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    Thread: DIY - Vac Leak Test - Find Vacuum Leaks

    1. Member 972SLOW's Avatar
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      10-11-2011 10:00 AM #71
      indeed it is. If replacing it though you might want to order the hose from 034 as chances are high that you will brake the stock one. http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-...t-p-19986.html
      Quote Originally Posted by Chaoz View Post
      Psh speak for yourself whips and blacks are no longer friends.. **** whipped creme even makes me quiver

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      10-24-2011 12:46 PM #72
      +1 for the HVAC guy thats what i am going to school for haha

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      11-17-2011 03:20 PM #73
      bump

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      11-17-2011 04:26 PM #74
      Quote Originally Posted by eurosportbora View Post
      Is #6 the check valve you are referring to?

      Would you happen to have this same picture and part numbers for a 225Q BEA engine?

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      04-07-2012 05:11 PM #75
      Up for the n00b's

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      04-08-2012 05:42 PM #77
      Quote Originally Posted by dubinsincuwereindiapers View Post

    8. Member rains's Avatar
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      04-20-2012 12:59 AM #78
      not sure if I've posted in this thread before, but thanks again!

      After installing my FMIC, and being terrible unimpressed with my performance, and wondering what the hell the whistling was when I hit 18 PSI, this thread has solved all my problems.

      Cheers!
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      This thread is now about car cakes.
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    9. 05-25-2012 12:24 PM #79
      Not sure if anyone has ever made note of this, but you MUST visually inspect and wiggle the brake booster line to check for leaks!

      It has a check valve which I beleive prevents the pressure from entering any lines after the valve.

      Someone correct me of I'm wrong.
      2003 Jetta 1.8T, APR Stage II ECU Upgrade, Forge 007 DV, 3" DP + 2.5" CB, Neuspeed Cone Filter, Silicone TIP, Forge TB Hose, FMIC, Snow Performance Stage II MAF actuated dual nozzle Water/Methanol Injection, NewSouth PowerGasket, 2.0TFSI igntion coils w/ IE adapters, Denso IK22 Iridium plugs @ .040", Ultimate N249/SAI/PCV/EVAP delete,catch can, ECS Stage II clutch w/ lightweight flywheel Need VCDS in Hampton Roads VA? PM me!

    10. 05-26-2012 06:45 PM #80
      when I remove my pcv valve from the TIP, and put a plug in the hole and pressurize the system, I still get gurgling.

      I guess the check valve in the pcv line is bad, but where is it and how do I access it?
      2003 Jetta 1.8T, APR Stage II ECU Upgrade, Forge 007 DV, 3" DP + 2.5" CB, Neuspeed Cone Filter, Silicone TIP, Forge TB Hose, FMIC, Snow Performance Stage II MAF actuated dual nozzle Water/Methanol Injection, NewSouth PowerGasket, 2.0TFSI igntion coils w/ IE adapters, Denso IK22 Iridium plugs @ .040", Ultimate N249/SAI/PCV/EVAP delete,catch can, ECS Stage II clutch w/ lightweight flywheel Need VCDS in Hampton Roads VA? PM me!

    11. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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      05-26-2012 07:37 PM #81
      Quote Originally Posted by matty675 View Post
      when I remove my pcv valve from the TIP, and put a plug in the hole and pressurize the system, I still get gurgling.

      I guess the check valve in the pcv line is bad, but where is it and how do I access it?
      There's a y-hose coming off the block breather. So, it's down under the intake mani
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    12. 08-07-2012 07:30 AM #82
      Quote Originally Posted by matty675 View Post
      when I remove my pcv valve from the TIP, and put a plug in the hole and pressurize the system, I still get gurgling.

      I guess the check valve in the pcv line is bad, but where is it and how do I access it?
      I even get the "gurgling" with a new PCV valve, any ideas what could it be?

    13. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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      08-07-2012 11:53 AM #83
      Quote Originally Posted by geslo View Post
      I even get the "gurgling" with a new PCV valve, any ideas what could it be?
      You have to clamp off the pcv hose when you do the test
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      08-23-2012 05:16 AM #84
      need to ask....TIP = turbo intake pipe??
      thanks!

      Quote Originally Posted by theswoleguy View Post
      I posted this in the Golf/Jetta Forum as well bc some of them dont venture to the 1.8T side of things. So hopefully this may help some of you.

      Well basically I have been having troubles with the dub... Back n forth to dealers, various people checking it out, all in all erratic idles, and occasional lean codes. Well we all know most likely a vac leak. So i finally got tired of it and figured out a way to go about and attempt to solve my problems. I tried everything i knew n heard of about vac leaks from fogging with a flammable substance to just oldschool grab n wiggle. Well this is what i came up with. For a more permant solution go to HD or Lowes and get 2.5 Conduit pipe and find a PVC pipe cap that will slide in and pipe glue it together) Also i recommend not pressurizing the MAF like i did just go around it, remove it and go on the TIP.

      I have since changed the below requirements to a PVC pipe and plug cap for a more suitable solution. I have made three sizes, 1.8t, TT/VR6 and one for my Truck

      Materials:
      1 Drill
      2 Drill Bits (1 as pilot hole, 2nd size of Air Fitting)
      1 dogfood or soup can (clean and roughly the size of the MAF)
      1 Transition coupler (Most of us have intakes so there you go)
      1 Air hose fitting
      1 Nut to thread on Air hose fitting
      2 rubber washers
      3" Thread tape
      1 Air compressor / Bike pump
      X feet of Air line to reach from pump to MAF

      Directions

      1. Take the can and drill a hole in it on the bottom. Now take and smooth the rough edges flat, wash the can to dispose of any left over shavings (becareful can might be sharp)


      2.Now place rubber washer on air fitting, thread tape the fitting and screw it into the bottom of the can. Take the nut and the other rubber. Place the rubber washer on the inside of the can on the Air Fitting Threads. Now tighten down.

      3. Now place the transition coupler over the can, tighten hose clamp. Now take the can w/ coupler and attach to the MAF or if you removed the MAF (recommended) Place it in the TIP and Tighten clamp.

      4. Most Aircompressors have two guages. One for the Tank pressure and the other for line pressure.

      5.Turn the line pressure down to zero if the tank is already full. If its empty turn it all the way down and go ahead and start charging the compressor.

      6.Now attach air hose to the can with the fitting. By now your tank should have some air in it. Turn it to about 10-15psi (Most AC gauges go about 15lbs as their lowest reading, so by now hopefully you have a Boost Gauge in car) go check your gauge. At about 10-15lbs you should hear your leaks i heard mine at 10.

      7. Find/Found Vac Leaks Decompress, fix problem, Refill fix other problems if you have more then one leak, decompress and fill again till no leaks are found... PLEASE make sure you decompress before you attempt to fix a line or you could poke your eye out kid... This is what i came up with.

      Well i hope this helps atleast a little. At 20lbs the PCV tends to blow oil into the intake and the oil cap tends to leak air also so try not to go that high... Im sure there is a way to cap the PCV side so not to recirc some oil (As if the car was running) back into the intake runner. As it does for emmision purposes. My car idles awesome again, starts great now, runs great, boost excellant, and pulls 19" of vac at idle and 21 on decel now.

      Also as always: I nor VWVortex take any responsibilities for injuries to yourself, dub, or bystands wondering why the **** your giving your car a *******.




      Modified by theswoleguy at 9:33 AM 11-22-2006


    15. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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      08-23-2012 11:37 AM #85
      Quote Originally Posted by gchaifoux View Post
      need to ask....TIP = turbo intake pipe??
      thanks!
      Yes

      The FAQ has a great list of abbreviations too
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    16. Member
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      08-23-2012 11:54 AM #86
      thanks man!

      Quote Originally Posted by groggory View Post
      Yes

      The FAQ has a great list of abbreviations too

    17. Member
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      08-29-2012 08:40 AM #87
      Successfully ran the pressure test.

      couple of questions;

      1. the only leak I was able to locate was the hose connected to the top of the diverter valve which I will seal with a small clamp today. I found it by way of spraying the soapy water around and notice the large bubble growing on the top of the DVV.

      2. I turned the pressure up to around 10lbs....didn't want to push it to high being my 1st time doing this. I heard a hissss and noticed a little motor oil seeping out from the edges of the top of the oil filler cap. ?? is this ok...given the pressure? or should that cap be 100% sealed under pressure?

      side from those to small items, I didn't detect any leaks anywhere else....

      your thoughts? / suggestions are welcome....

      next up is replacing the N75 ( as the car will not hold turbo boost) and coil packs (car is idling and running rough)

    18. 09-14-2012 10:13 PM #88
      Quote Originally Posted by gchaifoux View Post
      Successfully ran the pressure test.

      couple of questions;

      1. the only leak I was able to locate was the hose connected to the top of the diverter valve which I will seal with a small clamp today. I found it by way of spraying the soapy water around and notice the large bubble growing on the top of the DVV.

      2. I turned the pressure up to around 10lbs....didn't want to push it to high being my 1st time doing this. I heard a hissss and noticed a little motor oil seeping out from the edges of the top of the oil filler cap. ?? is this ok...given the pressure? or should that cap be 100% sealed under pressure?

      side from those to small items, I didn't detect any leaks anywhere else....

      your thoughts? / suggestions are welcome....

      next up is replacing the N75 ( as the car will not hold turbo boost) and coil packs (car is idling and running rough)
      clamp off the pcv hose for the pressure test. you dont want let the air goes into the crankcase

    19. Member
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      09-17-2012 08:58 AM #89
      thanks, will be doing this as well.

      Quote Originally Posted by jogtx16v View Post
      clamp off the pcv hose for the pressure test. you dont want let the air goes into the crankcase

    20. Member DMVDUB's Avatar
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      10-21-2012 04:12 PM #90
      Decent little video by Eric the car guy on how to find a vac leak. I think many people could benefit from watching his videos, They cover many, many things we talk about here.

      Here's the video
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    21. Member dubluv2003's Avatar
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      01-14-2013 02:49 PM #91
      Would it be ideal to perform this test after draining oil for an oil change? This way no oil can circulate into the system?
      Im not a ricer. Im lo mein.

    22. Member theswoleguy's Avatar
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      09-16-2013 04:17 PM #92
      still using this years later lol...just upgraded the CAN to PVC. Used it on the ecoboost yesterday


      Found the leak
      Project GTi-R:. '04 R32 Chassis w/ 1.8t transplant in the werks
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    23. 09-16-2013 04:52 PM #93
      Haha..You have no idea how many times I have posted this link for people..lol
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    24. Member pGLi's Avatar
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      12-07-2013 11:39 PM #94
      bump to subscribe and bring this to the top... looks like an extremely helpful DIY that i can't wait to do in a few weeks
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    25. 12-08-2013 09:51 AM #95
      Quote Originally Posted by Twopnt016v View Post
      Haha..You have no idea how many times I have posted this link for people..lol
      X2

      I stress the importance of this to everyone I deal with
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    26. Member theswoleguy's Avatar
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      12-10-2013 04:10 PM #96
      lol hi guys
      Project GTi-R:. '04 R32 Chassis w/ 1.8t transplant in the werks
      '01 Audi TTQ Roadster: QED motor, Pag 35R vband, spec twin, enormous amount of go fast
      '03 GTI: Gutted, Parted & Transplanted
      '04 F250 6.0: 72mm turbo, 60 psi stupid fast for 8k lbs, sold to ejg3855
      '13 F150 Ecoboost: Ordered, Rec'd, Triple Black, Tow Truck for other Vehicles.

    27. 12-11-2013 06:59 AM #97
      Hi - and thanks!

      Tin Can + Schrader valve + Wine cork + your writeup = helps me A LOT



      Remove airbox/maf housing.
      Insert Tin can with schrader valve into tip and tighten clamp.
      loosen clamp and Pull PRV out of tip.
      insert wine cork + tighten clamp back down
      Remove oil cap.
      Turn compressor up to 20 psi or so
      Fill 'er up and keep an eye on boost gauge
      spray soapy water
      fix leaks

      drive it!

    28. Member theswoleguy's Avatar
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      12-29-2013 07:11 PM #98
      Lol glad to help

      Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
      Project GTi-R:. '04 R32 Chassis w/ 1.8t transplant in the werks
      '01 Audi TTQ Roadster: QED motor, Pag 35R vband, spec twin, enormous amount of go fast
      '03 GTI: Gutted, Parted & Transplanted
      '04 F250 6.0: 72mm turbo, 60 psi stupid fast for 8k lbs, sold to ejg3855
      '13 F150 Ecoboost: Ordered, Rec'd, Triple Black, Tow Truck for other Vehicles.

    29. Member gitman's Avatar
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      01-28-2014 01:41 AM #99
      a little confused about some of the conflicting information here. i'll try to sum up what i've read...

      seems the general consensus is to plug the PCV port at the TIP. however some people still say they are getting the gurgling. one guy says this has to do with a check valve on the PCV line - but how could that be, if the PCV line has been disconnected from the TIP? someone followed up to say that they replaced the check valve and still got the gurgling sound.

      another poster says that the only other way air would be getting into the crankcase (besides via PCV) is if you have bad rings / valve guides / etc. so does that mean the folks with the blocked off PCV who are still getting the gurgling should probably also do a compression test? does it seem likely that these folks all have major issues like bad rings? i would seem to think not, so is there possibly another source for crankcase pressure to build up?

      also i don't think anyone definitively answered if the oil cap should leak? why would one have to remove it at all?
      2003 IY 20th Anniv 1.8T GTI #2545
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    30. Member Sycoticmynd29's Avatar
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      01-30-2014 10:55 AM #100
      Quote Originally Posted by gitman View Post
      a little confused about some of the conflicting information here. i'll try to sum up what i've read...

      seems the general consensus is to plug the PCV port at the TIP. however some people still say they are getting the gurgling. one guy says this has to do with a check valve on the PCV line - but how could that be, if the PCV line has been disconnected from the TIP? someone followed up to say that they replaced the check valve and still got the gurgling sound.

      another poster says that the only other way air would be getting into the crankcase (besides via PCV) is if you have bad rings / valve guides / etc. so does that mean the folks with the blocked off PCV who are still getting the gurgling should probably also do a compression test? does it seem likely that these folks all have major issues like bad rings? i would seem to think not, so is there possibly another source for crankcase pressure to build up?

      also i don't think anyone definitively answered if the oil cap should leak? why would one have to remove it at all?
      Might be hard to see, but there is another connection from the Intake Manifold to the PCV System:


      This line is the line with the PCV valve.

      The Line from the TIP has the PRV (Hockey Puck)

      So blocking the line from the TIP is only one of the connections to the PCV system, and if your PCV valve is bad, it is allowing air flow both directions.

      The question I have is if any of the people with the gurgling have checked for Oil in the intercooler.
      Eurofine
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    31. Member gitman's Avatar
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      01-30-2014 04:49 PM #101
      EDIT: OK i see what you mean. its the line coming off #19 that goes from the intake manifold to the main breather tube.
      Last edited by gitman; 01-30-2014 at 05:11 PM.
      2003 IY 20th Anniv 1.8T GTI #2545
      |forge 007 dv|techtonics tb+borla|apr 93|r32 ss|apr tip|aem filter|velocity stack|034 pcv kit|glass hl lenses|wg spring mod|
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      03-02-2014 11:27 AM #102
      Would there be any issues or differences in using this on a 2.0?

    33. 03-02-2014 12:21 PM #103
      I don't see why there would be.

      All engines are basically the same thing. Just a big pump.

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      03-02-2014 02:04 PM #104
      That's what I figured, I was just making sure no one knew of any compelling reasons not to use this method.

    35. 03-02-2014 02:33 PM #105
      This method is perfect for all engines; heck I use it in my Chevy truck


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