Project Build: sc2020

[sdezego]

I had a few questions about how I was going to modify the 20v Tensioner, so here is my off the cuff ideas.

1st - If you are not running a Dist and plan on running the 16v/aeb IM shaft 43T gear, then you can simply use the 16v "fixed" type tensioner with the 157T custom belt and call it a day. No need to read on in this post.

If you are running Dist (Which I was going to), you have to run the only available "correct Tooth belt" at 158T (159T would be perfect) which will not fit with the 16V tensioner. You must use the 20V variant which allows you to use the 158T belt.

Here are two ideas that I had for mod'ing the 20V tensioner to make it "Fixed" instead of the hydro self-adjusting. Even though I am not running dist, I may still use the 20v type pictured and "affix it" as shown.

Option #1

Click to Enlarge:

Option #2

Modified by sdezego at 5:24 PM 1-2-2007

[bulldog2.G]

Thoroughly Jealous, Shawn.

[leebro61]

Quote, originally posted by bulldog2.G »

Thoroughly Jealous, Shawn.

X2. But at least now I know I can handle him around a golf course.

Did you ever get that thing I mailed to you?

I never heard back...

[leebro61]

Mailed to bulldog2.g. Did you see who I replied too noob

{Yes, it was confusing, I realize this...}

[sdezego]

Quote, originally posted by leebro61 »

Mailed to bulldog2.g. Did you see who I replied too noob

The Barley and Hops were clouding my cognitive skills

BTW: That is what PMs are for n00b

[leebro61]

Figured I'd kill two birds with one post

[Pigsdofly]

I love the pics with the red scribble text.

Great post BTW.

[WolfGTI]

Update?

[sdezego]

sorry, I have been very busy here on the text reading your updates and googling, thus no time to work on mine

Actually I have made some progress of sorts. I ordered a crap load of misc parts, factory bolts, studs, elec connectors etc that should be here any day.

In addition, I took the 9a and ABA oil pumps apart to compare the internals, and as suspected, everything is interchangeable. The only difference is the Splined drive shaft on the 9a as opposed to the Forked one on the ABA. I will show some pics just for the heck of it.

So the definite plan "now" is to run the 60-2 trigger on MSnS-e as opposed to Dist. So, I am going to swap out the Modified ABA IM shaft and Cog for the 9a. Didn't put the oil pump in or pan on yet, so this is no biggie.

I have also been trying to decipher whether the 60-2 pickup I have from the ABA that I have will play nicely with MS. Seems to be some conflicting info out there and I don't own a scope.

I have also been doing some wiring or sorts Hooking up a new Tig in my garage and honing my skills. Lots of stuff to put this to good use on!

Shawn

Modified by sdezego at 6:31 PM 1-2-2007

[leebro61]

That's a hell of a tig you got there buddy. Must have paid for that by hustling chumps like me on the golf course

Get your practice on because I might need to come over and do some fabrimicating in a few weeks

[d-bot]

Quote, originally posted by sdezego »

se the 20V variant which allows you to use the 158T belt. Here are two ideas that I had for mod'ing the 20V tensioner to make it "Fixed" instead of the hydro self-adjusting. Even though I am not running dist, I may still use the 20v type pictured and "affix it" as shown.

Just use a 16v tensioner with a standard bolt and 3 washers to space it out to keep in line with your timing gear. Thats how I did mine. It's simple, easy, and works great.

btw this is for my mk1 thus you have to use the 16v tensioner but not sure why you would want to mess with the other ideas. Not that they wouldn't work but it just seems like more work for the same result.

Keep up the sweet work though!

[sdezego]

You have pictured an internal Waterpump and a short block and therfore there are numerous OEM VW belts. For the ABA (Tall Block) Running Dist, there is no belt that will fit using the 16V tensioner (OEM or custom cut). 159T would be perfect and would allow the use of the 16V tensioner, but there is no such belt. So, you must use a 158T which requires the use of the modified 20v tensioner

Edit: No Belt with the Correct Tooth Profile. Nice setup BTW!

S


Modified by sdezego at 4:41 PM 10-11-2006

[sdezego]

very slow progress. Too many other projects and such, but should have the rest of the bottom end buttoned up tonight.

in the mean time here are some pic of the Oil Pump.

In case anyone is planning on changing directions Mid stream as I did (Dist vs COP or WS) or in case you just enjoy saving a few $s, here is a tip.

If you plan on running the 16v Oil pump drive Gear and dist block off setup you can swap the Shafts from an old 9a oil Pump into the much less expensive ABA oil pump. I don't think the 16v PL has the recess notch on the Oil pump shaft becuase it does not have clearance issues as the 2Liters do, but irregardless.

Pics tell the story. oh, yea, you MUST have a press!

Click pics to enlarge:

[sdezego]

Another week out of town on business, but made some progress in the machine shop today. Here is my way of modifying the ABA serp pulley for the wider 16v/20v belt.

- Total cut was ~5.8mm
- .001" press fit
- perfectly eccentric and uses stock crank centering
- perfectly balanced

Click for larger pics:

[titeGTi]

nice stuff

[speediG60]

Nice build but painting the block gloss black might not have been the best idea as potential oil leaks would be hard to see.

[sdezego]

...dare you say anything about Oil leaks.

Actually, I have built enough engines to know all of the tricks to prevent any leaks. There is always a chance of an inferior part though.

[CorradoSLCVR6]

cool

[G60ING]

Quote, originally posted by sdezego »

Forgot to add my original Mock-up. Shown is the Euro Large Port Intake from the AGU Golf.

You don't think that will cause routing problems for the IC and air filter?

Have you thought about running an OBDI aba TB?


Modified by G60ING at 9:50 AM 12-10-2006

[sdezego]

Quote, originally posted by G60ING »

You don't think that will cause routing problems for the IC and air filter? Have you thought about running an OBDI aba TB?

Yea, that was the only one I had at the time from a spare motor. Since that pic I did get up an OBD1 ABA TB

I really haven't finalized the routing design just yet, but I have a plan and a fall back plan.

My Main Goal is to keep a nice compressed flow out of the charger down into the FMIC (Drivers side) and then from the FMIC P/S up into the TB.

Having the air filter on the PS might be a bit tricky to route and probably impossible with the stock air box, but running the Eurosport Coolflow and a K&N looks doable.

I really want to go back to the stock air box, so I may run the air box on the Driver's side where the battery is and trunkmount the batt.

I also plan on making the charger bypass mechanical from the stock G60 butterfly/Bypass welded onto a pipe just before the TB.

Shawn

[G60ING]

Quote, originally posted by Darrsh »

but 20vG60, i cant wait to here a sound clip

Thats what its all about reasonable power with an awesome sound

[Corradoman8]

lookin good, i can't wait to see the final product

[1.8t rado]

Quote, originally posted by sdezego »

looks happy to see you
crazy build man. i'd like to see it finished

[sdezego]

Quote, originally posted by G60ING »

That's what its all about reasonable power with an awesome sound

Most Definitely. And I think that SuperSprint Header with this setup is going to help things sound very healthy

----
Progress is being made, just not at the pace that I would like. Many other distractions including installing Megasquirt on my current setup to get it tuned and any bugs worked out as well the recent acquisition of another G60-> http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2974793

...oh, yea and various things in life (all good). Kids are definite Time Burglars, but they're worth it

[G60ING]

I miss the sound of a G60 with the TT SS Borla. I picked up an NA 20V header manifold

Modified by G60ING at 12:53 PM 12-15-2006

[sdezego]

Quote, originally posted by G60ING »

I picked up an NA 20V header manifold

That was my first option, but at the time no one wanted to sell one at a decent price. Also, when I picked it up timing was right to drop coin on the SS header and it was aplenty. Still going to take fab work to Reflange it and make it fit too.

[squeeze]

Re: 20V NA mani....I picked up mine for 120 from Jim at Audi5TurboTech.

How much were you being quoted?

jkm

[sdezego]

240. if I could have picked one up for 120, it would not have even been a second thought.

[squeeze]

That sucks man, sorry to hear that. On the bright side....you do have a nice build!

I've perused your thread and I see that you do your own checks on the bottom end components, where do you get that information? Tolerances, clearances etc. etc? And also the checks do you perform?

Always looking to learn a little more!

tia!

[sdezego]

Thanks. Years or building engines and such, but the Bentley lists all tolerances.

[sdezego]

In the process of doing the head now, just too many things going on at once. I finally had a chance to finish the install of Megaaquirt on my current setup and am in the process of tuning. Fired right up and had it idling perfectly rock steady with 42# injectors @ 3 Bar in about 5 minutes ...needless to say it did not idle like this with Digi.

Anyway, here is what I am working on with the head and should have some more pics in the next few days.

I ordered up some T6 AL Rod(s) and I am going to cut some short discs and knock into the head drain holes and then plug weld flush with the head's gasket surface. The corner holes, as well as the right front drain, will be angle drilled from the drain holes in the gasket to the drain holes in the head. This will align the crush surfaces on the gasket properly with the head.

This next step is really what I consider an optional one, but since I am already welding on the head, it is not much more work. I am going to interconnect the 4 rear oil drains via oil galleys. This is to prevent any oil pooling near the exhaust valve guide seals from plugging the 3 center oil drains. 1 will be connected to the rear corner and 2 will be connected to the front corner. This requires filling the areas shown below hatched in red and then cross drilling 2 galley holes (one from the front of the head and one from the rear) to interconnect the oil drains. These do not need to be big. A 1/8" pipe plug at the front and back of the head will then plug these pilot holes (just like the factory did for the lifter Oil Galleys)

Click to Enlarge:

Modified by sdezego at 5:12 PM 1-2-2007

[Urieal]

I am summarily impressed thus far

Thank you for all the insight...I have been trying to find the absolute BEST option for my future build and I will be following your outline here VERY closely. Probably do some minor things differently, but for the most part...very similar.

[sdezego]

No problem at all

Update: I didn't get to finish the welding on the head yet, but did make progress of sorts. Tonight, I logged 25 miles on the MsnS setup that I built up for this motor. Had a snafu on the first run the other day but got it sorted. I still need to fine tune, but it runs absolutely amazing thus far

S

[sdezego]

As just mentioned, I finally got the Megasquirt setup installed that I had build over 6mo ago. It is all hooked up on my current G60 8v setup, so I get any bugs worked out and get a base tune for the new motor etc. I am really beside myself as to how well MS works and it's capability After only about 30min of driving by myself, I have the car about 90% tuned. The software for MS is truly amazing...

Here is a quick data log from my LM1-LMA3 wideband. The spike just before boost is because I have Acceleration enrichment turned off for tuning purposes. It is still a bit on the Rich through boost because I had the Authority set low in Autotune, so that it was only able to make small changes at a time. Still learning the software and just need a bit more driving time before I can close this chapter. But not before a little Digi vs MS Dyno showdown. I still have Digi currently in there that I can swap back and forth with a harness plug change

Time for a couple of s

[Urieal]

Quote, originally posted by sdezego »

No problem at all Update: I didn't get to finish the welding on the head yet, but did make progress of sorts. Tonight, I logged 25 miles on the MsnS setup that I built up for this motor. Had a snafu on the first run the other day but got it sorted. I still need to fine tune, but it runs absolutely amazing thus far S

Please post before welding and after welding shots of the head. You don't even have to annotate the differences...I'll figure them out