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    VWVortex


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    Thread: CHECK ENGINE, CODE P1543

    1. 08-22-2006 10:05 PM #1
      I had my check enginge come on, had the codes pulled and came out to be p1543. I tested my mass air flow sensor, it was fine. Then i was messing around with the throttle body and came to find out that if i unplug the sensor that is located under the throttle body going into it, the car would run, but a little rought, and the AC would not work unless the RPMs were over 2000. If i plug the plug in the car would REV up to 2500 RPM by it self over and over and i could not drive it. Now i am driving it with the plug off! I bought a GOOD used throttle body, thinking that it was the throttle position sensor! BUT HAVING THE EXACT SAME THING with the new Throttle body! This all happened after i jumped my car when the battery went dead from not driving the car for about a week ( my cd player drained the battery). PLEASE HELP!!!!!!! dont know what the next part i should replace/fix! THanks!

    2. 08-22-2006 10:34 PM #2
      A problem with the TPS (throttle position sensor)

      Chances are if you have a VR6, the TB is filthy since oil from the PCV is dumped in the TB.

      There is a DIY for cleaning the TB, do that, then go to the ross-tech forum and find someone with the vag software in your area and do a TB adaption.

      I am in Delaware if you need my vag.

      The TPS just may be defective, but I know your TB is filthy.

      What was that? Life's messy, clean it up?

      Mad Dope Silly MK1 Love!
      WWW.MK1DUBZ.COM

    3. 08-23-2006 09:12 AM #3
      Well, i tried cleaning my original TB, and it didnt do anything even my TBP sensor and the plug... Now i got another used one and cleaned it and same thing! What is a TB adaption, and a VAG software!? All of this happened after my battery went dead, and i jumped it! Thanks!

    4. 08-23-2006 10:27 AM #4
      Quote, originally posted by Daco69 »
      Well, i tried cleaning my original TB, and it didnt do anything even my TBP sensor and the plug... Now i got another used one and cleaned it and same thing! What is a TB adaption, and a VAG software!? All of this happened after my battery went dead, and i jumped it! Thanks!

      hmmmm. I think the jump start is a fluke, but I guess anything is possible.

      If you have the golf/jetta IV, then you probably have the drive by wire system, maybe it is a problem with the pot. (potentiometer) this is what controls the throttle.

      The adaption probably won't help, it is just done after the TB is cleaned.

      The software is used to scan the ECU, it is run from a computer and connects to your OBDII port.

      Go in to the Vag-Com forum by Ross Tech, there is an owners thread in there, see if there is someone near you that has it, most of them will give you a free scan and diagnostic test. I will be happy to if you are in Delaware.

      Mad Dope Silly MK1 Love!
      WWW.MK1DUBZ.COM

    5. 08-23-2006 09:05 PM #5
      Can you give me a link to the VAG COM forum? I dont even know what to do next for the car! I am about to just take it to the damn dealer and let them look at it!

    6. 08-24-2006 09:08 PM #6
      HHHEEEELLLLLPPPPPP any final suggestions?

    7. Banned
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      08-24-2006 09:10 PM #7
      Quote, originally posted by Daco69 »
      HHHEEEELLLLLPPPPPP any final suggestions?

      yes. READ the User Guide and FAQ's..that is a GREAT start. From there learn about SEARCH and all it's wonderfull-ness!


    8. 08-26-2006 10:42 AM #8
      I'm having the exact same problem with my 99 Jetta after jumping it off. Just curious, have you figured out the problem yet?

    9. 08-26-2006 09:10 PM #9
      Nope, still havent figured it out yet! Im not sure what to do about it, i have run out of DIY things! I will more then likely take it to the dealer next week if i have time and let them look at the damn thing! If you figure out what is wrong before me let me know! How longs has yours been doing it?

    10. 08-27-2006 01:44 AM #10
      Mine just started doing this yesterday, after jumping it off. I'm thinking it might be the ecm.

    11. 08-27-2006 02:48 AM #11
      Well from what i have learned and understand, it could also be that you need to have your throttle body re programmed, or something like that! I dont even know anymore exactly what it is! But im still screwin around with it! I also heard that everytime your battery goes dead you need to have the crap reprogrammed and re teach the car how to run! Sounds like a bunch of **** to me but thats what they say! If you figure it out please let me know!? By the way is it doing everythin like mine? AC, REVing up by its self?

    12. 08-27-2006 04:14 AM #12
      See the little forum jump at the bottom right.

      Goto Technical > VAG COM Diagnostic forum.


    13. 08-27-2006 10:47 AM #13
      My car has the exact same symtoms as you're describing. Code p1543, revving on its on, a/c not working until 2500 rpms or so. I posted in the VAG COM Diagnostic forum like Ferris Buehler suggested, maybe someone in there will shine some light on this for us.

    14. 08-27-2006 11:16 AM #14
      Did you guys (Daco69, Automotion) jump start the cars with the leads attached the their corresponding polarity on BOTH car's batteries?

      Because that is not the correct way to jump these cars...


      Modified by SnickerGTI at 7:23 AM 8-27-2006


    15. 08-27-2006 11:20 AM #15
      here ya go...

      DTC 17951 P1543 Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Signal too Low

      DTC stands for diagnostic trouble code. the next number is the volkswagen specific designation for this specific trouble code. the p1543 is the generic obd2 trouble code where p stands for powertrain, 1 stands for manufacturer specific (if it were a 0 next, it would be a governmental / sae standard code). and finally 543 represents the problem circuit.

      sometimes when jumping a car if the cables are attached battery to battery it is possible to cause problems to other electronic components. or if you do not have a good ground this can happen. sounds like you have access to a parts car seeing how you say you already bought 2 tb's. try getting your hands on a used potentiometer, what actuallly controls the opening of the throttle plate, and replace that. should fix your problem.

      a potentiometer is merely a type of actuator / sensor.

      hope this helps, and kudos to whoever said that earlier.


    16. 08-27-2006 11:25 AM #16
      Quote, originally posted by SnickerGTI »
      Did you guys (Daco69, Automotion) jump start the cars with the leads attached the their corresponding polarity on BOTH car's batteries?

      Yep. I actually used a "jump box", if it makes a difference.


    17. 08-27-2006 11:29 AM #17
      Quote, originally posted by Automotion »
      Yep. I actually used a "jump box", if it makes a difference.

      That might be the cause of your problem right there. These cars need the negative lead not to be attached to the negative dead battery contact, but instead to be clipped onto a ground on your engine block. Regardless of using another car's battery or a jump box as the source.

    18. 08-27-2006 11:30 AM #18
      Quote, originally posted by 01vwtoy »
      here ya go...

      DTC 17951 P1543 Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Signal too Low

      DTC stands for diagnostic trouble code. the next number is the volkswagen specific designation for this specific trouble code. the p1543 is the generic obd2 trouble code where p stands for powertrain, 1 stands for manufacturer specific (if it were a 0 next, it would be a governmental / sae standard code). and finally 543 represents the problem circuit.

      sometimes when jumping a car if the cables are attached battery to battery it is possible to cause problems to other electronic components. or if you do not have a good ground this can happen. sounds like you have access to a parts car seeing how you say you already bought 2 tb's. try getting your hands on a used potentiometer, what actuallly controls the opening of the throttle plate, and replace that. should fix your problem.

      a potentiometer is merely a type of actuator / sensor.

      hope this helps, and kudos to whoever said that earlier.


      Thanks for th input. I was thinking it was the potentiometer after I unplugged it and it ran, but after reading that daco69 had tried a different throttle body and it didn't fix it I was unsure. I assumed that the throttle body he tried was complete with the potentiometer. Is that correct daco69?


    19. 08-27-2006 11:33 AM #19
      do you have access to a volt meter? if so, switch the ignition on (dont start the car) and test the circuit for proper voltage. i think it should have 3 wires leading to it. one should be refernce voltage from the ecu, 5v. one should be ground. the other is the return signal. the farther you open the tb, the gretaer the signal going back to the ecu. get the readings and post in the tech forum for somebody witha a bently repair manual for the specs.

    20. 08-27-2006 11:33 AM #20
      Quote, originally posted by SnickerGTI »

      That might be the cause of your problem right there. These cars need the negative lead not to be attached to the negative dead battery contact, but instead to be clipped onto a ground on your engine block. Regardless of using another car's battery or a jump box as the source.

      I wish I would have known that yesterday..

      What do I do now?


    21. 08-27-2006 11:37 AM #21
      Quote, originally posted by Automotion »
      I wish I would have known that yesterday..

      What do I do now?

      It pays to read your owner's manual!


    22. 08-27-2006 11:40 AM #22
      Quote, originally posted by SnickerGTI »
      It pays to read your owner's manual!


    23. 08-27-2006 01:28 PM #23
      Okay, what exactly is the potentiometer? Where is it located? If there is anyway that you can email me a picture of the actual one, or the location of it if you do not mind please! Thanks for all of your help i will try to get a used one on monday and see what it will do! And for jumping my car, i just jumped it like a reg car hooked up the jumper cables and jumped it and thats it! One more question, I have a dry cell battery and am thinking about putting it in. Do you think it will be okay to do so and should i do it before i replace the potentiometer? Thanks for all of your help!

    24. 08-27-2006 01:41 PM #24
      The potentiometer is the black sensor/module on the throttle body, facing the front of the car. I'm pretty sure it's the sensor that you unpluuged. I read that it is calibrated to the throttle body and should not be changed by itself, but as a complete unit.

      I got some advice from another site that actually got mine running again with the sensor plugged up, but it still has some issues. The advice I got was as follows: (plug the sensor up first)

      Get in the car. Key in ignition. Turn key to "ON" and wait 3 minutes while doing NOTHING to the car. When the time is up turn key off and then start as normal.

      Get in car. Key in ignition. Turn key to "ON". Push gas pedal to floor and wait 3 seconds. Let go pedal, turn key "OFF". Start as normal.

      After the first step it cranked up surging and searching for idle like before, I shut it off and did the second step. It cranked up and idled smooth. I let it run a few minutes and went for a drive. It seems to run fine under light acceleration, but anything over about 1/4 throttle and it stalls. The a/c still doesn't kick in until the rpms are up.


    25. 08-27-2006 02:31 PM #25
      Yep, i got mine to do that too, but i didnt like it because you cant really accelerate over about 3000 rpms or so! Thats why i just unplugged mine and can drive it normaly. But mine is a 5 speed so when you shift it jerks a little bit which i hate becasue i feel like im going to break something else!

    26. 08-27-2006 02:33 PM #26
      and another question!? When you turn your ignition on with the plug in, do you hear clicking from under the hood/throttle body? Mine would start clicking about 10 times before it stops. You can see the throttle body moving as if someone was pressing the gas pedal from the inside! Does yours do that?

    27. 08-27-2006 04:39 PM #27
      Quote, originally posted by Daco69 »
      and another question!? When you turn your ignition on with the plug in, do you hear clicking from under the hood/throttle body? Mine would start clicking about 10 times before it stops. You can see the throttle body moving as if someone was pressing the gas pedal from the inside! Does yours do that?

      Mine does that also.


    28. 08-27-2006 09:10 PM #28
      Well you see thats wierd, my old TB did it as well, but i just now went out there to try the new one that i got, and it doesnt do it at all clikcing wise, but when i crank it of course the piece of **** revs up! Keep me posted on your situation please! thanks!

    29. 08-28-2006 06:29 PM #29
      Well, I'm glad to say mine is fixed. I took it in to the dealer for an "idle adaptation". $36.95 and about a half hour later it was running like new again. Apparently it's a pretty common problem that's shows up after changing the battery, or in my case, jump starting it.

    30. 08-28-2006 07:16 PM #30
      Oh thats great!!! the ac is back to normal as well?? That means i bought me the spare damn throttle body for nothing spent $150 on the damn thing!!! Did you have to do the diagnostics as well or just the adaptation!?

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      08-28-2006 07:34 PM #31
      if you had read the FAQ's and DIY's, you'd know that you can do a TB adaptation WITHOUT a VAGCOM.

      insert key, turn forward but do not start (position II). touch nothing for 2 1/2 minutes, you will hear the TB re-adapt....then it's done. nothing else. make sure the TB is clean before you do this.

      again, you have not posted anything but generic P codes, so we are assuming that the issue is really the TB, but it may not be. it is always BETTER to get it scanned with a VAGCOM, so you can see the ACTUAL codes of what is going on.


    32. 08-28-2006 07:57 PM #32
      I just went out there and did exactly what you said to do, and i think that the clicking coming out of the throttle body is what they say is (adaptation), which didnt do anything for me! In another words, that theory did not work!

    33. 08-28-2006 08:34 PM #33
      I tried that method several times and it still wasn't right, so I gave up and went to the dealer.

      My a/c went back to working right also.


    34. 08-28-2006 11:07 PM #34
      Great, did they charge you a diagnostics fee as well, or only the adaptation fee? And again thanks for letting me know what it is!

    35. 08-29-2006 07:30 AM #35
      The bill shows "diagnostics/idle adaption" and only one fee. They even told me why my abs light was on, under the same diagnosis.

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