My first real DIY! Woot! I hope it is good. Anyways, when I was looking for one of these, I came up with one for the MK4. It was great, and really helped direct me, but it left some things out and had some things confusing, so I figured we needed one for our cars. Here's a link to the DIY whose example I followed (always cite your sources) http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1722551 . This DIY is for a 2 liter w/o ABS, and involves removing the steering knuckle so that it can be brought somewhere, and the bearings pressed out and in. You will need an alignment after this. So, let's get started...
What you will need:
-Breaker Bar and/or Torque wrench (I used a breaker Bar)
-Sockets (13mm, 8mm, 19mm deep, 30mm deep)
-3" extender for sockets
-Phillips-Head Screw Driver
-Tierod End Remover
-Smaller flathead screwdriver
-Tire Iron/Lug bolt remover
-PB Blaster (liquid wrench or something else if you'd like is acceptable)
-Jack and Jack Stands
-If you have access to impact tools or an air gun, it will be a huge help
-OH, and, Wheel Bearing Kit! Can be purchased for $24.99 from autohausaz.com, or around $30 from GAP
Got everything? Let's start!
1) Using your flathead screwdriver, remove the cover in the center of your wheels to expose the hubcentric nut. This is the 30mm nut that will be a pain in the arse. You must loosen this nut, but do not remove it all the way. Here is where air tools or an impact gun would really help. If you don't have access to these, you can use your breaker/torque wrench. I actually went to a shop up the street and had them loosen the nuts for me.
2) Once you've got your nut loose, Jack up the car and support it with your jack stands. Now remove the lug bolts and the wheel. With the wheel off and out of the way, it's time to get to the real work.
3) The first thing to remove is your caliper and caliper bracket. Your caliper bracket is held on by two 17mm bolts behind the rotor. You should be able to remove the whole caliper and bracket assemly at once, but if you can't, you can remove the caliper itself by removing the 13mm bolts that hold the caliper in (found near the 17mm bolts) and removoving the caliper and brake pads.
4) DO NOT let the caliper hang by the brake line. Instead, using your twine or wire, suspend the caliper from the springs.
5) Remove the phillips head screw from the rotor. If your screw is rusted in, you may beed to put the screwdriver in place and tap it a couple times with your hammer. I ended up having to drill one of the screws out, but managed not to destroy the threads. Once the screw is out, remove the rotor (if your rotor feels a little rusted on, you can tap the inner edges on the back of it with the hammer lightly. This will help get it off).
6) Now remove the dust shield using your 8mm socket. There are two nuts that need to be removed, then it should come right off. Mine is a little bent and rusted from one bad night (don't ask)
7) Time to remove the Tierod End! First you will have to remove the 19mm nut on the bottom of the tie rod end. this nut can be on really tight, which is why we are doing this step first, with everything else still attatched. Once this nut is off, you will need your tierod end remover. Insert the wedge end inbetween the knuckle and the tierod end, and hammer the other end until the tierod end and the knuckle seperate. Mine were on really tight, so it took a while. [Note: it might be a good idea to put on new tierod ends. They are $18 each from GAP. Also, you should use this opportunity to check the stiffness of your inner tierods]
8) With the Tierod now disconnected, It's time to go after the three bolts on the bottom of your control arm. These 13mm bolts hold the ball joint to the control arm. You will want to remember how tight they were/how much they protruded from the control arm. One easy way to do this is to mark their position. Then go ahead and remove them. The control arm will now be seperated from the steering knuckle. You should now remove the Hubcentric nut that you loosesned at the beggining, and the washer underneath it.
9) Now Loosen the 19mm nuts and bolts holding the steering knuckle to the strut. You may have to hold the nuts in place while turning the bolts. this is where that 19mm wrench comes in handy. Once these nuts are loose, but not out, it is time to remove the axle stub from the steering knuckle. Pushing the axle into the steering knuckle, you will be able to turn the steering knuckle and swing it away from the axle. The axle stub should come out of the steering knuckle, and you can swing the knuckle to the side. Now finish removing the bolts holding the steering knuckle to the strut (bottom first), and voila!
10) Your steering knuckle is now removed and ready to be taken away to have your old bearings pressed out, and your new pressed in. Then, you get to put it all back together, and bring it for an alignment! Yay!
-When reassembling, you may want to use thread anti-sieze on some of the bolts that gave you trouble .
-If your axle stub doesn't want to come out of the steering knuckle, put the 30mm nut back on and thread it until it is flush with the end of the stub. then you can hit it a few times to drvie the stub out without mushrooming the end of the stub.
-Try blasting EVERY nut, bolt, and screw with PB Blaster or whatever you are using a day in advance, and then again at the start of your project. many of these nuts and bolts may have been rarely or never removed, thus they may be rusted into place.
Soooooo That's it! Pictures, directions, and all. I hope everyone likes it, and that it helps some folks, because Vortex and freinds have helped me a ton. If you find some of the pictures confusing, I took them during the reassembly, so some nuts are new and the hub had been resurfaced. If anyone knows anything I should add, let me hear it! I will submit this to the DIY/FAQ sticky as well. Did I do a good first DIY?
Modified by 95GolfIIIGL at 10:06 AM 8-3-2006