Those new rims look absolutely amazing.
Unfortunately, no real updates. I have the snow tires / wheels mounted up in anticipation of the bad weather. I have also installed a different front air dam (smaller, looks much more fitting). That’s it. I do not have much free time any more. It’s sad to say, but the fox sits in the garage more than it’s driven as of late. The last real fun I have had with it was a show I attended in late October with both my fox and Passat:
Once I have a little more free time, I plan on picking up a rust free fox to begin work on. From experimenting with this Fox, I have just about all my ideas, techniques worked out.
Long time no update! Back with yet another new paint job, new interior, and beginning work on a new engine. OBDI ABA block hydro cis-e head, 286 cam, adjustable cam gear, fresh seals, new accessories. I am just about finished building the motor, now all I have to do is pull the old one, tuck a few wires, clean up the bay, paint, then drop the new motor in. I will be running NA at first (but fully plumbed for turbo oil/coolant). Once I get board with the gains I will be installing the k24 turbo charger, 1.8t intercooler, external wastegate, trying to run it all on digi
For inquiring minds:
My Fox digi turbo fuel/spark management plans:
Goal: 5 to 7 lbs of boost
93 octane with a gal or so of e85
VAM 8” down stream from the turbo inlet to minimize pressure spikes and sudden movements of the flapper door.
MSD 6 BTM box to retard the timing under boost
Extra injector setup: cis-e cold start injector in factory placement t’ed off the fuel line and activated by an adjustable pressure switch.
I have a A/F gauge installed…
Just by watching when the engine begins to lean out, I will be able to set an appropriate psi to activate the 5th injector. Between this and tweaks of the VAM spring tension and 6 BTM settings, I am confident I will have a streetable car that meets my goal.
Your engine is looking very good!! Like your garage too
Hopefully your set up will provide enough fueling, but I have a feeling that it may not. I've had my cold start injector working via a push-button for a while and back when my fox was on the road and beginning to lean out on the top end at full boost, I would press the button to see if that would provide the additional fuel I needed, and it did not make much of a difference at all - it added a little bit more fuel but the car would still ask for a lot more. And that is working with CIS-E fuel pressure, digi would likely make it spray quite a bit less.
Try the setup out and see if it works at the boost level you are gonna work with, but if not, your best bet could be to run an additional injector and controller instead, if you want to keep the digi the way it is.
Looking forward to seeing it happen!
plus, even distribution would be in question.
perhaps you could work with a rrfpr.
I had an idea I posted here, http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...1#post68205644
but what I didn't realize was that the flapper ends up all the way open in stock usage. But if you came up with an alternative way of providing the ecu afm readings, it could work.
I really suck at smog.
Alaincopter, ziddey Thanks a lot for the comments.. you both have very valid points. I was leaning tords the cold start injector as it is ether on or off, it does not pulse like a typical injector. For that reason I can use a simple pressure switch to control the fuel flow rather than purchasing a supplemental injector controller. I guess the only thing I can do is give it a shot and see how it works. If it turns out that not enough fuel is being provided, I think the next course of action would be to drill holes in the intake manifold runners and run 4 cold start injectors (this would also take care of the distribution issues). Then I am sure I could install a inline restrictor on the fuel line in order to provide less fuel if needed. I like the FMU idea as well, that in addition to the higher flowing injectors and a cold start may be the trick. Not to many people are on this path (digi II turbo, and for good reason i understand that) so I think it may be a little trial and error but I am confident I will figure it out.
Old motor is out. New one is comming along. I started cutting out all the rust I could find in the engine compartment as well as preparing to weld up all the un needed holes, and cut off misc. brackets and bolts I didn't need. I then had the crazy idea of making a tubular front end that I could detach... would make maintenance and future engine swaps much more enjoyable. So I fired up the cutoff wheel and hacked away. Ya I know im nuts.
I didn’t want to remove the rain tray as I wanted to hide the blower motor, resistor, wiper motor, some wiring, etc… but I needed some room for “stuff” so I decided to just remove part of the rain tray and close the other end up. I think it will look neat, and serve a purpose. I also finished up welding over all the holes I did not need and removing a few brackets. All of the engine management wiring will be run through the hole the AC lines once resided. All of the headlight, marker light, horn wiring on the left side of the car will be run through the fender well… very few wires aside from the sparkplug wires will be visible when this is all said and done, or that’s the plan any how. I will be moving on to doing a little light filler work, sanding and priming the on to the tube front end I have pictured in my head.
Thank you sir Still making progress, engine bay is about 80% complete. New front frame horns created to accommodate detachable front clip. Just a little more finish work and paint. Once I get a few items back from the machine shop, I will be able to do final assembly of the motor and bolt it up, then comes the new wiring, different radiator location, changed coolant routing, hood modifications, and it wouldn’t be right with out a new coat of paint in yet a different color Ill post up pictures soon.
Finished welding up all the necessary areas, finished a little body work and painted the engine bay (truck bed liner). I still need to add a few additional braces, but for the most part the removable core support is complete as well. It has a nice tight fit. I actually cut the tops of the existing frame horns off, inserted the tubing, aligned, properly braced, then welded them in… then I welded new tops (out of 1/8” plate) on the existing frame horns. The core support braces against the frame horns as to offer strength in the event of an accident. It will be locked in place by 2 pins, one on each side. A little more work to go on this, then off to the wiering
You're welcome. Technically doing so would mean the injector is constantly running at 100% duty cycle, which they don't usually enjoy for long periods of time, but I don't think that's a problem in this situation. It would go on in boost, and shut off out of boost, staying cool and happy.
1984 Volvo 244 DL...with carb.