DIY - Vac Leak Test - Find Vacuum Leaks

[972SLOW]

indeed it is. If replacing it though you might want to order the hose from 034 as chances are high that you will brake the stock one. http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-...t-p-19986.html

[DUBEDVW]

+1 for the HVAC guy thats what i am going to school for haha

[deltaP]

bump

[deltaP]

Is #6 the check valve you are referring to?

Would you happen to have this same picture and part numbers for a 225Q BEA engine?

[dubinsincuwereindiapers]

Up for the n00b's

[dubinsincuwereindiapers]

[dubinsincuwereindiapers]

[rains]

not sure if I've posted in this thread before, but thanks again!

After installing my FMIC, and being terrible unimpressed with my performance, and wondering what the hell the whistling was when I hit 18 PSI, this thread has solved all my problems.

Cheers!

[matty675]

Not sure if anyone has ever made note of this, but you MUST visually inspect and wiggle the brake booster line to check for leaks!

It has a check valve which I beleive prevents the pressure from entering any lines after the valve.

Someone correct me of I'm wrong.

[matty675]

when I remove my pcv valve from the TIP, and put a plug in the hole and pressurize the system, I still get gurgling.

I guess the check valve in the pcv line is bad, but where is it and how do I access it?

[groggory]

when I remove my pcv valve from the TIP, and put a plug in the hole and pressurize the system, I still get gurgling.

I guess the check valve in the pcv line is bad, but where is it and how do I access it?

There's a y-hose coming off the block breather. So, it's down under the intake mani

[geslo]

when I remove my pcv valve from the TIP, and put a plug in the hole and pressurize the system, I still get gurgling.

I guess the check valve in the pcv line is bad, but where is it and how do I access it?

I even get the "gurgling" with a new PCV valve, any ideas what could it be?

[groggory]

I even get the "gurgling" with a new PCV valve, any ideas what could it be?

You have to clamp off the pcv hose when you do the test

[gchaifoux]

need to ask....TIP = turbo intake pipe??
thanks!

I posted this in the Golf/Jetta Forum as well bc some of them dont venture to the 1.8T side of things. So hopefully this may help some of you.

Well basically I have been having troubles with the dub... Back n forth to dealers, various people checking it out, all in all erratic idles, and occasional lean codes. Well we all know most likely a vac leak. So i finally got tired of it and figured out a way to go about and attempt to solve my problems. I tried everything i knew n heard of about vac leaks from fogging with a flammable substance to just oldschool grab n wiggle. Well this is what i came up with. For a more permant solution go to HD or Lowes and get 2.5 Conduit pipe and find a PVC pipe cap that will slide in and pipe glue it together) Also i recommend not pressurizing the MAF like i did just go around it, remove it and go on the TIP.

I have since changed the below requirements to a PVC pipe and plug cap for a more suitable solution. I have made three sizes, 1.8t, TT/VR6 and one for my Truck

Materials:
1 Drill
2 Drill Bits (1 as pilot hole, 2nd size of Air Fitting)
1 dogfood or soup can (clean and roughly the size of the MAF)
1 Transition coupler (Most of us have intakes so there you go)
1 Air hose fitting
1 Nut to thread on Air hose fitting
2 rubber washers
3" Thread tape
1 Air compressor / Bike pump
X feet of Air line to reach from pump to MAF

Directions

1. Take the can and drill a hole in it on the bottom. Now take and smooth the rough edges flat, wash the can to dispose of any left over shavings (becareful can might be sharp)

2.Now place rubber washer on air fitting, thread tape the fitting and screw it into the bottom of the can. Take the nut and the other rubber. Place the rubber washer on the inside of the can on the Air Fitting Threads. Now tighten down.

3. Now place the transition coupler over the can, tighten hose clamp. Now take the can w/ coupler and attach to the MAF or if you removed the MAF (recommended) Place it in the TIP and Tighten clamp.

4. Most Aircompressors have two guages. One for the Tank pressure and the other for line pressure.

5.Turn the line pressure down to zero if the tank is already full. If its empty turn it all the way down and go ahead and start charging the compressor.

6.Now attach air hose to the can with the fitting. By now your tank should have some air in it. Turn it to about 10-15psi (Most AC gauges go about 15lbs as their lowest reading, so by now hopefully you have a Boost Gauge in car) go check your gauge. At about 10-15lbs you should hear your leaks i heard mine at 10.

7. Find/Found Vac Leaks Decompress, fix problem, Refill fix other problems if you have more then one leak, decompress and fill again till no leaks are found... PLEASE make sure you decompress before you attempt to fix a line or you could poke your eye out kid... This is what i came up with.

Well i hope this helps atleast a little. At 20lbs the PCV tends to blow oil into the intake and the oil cap tends to leak air also so try not to go that high... Im sure there is a way to cap the PCV side so not to recirc some oil (As if the car was running) back into the intake runner. As it does for emmision purposes. My car idles awesome again, starts great now, runs great, boost excellant, and pulls 19" of vac at idle and 21 on decel now.

Also as always: I nor VWVortex take any responsibilities for injuries to yourself, dub, or bystands wondering why the **** your giving your car a *******.

Modified by theswoleguy at 9:33 AM 11-22-2006

[groggory]

need to ask....TIP = turbo intake pipe??
thanks!

Yes

The FAQ has a great list of abbreviations too

[gchaifoux]

thanks man!

Yes

The FAQ has a great list of abbreviations too

[gchaifoux]

Successfully ran the pressure test.

couple of questions;

1. the only leak I was able to locate was the hose connected to the top of the diverter valve which I will seal with a small clamp today. I found it by way of spraying the soapy water around and notice the large bubble growing on the top of the DVV.

2. I turned the pressure up to around 10lbs....didn't want to push it to high being my 1st time doing this. I heard a hissss and noticed a little motor oil seeping out from the edges of the top of the oil filler cap. ?? is this ok...given the pressure? or should that cap be 100% sealed under pressure?

side from those to small items, I didn't detect any leaks anywhere else....

your thoughts? / suggestions are welcome....

next up is replacing the N75 ( as the car will not hold turbo boost) and coil packs (car is idling and running rough)

[jogtx16v]

Successfully ran the pressure test.

couple of questions;

1. the only leak I was able to locate was the hose connected to the top of the diverter valve which I will seal with a small clamp today. I found it by way of spraying the soapy water around and notice the large bubble growing on the top of the DVV.

2. I turned the pressure up to around 10lbs....didn't want to push it to high being my 1st time doing this. I heard a hissss and noticed a little motor oil seeping out from the edges of the top of the oil filler cap. ?? is this ok...given the pressure? or should that cap be 100% sealed under pressure?

side from those to small items, I didn't detect any leaks anywhere else....

your thoughts? / suggestions are welcome....

next up is replacing the N75 ( as the car will not hold turbo boost) and coil packs (car is idling and running rough)

clamp off the pcv hose for the pressure test. you dont want let the air goes into the crankcase

[gchaifoux]

thanks, will be doing this as well.

clamp off the pcv hose for the pressure test. you dont want let the air goes into the crankcase

[DMVDUB]

Decent little video by Eric the car guy on how to find a vac leak. I think many people could benefit from watching his videos, They cover many, many things we talk about here.

Here's the video

[dubluv2003]

Would it be ideal to perform this test after draining oil for an oil change? This way no oil can circulate into the system?