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Retrofitting Dual Xenon Headlamps [TOC] [Photos re-hosted x4]

86K views 114 replies 29 participants last post by  dasantas 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I have always wanted to have the dual xenon headlamps on my Phaeton, not really for any functional advantage that they offer, but simply because of the looks. The front headlight is a key element in the visual design of the Phaeton, and I don’t think that the single xenon headlight (with the halogen high beam) that we get here in North America looks as good as the original dual xenon design.

I finally got around to retrofitting dual xenon headlamps this week. The removal and installation of the headlamps is fairly simple, but sourcing the parts took forever. I didn’t want to buy two complete and fully built up dual xenon headlamps – the cost would have been about $1,500 per side – so, I rather slowly assembled all the parts I needed by scouring European salvage yards. This was a bit of a nuisance, and took a fair amount of time.

If you want to accomplish this modification, you will need the ‘basic’ headlamp assembly for each side of the car. The basic assembly includes the lenses and alignment motors, but does not include the bulbs or the controllers. The existing NAR spec low beam xenon controller (and bulb) can be re-used in the ROW spec dual xenon assemblies. A high beam controller costs about 300 Euro, and a xenon bulb costs about 100 Euro. The xenon bulbs are identical for all four positions, but there is a difference between the low beam and high beam controllers – they are not interchangeable.

A very small (and quite simple) modification to the wiring harness is needed, due to the provision of a third connector on the dual xenon headlamp assembly to power the city light (parking light). The parts cost for this modification is minimal, about $20 total. The lights will work without the wiring modification, but the city light won’t work, and you will get a ‘burned out light’ warning on the display in the instrument cluster.

Before considering this modification, you should check to see if the European beam pattern is accepted in the state you live in. Canada accepts the European beam pattern, and some manufacturers ship vehicles to Canada with European spec headlights in them. Not all American states will accept the European beam pattern, and this could cause problems down the road when it comes to safety checks or selling the vehicle.

Having said all that, here’s the instructions for doing the retrofit.

You will need a left and right hand side dual xenon headlight assembly. The current part number for this assembly is 3D1 941 017 (for the left side of the car) and 3D1 941 018 for the right side of the car. This presumes cars that are driven on the right side of the road, as in North America. If you want to retrofit dual xenon headlamps to a Phaeton that will be driven on the left side of the road, for example, in the UK or Singapore, the headlight assembly part numbers are different. There are other part numbers for the same assembly, such as 3D1 941 015 / 016. I’m not really sure what the difference is between the 15/16 assemblies and the 17/18 assemblies.

You will also need an additional xenon bulb for the high beam position and a high beam controller for each assembly, as well as a cable for the high beam controller. As mentioned earlier, the bulb is the same for both low and high beam. The high beam controller is part number 3D0 909 391, and the cable (which is NOT included with the controller) is 3D0 971 671. The low beam controller and cable is the same on both the NAR and ROW assemblies, so just salvage the low beam controller (PN 3D0 909 157) and cable from your NAR assembly. More detailed information about the different parts involved can be found on page 941-21 of the Phaeton parts catalog.

Headlamp assemblies are normally sold without controllers

https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit1.jpg

Details of controllers

https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit2.jpg

The headlight assemblies themselves are quite large, and the special purpose box that they ship in is about three feet long, one foot high, and one foot wide. So, you can anticipate some fairly hefty charges for ‘cubic weight’ if you are shipping these things from Europe to North America by air.

Before you start the installation process, purchase two small connectors PN 1J0 973 702 and two VW repair wires to fit those connectors, along with four heat shrink crimp connectors. These parts are very common (note the Golf part number) – my local VW dealer actually had them in stock and did not need to special order them. You will use these connectors to hook up the city light (parking light) on the dual xenon headlamp assemblies. You will also need a special crimping tool, and a heat gun.

Connector for City Lights

https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit3.jpg

To remove the existing headlights and install the new ones, you have to remove the front bumper cover and do a fair amount of fooling around at the front of the Phaeton. So, it’s best to find some kind of platform that you can put your Phaeton on that allows you to lift it up to a comfortable working height. Personally, I prefer using a Hunter VAG 1944B alignment platform for this purpose. You can find one of these at your local VW dealer.

Drive the car onto the alignment platform, put a chock on either side of one of the rear wheels, then raise the Phaeton to a comfortable working height. Make sure you put the two front wheels on the rotating turntables, because you will need to turn the wheels later on to get access to screws and bolts in the front fender.

Phaeton on Alignment Platform

https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit4.jpg


https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit4b.jpg

The next task is to remove the front bumper cover. This process is fairly well described in the VW Phaeton repair manual in section 63. If you are going to undertake a project such as this, you really should get a VW Phaeton repair manual – see this post for more information: How to Purchase a Phaeton Service Manual. But, if you don’t happen to have a repair manual handy, you can usually find one within walking distance of the VAG 1944B alignment platform.

Although I said that the process of removing the bumper cover is “fairly well described” in the repair manual, there are a few hints and tips worth mentioning if you have never done this before. Here they are.

1) You need a Torx 25 with a one foot extension on it.
This is the “special tool T 10113” that the repair manual refers to. Don’t even think of starting work unless you have this tool. The photo below shows you what you have to accomplish with it.

Where you have to be able to reach with the special tool


https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit5.jpg

Once you have the above tool (and the electrical parts needed to fabricate and install the city light connector), you can begin disassembly work. The first step is easy enough...

Put the washer jet covers in the Headlight service position using the ZAB central display.
Pull the washer jet covers fully open – they will lock in place, fully open.


https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit5b.jpg

2) Print out the bumper cover removal instructions.

There are about 25 different fasteners used to hold the bumper cover on. Not all of them are obvious – in fact, some are hidden pretty well. You really need to have a printed copy of the disassembly instructions to refer to, and you have to read the instructions very carefully to make sure you have not missed anything.

3) Identify the fasteners as you remove them.
You can easily identify the fasteners by just attaching them to a piece of masking tape, and marking the masking tape with the number that the disassembly instructions assign to that particular fastener. Be aware that there are four or five different types of fasteners used – they all look quite similar but they are NOT interchangeable.

Start by removing the foglight covers. You can find a detailed explanation about how to remove the foglight covers at this post: There's fog in my foglight... , but note that you only have to remove the plastic cover from the foglight. The foglight itself remains untouched, installed on the bumper cover - don't take it off.

Single screw holding the cover for the foglight

https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit6.jpg

Then remove the large, obvious bolts under the grille…

http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit7.jpg


http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit8.jpg

…and all sorts of other bolts and screws

https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit9.jpg


https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit10.jpg

There are three ‘friction-fit’ plugs that just pull out. These are not screws.

https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit11.jpg

Remove these four screws from each side. It helps to turn the wheel go get easier access.

https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit12.jpg

This will allow this little flap to open up

https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit13.jpg

Now, remove the ‘hidden screw’ that everyone always misses

https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit14.jpg

Finally, undo the last fastener on each side, using the super-long screwdriver.
This fastener normally will not ‘come out’ with the screwdriver – it is caged.

https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit15.jpg

Where you are aiming for with the long screwdriver

https://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Xenonretrofit16.jpg

continued in next post...
 
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#31 ·
Re: Retrofitting Dual Xenon Headlamps (PanEuropean)

Hi Michael and "Crew",
I and also some guys over here in Germany (and I guess, at many other places in the World, too) got one little problem:
Did EVER anyone of you guys change a bulb on a dual-xenon headlight? So, like the ones Micheal built in his Phaeton (shown below), exchanging the single Xenon Headlamp.
If so, could this specialist please post some pictures or information on how to open the Headlamps from behind when built in in a car, for to change the Xenon-bulbs? Seems to be totally different from the single xenon ones and I couldn't find any information about it.

Thank you so much!
Arne
 
#32 ·
Re: Retrofitting Dual Xenon Headlamps (Ronntar)

Hi Arne:
Dual xenon headlights were not offered in North America (I did a retrofit on my car), so, there might not be anyone from North America who has any experience changing the bulbs in these.
Touch wood, I have not had to replace a bulb (low or high) in my headlights yet.
Michael
 
#33 ·
Arne,
Regardless of which bulb it is, I fear you may have to remove the entire headlamp assembly to get at it. Although you can remove the rubber cover for the high beam, I'm not sure you can remove the bulb given the available space and if it's the low beam, one of the controllers is screwed in place on top of it so you can't access it the same way as the single xenon assembly.
Having said that, removing the front bumper is not the hardest job in the world - I managed it despite the only experience I'd had previously of working on my Phaeton was installing a rear climate control panel!
Harry
 
#35 ·
Parts List for Retrofitting Dual Xenon Headlamps

Would either Michael or Harry (or anyone else who has done this mod) confirm or correct my part listing (and part numbers) needed to complete this job? I have an '04 NAR W12 and am considering putting in dual xenons, but want to make sure that I account for all of the parts costs before I pull the trigger.

(2) Dual Xenon Headlamps (3D1 941 017 & 3D1 941 018)
(4) Xenon bulbs (I can't find the part number, but here's the item on Partsgeek http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2004/volkswagen/phaeton/body_electrical/headlight_bulb.html)
(2) Xenon High beam controllers (3D0 909 391)
(2) Xenon high beam cables (3D0 971 671) Is this the high beam cable? - http://www.ecstuning.com/Search_VW/3d0971671/ES351106/

Michael, you mentioned that modifying the wiring to allow for the city lights cost only about $20 in parts. Are there any additional parts needed to made this modification other than the ones I've listed above?

Bobby
 
#38 ·
Yeah, I know. I hate the cars I see that have aftermarket lights that blind all oncoming traffic, and that's why I asked. I would really like to have halo rings as my DRL's, like the BMW's, and burn the HID's only at night. Since I'm going to do the headlight retrofit anyways, I figured I'd ask how complicated it would be to do correctly and keep the beams in line with the safety standard. I don't want to be the guy that looks like I have my brights on all the time. Unfortunately The new LED lights seem to have a hard time syncing with an 04 model, so I'm trying a different route.
 
#40 ·
Bobby:

I would like to help, but I am out of the country right now (in the Seychelles, which is on the opposite side of the world to North America) and I will be working every day from now to Feb 12 training pilots.

I will do my best to try and dig up some information that I can post in text format, but I won't be available for back-and-forth text conversation until I get back to Canada, which is foreseen for about mid-February.

Michael
 
#48 ·
Bobby:

The dual xenon headlights don't have to be "coded" per se, because when you install the two headlight assemblies, you also install new controllers for the high beams at the same time. The low beam controllers on dual xenon headlights are the same as the low beam controllers on single xenon headlights In a dual xenon installation, these controllers don't interact with the car any differently than single xenon installation. It is actually the same controller for the low beam circuit - and the only interaction with other systems that involves that controller is watching the suspension system to see how the car is sitting, for the purpose of keeping the low beam lights correctly positioned in the vertical range of movement.

There is a "basic settings" or "adaptation" script (I'm not sure which) that is invoked when you align the headlights. I carried this work out using the VAS 5052 diagnostic scan tool at my VW dealer, and using the Hella Beamsetter (headlight alignment tool) at my VW dealer. I used the "guided functions" capability of the VAS 5052 to put the headlights into the alignment mode - this whole process is well explained in the VW service manual documentation and in the guided functions portion of the VAS 5052.

Once the alignment is complete - and the alignment itself is accomplished manually, using adjustment screws on the headlights - the two low beam controllers are then set back to normal operations mode. The whole low beam alignment process is identical to what is done with Phaetons that have only single xenon headlights. Alignment of the high beams (xenon or halogen, doesn't matter) is strictly a manual process, like it would be on any 1960s car with four headlights.

You can probably invoke the alignment setting using a VAG-COM, but I didn't bother even looking into how to do that, because although I have a VAG-COM, I don't have a Hella Beamsetter... :) so, I had to go to the dealership to use the Beamsetter, and it was much easier for me to just use the VAS 5052, complete with guided functions.

Michael
 
#51 ·
Hi Stu:

If you put the headlight washer nozzles in the service position by using the appropriate command available from the Front Display Screen, the nozzle doors will be about 85% of the way open (they will be 'fully open' in the sense that that is as far as they ever open during normal operations).

You can then take hold of the nozzle door and move it forward about another 1 cm (3/8 of an inch) and it will mechanically 'latch' in the fully open position. It rides over a small cam when it does this.

But... if there is any degradation in the mechanism that normally drives the door to the fully closed position when the nozzle is extended, then it probably won't lock in the fully extended position.

In the photo below, the red arrow points at a U-shaped assembly that provides the spring force needed to return the door to the closed position, or, if you pull the door fully open, the force that is needed to hold it in the fully open position. Click on the image to enlarge it.

Michael

Technology Automotive exterior Auto part Machine Vehicle
 
#54 ·
Michael,

Reading over your wonderfull extensive thread including photo's and based on my job to renew my both dead controllers due to use of bad quality 8000k xenons, i just have a question. As i destroyed both my controllers using these 8000k xenons I had to renew both lower beam ballasts/controllers.

The lower beam controllers in my 2007 V6 TDI dual Xenon however were located on the side (behind the adjustment extension), not on extended back part as we should expect and as showed on the first picture. Perhaps there is a difference between ROW and NAR?

3D0907391 seems the right version for lower beam , 4 pins or 12 pins version (depending year of built). These controllers are very sensitive for non OEM Xenons, and very expensive.


Wouter
 
#55 ·
Hello Wouter:

Dual xenon headlamps were never offered in NAR. I purchased the ones I installed in my car in Europe, prior to 2007.

It is possible that the headlamp assembly went through a change of design between 2003-2006 and 2007. The headlamps I purchased likely came from a MY 2003, 04, or 05 car.

Michael
 
#56 ·
I wanna change my low beam xenon bulbs with Osram d1s 66144CBI Cool blue intense Xenarc 5000k... i wanna know if they will work whith my low beam controler because the oem osram instaled are 4150k ... or will give me some problem... i must change the low beam bulbs because they are :eek: flickering :eek:?

Regards!
 
#59 ·
D1S 6000k is a real nice white color, which really suits the Pheaton in appearance. Standard OEM xenons are color 4300k (a boring yellow) color) or 5000k, and these OEM's seems well adapted to the Phaetons lowbeam ballast/controller 3D0909157/158. Other xenons might damage the ballast and the aint cheap, 500 Euro each.. And i know :-(. These ballast seems very sensitive for cheap Chinese xenons, so be prepared. Dont use 30 euro xenons.

Wouter
 
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