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    Thread: Retrofitting Dual Xenon Headlamps [TOC, Photos done]

    1. Senior Member PanEuropean's Avatar
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      07-01-2011 08:59 PM #51
      Hi Stu:

      If you put the headlight washer nozzles in the service position by using the appropriate command available from the Front Display Screen, the nozzle doors will be about 85% of the way open (they will be 'fully open' in the sense that that is as far as they ever open during normal operations).

      You can then take hold of the nozzle door and move it forward about another 1 cm (3/8 of an inch) and it will mechanically 'latch' in the fully open position. It rides over a small cam when it does this.

      But... if there is any degradation in the mechanism that normally drives the door to the fully closed position when the nozzle is extended, then it probably won't lock in the fully extended position.

      In the photo below, the red arrow points at a U-shaped assembly that provides the spring force needed to return the door to the closed position, or, if you pull the door fully open, the force that is needed to hold it in the fully open position. Click on the image to enlarge it.

      Michael

      Headlight Washer Door.jpg

    2. Senior Member PanEuropean's Avatar
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      10-19-2011 08:44 PM #52
      Archival Note:

      Another post describing dual xenon retrofit, but with greater detail about the construction of the headlight assemblies: My Dual Xenon Adventure.

      Michael

    3. Senior Member PanEuropean's Avatar
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      04-10-2012 04:24 PM #53
      Photos re-hosted.

      Michael

    4. Member wouterjansen60's Avatar
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      04-17-2012 12:30 AM #54
      Michael,

      Reading over your wonderfull extensive thread including photo's and based on my job to renew my both dead controllers due to use of bad quality 8000k xenons, i just have a question. As i destroyed both my controllers using these 8000k xenons I had to renew both lower beam ballasts/controllers.

      The lower beam controllers in my 2007 V6 TDI dual Xenon however were located on the side (behind the adjustment extension), not on extended back part as we should expect and as showed on the first picture. Perhaps there is a difference between ROW and NAR?

      3D0907391 seems the right version for lower beam , 4 pins or 12 pins version (depending year of built). These controllers are very sensitive for non OEM Xenons, and very expensive.


      Wouter

    5. Senior Member PanEuropean's Avatar
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      04-17-2012 06:18 AM #55
      Hello Wouter:

      Dual xenon headlamps were never offered in NAR. I purchased the ones I installed in my car in Europe, prior to 2007.

      It is possible that the headlamp assembly went through a change of design between 2003-2006 and 2007. The headlamps I purchased likely came from a MY 2003, 04, or 05 car.

      Michael

    6. 05-05-2012 04:28 PM #56
      I wanna change my low beam xenon bulbs with Osram d1s 66144CBI Cool blue intense Xenarc 5000k... i wanna know if they will work whith my low beam controler because the oem osram instaled are 4150k ... or will give me some problem... i must change the low beam bulbs because they are flickering ?

      Regards!

    7. Member tynee's Avatar
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      05-05-2012 04:36 PM #57
      I hope they work, because i have a set of four to install with the quad projector retrofit!
      Cheers,
      Andrew

    8. 05-05-2012 04:59 PM #58
      I don't know what to buy ...i must change the low beam bulbs because are flickering.

      1- the oem osram 4150k
      2- osram 5000k 66144CBI Cool blue intense
      3- philips 6000k 002208WX
      4 -philips 6000k Ultra Blue 85410

      all bulbs are D1S model, any suggestion .

      Thanks!

    9. Member wouterjansen60's Avatar
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      05-05-2012 10:45 PM #59
      D1S 6000k is a real nice white color, which really suits the Pheaton in appearance. Standard OEM xenons are color 4300k (a boring yellow) color) or 5000k, and these OEM's seems well adapted to the Phaetons lowbeam ballast/controller 3D0909157/158. Other xenons might damage the ballast and the aint cheap, 500 Euro each.. And i know :-(. These ballast seems very sensitive for cheap Chinese xenons, so be prepared. Dont use 30 euro xenons.

      Wouter

    10. 05-06-2012 02:49 AM #60
      For 6000k i found Philips 002208 WX aka "Ultinon", or Philips Ultra blue 85410UB.... the philips 002208WX ultinon are not road legal "not for use in EUROPE/USA." but who cares

    11. 05-06-2012 02:51 AM #61
      Quote Originally Posted by ADRIAN0 View Post
      For 6000k i found Philips 002208 WX aka "Ultinon", or Philips Ultra blue 85410UB.... the philips 002208WX ultinon are not road legal "not for use in EUROPE/USA." but who cares
      Btw the both models have same price about 220 euro for 2 bulb's.

    12. Senior Member PanEuropean's Avatar
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      10-19-2012 08:05 PM #62
      Archival Note: See also this very interesting illustrated description of the same project by another forum member - My Dual Xenon Adventure.

      Michael

    13. Member tynee's Avatar
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      12-02-2013 11:17 AM #63
      This last week I successfully installed both dual-HID projector headlamps, and used the Osram Cool Blue Intense lamps. Well, I didn't get one unit lined up correctly, so the dealer had to adjust the mounting nuts while doing the headlight alignment, but all is working now. Thanks everyone for all the info and photos, it really helped. Especially the part about swapping the beam cutouts, that must have been a bear doing it for the first time.

      I wonder how many USA Phaetons have the quad-HID setup now?
      Cheers,
      Andrew

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      03-16-2014 07:01 PM #64
      Finally had to remove the front bumper cover on my P for the first time during my timing belt replacement project. Thanks to Michael's detailed instructions it was a piece of cake.

      I did take a few photos during that project and to make it even easier for everyone using these instructions in the future, I want to add a few comments.

      Here's an overview of all the fasteners used on the front bumper cover including fastener type/size:



      Those friction fit fasteners located on the bottom center of the bumper cover look like they would be Phillips head screws but they are not. Below is a picture showing how those look like, that should make it easier to understand how it works:



      I found that the easiest way to remove those was with a tool that's similar to a screwdriver with a curved and split tip:





      Finally I have a question for Michael. I didn't quite understand the purpose of locking the headlight washer covers in the open position. Was that specific to the headlight replacement project? It seemed like those covers don't interfere with the bumper cover removal and installation even in the closed position.
      Stephan

    15. Senior Member PanEuropean's Avatar
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      04-03-2014 04:55 PM #65
      Quote Originally Posted by Phaetonlvr View Post
      ...I didn't quite understand the purpose of locking the headlight washer covers in the open position. Was that specific to the headlight replacement project? It seemed like those covers don't interfere with the bumper cover removal and installation even in the closed position.
      Hi Stephen:

      First of all, thanks very much for posting the pictures of the fasteners and the tips about fastener removal, that is really useful information.

      It's been many years since I took the front bumper cover off my car, thus I can't recall exactly why the little doors over the headlight washers need to be pulled open prior to bumper cover removal. I'm going to speculate that it might be necessary in order to disengage the washer door opening mechanism from the washer jets themselves. In other words, when the washer jets extend upwards to operate, they push against a cam on the little doors, opening the doors. It might be that if the bumper cover is removed and/or replaced with the doors closed, this cam mechanism might foul on the jets.

      But... that's just educated speculation, it's not a fact.

      Michael

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