines, using a mirror. Espeically check all the connections, that's usually where the leaks begin.
      I have VCDS and located in New England, PM me!

      Four 1980 Audi 5000s gas and diesel, 1987 & 1988 VW Fox, 1980 VW Mk1 Scirocco, 1987 Audi 5000 TQ, 1988 Audi 5000 Q, 2001 VW New Beetle Sport 1.8t, 2011 VW Jetta MK6 TDI/DSG




    6. 04-12-2010 04:46 PM #56
      will do. have a boost leak bad enough to stall out my car now i think. an error code came up for my impulse sender for a day then disappeared the day after, so im thinking there is a few monster leaks that my noob ears just cant pinpoint :-/ thanks for the advice!

    7. Member zeusenergy's Avatar
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      04-13-2010 08:28 AM #57
      If its that bad, take the passenger front tire off and look at the intercooler connections around the pancake, and the charge pipe to hose connection further behind the motor is prone to fail as well. It clips in....
      I have VCDS and located in New England, PM me!

      Four 1980 Audi 5000s gas and diesel, 1987 & 1988 VW Fox, 1980 VW Mk1 Scirocco, 1987 Audi 5000 TQ, 1988 Audi 5000 Q, 2001 VW New Beetle Sport 1.8t, 2011 VW Jetta MK6 TDI/DSG




    8. Member theswoleguy's Avatar
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      04-13-2010 10:19 AM #58
      wow i didnt even know this was still going... sorry it doesnt show up in my watched list lol. glad everyone can benefit from it still.
      If you have a lot of leaks obviously you wont pressurize the system enough luckily i wasnt using a bike pump so my air compressor compensated by adjusting the line pressure knob which should start pointing out leaks pretty quick. Also as mentioned a spray bottle with some water and kitchen soap does wonders.
      For small tiny lines i also use zip ties. Bigger lines i use fuel line clamps (i like these more so then worm gears)
      For the one time use clamps... tin snips i just cut them off, i gave up on the screw driver approach a long time ago.
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    9. 01-10-2011 12:10 AM #59
      Sorry for being a noob and resurrecting threads, but could someone point out which PVC line should be clamped? I picture would be highly appreciated

    10. Member elio's Avatar
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      03-21-2011 11:54 PM #60
      Quote Originally Posted by aadosx View Post
      Ok well I just tried this and have some questions.
      First of all, it took me a few trips to some hardware stores to get the stuff.. there wasn't a nut that fit on the air compressor fitting in the hardware isle.. I ended up having to find some weird hose fittings.

      Also while doing it.. the thing did pop off once and scared the sh*t out of me! It flew right past my face too.. man I'm lucky.
      Anyways, I've found a few leaks so far: where the brake booster connects to the side of the intake manifold; a cap I have on an intake manifold port, under the intake mani, that some old PCV stuff was originally connected to; the FPR line is leaking at the FPR; and also a small hose branching off of the TIP was leaking.
      Now that I have all of those fixed though.. I am still hearing a lot of noise coming from behind the engine, near the turbo... but I cannot find/feel a leak to save my life! Is it possible that it's just air running through all of those lines back there?
      Another thing: Whenever I would pressurize my system, i would hear a gulping noise (gulp gulp gulp gulp) coming from in the engine. WTF is that??
      Thanks!
      JohnP.S. Two of my leaks were due to some vacuum system caps that I bought from auto-zone or the like that had just dry rotted. These things are less than a year old.. why do they rot out so fast? I don't want to have to replace them constantly just to not have leaks.. any suggestions?
      Hi John you have explained very well my case. So the "gulp gulp gulp" sound is air entering the PCV system. But I had pluged when it port at TIP when I do the test, is that normal? I have a catch can too. Also I notice a big "pssssssttttttt" low pitched noise behind the engine, turbo, DV or N75 area, do you think that the metal TIP part that goes into the turbo inlet or it associated hose can leak that way? or what else in that area could be? it leak more or less 1psi/sec. Also I test up to 5psi max I don't want to go further after check it. Then friends and theswoleguy I appreciatte your advice.
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      03-22-2011 01:22 PM #61
      excellent work here.

    12. Member elio's Avatar
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      04-04-2011 11:01 PM #62
      Quote Originally Posted by elio View Post
      Hi John you have explained very well my case. So the "gulp gulp gulp" sound is air entering the PCV system. But I had pluged when it port at TIP when I do the test, is that normal? I have a catch can too. Also I notice a big "pssssssttttttt" low pitched noise behind the engine, turbo, DV or N75 area, do you think that the metal TIP part that goes into the turbo inlet or it associated hose can leak that way? or what else in that area could be? it leak more or less 1psi/sec. Also I test up to 5psi max I don't want to go further after check it. Then friends and theswoleguy I appreciatte your advice.
      Friends I repeat the leak test with a big plug at end of hose that go from intercooler to throttle body. That way I don't find any sound at all, I can reach 10psi easily, and it loose pressure something like 0,25psi/sec maybe less. The only sound that remains there was the little "gulp gulp gulp" one, but having block the TB inlet hose, I doubt that this sound could be PCV related. What do you think?????
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    13. Member VENT0GT's Avatar
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      05-02-2011 03:08 PM #63
      bump for a great diy!

    14. 06-30-2011 06:35 AM #64
      would a vac leak cause a jump in the or drop in the engine speed when you are speeding up? My GTi seems to lung some times at low speeds/rpm's but the idle is fine. It's almost like a water in the gas feal. any one have any idea's

    15. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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      06-30-2011 07:09 AM #65
      Last edited by groggory; 06-30-2011 at 07:12 AM.
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    16. Member bskurk24's Avatar
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      08-23-2011 06:35 PM #66
      goin to try this asap, i need to fix my carr

    17. 08-25-2011 10:26 AM #67
      so even if you remove and cap off the hockey puck aka ufo you still will get the gulp gulp gulp sound?

    18. Member dubluv2003's Avatar
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      09-28-2011 09:10 AM #68
      This has been added to my favorites.
      Instagram: @NINEFOOTERS

    19. Member 972SLOW's Avatar
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      10-10-2011 01:58 PM #69
      bump

      gulp gulp issue: just to clerify for you people the reason your still getting this noise with your pcv lines blocked is because the check valve under the intake manifold (in your pcv line) is shot. Cheap simple fix and you wont have that noise anymore as well as one less leak in the system.
      Quote Originally Posted by Chaoz View Post
      Psh speak for yourself whips and blacks are no longer friends.. **** whipped creme even makes me quiver

    20. 10-11-2011 08:38 AM #70
      Is #6 the check valve you are referring to?


    21. Member 972SLOW's Avatar
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      1978 SUBURBAN LIFTED WITH 35 BOGGERS AND A BUILT 350, JEEP, BUICK, low mileage 337
      10-11-2011 10:00 AM #71
      indeed it is. If replacing it though you might want to order the hose from 034 as chances are high that you will brake the stock one. http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-...t-p-19986.html
      Quote Originally Posted by Chaoz View Post
      Psh speak for yourself whips and blacks are no longer friends.. **** whipped creme even makes me quiver

    22. Member
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      10-24-2011 12:46 PM #72
      +1 for the HVAC guy thats what i am going to school for haha

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      11-17-2011 03:20 PM #73
      bump

    24. Member
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      11-17-2011 04:26 PM #74
      Quote Originally Posted by eurosportbora View Post
      Is #6 the check valve you are referring to?

      Would you happen to have this same picture and part numbers for a 225Q BEA engine?

    25. Banned dubinsincuwereindiapers's Avatar
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      04-07-2012 05:11 PM #75
      Up for the n00b's

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