Project Build: sc2020

[Retrographic]

Quote, originally posted by sdezego »

Why do you hope so? ..and why the sad face before even asking? flowbench provides validation to you and others that I know what I am doing, and I don't need that sort of validation. Lets just say, that I am not new at this. Look above at the one finished port on the right, and if you see any flaws in my work, please be sure to comment.

I don't think he is trying to knock your work. I think he is desperately hoping for flow numbers on the head to see how much better you were able to make it flow. Not to criticize, but to be even more impressed.

[G60ING]

Quote, originally posted by sdezego »

Just too damn busy in general. I spent the last 36hrs alone in Tax preparation hell .............. I am also questioning my Trans heavily and am seriously thinking about an 02m with maybe a 3.94 of 4.11 'ish Ring and Pinion. I hate the G60 gearing. I just need to find someone that will either make some form of a trade trade for my Silver Corrado or buy it outright, etc. Shawn

I know all about work schedules from hell. I just finished up Norfolk's budget and over 100hrs in a 7 day period.

With the 2L bottom end your G60 gearing will feel completly different. trust me I had Vr6 gearing when I built the 2LG60. The extra stroke of the aba did not match up well with the longer Vr6 gearing. Hence why I sold you the 2L block.

[G60ING]

If you need a complete good Vr6 transmission I have one $300+shpping and its yours

[sdezego]

Thanks Frank. Actually, I really respect your opinion and experience with the different gearing on the G60 and 2L stroke. We had even discussed it a couple of times as you may recall, and if it weren't for that, the decision would be final to do away with the ATA. Your experience with it on the 2L, is really making the decision hard.

I still have time before I need to make a final decision on the gearing, so I need to do some more figuring and research. I had an AYL and sold it, but don't really know how noticeable the small difference is between the ATA.

I really want to go 02m for a few reasons:
- The gearbox is built to withstand a lot of punishment from the get go.
- they generally have much less wear than any 02a. Even mine which was well taken car of.
- The gear changes seem so much more refined on the 02m than on the 02a. This is the big one. I figured I could play with the final drive if I had to make some adjustments. Adding a shift weight on the ATA may help quite a bit, but after knocking through the gears on an 02m, I was all smiles.

I already have a brand new Light Eurospec steel Flywheel, new Vr PP and clutch awaiting, so I might just bite the bullet and buy the peloquin for the 02a and call it a day. 1st gear just really disturbs me on the ATA as you are in and out of it so quickly. Maybe it will be better as you cay on the longer stroke.

We'll see and thanks!

Shawn

[G60ING]

Don't do anything to the tranny, no peliquin. drive it as is and then plan an upgrade once you have had a chance to drive the 2020/ATA Combo.

[sdezego]

A couple more pics I came across of some older progress. I am no longer using the AWP timing belt tensioner pictured below since I switched to non-Distributer (using the 9a IM shaft and stuff). Now, I can fit the 9a tensioner with one of my custom 157T Belts.

As Usual, Click for larger pics.

[sdezego]

Before I post some more Porting progress, I just wanted to post this older picture of a finished intake port. Look closely at it compared to the untouched ports and you will see that there is some very poor bowl work and castings from the factory. Even still the AEB flows ~220-240cfm stock. Ported, it has been proven to flow ~ 270cfm.

Click for larger pic.

[sdezego]

Click for larger pics

[sdezego]

click for larger pics

[sdezego]

Click for larger pics

Exhaust ports are 95% done..

[sdezego]

Click for larger pics.

again, Exhaust ports are about 95% done.

TEMPLATE for Port Matching the Intake.

[G60ING]

I'll give you a good Vr6 transmission for porting like that on my 20V head

[leebro61]

Quote, originally posted by G60ING »

I'll give you a good Vr6 transmission for porting like that on my 20V head

I think Shawn only trades services for yardwork

[sdezego]

LOL. I am not sure how many hours I have in the this head or the port work alone, but when i am done, I won't be rushing to do another until I get some down time 20 ports...

[G60ING]

Quote, originally posted by sdezego »

LOL. I am not sure how many hours I have in the this head or the port work alone, but when i am done, I won't be rushing to do another until I get some down time 20 ports...

I bet. I remember reading that a stock aeb head flows more then a stage 4 16V head from port tuning.com So I figure that there is no real need to port the 20V head since it has such great flow numbers. But I do like the work I've seen you put into your head.

[sdezego]

Yea, I posted some flow number above in the barrage of images last night.

Stock, the AEB flows ~220-240cfm. Ported, it has been proven to flow ~ 270cfm+. Bob Quindazzi (mainly in the 1.8t forums) has some numbers from the heads he ported iirc and they are/were in the 270+ range.

It always helps and it is free hp. The differences that I have made by headwork alone on various engines over the years was my drive . I figured since I am not running a Big Turbo, I might as well make the best of it. I would like to put a set of cams in it, but I am not sure I want to spend that chunk..

I heard that Nate Romero ended up getting 240whp on his all motor 2020 . His ports are completely reworked and monstrous. There are some pics floating around the 1.8t forum iirc. That type of work definitely requires a flow bench and a LOT of trial and error. Obviously, he had very different goals in mind

[Issam Abed]

Quote, originally posted by sdezego »

I heard that Nate Romero ended up getting 240whp on his all motor 2020 .

Now imagine that + your G60.Thats going to be one Corrado that I would love to take for a spin.

Btw nice desktop:

[sdezego]

Here is a pic of one of the intake cyls that I had finished a little while back.

Click for larger pic.

[VWDave88]

this work is beautiful man i cant wait to see what it will do

[papichulo7]

Quote, originally posted by VWDave88 »

this work is beautiful man i cant wait to see what it will do

x2

[sdezego]

Thanks! Me neither. I am starting to get the Big itch to finish it lately, but still won't compromise "just to get it done". Especially, since my current car is running so nicely. Still have a lot of work to do.

I just finished the porting yesterday and pics should be up in a few. Head should be going together this week.

Shawn

[sdezego]

Porting is finished!

As usual, Click for lager pics

Modified by sdezego at 1:26 PM 4-29-2007

[Issam Abed]

Shawn what valves are you using?And where are the updates!?

[sdezego]

I am using Stock valves since everything was in good shape.

My opinion is that I see no point in going oversize valves because of the head shrouding and closeness of the valves to begin with. I think the big gains here are the porting and bowl work and enlarging the ID of the seat slightly (i.e. under the 60* cut into the bowl). Also, there are significant benefits in Sodium filled Exhaust valves that I would rather not just throw away.

Not saying that there is no value in the very small OS valves available, just not worth it for my project goals and is reserved for the ballerz If, I needed all new valves, I would consider it.

I just cc'ed my Cylinder and Head (#1) because I want to see what my CR is. Since, I decked the block and had to shave the head slightly after welding, I want to make sure I am still where I want to be.

I will post those details this weekend and still want to polish the Combustion chambers. I also planning on claying the pistons to check and verify valve clearance. I am sure they are fine as JE made the pistons, but I want to check in case I decide at the las minute to drop a set of cams in here

S

Modified by sdezego at 11:59 AM 5-4-2007

[sdezego]

Forgot to mention that I removed all of the stock oil galley Ball Bearing plugs. what a PITA.

I just got my 1/16" NPT (Pipe Tap) yesterday (hard to find locally) and am going to allen plug all of them. I decided to do this to clean all of the oil galleys and make sure there was no debris/residues caught in any of them.

S

[G60ING]

what are you doing for an oil feed line? getting the one from the british website?

[sdezego]

Quote, originally posted by G60ING »

what are you doing for an oil feed line? getting the one from the british website?

I was planning on using the factory line either off of the Filter Flange or off of the side if the head. Haven't really decided yet as I convince myself back and forth that one option is better than the other.

I know I want to add the upper low oil pressure switch on the side of the head, just so the factory buzzer system works correctly. Since I removed all of the oil galley Ball plugs, I have like 6 locations to choose from

[sdezego]

I just cc'ed my Cylinder and Head (#1) because I want to see what my CR is. Since, I decked the block and had to shave the head slightly after welding, I want to make sure I am still where I want to be.

The question "What is my compression ratio" gets asked a lot in the various forums, so I figured that I would "show my work".

Here is some stuff that may help

CC = Combustion Chamber (Referring to the physical chamber itself)
cc = unit volume cubic centimeter or cm*cm*cm or mL (mili-Liter)
PV = Piston Volume (At TDC to top of block)
CD = Cyl Displacement
HV = Head Chamber Volume (approx 43 cc for stock 20v)
HGV = Head Gasket Volume (depends on final Gasket thickness!) (Pi*R*R*Thickness)

My 2l= 92.8 Stroke and 83mm Bore = 2008cc

Cyl Dis (CD) = (Bore x Bore x Stroke x 0.0031416) / 4 = (2008/4 = 502 cc)
HGV = 8.66cc (~1.6mm Compressed for stock 2L MLS)
PV = 9cc (Measured)
HV = 42cc (Measured)

Compression Ratio = (CD + PV + HV + HGV) / (PV + HV + HGV)

Note: If you have a compression ratio goal you can work backward.

CR = (502 + 9 + 42 + 8.66) / (9 + 42 + 8.66) = 9.41 :1

I wanted to be around 9.25:1, but since the block was decked and the Head was shaved slightly, it brought it up a bit.
I am going to remove 1cc from the CC when I polish them which will be perfect.

Shawn

cc'ing the HV and PV (Click for larger pics)

[Issam Abed]

Quote, originally posted by sdezego »

or off of the side if the head.

There are 2 @ the rear.I would imagine they both have the same oil pressure correct?

[sdezego]

Quote, originally posted by Wizard-of-OD »

There are 2 @ the rear.I would imagine they both have the same oil pressure correct?

similar, but the head is "Last in Line" to get oil pressure per say and the oil galleys are small in comparison to the oil channels at the filter housing. Drawing from the head might drop the pressure in the head slightly (i.e. hydro lifters, journals, etc). Since the G60 line is so small and flows so little, though, I am sure it is negligible though and is likely where it will end up.

I just got done tapping all of the Oil Galley plugs and did tap the one near the Coolant flange to M10. It nothing else, the Mk2 secondary Oil pressure switch is going there, but i will likely run the charger line off there as well. I have the pressure switch in there now and it looks factory

[sdezego]

A small update. I went to finally assemble the head and hand lapped the valves to check them. 3 of the Ex seats had an ever so slight issue. I am not really sure from what (Factory possibly), but it is enough that i want to fix. My neway seat cutters were way too big for the 20v head so, I have the right set coming so I can clean up those Ex Seats. I'll have some pics to clarify it and hopefully my cutters will be here before the weekend.

Baseball season is over (I was coaching), so now I have my spare time back and am ready to get down to brass tacks..

Shawn

[sdezego]

Good progress this weekend for a change. As I mentioned above, I wasn't happy with the way the valves Hand Lapped in, so I decided to do a valve job. In the First pic, you can see that there is an area on the top of the Exhaust Seat that the valve did not lap in properly showing there is some seat distortion for some reason. There were 3 ex seats like this, but I decided to cut all in/ex seats.

Click for larger pics

[sdezego]

Also had a spare piece of Lexan Rod and made up a valve seal tool on the lathe. Worked flawlessly as you will see.

[sdezego]

Head going together.

Click For larger Pics

My highly technical Cam Chain tensioner Compressor

[sdezego]

For those Familiar with the 20v head you will see that I removed all of the oil galley ball plugs to clean all of the channels. I Also tapped for the Head Pressure switch and tapped the holes for pipe plugs (not fully inserted in this pic).

Click for larger pics

Head will be going on the block Tomorrow Until then, it's time for a