Thanks man! I may have to take a ride up your way and check out that yard!
For inquiring minds:
My Fox digi turbo fuel/spark management plans:
Goal: 5 to 7 lbs of boost
93 octane with a gal or so of e85
VAM 8” down stream from the turbo inlet to minimize pressure spikes and sudden movements of the flapper door.
MSD 6 BTM box to retard the timing under boost
Extra injector setup: cis-e cold start injector in factory placement t’ed off the fuel line and activated by an adjustable pressure switch.
I have a A/F gauge installed…
Just by watching when the engine begins to lean out, I will be able to set an appropriate psi to activate the 5th injector. Between this and tweaks of the VAM spring tension and 6 BTM settings, I am confident I will have a streetable car that meets my goal.
Your engine is looking very good!! Like your garage too
Hopefully your set up will provide enough fueling, but I have a feeling that it may not. I've had my cold start injector working via a push-button for a while and back when my fox was on the road and beginning to lean out on the top end at full boost, I would press the button to see if that would provide the additional fuel I needed, and it did not make much of a difference at all - it added a little bit more fuel but the car would still ask for a lot more. And that is working with CIS-E fuel pressure, digi would likely make it spray quite a bit less.
Try the setup out and see if it works at the boost level you are gonna work with, but if not, your best bet could be to run an additional injector and controller instead, if you want to keep the digi the way it is.
Looking forward to seeing it happen!
plus, even distribution would be in question.
perhaps you could work with a rrfpr.
I had an idea I posted here, http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...1#post68205644
but what I didn't realize was that the flapper ends up all the way open in stock usage. But if you came up with an alternative way of providing the ecu afm readings, it could work.
I really suck at smog.
Alaincopter, ziddey Thanks a lot for the comments.. you both have very valid points. I was leaning tords the cold start injector as it is ether on or off, it does not pulse like a typical injector. For that reason I can use a simple pressure switch to control the fuel flow rather than purchasing a supplemental injector controller. I guess the only thing I can do is give it a shot and see how it works. If it turns out that not enough fuel is being provided, I think the next course of action would be to drill holes in the intake manifold runners and run 4 cold start injectors (this would also take care of the distribution issues). Then I am sure I could install a inline restrictor on the fuel line in order to provide less fuel if needed. I like the FMU idea as well, that in addition to the higher flowing injectors and a cold start may be the trick. Not to many people are on this path (digi II turbo, and for good reason i understand that) so I think it may be a little trial and error but I am confident I will figure it out.
Old motor is out. New one is comming along. I started cutting out all the rust I could find in the engine compartment as well as preparing to weld up all the un needed holes, and cut off misc. brackets and bolts I didn't need. I then had the crazy idea of making a tubular front end that I could detach... would make maintenance and future engine swaps much more enjoyable. So I fired up the cutoff wheel and hacked away. Ya I know im nuts.
I didn’t want to remove the rain tray as I wanted to hide the blower motor, resistor, wiper motor, some wiring, etc… but I needed some room for “stuff” so I decided to just remove part of the rain tray and close the other end up. I think it will look neat, and serve a purpose. I also finished up welding over all the holes I did not need and removing a few brackets. All of the engine management wiring will be run through the hole the AC lines once resided. All of the headlight, marker light, horn wiring on the left side of the car will be run through the fender well… very few wires aside from the sparkplug wires will be visible when this is all said and done, or that’s the plan any how. I will be moving on to doing a little light filler work, sanding and priming the on to the tube front end I have pictured in my head.
Thank you sir Still making progress, engine bay is about 80% complete. New front frame horns created to accommodate detachable front clip. Just a little more finish work and paint. Once I get a few items back from the machine shop, I will be able to do final assembly of the motor and bolt it up, then comes the new wiring, different radiator location, changed coolant routing, hood modifications, and it wouldn’t be right with out a new coat of paint in yet a different color Ill post up pictures soon.
Finished welding up all the necessary areas, finished a little body work and painted the engine bay (truck bed liner). I still need to add a few additional braces, but for the most part the removable core support is complete as well. It has a nice tight fit. I actually cut the tops of the existing frame horns off, inserted the tubing, aligned, properly braced, then welded them in… then I welded new tops (out of 1/8” plate) on the existing frame horns. The core support braces against the frame horns as to offer strength in the event of an accident. It will be locked in place by 2 pins, one on each side. A little more work to go on this, then off to the wiering
FWIW, a regular injector only pulses because the ECU tells it to. Put it on a pressure switch, and it'll be full bore, steady spray, just like a cold-start injector...except with more fuel .
You're welcome. Technically doing so would mean the injector is constantly running at 100% duty cycle, which they don't usually enjoy for long periods of time, but I don't think that's a problem in this situation. It would go on in boost, and shut off out of boost, staying cool and happy.
Rad. and fan came in along with a few other odds and ends. Starded to get the body panels ready for paint. Ill paint all of the panels off the car, paint the unibody then reassemble. Cut most of the rust out of the unibody, a little more to go then time to fire up the welder. Motor is finished. Slow but sure, its getting there.
Inded, I wanted the benefit of a little more air flowing through the engine compartment. I just cut along the factory body line, I need to put some steel on the rollers to get the appropriate curve and weld those in to complete the hood. Should look stock-ish, just a tad more aggressive. I have saw a couple muscle cars that have mounted tachometers and misc gauges under the cowl scoop (not visible on the outside of the car, but in great view looking out the windshield) always thought it looked cool. I think ill mount 3 leds under there that coincide with various boost pressures…I.E green led lights at 2psi yellow at 4psi red at 6 psi
Slow week at work so I had the opportunity to get a few things on the fox finished. I made a lower radiator bracket and welded it up to the car, fitted the rad then welded up the upper bracket. I had an old fuel talk off a chainsaw and decided to use it for the overflow tank… welded that up as well. Everything fits (headlights and side markers, it is tight but it fits. I also got all the wiring completed and back in the car. Aside from the sparkplug wires, all the wires the engine is going to need to run are in the picture… highly condensed from the original harness. The headlight/turns/markers harness is running through the frame rail and will have once disconnect wetherpack connector, making removing the front end easier.
Ebay, $80 with the fan and all hardware shipped to my door Make sure you look at the descriptions, there are 3 different core sizes available in both double and single row. This one is a double row of the largest size... forget the size at the moment but when you get to looking you will see what I mean. It is both taller and wider than the fox unit.
Fenders and rad suport in primer:
Last edited by oRANGEJULIUS; 01-20-2011 at 11:57 AM.
Been at kind of a standstill for a little while. My flywheel has been at the machine shop for a some time so its preventing me from getting the motor in the car. It should be done soon (resurface and slightly lightened + balanced) Once that comes in the motor will be going in, electrical connections plugged in, intake mani fuel rail injectors, etc installed. Then I need to build an intake tube, install the fan controller, plumb the coolant, time the engine and It should be moving under its own power.
I want to get it moving first so I am able to easily move the car in and out of the shop; want to get the bass boat and bike out and I would much rather do the bulk of the sanding on the shell outside. Still a fair amount of body work to go, and then paint.
I plan on running the engine NA for a few thousand miles to properly break it in. This also gives me time to gather the other components I need to go FI. So far I have the turbo, wastegate, manifold, intercooler, misc charge piping. I still need a boost controller, BOV couplers, clamps, fuel injectors, timing box, pressure switch, FPR, etc…
Motor is in
Issues so far:
Exhaust manifold will not reach head studs. The exhaust is rigid (no flex pipe) and is connected to the underside of the car by 4 1/8” thick brackets (this was due to the height of the car; I kept slapping the exhaust off the road and debris, I wanted to insure it would stay on the car) I will cut the down pipe section near the motor and lengthen it to accommodate the new motor.
Radiator location: I will have to adjust the rad mounting bracket a hair, as currently the rad is touching the water pump pulley just by a hair.
Rad hose locations: The bottom rad outlet in relationship to the water pump outlet is very tricky.. they are less then 3” apart in distance (vertical), but they are about 4” beside one another (horizontal). I may have to source a different outlet for the water pump (one off a transverse car) or come up with something else creative.
I want to get these issues solved and move on to assembling the rest of the motor… making progress.